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chainsaw to buy

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    #152
    kay 9
    Registered Users Posts: 2,668 ✭✭✭kay 9


    Keep the fuel fresh or better still use aspen. The autotune and m-tronic saws are not as straight forward to change carb kits and clean. Well wear


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    #153
    Reindeer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭Reindeer


    Bodacious wrote: »
    took delivery today.. it is the ms261 CM mtronic.. seems a beast of a yoke but did no cutting yet .. just read manual and fired her up


    got 2x 100ml stihl oil one shots, 5 litres of stihl chain oil and a big 5ltr stihl fuel can that has a compartment for chain oil also.. £500- E644 delivered in yard assembled


    on stihl usa.com there is a newer ms261 CQ which has an advanced chain braking system over the CM but all other features, power, weight etc are the same

    I'm porting one this week. I'm a bit ill, but I think I can get it done shortly here. I'll have a before, muffler modded, and after porting vid.


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    #154
    Bodacious
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭Bodacious


    kay 9 wrote: »
    Keep the fuel fresh or better still use aspen. The autotune and m-tronic saws are not as straight forward to change carb kits and clean. Well wear

    Have separate Stihl orange container that is all that will be used for saw! Too dear to balls it up with incorrect mix or dirty petrol


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    #155
    Bodacious
    Closed Accounts Posts: 2,274 ✭✭✭Bodacious


    Reindeer wrote: »
    I'm porting one this week. I'm a bit ill, but I think I can get it done shortly here. I'll have a before, muffler modded, and after porting vid.

    You'll have to explain that one a bit better to me when you upload the videos


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    #156
    kay 9
    Registered Users Posts: 2,668 ✭✭✭kay 9


    Bodacious wrote: »
    Have separate Stihl orange container that is all that will be used for saw! Too dear to balls it up with incorrect mix or dirty petrol

    What I meant mate was that petrol that's older than a month shouldn't be used as it goes off. There is no ethanol in aspen so the internals of the carbs etc don't get perished. It also has a shelf life of years. I started using it about a year ago and haven't looked back. I still use conventional two stroke though if I'm stuck. It suits us here on the farm as we're not full time cutting. It has lots of other advantages but I'm not getting into that lol. The only downside is it's a bit more expensive but you have a cleaner running saw.


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    #157
    Reindeer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭Reindeer


    Bodacious wrote: »
    You'll have to explain that one a bit better to me when you upload the videos

    I'll just leave this here:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9w08Uj1xGI

    These puppies begin life loud. You do a mod like I just did, and it becomes easily the loudest 50cc saw I have ever used. And it also becomes, by far, the most powerful 50cc saw I have ever used with a simple muffler mod. In fact, it's like a 35% improvement in cut time in that wood(and the last few inches are with the bar buried). It is more powerful than the Echo CS520 I ported a few years back. I sort of want a 261 now...


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    #158
    kay 9
    Registered Users Posts: 2,668 ✭✭✭kay 9


    Reindeer wrote: »
    I'll just leave this here:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9w08Uj1xGI

    These puppies begin life loud. You do a mod like I just did, and it becomes easily the loudest 50cc saw I have ever used. And it also becomes, by far, the most powerful 50cc saw I have ever used with a simple muffler mod. In fact, it's like a 35% improvement in cut time in that wood(and the last few inches are with the bar buried). It is more powerful than the Echo CS520 I ported a few years back. I sort of want a 261 now...
    That saw is fairly throwing chips. It's more like a ported 60cc


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    #159
    Reindeer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭Reindeer


    kay 9 wrote: »
    That saw is fairly throwing chips. It's more like a ported 60cc

    The improvement is just stunning for a simple muffler modification. I couldn't believe it. Now I am meant to port it and find even more of that in it. We'll see...


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    #160
    135man
    Registered Users Posts: 132 ✭✭135man


    I'm thinking of buying a Stihl ms 181c-be just to cut up a bit of firewood and tidy up the usual, can any one give me the good and bad points of 1 thanks very much.


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    #161
    Fiskar
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,599 ✭✭✭Fiskar


    135man wrote: »
    I'm thinking of buying a Stihl ms 181c-be just to cut up a bit of firewood and tidy up the usual, can any one give me the good and bad points of 1 thanks very much.

    You cannot go wrong with the MS 181 for general wood cutting and felling of softwood trees. My dad bought one (has a number of electric chainsaws) and is taking down large softwoods, bucking and limbing with the unit he bought a few months ago. He has nothing but praise for it and he is hard on saws and equipment in general. Bad points, well he hasn't broken the tool less chain tensioner yet! I will see it in a few weeks and know what to expect, by all accounts the yard is full of softwood rings!


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    #162
    135man
    Registered Users Posts: 132 ✭✭135man


    Fiskar wrote: »
    You cannot go wrong with the MS 181 for general wood cutting and felling of softwood trees. My dad bought one (has a number of electric chainsaws) and is taking down large softwoods, bucking and limbing with the unit he bought a few months ago. He has nothing but praise for it and he is hard on saws and equipment in general. Bad points, well he hasn't broken the tool less chain tensioner yet! I will see it in a few weeks and know what to expect, by all accounts the yard is full of softwood rings!

    That's all I want to cut down a few Sally's and the likes !!


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    #163
    paddyc310
    Registered Users Posts: 46 ✭paddyc310


    Good heavy sthil will fly through when cutting through you need the power and good.edge you could pick up small saw with small blade for branches seacondhand good luck


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    #164
    zetecescort
    Registered Users Posts: 5,111 ✭✭✭zetecescort


    Would ye consider buying a saw without chain brake these days? See a few on Donedeal now and again. Would only be used for cutting bigger stuff on a sawhorse. I guess if I'm asking that I'm not confident in my own abilities and should leave them alone.


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    #165
    kay 9
    Registered Users Posts: 2,668 ✭✭✭kay 9


    zetecescort wrote: »
    Would ye consider buying a saw without chain brake these days? See a few on Donedeal now and again. Would only be used for cutting bigger stuff on a sawhorse. I guess if I'm asking that I'm not confident in my own abilities and should leave them alone.
    My advice is stay away from them. Anything of that era is also laden with weight and very cumbersome. They are more collectors items anymore. Saws are dangerous enough with them never mind without. They be ok on a mill and that's about it


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    #166
    paddyc310
    Registered Users Posts: 46 ✭paddyc310


    There are lots of real cheap saws for sale at markets travellers etc which are useless got conned myself to buyonemight as well have gone to the pub that day chain break on those cheap ones but useless and no back up if you can find a good dealership they will advise you on the type of saw you need and will back it up good luck


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    #167
    HillFarmer
    Registered Users Posts: 580 ✭✭✭HillFarmer


    Bodacious wrote: »
    Have separate Stihl orange container that is all that will be used for saw! Too dear to balls it up with incorrect mix or dirty petrol

    Hey Bodacious, how did you go with the new saw?

    I'm looking at AM rentals for the same saw . How did you find them to deal with?

    Did you get a run out with the new saw yet?


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    #168
    case956tom
    Registered Users Posts: 180 ✭✭case956tom


    HillFarmer wrote: »
    Hey Bodacious, how did you go with the new saw?

    I'm looking at AM rentals for the same saw . How did you find them to deal with?

    Did you get a run out with the new saw yet?
    I bought a 261 m tronic just before Christmas I thought id be disappointed stepping down from an 044, has good power only have two tanks of fuel through it should be a bit more to come,i hoped it might be a bit lighter but its not an issue while working,have to say cant fault it.
    I bought mine in Cathcarts in Enniskillen way closer to me than newry.


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    #169
    sandydan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    sandydan wrote: »
    it was a microlite bar and matching chain 15" he supplied,got a fair bit of use from it so far and edged it at least 10 times since ,im cutting tree roots and there seems to be clay or pebbles in some as well youd see sparks fly even out of the timber.

    was cutting 8" branch of tree overhanging fencing last week and it turned catching bar just at sprocket and now its cutting in semicircles . dealer straightened it in vice no problem said it was like piece of tin and has to be replaced.he has no time for oregan bars now , his opinion is they cut costs and quality in that range in order to compete with cheap imports from far east, im getting a different brand which is 1" longer so chain will need additional links. also the bar is worn well with sides of chain track noticeably worn , he recons the original ama bar was better quality


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    #170
    kay 9
    Registered Users Posts: 2,668 ✭✭✭kay 9


    What saw have you? Sugi are great bars. Bars are not made to be pinched although it does happen. I think you were unfortunate tbh. Husky bars are ok but doubt last, I'd have a sugi, cannon or stihl in that order.


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    #171
    BreadnBuddha
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,311 ✭✭✭BreadnBuddha


    kay 9 wrote: »
    What saw have you? Sugi are great bars. Bars are not made to be pinched although it does happen. I think you were unfortunate tbh. Husky bars are ok but doubt last, I'd have a sugi, cannon or stihl in that order.

    In fairness did you not get that bar and two chains for about €55 Dan? Bars aren't meant to be pinched or stuck in the dirt and while it happens there's no real point in listening to a dealer rubbishing something that cost a fifth of then price of a Sugi. I'd rather stick another €20-25 bar on if what I'm doing with it is rough than damage over €100 worth of a bar. A heavy pinch will wreck any sprocket on a smallish low kickback bar.


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    #172
    sandydan
    Registered Users Posts: 1,471 ✭✭✭sandydan


    kay 9 wrote: »
    What saw have you? Sugi are great bars. Bars are not made to be pinched although it does happen. I think you were unfortunate tbh. Husky bars are ok but doubt last, I'd have a sugi, cannon or stihl in that order.
    its an ama saw and dong fine and i recon last ama bar was ruined due to not being oiled properly , the oil was thrown off instead of spraying off lightly, bar overheated as result . too greasy or so ive been told. oil i got from dealer goes off as spray instead of as a slick of oil.
    the oregan micro-lite bar was straightened and sprocket is undamaged, but there is a lot of wear in bar as well so i was advised to replace it with different brand bar this time costing €30 or so,just to try one out.
    i know little about saws only what i learned from advice and suggestions on this forum for which im extremely grateful believe me, so at minute im just inclined to try a different brand of bar to try it out and i will let ye know results of that experiment. anyways i dont know if that brand is available at that price which seemed to be timed to coincide with ploughing match promotions .
    he told me he rebuilt husky and stihl and another brand of saw over the last while for fellas who would not buy newer models and spent up to €350 in process but who recon its worth every cent of work involved rather than purchase new models costing approx €900


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    #173
    jonon9
    Registered Users Posts: 1,124 ✭✭✭jonon9


    Im running the bog standard Stihl Rollermatic E, I wonder are the ES and ES Light bars worth the purchase?


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    #174
    kay 9
    Registered Users Posts: 2,668 ✭✭✭kay 9


    jonon9 wrote: »
    Im running the bog standard Stihl Rollermatic E, I wonder are the ES and ES Light bars worth the purchase?

    Down to preference really as well as how much you use it. They are top class bars though.


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    #175
    HW100S
    Registered Users Posts: 280 ✭✭HW100S


    bigfella567 wrote: »
    hi all,
    looking at buying a chainsaw for cutting up firewood for my own use as well as cutting down trees on other peoples land to sell as fire wood. i have roughly 500-600 to spend on chainsaw . what should i buy ? i hear stihl and husqvarna are best . but i have also used oleo mac before and i quite like it. the trees are fairly big around 2 ft or a little more so what ever you think is best ? i'm only a newbie to the chainsaw market so i need some advice.

    thanks in advance!
    bigfella567.

    I have a stihl 361 professional, its a fantastic saw, with loads of power. I would recommend it but I believe the model has changed to 362.


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    #176
    jonon9
    Registered Users Posts: 1,124 ✭✭✭jonon9


    HW100S wrote: »
    I have a stihl 361 professional, its a fantastic saw, with loads of power. I would recommend it but I believe the model has changed to 362.

    I dont know if you can get a 362 for 600 quid maybe second hand though.


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    #177
    kay 9
    Registered Users Posts: 2,668 ✭✭✭kay 9


    HW100S wrote: »
    I have a stihl 361 professional, its a fantastic saw, with loads of power. I would recommend it but I believe the model has changed to 362.
    I'd have a 361 before a 362. One the best 60cc saws ever built. Look after it, they're a gem


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    #178
    JohnBoy
    Registered Users Posts: 2,343 ✭✭✭JohnBoy


    paddyc310 wrote: »
    Good heavy sthil will fly through when cutting through you need the power and good.edge you could pick up small saw with small blade for branches seacondhand good luck



    I've been saw shopping recently and I'd think the exact opposite. I see little value in second hand small saws, but good value in bigger ones.


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    #179
    Reindeer
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,079 ✭✭✭Reindeer


    jonon9 wrote: »
    Im running the bog standard Stihl Rollermatic E, I wonder are the ES and ES Light bars worth the purchase?

    If you're getting good mileage out of the "E" series, I would stick with them. They are cheaper and lighter.


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    #180
    JohnBoy
    Registered Users Posts: 2,343 ✭✭✭JohnBoy


    JohnBoy wrote: »
    I've been saw shopping recently and I'd think the exact opposite. I see little value in second hand small saws, but good value in bigger ones.

    I need to eat my words.

    Stihl main dealer in tipp town has a room full of serviced, warrantied saws.

    http://www.donedeal.ie/find/all/for-sale/Ireland/?filters%5BuserId%5D=479142

    Got me an MS180 during lunch time


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