Last of the V8 Interceptors.. my XB Falcon Coupe
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Out in the shed tonight I realised that I've been dumber than usual, I now have 4 full blown projects on the go at once. Now right off the bat we can probably discount the Bumblebee Camaro getting any work done this year. But I now have a solid deadline for each of the other 3 cars in the shed. I really want to do the Adelaide Rally again this November, this time in the GT-Four & in Match next year there is a huge Ford Falcon XA/XB/XC Coupe event happening down in Tasmania... I have already booked & paid for the ferry trip down & the accommodation so now the XB must be finished & fully run in this year. There is also a huge Mopar event in March too that I always wanted to go to so now I really need to have the challenger finished off & run in by the end of the year too.
I'm still not 100% sure that the standard bonnet will close fully with an air filter on the cab on the high rise intake manifold... given this it's pretty important to get the bonnet on the car I guess so I can see if it does & if it doesn't then I still have time to work out a solution... so time to fit the fancy billet hinges I got for her.
Whilst the passenger side bolts up nicely the drivers side fouls on the brake hardlines now that the new brake booster has altered the height of the master a bit, but brake hardlines are easy enough to bend so it's not a big issue.
I also need to find the gas struts for these hinges, I know that I put them away in a safe secure spot a while ago to... well you know to keep them safe, but they are in such a safe space that right now I have no fecking idea where they are.... so I guess means I have to go through every bloody box in the shed again till I find them
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I went out to the shed this weekend with one job in mind, I've been putting the wiring job off for weeks & today was the day... no more messing about lets get this done
First step was getting the oil breather can out of it's box & working out what AN fittings are best for it given where I want to try & mount it in the engine bay
I had taken a guess at the right bend style of AN connector that I'd need out of the top of the rocker covers & it looks like I got that right thankfully as these puppies are not cheap
For location of the can, I'm thinking here just below the bonnet hinge is the best spot where it won't be in the way & can be easily accessed if needed
I've just made up a temp bracket for now so I can work out how much of the braided line I'll need to make up the plumbing for this. Not sure what I want to make the bracket out of just yet, who knows it may end up just being as simple as this but painted or polished up, you can't really see it anyway.
I think that that looks good there, just need to run some of the lines & wires out of the firewall first before I can fully commit to the final bracket shape to be sure to be sure it doesn't foul on anything
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Then I turned my attention to installing the aftermarket collapsible steering column... this was sold as a "bolt" in so of course there will be several hours of fuckery involved here to make it work.
The steering rack that I installed came with a pre-assembled U-joint setup, I'm not 100% if this is the perfect length or if I need to trim the bar a little but lets find out
The column came with a firewall mounting bracket but that doesn't even come close to fitting the holes for the OEM bracket that's on the original column... so yep, bolt in kit for the win. I figured it would actually be easier to modify the original bracket that to try & rework this one
The kit didn't even come with a top mount bracket at all, again bolt in kit my arse.... so I managed to find one that would work with this
I'll need to trim a little here & there & do some welding on the firewall bracket but it looks like this is going to work just fine in the end
Now the more eagle eyed of you will have noticed that there is no padding on my steering wheel, well that's because the steering wheel I've always wanted to run in this car is made from 100% pure unobtainium... the wheel I want is an old 70's wheel called a Maxx Rob wheel, it's the wheel that was fitted to the Mad Max Interceptor in the movies. The last real one I saw sell went for more that I paid for this car when I bought it... & that wheel needed to be restored.. madness. Anyway a mate of mine made a run of reproduction allow wheels that are identical, now I just need to get that trimmed up & it'll be perfect.
What's next on the list of jobs to continue ignoring the wiring installation I hear you ask, well I removed the exhaust headers a while back as they foul on the transmission & I need to borrow a mates oxy set so I can heat them up & use some gentle percussive persuasion to reshape them. The steering rack has to be dropped to allow the installation/removal of the drivers side header, so before I finalise the brackets for this steering column install I need to rework the headers & install them for the final time.14 -
I've being dying with a flu & a chest infection for the last month so it's been a way too long since I've been out in the shed, the fact that this is one of coldest winters we've had here in a while isn't helping either.
Had a mate come over so decided to do the big two person job of fitting the bonnet...
The fancy new billet hinges don't adjust down low enough, this is as low as they go & the bonnet is still sitting a little too proud, so some modifications will be needed to get the bonnet down fully at the rear
The fit between the air filter & the bonnet is pretty tight, but there is some gap... this is a 3" filter element so I will go with a 2" & then that should be fine
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My new 14"x2" dropbase filter rocked up so I've chucked that on & now I'm thinking of getting a 2.5" one as this gap is now huge & I want as much airflow for the carb as I can get.
I spent a few hours in the cold shed today sorting some stuff out & only thought I was going to die coughing up a lung once, so I'm calling myself fit again & I'll try & put in a proper day tomorrow now to move at least one project forward.
I had misplaced or expertly filed away depending on you're point of view the old inner door trims that I need to send off to have new ones remade. I've now found these, no one remakes the shaped metal strip at the top so you need an old set if you want a new set made up. My plan now is to drop these off midweek to get that ball rolling as I'm sure they'll tell me that there is a 27 week wait as there seems to be with everything these days.
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No I've broken the back of the work needed to be done on the GT-Four, I need to get back into working on this car & ordering any bits that I still need to finish it. The aftermarket steering column came with the wrong adapter for the style of wheel that I want to run, I need to see if I can find a chrome adapter that suits my wheel style or maybe I just clean up the old original black adapter that I had?
No I've broken the back of the work needed to be done on the GT-Four & the XE I need to get back into working on this car & ordering any bits that I still need to finish it. The aftermarket steering column came with the wrong adapter for the style of wheel that I want to run, I need to see if I can find a chrome adapter that suits my wheel style or maybe I just clean up the old original black adapter that I had?
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Whilst looking at where to put tow points on the Challenger I figured I'd look at how easy/hard this would be on the XB too.... this is where I think the rear will go
The front I think will both work well here & look pretty good
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Right, time to pull my finger out stop working on the XE & get some stuff done on this. I was doing a bit of a shed re-org & tidy up & I realised that these bonnet vents where at risk of being dropped or scratched as they where moved about so as I'd also found the special little clasps that lock the mountings pins to the bonnet I opted to just install them.
Unlike the vents on both the Challenger & the GTO these bonnet vents are actually functional & allow air to be rammed into the engine bay.
I need to clean up the window winders & re-grease the mechanisms... oh & also remember how they go back in. I have new rollers to be installed too. I want to get these in soon along with the glass as I know that that weight will sag the doors on the hinges & then I'll have to take the front guards off again to re-set the doors & then I'll get my painter back around so we can do a final panel gap fit of all of the front bolt on panels.
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Now to finally start the job I've been putting off for so long... the wiring. First step is working out where to install the ICE digital ignition box, in the GTO I just installed the box on the inner fender in the engine bay but I don't want this one in the engine bay.
I've looked at some options & one I saw someone else do that I really liked was installing the box here on this dashboard bracket, this would mean it's hidden out of the way but still has airflow around it & it's easily accessed as it's just above the glove box insert & so if I need to get to it I only have to remove 2 screws & pull the glovebox out.
Now I've unpacked the box with all the wiring looms in it again I'm going to just focus on the bits that are obvious & then as I eliminate them it should be easier to work out what goes where. Using that logic this is clearly the rear light loom so lets put that aside for now.
This is the main loom that has all the fuses & in my case retro installed relays that will live in the drivers side footwell & also has the engine bay loom attached.
Pulled the engine bay loom through the large hole in the firewall & sort of laid it out where I think it will run, I'm not going to try & hide the wiring inside body work like a show car but I don't want it to look like a rats nest either
Where things are dog ball level obvious I'll start with for connecting the wiring up... like this is the wiper motor
These are the front lights
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I have a Davies Craig dual fan controller to... well to control the fans, the clue was in the name there really. I'll need to find somewhere neat to install this & to also install the relay for the headlights
I think I need to mount up the transmission cooler up front now before I decided where to mount these bits of wiring as I don't want to have to undo or redo anything. I'll have to look at installing the heater matrix into the car too so that I can then run the dash wiring loom as from memory this loom goes onto of it in some places.
I want to get the rear window in soon too, so first the roof liner has to go in... but before that I need to install the 3 x roof interior lights & I'm unsure which wires do that right now, but hopefully that's not to hard to work out.
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It was over 33C today so that made it tough work in the shed... the plan was to do some simple jobs, that failed. I couldn't remember if the heater-A/C matrix could be installed with the dash in place, it was a 50-50 based on the answers I got when I asked online
This thing is bulky, awkward & heavier than it looks... also it won't go in with the dash in place, so I ended up having to unbolt half of the dash so I could move it enough to get it to fit in
This was a real struggle to get installed, you have to be in the car crouched down & you can't see any of the holes that the five large pipe ends needs to slot through
In the end I needed to accept defeat & get Mrs_XB out to help & then between the two of us sweating & developing new & exciting ways to use curse words we finally got the stupid thing bolted in.
With that installed then I needed to re-bolt the dash back in
With that done I think I can install the dash wiring loom & start to put all the gauges & switches etc back in the dash
After a good deal of research I've found what most people tell me is the best grease option for the window winders so I'll spend a bit of time cleaning off the old grease & applying this new stuff to them before installing them in the doors
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Trying to figure out a little bit more of the wiring, decided to put the interior curtesy light in. I'm pretty sure that these wires are the ones I need. Pretty sure also that the one with the push switch is for the glovebox light, so it must be the other two I need.
I have two new rear C pillar lights to go in, the centre front light is just two blades that a bulb slides into.. sadly the little screw that holds the wire in is missing but hopefully I can find something that works.
Wired in the two rear lights & all I have to work out now is the correct routing of the wiring once I've connected the front & rear looms together as they need to feed down to the main loom somewhere.
Need to workout which shifter I want to run in this car, I really want to run the B&M Ratchet shifter on the left here, the other option is the B&M Mega shifter that I got from the guy I bought the gearbox from.
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Now this car had a B&M shifter in it when I bought it so there is a bracket in the car already that will accept either shifter
Now one thing car never had in it when I bought it was a centre console & I have a new repo unit I'd love to install, I'll need to test fit it with the late model Mustang seats as I've no idea if it will fit of now with those seats.
Assuming the console does fit, then the big question will be how hard is it to mount these shifters into it, the Mega shifter looks like it will easily fit inside & shouldn't be too much of a ballache, the only thing I think I need to do is to trim this bottom underside shelf a little to allow it to fit.
The Ratchet shifter mind you will take a lot of cutting & moding of the opening of the console to have it fit in nicely, I do have an old cracked console somewhere that I need to dig out so that I can cut that one to see if it will work or not.
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I really should have done this job a month ago & I've no idea why I didn't but it's done now. I needed to pull the metal tops off of the old door trim cards that I had & do so carefully so as not to bend or twist them.
I cleaned all the surface rust off them, straightened some bits that where bent & then painted them black to prevent any future surface rust hopefully.
The complete rubber kit that I'd bought came with brand new window felts, so I can send these off with the tops to be used on my new door cards
You may have noticed in the background of some pics that the Camaro is covered in empty carboard boxes, lots of people Mrs_XB included keep telling me that that is the start of the hoarder slope... but today my logic was vindicated when I had the box that the steering column for the XB came in & that was the perfect size to take these parts as I need to mail them to my mate in Adelaide as the best company in Australia for making door trims for these cars is in South Australia.. they have a long lead time so it'll be touch & go if I get these back by March in time for the big trip in the car, so I may end up using the "good" ones that came out of the XB if I need to before the new ones turn up.
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I got the window winding mechanisms for the doors cleaned up & installed, I have a few spare doors that I haven't taken apart yet so I was able to see exactly where all the bits go
The rear Qtr glass set up was a little harder to sort, lucky I didn't take the frame off the old glass so I was able to assemble it out of the car so I knew what I was doing before ripping all the skin off my knuckles trying to get it all installed in the tiny space there is behind the rear Qtr panel for the window to go
I have all new glass to go in but installing that will be a two person job for sure, don't want to risk scratching brand new glass, I installed the new repro outer door felt strips too, but the clips on these new ones are too small for the factory fitting holes in the doors so I think I'll have to glue them on. I don't know if I can install the glass with these in so I won't glue them home till after I have the glass in
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Right, it's officially time to upgrade the panic level of this build from mild to extra medium... As I may have said earlier there is a huge car event in Tasmania in late March that this car is booked in for, ferries & hotels are booked & Mrs_XB & I have time booked off work so fingers really need to be removed from orifices now & I need to get a move on. I need to have the car finished with enough time to put some break in millage on her to find all the little niggles before we head off. I also have a week in Vegas in early March for work so I need to try & aim for an end of Feb finish if I can.
With this new defcon rating of panic I spent a few days over Christmas out on the shed, I got a bit done but more importantly I worked out how I think I'm going to achieve some of the more modified bits of the build that can't really just use off the shelf parts. I'm also changing directions on some bits as I just don't think I'll have time to do them, so they'll be added to the future Dave's jobs list & maybe I'll look into them come next winter. A list of bits still needed has been made & orders will be placed when places open back up on the 6th.
The guy who painted the car is happy to come around just after new years to do a full final panel alignment for gaps etc of the front hanging panels, to do this the doors must have the full weight in them as hinges do sag slightly so installing the new glass was the first step.. I had a mate over & I'm really glad I did as this could never have been done as a one person job.
First step was to ensure that the new glass is actually the same shape as the old glass, seems silly to say but sadly a lot of repo stuff is now just close but not perfect & close only counts in horseshoes & hand grenades.. I'm happy to say that the new glass that I ordered in the original optional green tint is perfect, much better than my old badly scratched glass with the crappy peeling tint that was always too dark.
There are 5 holes in the glass, the first & last holes hold the stopper that limits the height the window can be raised too & the middle 3 are the bolts that connect the glass to the winder mechanism in the car door.
Getting this door glass in was actually pretty easy really with a second person holding the top of the glass & taking it's weight & then wiggling the glass left & right or up & down as needed for me to get the nuts & bolts in... as the only access to do this was through the tiny openings in the door frame I did manage to almost fully peel all of the skin off my knuckles & wrists as I fought to get the right angle to be able to get a spanner or socket into the right place with enough room to actually turn it.
Completing this means that the hinges have a few days to "settle" with the weight so when Rob is here in the new year to adjust everything they should be right to go.
The rear on the other had where a complete pig of a job as the three guide wheels needed to be installed both on the glass & the edge of the guide rail at the same time... like a lot of things in this world the knowledge only comes after the experience... the drivers side took 30 mins to install with the invention of several new colourful words that would see a youtube video demonetised & one blood transfusion, but it only took 5 mins to install the passenger side after we'd figured out what way you had to hold the sacrificial chicken during the install.
There is a chrome & rubber divider that I need to polish up & install on the leading edge of that rear glass & the front glass leans to far in but that's because you need the felt runner on the top of the door trim to push the glass out properly. I've moved the job of installing the head liner up the list too as when that goes in then the front & rear glass can go in... just need to do some research to see in installing a headliner is a job I think I can do myself or if I try & find someone who knows what they are doing to do that.
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The transmission was just in the car as a trial fitment, that's how I knew that I'd need to do some percussive maintenance on the huge 3.5" round headers to get everything to fit. I hadn't installed the flex plate or bolted up the Torque converter or installed the starter so the trans come out so that it could be installed for the last time for the first time
Sandwedge plate & flex plate installed & torqued in with locktight using shiny new ARP bolts naturally
The new mini high torque starter has what they call the Infi-Clock design so you can alter where the solenoid sits in relation to the engine block & headers, we decided to do all the math on that & & alter the angle many many times with the box out so that we wouldn't have to remove the starter after it was installed.... the object of the game now is that everything is getting installed for the last time, something else I opted to do & I so glad I did is I ran a tap through every bolt hole to ensure they where spotless & that all bolts could be easily done up finger tight with not tools needed... highly recommend this step
Sorry for the piss poor lighting in this pic but it was nearly midnight... the trans was in & the starter correctly clocked & mounted
The torque converter nuts are now locktighted on & the transmission & engine crankshaft are now one unit... win
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The headers foul on the side of the transmission when installed so I knew I needed to gently reshape them, so fired up the A-Team theme tune in my head as using an Oxy torch always reminds me of that show & how they had been locked in a shed with endless parts to make an awesome escape vehicle... sorry gone off on a tangent there...
I'd marked out the spot that needed to be reshaped so then it was simply a matter of using the Oxy to heat the metal up & a hammer to flatten off the side of the header around the collector as that's the widest part
The passenger side one goes on easy enough which is a good thing as it may have to come off again so that I can install the shifter cable & make some other little adjustments to that side of the transmission.
To get the drivers side in the steering rack must be dropped but also the starter must come out as it just fouls the install... so that went back in for the last time for the second time now
A big chunk of time was spent trying to work out how to install the power steering pump & the alternator onto the engine, this after market block & the after market heads don't have the standard threaded holes that an OEM Ford engine have so now of the standard brackets can be used to get them installed. After a long time placing & looking & measuring & googling I'm 90% confident that I have a way forward now, the power steering pump will live here low on the drivers side & I think I can modify the brackets I got with it to make it work.
The Alt I think will install on the passenger side of the block also low mounted if I order the mirror version of this bracket
So the arm will swing to the right like this & not to the left as above
Whilst some of this felt like a bit of a waste of time as nothing was actually getting installed on the car, this is good progress as I know what I need to order & I have clear picture in my head of how it gets done. I've also worked out the routing for the fuel lines & for the battery cables as the battery will be living here in the boot
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I've been putting off the wiring as you no doubt know from the number of times I've said so... with the help of a mate a long time was spent reading through the wiring diagrams in the books I have & we identified & labelled ever wire & every connector as to what it does & where it goes, this took a lot of time but I think that this will pay back in spades when I'm installing the looms
To prove out the concept the rear of the car is now wired, that looped wire on top of the fuel tank is the wiring for the fuel pump & the fuel level sender
Also used some yellow tongue to feed the wiring through the car so that the rear loom is now ready to be plugged into the main loom when that gets installed
I've also started routing the wiring out through the engine bay to see if I can make it look at least semi neat
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Now that I'm in an elevated stage of time panic, tough decisions need to be made, one of these was not to use the shiny new tilt steering column I wanted to use, to use it I needed to make custom floor mounts, custom rubber floor gromet & make a custom wiring loom to patch it into the XB loom & as that column doesn't have the ignition key barrel housing built into it, I'd also need to figure out what after market ignition key barrel housing I could use, where to install it & also work out the custom wiring for it... so it's out for now & I'll just modify the stock column to attach to the new steering rack as that is a much smaller task
I have two OEM column's, the one out of this car & a spare so I decided to strip them both down clean up all the parts & then one out of the best bits from both
I have two OEM column's, the one out of this car & a spare so I decided to strip them both down clean up all the parts & then one out of the best bits from both
This is installed now & connected to the steering rack Uni shaft & the angle set to the angle of 42.5 degs as per the instructions & this column now has only two wired connectors that will plug directly in my loom for the stalk controls & the ignition barrel
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I decided to test fit the 2021 Mustang seats that I want to use in the car
These seats are sitting way too high in the car & it looks like I'll have to remove a lot of the seats mounting rails & remake new ones to fit both the seats & the floorpan of the XB. I'd also have to make up custom wiring looms... so like the shiny tilt steering column these are now on the to be installed after we're back from the big trip to Tasmania list as I just can't afford the time to make these work in the car.
I now have two seat options... I can just go with the original seats I have on the shelf, that would only take 10 minutes to install or I can look at using a set of Falcon seats from a 2004-2014 Ford Ute... I have an set here I was given & they fit great, also I'd only need to unbolt the rails off them & bolt my original seats rails to them & it's a done deal.
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One of the next jobs will be to paint the front bumper brackets & polish the bumper out so that when Rob is here & we align the front panels we can install these too
I also need to go through all my dash bits to work out what ones I'll use
This restored dash surround is the one that will go in, but as you can see compared to the old unrestored one below it the gauges are installed on the wrong sides so I may need to pull that apart & swap them over in case the wiring won't reach
I also have a few tacho & speedo gauge pods to choose from
I'd really like the speedo to be read 000000k's when I install it, as lets face it this is a new car... I do have one speedo that already reads zero but it's only a 200kph one so not one of the 240kph ones I want to use, also that zero'd one only has the 6k tacho & not the more desired 7k one.... just need to work out can I easily swap the zero'd counter into one of the others or is it easier to reset one of the others to zero?
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Ok, so another update, I found out that the new headliner I'd ordered was the wrong one... the size of the panels that make it up just didn't look right when compared to the original, sure enough the metal bows are nowhere near lining up. Turns out this one is for a Sedan & not a Coupe so another new & hopefully correct one is needed.
Bugger, hopefully a new one doesn't take to long to arrive as the front & rear windows can't be installed without it being in first.
Gave the bumper a bit of a polish before installing it on the car, got a new polishing flap disk for the grinder & I gotta say this works really well & cuts down on effort or skill needed
Before
After only a few seconds
I didn't take any pics during the final panel alignment but a few hours where spent the other weekend getting that right & then the bumper could go on
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Cleaned up the lower front side light/indicators & fitted new lenses to them as both originals where faded & one was broken
Worked out the final location for the trans cooler & made up the bracket to mount that
There are still a few jobs that will need to be outsourced like the tail shaft & the modification to the fuel tank, so to make sure all the tail shaft measurements where spot on I got the high HP "big" uni that they recommended & test fitted it to be sure I didn't have a silly different size diff yoke... also test fit the billet gearbox yoke they want to use & took all the measurements with these in place
Rumour has it I might have said shaft by Friday this week, but as this coming weekend is the Australia day long weekend I'm not expecting to see it till next week. The new bracket to install the Alt turned up, it needed a bit of clearance to pass the water outlet fitting from the head but it installed easy enough
Of course the new Alt I have didn't quite line up either & the hole here needed to be elongated to make it fit
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The brackets that came with the Power steering pump will work, but they just look so crap... if you couldn't see them I'd use them but I just can't have this in the engine bay
It looks like I might be able to reuse the other Alt bracket that ran the wrong way to mount the power steering pump, it'll need a fair bit of modification to mount the pump in this bracket but I think that this will look pretty good if I can make it work.
I think that I can cut up & reuse the bracket they supplied with the pump to allow me to centrally locate it inside the Bullet bracket
I'll cut off all I don't need & then extend what's left so that it bolts to both the static bolt hole & to the slide adjusting opening.
I wanted to get a new indicator stalk for the car as mine is worn from 50 years of Aussie sun & filthy hands operating it.... it's crazy to think that this car is 50 years old in May... mind blown
But the guy at the GT resto shop where they do change overs wouldn't take mine for a straight change over swap as someone has put a slight kink in the stalk arm at some point in the cars life, usually done to clear a less dished aftermarket steering wheel that's been installed. I do have a 2nd non bent indicator stalk & switch but he didn't like the feel of the cancelling mechanism for that one so wouldn't take that one either... so it's back to the drawing board for this
There have been lost of other small jobs getting done but I'm not capturing them all as I go as I don't want to bore you all too much.
I have the fuel tanked booked in for fabrication work on Wednesday so I'll have to pull that from the car tonight, clearly make all the mods I want before it goes off as it'll be a two to three week turn around on that, I also need to think of who can do the exhaust as that's another item that will be out of my control from a timeline perspective unless I decide to do something stupid like make it myself.
This weekend is a long weekend so I hope to get the power steering pump modified & installed & I'd like run all the fluid lines for the car, so get the fuel lines, filter & regulator all plumbed in, get the trans cooler lines made & installed & get the coolant feed to the rad sorted as big ticket items.
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The drop tank I bought for this car is designed to fit directly into a standard XB running leaf springs as the rear suspension, but as I have the somewhat fancier multi link mumford set up in mine the tank doesn't fit. You may recall a while back had to cut the whole front off the tank just to get it to sit down into place. Well now I want to be able to run the exhaust past the tank & the suspension link arms so I need to cut the tank a bit more, the plan is to cut the two front corners off as you can see marked here with the black lines so that the exhaust has space to run.
I figured it's probably a good time to cut the holes for the in tank fuel pump now as it will be so easy to clean out the tank now rather than when it's back as a sealed unit. The pump has this ring that goes inside the tank & then the unit drops in & it's bolted together.
The fuel pump kit came with this very cool plastic template that is used to ensure that you can't stuff up the location for the main hole or for the mounting holes... this is a god send as now measuring or thinking was needed on my end. I just needed to pick where I wanted the pump outlets to be sitting
Next up will be installing the new fuel sender I got, this required some research to understand what Ohm reading the factory Ford fuel gauge is expecting to see from a fuel sender, in my case that's 73-10 Ohms.. now I couldn't get one in this deep style that had that exact range but this one is a 70-10 Ohms range so I'm hoping that that isn't too far off to be useful. Sadly I didn't have the right size hole saw for the shaft of this sender, so I'll have to go to the tool shop at lunch & get one so I can get this finished this evening as I have to drop it to my mate tonight.
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Got the right sized hole saw & installed the fuel sender unit
I've also installed the in-tank side of the clamping ring for the fuel pump assembly
I've also marked out the size of the section I want them to cut out & lower by about 30mm, as the top of the tank is the actual boot floor in this car I want the fuel hose connections to be sunken into the tank so that objects being carried in the boot can't knock them & cause a leak... cause fuel leak in car is bad for reasons
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