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chainsaw to buy

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    #62
    Reggie.
    Registered Users Posts: 24,428 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    Is there an adjustable oil pump in the saw to slow down the rate as the oil may be used before the petrol?

    Yeah there is on mine anyways


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    #63
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Yeah there is on mine anyways

    How does your saw consume oil to petrol ratio?


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    #64
    sandydan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    Is there an adjustable oil pump in the saw to slow down the rate as the oil may be used before the petrol?

    i asked original dealer, but got no answer to that.so got in contact with another dealer and bar, chain and clutch was suggested as saw chain is jamming and overheating bar,and saw cutting out,so its his suggestion after having one saw that did similar.


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    #65
    I said
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,855 ✭✭✭I said


    pollocks wrote: »
    Looking at the husky 435 on offer at the moment at €325 . Anybody any opinions on it before I hand over some cash tomorrow at the ploughing ??

    Have the 15inch bar suits my needs


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    #66
    Reggie.
    Registered Users Posts: 24,428 ✭✭✭✭Reggie.


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    How does your saw consume oil to petrol ratio?

    Can set it anyway I want with a screw underneath it. I have it set to use a little more oil than petrol


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    #67
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    sandydan wrote: »
    i asked original dealer, but got no answer to that.so got in contact with another dealer and bar, chain and clutch was suggested as saw chain is jamming and overheating bar,and saw cutting out,so its his suggestion after having one saw that did similar.

    There should be no need for a new bar and chain or even clutch, i would suggest you get someone else to look at the saw, is the saw ok for a period of time before it jams up?


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    #68
    sandydan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    There should be no need for a new bar and chain or even clutch, i would suggest you get someone else to look at the saw, is the saw ok for a period of time before it jams up?

    cutting fine but if you lean on saw chain slows and smoke starts to rise under cover at back of bar, chain is inclined to go off bar very easily to the right, its driving me bonkers. but im inclined to get shorter bar anyway,so depending on price of clutch when he gets back to me,rang a few more chain saw dealers around here and not too many want to repair other dealers saws, some ama dealers dont keep parts for them just to order.


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    #69
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    sandydan wrote: »
    cutting fine but if you lean on saw chain slows and smoke starts to rise under cover at back of bar, chain is inclined to go off bar very easily to the right, its driving me bonkers. but im inclined to get shorter bar anyway,so depending on price of clutch when he gets back to me,rang a few more chain saw dealers around here and not too many want to repair other dealers saws, some ama dealers dont keep parts for them just to order.

    Its lack of power that the saw is dying when when you lean on it, a worn sprocket would be no help to you there, not sure if that saw has a seperate socket or part of the clutch drum.
    Chain must be loose if its coming off bar, cant think of any other reason for that unless the drive link are wore which is very unlikely.


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    #70
    pollocks
    Registered Users Posts: 249 ✭✭pollocks


    I said wrote: »
    Have the 15inch bar suits my needs

    How do you find it are you using the saw regularly or just for an hour here and there?
    I had the brother in laws 254xp and she was a whore to start when she got hot!!
    Any problems I need to look out for??


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    #71
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    pollocks wrote: »
    How do you find it are you using the saw regularly or just for an hour here and there?
    I had the brother in laws 254xp and she was a whore to start when she got hot!!
    Any problems I need to look out for??

    An ama and a 254 is as different as chalk and cheese.


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    #72
    pollocks
    Registered Users Posts: 249 ✭✭pollocks


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    An ama and a 254 is as different as chalk and cheese.

    Yes I know I was referring to I said's post I think he has the 435 with a 15 inch bar


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    #73
    I said
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,855 ✭✭✭I said


    pollocks wrote: »
    How do you find it are you using the saw regularly or just for an hour here and there?
    I had the brother in laws 254xp and she was a whore to start when she got hot!!
    Any problems I need to look out for??

    Use it about 2 hrs at a time no real problems,starting no probs after a couple hours use.


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    #74
    sandydan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    Its lack of power that the saw is dying when when you lean on it, a worn sprocket would be no help to you there, not sure if that saw has a seperate socket or part of the clutch drum.
    Chain must be loose if its coming off bar, cant think of any other reason for that unless the drive link are wore which is very unlikely.

    took off bar to clean lot last night, sprocket not worn much,oil coming out top slot,started saw and placed drum where brake applies on log and leaned on it cut slot into block of wood, i suppose the fact that saw dies down when under pressure is indication clutch is ok, so its bar or/and chain problem. i used vacuum of milking machine to suck out slot on bar too, might try it again


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    #75
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    sandydan wrote: »
    cutting fine but if you lean on saw chain slows and smoke starts to rise under cover at back of bar, chain is inclined to go off bar very easily to the right, its driving me bonkers. but im inclined to get shorter bar anyway,so depending on price of clutch when he gets back to me,rang a few more chain saw dealers around here and not too many want to repair other dealers saws, some ama dealers dont keep parts for them just to order.
    Sounds like a bent drive link on the chain, it will create a lot of heat and slow cutting.
    Have you checked the chain for bent links and tight spots where it won't bend?


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    #76
    sandydan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    could too much oil get into clutch and cause it to slip


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    #77
    sandydan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    Reggie. wrote: »
    Can set it anyway I want with a screw underneath it. I have it set to use a little more oil than petrol

    is that screw in between the 2 bolts.
    actually spoke to different fella where i purchased and he said ideally slightly less oil than petrol is best if equal fine too, reasoning is that if it used more oil than petrol it will be eventually forgotten, in his opinion a bar should never run dry, if it heats, he said he saw some that do queer things after. anyways i told him how mine was acting like cutting in slightly semi-circular and he recons bar needs replacing ,he recommended self sharpening provided saw was under/or 45cc


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    #78
    sandydan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    Sounds like a bent drive link on the chain, it will create a lot of heat and slow cutting.
    Have you checked the chain for bent links and tight spots where it won't bend?
    took off chain cleaned bar etc,no stiff links or anything i could see ,refitted bar chain checked oil and cut 6"approx timber blocks and after cutting 7 the bar was ready to light,talk about steam and smoke. i didn't lean on it or wait for it to cut out,one thing i thought chain was very tight when hot definitely tighter than i set it cold. another thing i noticed is at parts of bar it doesn't seem bite into tree, timber needs to be about 9" inches or less from saw to cut or it seems to "float" might be my imagination


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    #79
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    It has to be an oiling issue, is the rails of the guide bar clean and free and the oiling hole in the bar?
    For that matter does the oiling hole match up to the saw?


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    #80
    sandydan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    It has to be an oiling issue, is the rails of the guide bar clean and free and the oiling hole in the bar?
    For that matter does the oiling hole match up to the saw?

    ,will try and check that, cleaned bar using vacuum from milking machine,oil is definitely coming off chain whether that means its coming from inside off chain track or just off chain surface.

    had a homelite saw for years bought S./H for £70 , it had a manual oiler mighty job you could see oil coning out of bar by using it without saw running


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    #81
    Sir Arthur Daley
    Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    Use a hack saw blade or some metal that will fit between the rails and clean it out, Examine the nose of the bar and see is that sprocket ok too.
    Its an interesting problem.


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    #82
    case956tom
    Registered Users Posts: 180 ✭✭case956tom


    sandydan wrote: »
    actually spoke to different fella where i purchased and he said ideally slightly less oil than petrol is best if equal fine too.
    that sounds like a lot of oil use to me,my saw manual says roughly a fill of bar oil to two fills of fuel.is there oil coming when the bar and chain are off?.atleast it would show a pump prob if no oil coming.is there a leak amywhere from the saw body to use so much oil.


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    #83
    sandydan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    Sir Arthur Daley wrote: »
    Use a hack saw blade or some metal that will fit between the rails and clean it out, Examine the nose of the bar and see is that sprocket ok too.
    Its an interesting problem.

    cleaned bar thoroughly and removed chain, oil is coming into bar in line with hole in bar, plenty of it .neighbour has Johnsred or some name like that with over 12 years with long bar no problems, he recons i need new bar and chain, which do i go for self edging or standard file sharpened chain, btw is oregan a standard or is there much choice/ difference in 16" chains, wont repeat what he thinks of AMA but id agree roughly


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    #84
    BreadnBuddha
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    On mobile so pain to look at earlier posts lads, but has anyone said anything about the sprocket? If the sprocket's dry which it could well be on a cheap bar if chain oil isn't reaching the bearing or if the bars bent at all near the nose, a bit of heat could easy cause the chain to drag, clutch to start slipping and overgeating and the saw to labour.

    In any case I wouldn't be slow about putting a new oregon bar and chain on it and see how it goes. If you've roasted the bar and chain already a good few times it'll benefit from it. You know the saw's running and pulling well until the bar gets scorchio on you and you know it's oiling properly into the bar. You said the sprocket's not badly worn and if the saw pulls well for half a dozen rounds of 15" timber, the clutch isn't the prime suspect.

    I bet the sprocket oil/grease-way is blocked and that's causing the grief. Get a bar grease pump and lube the sprocket every time you fill the saw with chain oil.


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    #85
    BreadnBuddha
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    Feck it. Just saw Arthur Daly's post now.

    15" Oregon Prolite bar and two chains should be had for about 50 quid


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    #86
    CJhaughey
    Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    With the chain sitting in the bar groove how much can you move it from side to side?
    If its more than 10-15º each way then the bar and chain is worn and the chain is not cutting properly.
    Is the chain sharp or dull, ideally it should be too sharp to run your finger over the corner without cutting yourself.
    Dull chain leads to hard work for the saw.
    Self sharpening = gimmick.
    If you want to keep it sharp buy a good file guide and use that.
    Are all the teeth the same length? if one side is shorter than the other the saw will cut crooked.
    It sounds like you need a new b+c to me.
    is oil flowing out the oil hole in the saw with the sidecover off and revving it slightly?
    Oil strainer in the tank clean and not blocked with dust?
    Fish it out with a bit of wire and wash it petrol and blow it out.
    What pitch chain is it .325 lopro or .375 picco?


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    #87
    invicta
    Registered Users Posts: 281 ✭✭invicta


    Is it possible the rakers were never taken down? This would explain a lot i.e. the chain "floating and not cutting."and if the the teeth were not 'biting' into the wood.??


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    #88
    sandydan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    With the chain sitting in the bar groove how much can you move it from side to side?
    If its more than 10-15º each way then the bar and chain is worn and the chain is not cutting properly.
    Self sharpening = gimmick.

    What pitch chain is it .325 lopro or .375 picco?
    i m not a chainsaw expert so cant answer your last question ,other than its an oregan chain,cut off length not out of oregan box like an ama chain.the chain can move a lot more than 15 degrees, supplier staff sharpens chain using saw grinder wheel and imo edge doesn't last long,that's why i was considering a self sharpening bar and chain,few i know who have them recon if used sparingly they are better than grinder sharpening. so is a guide is a must if not expert at sharpening.
    oil is coming out chain bar , i removed chain to check, end sprocket is turning bit like a new one not over-freely, maybe its tightening up and heating.
    what is a bar grease pump , what i do is squirt oil often into sprocket. as i already posted the chain tightens imo when bar gets hot.


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    #89
    sandydan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    invicta wrote: »
    Is it possible the rakers were never taken down? This would explain a lot i.e. the chain "floating and not cutting."and if the the teeth were not 'biting' into the wood.??
    im afraid you will need to explain that one to me , thanks, i thought it was a bar issue


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    #90
    Nekarsulm
    Registered Users Posts: 11,210 ✭✭✭✭Nekarsulm


    sandydan wrote: »
    im afraid you will need to explain that one to me , thanks, i thought it was a bar issue

    The rakers are the ramp shaped pieces of steel in front of the cutting tooth on a chain. They act as a guide to only allow the tooth to cut a fraction of a milimeter each time. As you sharpen a chain, you are lowering the height of the tooth, and soon the raker is higher than the tooth, and its not grabbing enough timber to cut as quickly as it should, Go to youtube and search for "filing rakers, chainsaw" to see what its about. But if you file too much off them, the chain will just bog down and stall in the piece of wood.
    Look for "Donyboy73" on youtube, he has clear simply explained videos.

    https://www.youtube.com/user/donyboy73


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    #91
    sandydan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    thank you very much for trouble all took to help with various suggestions, i really appreciate it, look forward to getting it sorted and learning more about chainsaws and use,


This discussion has been closed.
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