Detailing chat

statto25

shanec1928 wrote: »

no 45 according to instructions on it.

I see some places saying 20 mins but dont let it dry or it needs to be polished off. Surely after 20 mins it would be well dry never mind 45?

PsychoPete

I left it on paint for 30 minutes and it was still wet

garv123

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

There's a product called Vasco Pre Wash on the market. OCD Detailing in Ferbane stock it. You spray it all over the car, leave for 45 minutes then pressure wash it off. It clings to the surface and melts all the tar but also acts as a snowfoam of sorts rather than it just being a tar remover. Apply to a dry vehicle rather than rinsing it down beforehand so it can do its job properly.

PsychoPete wrote: »

I left it on paint for 30 minutes and it was still wet

Thanks,

Is this as effective and easy as it sounds?

I got this stuff last week.

It worked absolutely brilliantly, spray on, wipe off after 45 seconds, but the aerosol can doesn't last too long with the area I have to cover. Wind doesn't help either. Turtle wax tar and bug remover on the other hand.. absolutely useless.

Mycro

I used the Reflect “Tar & Glue Remover” a few weeks ago to remove tar spots. The lower half of the car had quite a few tar spots.

After washing the car as normal, I sprayed the tar remover on the car, either one or two panels at a time if I remember correctly and let it dwell for 2 or 3 mins. I then agitated with a cheap lambs wool mitt from Amazon, not one of the ones I use for the main wash. This removed most of the tar and I tackled the remaining few spots individually with a localized spray and delicate agitation. It worked a treat, and doesn’t appear to have worsened the paintwork. To me, the Reflect Tar Remover seems to be a good product but I’m no expert.

MetzgerMeister

garv123 wrote: »

Turtle wax tar and bug remover on the other hand.. absolutely useless.

I've always said about this product that you may as well be using whipped cream. For some reason it's absolute and utter rubbish.

Hebegeebee

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

There's a product called Vasco Pre Wash on the market. OCD Detailing in Ferbane stock it. You spray it all over the car, leave for 45 minutes then pressure wash it off. It clings to the surface and melts all the tar but also acts as a snowfoam of sorts rather than it just being a tar remover. Apply to a dry vehicle rather than rinsing it down beforehand so it can do its job properly.

Paschal at Washme.ie stocks this Vasco too. Videos of it look interesting and it’s on my to buy list.

PowerToWait

Any steers on where I can get a Nilfisk C 110 by next weekend, preferably Irish retailers?

clintondaly

PowerToWait wrote: »

Any steers on where I can get a Nilfisk C 110 by next weekend, preferably Irish retailers?

https://www.vikingdirect.ie/en/nilfisk-pressure-washer-p-1052643

In stock too

CianRyan

FWIW, I've had the above for what must be nearly 10 years now and it's still doing fantastic.
I may need to change an o-ring this year, maybe. That'll be the first bit of maintenance.

PowerToWait

clintondaly wrote: »

https://www.vikingdirect.ie/en/nilfisk-pressure-washer-p-1052643

In stock too

Tvm for that, ordered this morning.

cena

Any use any water softener system on their outside tap when washing the car to stop lime marks?

MetzgerMeister

cena wrote: »

Any use any water softener system on their outside tap when washing the car to stop lime marks?

Yep, I use a DI Vessel and Unger Resin specifically for washing cars.





The lime in my water isn't near as bad as it used be as we have a new water treatment facility in a neighbouring town but I still need this set up.

Cass

garv123 wrote: »

I can get 5lr Concept tar remover at a good price so I'll go for that if people think its any good?

What's the best cloth for wiping it off with? I have a roll of soft cotton or polishing, would that do?
.

My opinion, go with this:

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

There's a product called Vasco Pre Wash on the market. OCD Detailing in Ferbane stock it. You spray it all over the car, leave for 45 minutes then pressure wash it off. It clings to the surface and melts all the tar but also acts as a snowfoam of sorts rather than it just being a tar remover. Apply to a dry vehicle rather than rinsing it down beforehand so it can do its job properly.

I have this and use it regular enough.

The time on the bottle is correct. Minimum of 20 minutes but up to 45. However, and iv'e done this a few times on really badly fouled cars, i bring the car into the garage at night (only works in the shade so not in midday/direct sunlight) and spray the car from roof to sills. I go into the house, and go to bed.

Next morning i bring the car out and power hose off the Vasco. There is not cloths, sponges, microfibre, brushes or anything else involved. As the Vasco is a gel based product it never dries (again once not in direct sunlight). So in the garage it had 8+ hours to work. When i come out to it in the morning its still wet.

Cannot recommend it enough (and before anyone asks i don't work for nor have any affiliation to the company or product).

If you have not the patience for an hour or more for it to work thoroughly then you can try one of the "quick solution" ones but the thoughts of rubbing "dissolved" tar around/on my car bothers me, hence the Vasco.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFk7Pp8esXs

statto25

Cass wrote: »

My opinion, go with this:

I have this and use it regular enough.

Christ, thats a game changer!

shanec1928

statto25 wrote: »

Christ, thats a game changer!

its great stuff. having seen all the reviews i got 5L of it a few weeks ago and only got around to trying it out on herselfs car at the weekend. below is a few pictures of it in action. forgot to get some after pics, was in a rush. that was when it was on roughly 20 mins, it took off 95% of the tar and im sure if i left it longer it would have gotten all of it off as could see the bits that were left were coming off when touched.





https://imgur.com/a/V3KRLQM

garv123

Cass wrote: »

My opinion, go with this:

I have this and use it regular enough.

shanec1928 wrote: »

its great stuff. having seen all the reviews i got 5L of it a few weeks ago and only got around to trying it out on herselfs car at the weekend. below is a few pictures of it in action. forgot to get some after pics, was in a rush. that was when it was on roughly 20 mins, it took off 95% of the tar and im sure if i left it longer it would have gotten all of it off as could see the bits that were left were coming off when touched.

Thanks lads,

How far does a 1L bottle get you?

shanec1928

i was eh fairly liberal with it, used under 500ml, probably could have used half that, the car wasn't long under the shadow of the house and last weekend was warm enough so i took to the side of caution.

Cass

garv123 wrote: »

How far does a 1L bottle get you?

First application can use up to half the bottle. However you can adjust the spray by keeping the bottle back a little more from the car and giving a "misting" effect.

Unless you work for roadstone the following applications shouldn't require as much as you won't be treating the entire car and the contamination shouldn't be as severe.

My advice. Give a decent liberal application but don't go to town. Give it an hour or more (as long as you can really) and if you return and notice some areas of the car are more contaminated than others (usually around the wheel arches, front doors lower down, and perhaps boot lid) you can give a top up application to those areas without cleaning off the previous application.

Of course this really only works on cars that are not black (guess what mine is :rolleyes: ) and you can see the tar dissolving.

garv123

Cass wrote: »

First application can use up to half the bottle. However you can adjust the spray by keeping the bottle back a little more from the car and giving a "misting" effect.

Unless you work for roadstone the following applications shouldn't require as much as you won't be treating the entire car and the contamination shouldn't be as severe.

My advice. Give a decent liberal application but don't go to town. Give it an hour or more (as long as you can really) and if you return and notice some areas of the car are more contaminated than others (usually around the wheel arches, front doors lower down, and perhaps boot lid) you can give a top up application to those areas without cleaning off the previous application.

Of course this really only works on cars that are not black (guess what mine is :rolleyes: ) and you can see the tar dissolving.

Oh my l200 looks like it got stuck in a truck of tar at some stage, well actually feels like it, because its black too :rolleyes:

its rough with tar right up to the roof. I did get a lot off with the simmons aerosol but most of that blew away in the wind. I'll bite the bullet and get the 5L, the i40 is white and could do with a good spray down too.

Cass

garv123 wrote: »

Oh my l200 looks like it got stuck in a truck of tar at some stage, well actually feels like it, because its black too :rolleyes:

My parents car is something similar. For a car that does about 3000k per year i often wonder if they take a short cut home through a quarry.

its rough with tar right up to the roof.

The Vasco is safe on all surfaces so don't be nervous where you spray it. Plastic, glass, paintwork, etc. Its all fine.

I did get a lot off with the simmons aerosol but most of that blew away in the wind.

That'll happen with aerosols and also any dissolved tar usually "sets" back on the car. I like the Vasco because the gel formula keeps the tar soft until its washed away.

I'll bite the bullet and get the 5L, the i40 is white and could do with a good spray down too.

After my third bottle i done the same. Bought the 5L. If nothing else it saves you a few bob too.

Post some before and after pictures will ya?

frozenfrozen

Any good stuff to remove water spots from glass? Have tried 0000 steel wool (not pictured) and it took ages and other than making the water behave like normal glass it didn't get rid of the spots. I presume there's some kind of old coating on the glass as they bead up water but it doesn't roll off hence the bad deposits

Have read vinegar but it never works on shower glass for me. Read somewhere else denatured alcohol which I haven't tried and I do have 99% ipa..

Or should I just wait till I have a polisher and use an abrasive for glass?

shanec1928

Clay bar should get it off. Had the exact same issue when I got some quick detailer on the windscreen.

clubberlang12

frozenfrozen wrote: »

Any good stuff to remove water spots from glass? Have tried 0000 steel wool (not pictured) and it took ages and other than making the water behave like normal glass it didn't get rid of the spots. I presume there's some kind of old coating on the glass as they bead up water but it doesn't roll off hence the bad deposits

Have read vinegar but it never works on shower glass for me. Read somewhere else denatured alcohol which I haven't tried and I do have 99% ipa..

Or should I just wait till I have a polisher and use an abrasive for glass?

Check out Labocosmetica "Energo". Pascal in WashMe Ireland stocks it. Best product I've come across for chemically removing mineral desposits.

PowerToWait

Anyone have any idea what may have done this to my bonnet? And best way to fix it?!

CianRyan

I bought a random orbital sander today (non car related DIY), can these be used with polishing pads for paint correction?

It is a Bosch PEX 220 A.

JamBur

PowerToWait wrote: »

Anyone have any idea what may have done this to my bonnet? And best way to fix it?!

Christ, thats deep. Hard to figure how that happened. Bird strike while driving?

PowerToWait

JamBur wrote: »

Christ, thats deep. Hard to figure how that happened. Bird strike while driving?

Yeah it’s bad alright. I think I definitely would’ve noticed an impact like that, looks like something pointy and metal. Just hoping it’s not local scrotes as it will happen again if so.

PsychoPete

I'd touch it up with some paint and clear coat unless you were going to get it repainted

PowerToWait

PsychoPete wrote: »

I'd touch it up with some paint and clear coat unless you were going to get it repainted

Respray isn't a runner anyway. Touch it up alright. I've never seen stones do anything similar which has me head melted!

Klopp

Is there anyone here who has bought and uses the IK FOAM PRO 12 they would recommend? I currently use the two bucket method but looking at some other options.

pafro

clubberlang12 wrote: »

Check out Labocosmetica "Energo". Pascal in WashMe Ireland stocks it. Best product I've come across for chemically removing mineral desposits.

Thank you! Pascal here btw.
Indeed Energo is brilliant for water spots and limescale. No other product has come even close to it. Very easy to use as well.

PsychoPete

Had to de-tar the car at the weekend, smothered the car in vasco and left it in the garage for an hour. Not a speck of tar left on the paint after rinsing. I really can't see myself going back to normal tar remover, not when it comes to doing full cars anyway

clubberlang12

PsychoPete wrote: »

Had to de-tar the car at the weekend, smothered the car in vasco and left it in the garage for an hour. Not a speck of tar left on the paint after rinsing. I really can't see myself going back to normal tar remover, not when it comes to doing full cars anyway

If you have the time to let it dwell(the longer the better!), it really is the closest thing to a non-contact tar removal product I've come across.

Gumbo

Klopp wrote: »

Is there anyone here who has bought and uses the IK FOAM PRO 12 they would recommend? I currently use the two bucket method but looking at some other options.

What function do you want it to do?
Foam cannon, wheel washing, pre wash?

Basically, the foaming action can be handy for spraying directly onto wheels and agitating.

It could rdo a similar job as a snow foam Lance if you had no pressure washer etc but it wouldn’t replace it.

I was considering the small hand held version for wheel cleaning and may still do it in the coming weeks.

padyjoe

Nilfisk C120 with car cleaning nozzle, how close can this go to the bodywork, before it starts stripping the paint or removing lubrication?

Calvin

Got alloys refurbished and resprayed to gloss black there Monday.. should I be taking precautions washing them this weekend? Usually go with a foam cannon and carpro reset mix and then the power hose. Should I just hand wash this weekend or be grand with the usual?

Stallingrad

Calvin wrote: »

Got alloys refurbished and resprayed to gloss black there Monday.. should I be taking precautions washing them this weekend? Usually go with a foam cannon and carpro reset mix and then the power hose. Should I just hand wash this weekend or be grand with the usual?

Never does any harm to let paint cure for as long as possible before doing anything with it. If it was me I would give It a week or two before going at it with chemicals.

dastardly00

Calvin wrote: »

Got alloys refurbished and resprayed to gloss black there Monday.. should I be taking precautions washing them this weekend? Usually go with a foam cannon and carpro reset mix and then the power hose. Should I just hand wash this weekend or be grand with the usual?

I would leave them a few weeks before using any chemicals or a pressure washer on the wheels.

Calvin

Ah, nice one. Thanks lads. Just some surface dirt I wanted to get rid of. Be ok to wash that off with a mitt?

DuckSlice

Its time I think for me to clay my car, the boot lid is covered in grime and tar so needs to be done.

My normal wash routine is
Wheels
snow-foam & rinse
wash with Carpro Hydro2 foam
Dry car
Tyre gunk

For clay bar, do i do the following:
Wheels
snow-foam & rinse
wash with Auto-shampoo
De-tar
Fallout remover
Clay car
wash with Carpro Hydro2 foam
Dry car
Tyre gunk

Hebegeebee

After the snow foam, I’d personally go straight to the decon stages without doing a wash.
Depending on the tar remover you’re using you might need to dry the car before you apply that - some won’t work well with a wet car. When the tar remover has worked, rinse off.
As with the tar remover above, you might need to dry the car before you apply the fallout remover. Let that do it’s thing and rinse.
Then I’d wash and see how it all looks. You might need to repeat one or both of the above again if there are some tar/fallout remaining.
Once it’s clean, then move on to the claying step and once that’s done, then wash as per the rest of your steps.

MetzgerMeister

Hebegeebee wrote: »

After the snow foam, I’d personally go straight to the decon stages without doing a wash.

That's all well and good if you plan to rinse the tar remover and/or iron remover off. If you have agitate then you're rubbing dirt and grit all over the paint, especially along the bottom half of the car.

DuckSlice

MetzgerMeister wrote: »

That's all well and good if you plan to rinse the tar remover and/or iron remover off. If you have agitate then you're rubbing dirt and grit all over the paint, especially along the bottom half of the car.

Thats a good point, the car will still be dirty after the snowfoam.

Hebegeebee

Fair enough but I never do that. Why would you want to agitate the tar remover or fallout remover?? Apply enough and they’ll both do their thing without you having to touch the paint.

PsychoPete

If your using the solvent tar removers they'll dry in so you'll have to agitate which is perfectly fine to do. I think the first step should be washing the car before moving onto decontamination

PsychoPete

Anyone recommend somewhere to buy bulk general microfiber cloths?

Stallingrad

PsychoPete wrote: »

Anyone recommend somewhere to buy bulk general microfiber cloths?

If in no hurry then Aliexpress is hard to beat.

Jim_Hodge

PsychoPete wrote: »

Anyone recommend somewhere to buy bulk general microfiber cloths?

Amazon do lots of 10, 25, & 50.

Dilbert75

Question: my son has a 06 A3 in red. There's a load of small white spots on the roof in particular. They don't feel like contamination/paint - even a fingernail doesn't catch on them, nor can I feel them with my fingertip - so what are they and how can they be removed?

PsychoPete

Looks like that roof was painted pretty badly and the clear coat is peeling