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Detailing chat

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    cena wrote: »
    Is compound the best product to remove swirls

    Yes. But remember, key principle is to work from least aggressive combo up to most aggressive, inspecting at each stage.
    What are you trying to do? Thai might guide the response a bit better..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,055 ✭✭✭✭cena


    myshirt wrote: »
    Yes. But remember, key principle is to work from least aggressive combo up to most aggressive, inspecting at each stage.
    What are you trying to do? Thai might guide the response a bit better..

    Its a black 07 Astra with loads of swirls. Drives me mad when the sun shines on it. Don't have the money to buy a DA so well be done by hand I guess


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    cena wrote: »
    Its a black 07 Astra with loads of swirls. Drives me mad when the sun shines on it. Don't have the money to buy a DA so well be done by hand I guess

    It takes quite some time for a panel to be corrected using a D/A when it's badly swirled. It's near impossible to do it by hand.

    The main thing in a correction is that heat builds up in the metal of the panel. This is key as the heat aids in the correction.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,615 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    cena wrote: »
    Its a black 07 Astra with loads of swirls. Drives me mad when the sun shines on it. Don't have the money to buy a DA so well be done by hand I guess

    Compound could be a bit harsh on the Astra paint as it is a soft paint afaik.

    You could try a less agressive polish.
    Gtechniq P1 is supposed to give great results when used by hand,
    You will most likely still see swirls under lights etc. Machine polish is the only way forward to be fair. You could also give it a couple of coats of a Glaze and top it with a wax of choice.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    Cena, you will significantly improve it with something like SRP or R222 with a wax on top. That should be sufficient until you can get a DA. It might even be good enough for you.

    Dip your toe into the lower end of detailing, then work your way up. You could also try 50cal Filler Glaze and Pentawax combo, available locally.
    Though for my part, I don't rate the glaze too high by hand, much, much better by DA. More of a gloss enhancing product by hand, didn't really fill swirls for me. Then again, some swirls are beyond the reach of what is the state of the car and my high expectations! How bad are the swirls on the Astra?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,549 ✭✭✭*Kol*


    It takes quite some time for a panel to be corrected using a D/A when it's badly swirled. It's near impossible to do it by hand.

    The main thing in a correction is that heat builds up in the metal of the panel. This is key as the heat aids in the correction.

    The reason why I have been reluctant to use a machine is because I have read before that a build up of heat is a bad thing?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    *Kol* wrote: »
    The reason why I have been reluctant to use a machine is because I have read before that a build up of heat is a bad thing?

    A build-up and overheat is bad, yes but a small bit of heat is needed :)

    It's also important to remember that on a metal panel, heat will disperse but on a plastic or fibre-glass panel, it won't.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,549 ✭✭✭*Kol*


    Has anybody used the Bilt Hamber foam? Is there a consensus about effectiveness of foam versus quantity and thickness of foam? I ask because the write up on the Bilt Hamber foam seems to suggest that it doesn't produce large quantities of mega thick foam and I quote "It is not designed as a superficial high foam product but as a functional material." So are some of the foams out there providing a placebo effect for people by giving them the foam that they desire? :confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Yes...most people seem to think that the thickness of foam is the standard at which it is measured, when in fact its not the case. A foam should be measured on cleaning ability, if its LSP safe, and then perhaps foam thickness or dwell time.
    A foam that is like shaving foam, isnt really any help, as it doesnt run in between all the hard to reach areas.

    If you want to rate foam in fun factor, there are plenty of cheap high foaming solutions that dont do much in the way of cleaning.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,549 ✭✭✭*Kol*


    Curran wrote: »
    Yes...most people seem to think that the thickness of foam is the standard at which it is measured, when in fact its not the case. A foam should be measured on cleaning ability, if its LSP safe, and then perhaps foam thickness or dwell time.
    A foam that is like shaving foam, isnt really any help, as it doesnt run in between all the hard to reach areas.

    If you want to rate foam in fun factor, there are plenty of cheap high foaming solutions that dont do much in the way of cleaning.

    Thanks for that. I guess my question really is if i should get the bilt hamber or the 50 Cal foam?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    I havent had the chance to try the Bilt Hamber...but it gets very good reviews.
    Bilt Hamber are lab rats...they dont spend their time or money on marketing / hyping up their products. They spend it making quality products and let the customers spread the word. Anything I've used from them is excellent.

    That said, Combat is my current foam and I find it very good. You'd be pleased with either! ;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 164 ✭✭dredg


    Curran wrote: »
    I havent had the chance to try the Bilt Hamber...but it gets very good reviews.
    Bilt Hamber are lab rats...they dont spend their time or money on marketing / hyping up their products. They spend it making quality products and let the customers spread the word. Anything I've used from them is excellent.

    That said, Combat is my current foam and I find it very good. You'd be pleased with either! ;)

    I've only used Bilt Hamber Korrosol and it's really effective at removing fallout and actually smells nice. It smells kind of like cake.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,792 ✭✭✭Ded_Zebra


    Just wanted to stop by and say that Bilt Hamber Auto Wheels is my favourite product at the moment and my favourite ever wheel cleaner.:cool:

    Awesome stuff, if you haven't tried it you should! Doesn't even smell that bad :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,446 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Ded_Zebra wrote: »
    Just wanted to stop by and say that Bilt Hamber Auto Wheels is my favourite product at the moment and my favourite ever wheel cleaner.:cool:

    Awesome stuff, if you haven't tried it you should! Doesn't even smell that bad :P

    Its rotten! But brilliant


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,446 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    I ended up ordering a snowfoam lance online, it's with parcel motel now. Will be a while before I get to use it now though, going to have a lot on


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,055 ✭✭✭✭cena


    Anyone know if the ironx foam soap like snow foam. You just spray it on the car??


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    It is a snowfoam with fallout remover in it - nowhere near as concentrated as the IronX, but if used every few washes, it will help keep the car becoming so contaminated


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,615 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    Curran wrote: »
    It is a snowfoam with fallout remover in it - nowhere near as concentrated as the IronX, but if used every few washes, it will help keep the car becoming so contaminated


    LSP friendly?
    I am assuming regular use would harm the LSP?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Safe for their coatings. Probably not ideal for traditional LSPs, but not as damaging as TFRs for example.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,245 ✭✭✭myshirt


    Is there anything that is truely lsp safe and also excellent in it's performance :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,854 ✭✭✭✭MetzgerMeister


    myshirt wrote: »
    Is there anything that is truely lsp safe and also excellent in it's performance :pac:

    Yes......more LSP :P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,055 ✭✭✭✭cena


    LSP???


  • Registered Users Posts: 164 ✭✭dredg


    cena wrote: »
    LSP???

    Lysergic acid piethylamide. mmm pie.

    Seriously, Last Step/Stage Product/Protection.
    In other words wax or sealant.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,687 ✭✭✭Danger781


    Hey lads,

    Can anyone point me in the direction of a "How to"? I've never so much as washed my car and I'm growing tired of forking out money every time I want to get her cleaned. What I'm looking for is info on what to do, products to use etc. I've been recommended 303 aerospace for recovering the black plastic above the wheel arch, as it is looking more grey than black. Other than that I am at a bit of a loss!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Have a read here

    Aerospace 303 isnt a bad option, but quite expensive for how long it would last. CarPro PERL would be a better option. And its quite a versatile product - undiluted it can be used on the tyres, 1:1 for trims etc on the exterior, and diluted further for engine bay plastics and more again for interior.

    CarPro DLUX is a slightly more expensive option, especially when you consider the volume you get, but its an ultra durable coating. With the correct prepartion; it will be durable for a year or more.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,113 ✭✭✭Gavman84


    Managed to get the car washed and coat of quick detailer and sealed the wheels before I started to pour thankfully! Went to shops then and was dirty again so I gave it a quick rinse and dressed tyres. Will probably be manky when arrive to Ford show in morning!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,301 ✭✭✭Supergurrier


    Gavman84 wrote: »
    Managed to get the car washed and coat of quick detailer and sealed the wheels before I started to pour thankfully! Went to shops then and was dirty again so I gave it a quick rinse and dressed tyres. Will probably be manky when arrive to Ford show in morning!

    Could be worse, driving from Galway to Dublin for cars shows in summertime regardless how clean car is you arrive in a dusty dead bug front end massacre :p


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 9,968 ✭✭✭mik_da_man


    Got all ready to wash the car today and it started to rain so abandoned that.

    I've a trip to Galway/Mayo tomorrow and figured no matter how clean I'd get it, it would be filthy again when I got there... :mad:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,055 ✭✭✭✭cena




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Have heard of them - but not heard of any experiences with them.

    Their products seem to be harsh chemicals, that over time would be bad for your car.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,055 ✭✭✭✭cena


    Curran wrote: »
    Have heard of them - but not heard of any experiences with them.

    Their products seem to be harsh chemicals, that over time would be bad for your car.

    Would that cherry bomb foam be harsh too?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    I would suspect its Traffic Film Remover (TFR), which is probably quite good at cleaning, but now wax safe, and over time, will degrade trim, plastics and rubber, etc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,687 ✭✭✭Danger781


    Anyone used any of the detailing products available in Tesco?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,687 ✭✭✭Danger781


    Sorry I probably should have been more specific but I was on mobile :P

    Saw my local Tesco had a stand for Simoniz cleaning products, so ended up picking up a few for cleaning the car tomorrow. Does anyone have any experience with this brand? Popped the name into Amazon and briefly scrolled through the results - Relatively positive results overall!

    DeLmcfEl.jpg

    Not doing a full on detail, just enough to get it looking respectable as I can't stand it being dirty for much longer.

    Am I going to need anything else or am I all set? Can pop up again in the morning since it's only 5 minutes away.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,055 ✭✭✭✭cena


    Woodies started selling the shampoo and wax. But on the bottle it says for pressure washer


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,687 ✭✭✭Danger781


    cena wrote: »
    Woodies started selling the shampoo and wax. But on the bottle it says for pressure washer

    Instructions on mine says add to bucket with warm water.. :confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,608 ✭✭✭Newtown90


    Danger781 wrote: »
    Sorry I probably should have been more specific but I was on mobile :P

    Saw my local Tesco had a stand for Simoniz cleaning products, so ended up picking up a few for cleaning the car tomorrow. Does anyone have any experience with this brand? Popped the name into Amazon and briefly scrolled through the results - Relatively positive results overall!

    DeLmcfEl.jpg

    Not doing a full on detail, just enough to get it looking respectable as I can't stand it being dirty for much longer.

    Am I going to need anything else or am I all set? Can pop up again in the morning since it's only 5 minutes away.


    I hope you kept the receipt to carry back those sponges! :eek::eek:

    Don't put them near the car :(:(:(

    Used to use that Simonz wash before I got "the bug".... Does the job but not amazing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,687 ✭✭✭Danger781


    Glenviewjf wrote: »
    I hope you kept the receipt to carry back those sponges! :eek::eek:

    Don't put them near the car :(:(:(.

    Why not? :confused:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    Danger781 wrote: »
    Why not? :confused:

    Christ, the boys here will eat you! :pac:

    Main reason being sponges hold the grit, dirt etc that's on the car. So you go and wipe the sponge on the dirty paintwork, then dip it into the bucket and go to wipe again, a lot of the grit will be left on the sponge, so essentially you are rubbing a layer of grit onto your paintwork, between the paint and sponge, creating lots and lots of swirl marks.

    What you need is microfibre mitts for washing the car. I only use sponges for applying tyre dressings.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,687 ✭✭✭Danger781


    Christ, the boys here will eat you! :pac:

    Main reason being sponges hold the grit, dirt etc that's on the car. So you go and wipe the sponge on the dirty paintwork, then dip it into the bucket and go to wipe again, a lot of the grit will be left on the sponge, so essentially you are rubbing a layer of grit onto your paintwork, between the paint and sponge, creating lots and lots of swirl marks.

    What you need is microfibre mitts for washing the car. I only use sponges for applying tyre dressings.

    Grand good to know.. Have a glove and 5 micro cloths so should be okay

    Nice one :)

    Edit: In case it wasn't obvious, this is my first car :pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,608 ✭✭✭Newtown90


    Danger781 wrote: »
    Grand good to know.. Have a glove and 5 micro cloths so should be okay

    Nice one :)

    Edit: In case it wasn't obvious, this is my first car :pac:

    Best of luck with it! Post pics :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,687 ✭✭✭Danger781


    Christ it took me a bloody eternity to finish hoovering.. Note to self: get a better hoover! There was so little suction out of it so it took so long to finish hoovering up all the astro grass that got stuck to my carpets :(

    And just as I finished.. it started to rain! Should I chance my arm and keep going or give in to the weather?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,549 ✭✭✭*Kol*


    Danger781 wrote: »
    Christ it took me a bloody eternity to finish hoovering.. Note to self: get a better hoover! There was so little suction out of it so it took so long to finish hoovering up all the astro grass that got stuck to my carpets :(

    And just as I finished.. it started to rain! Should I chance my arm and keep going or give in to the weather?

    Give in. You can't dry a car in the rain.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Is the hoover bag full?? Some carpets are a nightmare to get right...if they are tough, hard wearing, carpets, the grit just gets embedded. The best thing to do is have a brush and hoover going at the same time. Give them a brush to loosen and vac up! Repeat, repeat and repeat.

    As regards the products; sponges are not good as pointed out. That mitt doesn't look too plush either. The shampoo is probably average enough; do a job but anything thats wash and wax in one, usually doesnt work. The glass cleaner is probably grab, and perhaps the carpet cleaner and brush.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,086 ✭✭✭markc1184


    Anyone have any thoughts on filler glazes? Are they worth using to cover some minor imperfections? I have been looking at getting something like 50Cal Filler Glaze to try out on my car. At which stage in the polish/waxing process would be best to use the glaze?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    50 Cal's Cover Up Filler Glaze is one of the better ones out there. As you probably know, glazes are only a temporary solution to the problem, and are limited to covering minor imperfections.
    As ever, the prepartion is key to getting good results - the product alone is not a magic solution; it will improve things, but you want to get the best results possible.

    Wash, de-tar, rinse, de-iron, rinse, clay, rinse, re-wash and dry...now the paintwork is contamination free and well prep'd.

    Depending on the condition of the paintwork, polishing may not be necessary. If the paintwork is lacking shine, due to oxidation, a dull / faded appearance...has no depth, shine or clarity, then it would be advisable to polish it. However if its not totally necessary, the polish that you apply will hinder the bonding of the glaze, so best avoided if possible.

    So after the wash and drying post prep, then you apply the glaze. After that you will need to apply either a wax or sealant to ensure the glaze is locked in, otherwise it will just wash out after a few washes or a few miles on bad roads.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,055 ✭✭✭✭cena


    Anyone every use hair wax to wax a car? jUST A THOUGHT that came into my head today


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,549 ✭✭✭*Kol*


    cena wrote: »
    Anyone every use hair wax to wax a car? jUST A THOUGHT that came into my head today

    I don't think it would have the same properties as car wax. Think about it the other way too. Would you use car wax on your hair? I have feck all hair so I'm not risking it!!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,055 ✭✭✭✭cena


    *Kol* wrote: »
    I don't think it would have the same properties as car wax. Think about it the other way too. Would you use car wax on your hair? I have feck all hair so I'm not risking it!!

    I have never used hair wax on my hair


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