Detailing chat

high horse

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/118953657#Comment_118953657

The contact address on the website is a private residence. Has anyone collected any purchases instead of delivery?

It would be handy for me to collect from Ballincollig if I wanted something but didn't want to wait for delivery

PsychoPete

There is a collection option in the website I think, he does local deliveries around Cork outside of the usual courier services but you could just contact him

HBC08

First off I don't know much about detailing and am not interested in doing it myself,have a bad back injury and I can't even wash the car by myself at the moment.

I have swirl marks all over my car (probably there before I bought it and not very noticeable but annoying to me)

A detailer I brought it to has offered to cut the car and then polish it up for €350.Does this sound right?

markc1184

Anyone got any tips for removing adhesive residue after removing a wrap? We are in the middle of removing the wrap from our work truck and although the wrap itself is mostly coming off without issue, the residue left behind is a right pain. We have used Reflect Autocares tar and glue remover on it but it isn't really helping.

PsychoPete

Hg sticker remover should do the job

kmart6

Hi folks - Looking for a bit of help, noticed a weird stain/mark on my car yesterday after it being parked up for a few hours and have no idea what it is. Pictures attached are the best I could get with reflections. Was much more oily yesterday, washed it with some soap which removed the heavy part of it but there is some residue remaining. Any ideas what the best way to remove it would be? Thought this would be the best place for this due to activity rather than a new thread.

Thanks!

Cass

You don't know what caused it? Is it "soft"? As in can you move/manipulate it with your finger or is it hard like a glue?

If its an oil/grease based stain, and the removal of some of it with soapy water might suggest it is, then fairy liquid or some other household degreaser would work. When I say household I mean dish soap like Fairy Liquid. However use a high amount of of it and have the water as hot as can be safely used (not boiling).

Grease, as you know from cleaning the delph, doesn't come off easily and tends to soften and get spread around so you need plenty of hot water and fairy liquid is a good degreaser, its why it cleans your dishes so well. Just make sure to do it out of direct sunlight and on cool bodywork.

Alternatively, if you have it, use something non abrasive like a bug and grime remover. Auto Finesse Citrus, or the likes. Spray it on, not in direct sunlight and make sure the bodywork is cool to the touch, and let it sit for a few minutes. Then wipe with a clean microfire, and wash the area thoroughly after. Use it on a small area first, to see that it works and doesn't make matters worse.

If that fails move onto something a little "harsher" like a tar remover. Vasco or similar under the same conditions as above.

Without knowing exactly what it is its hard to narrow down a specific chemical for cleaning.

kmart6

Yeah no idea what caused it. Drove out of Dublin yesterday evening for an hour or so on the motorway to visit family. When I parked at their place there was nothing noticeable on the car. Drove to dinner and noticed it then when we got back. Car was parked next to a river with a walkway which makes it even stranger. Didn't notice anything splash onto it from the road or from the back of anything in front of me.

Can't move or manipulate it. Seems just be there, know that isn't the clearest description but not sure how else to describe it.

I'll give it another go with Fairy tomorrow, more concentrated and hotter water to see if that makes a difference. If not I'll move through the other suggestions.

Cass

IF all the cleaning steps fail you may have to resort to compounding. Have you got the tools for that?

Titzon Toast

I've had a five gallon drum of Snowfoam sitting in my shed for over two years now.

I bought an attachment from LIDL yesterday for €15 and it worked a treat. So much fun to use.

https://i.imgur.com/zjuPTLU.jpeg

kmart6

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119282595#Comment_119282595

So the degreaser didn't work. Really seems like whatever it is has penetrated the paint so not sure if the tar remover will have an impact on it.

Cass

Not to be overly pedantic but it won't have penetrated the paint. Your car will have a layer of clear coat or laquer. All contaminants will sit on this layer. The trick is to find what chemical removes them without damaging the clear coat.

I suggested starting with the degreaser because its the most subtle of methods. In other words unless you use a brillo pad you really cannot do any harm with it.

Now the next step is to move up to something a little more aggressive. Bug and grime removers break down contaminants to make them easier to wash away. I think I mentioned it above but the likes of Finesse bug and grime remover or any similar product should be tried next.

If that fails then move onto the tar remover. The tar remover, such as Vasco, will break down any oil based product and dissolve it wiithout causing any damage to the clear coat ("paintwork").

You could skip the bug/grime remover and move directly to the tar remover as any such product for cars will be safe. I only suggest the bug/grime remover as they are usually fast acting and easy to use. Some tar removers require a "sitting" time. They must be allowed to sit on the car for a minimum of 30 to 45 minutes to work and it must be in the shade with no direct sunlight (otherwise the product won't work and it'll bake onto the clear coat).

Scrubbing should never be used on cleaning cars. There is a multitude of products out there for any purpose you may need it for and the chemicals do the work. Any scrubing can result in damage to the clear coat, even if its "only" light abrasive marks in the clear coat. You don't want this so best to avoid anything that can cause it.

Always use the appropriate product with a microfibre cloth, plenty of water and nothing else. No sponges, brushes or anything abrasive.

I'm not sure of your "set up". In other words I don't know what products you have and so I may be telling you to use products/techniques that you have to keep going out to the shops to get rather than having them to hand, so apologies in advance for that.

Cass

By the way, is the area "rough" to the touch?

My concern, and I only mention it to cover all bases rather than trying to frighten you with specualtion, is that something was spilled or poured onto the bonnet and has had a corrosive effect which ahs damaged the clear coat, in which case you're not dealing with a contaminant, but actual damage and that is a whole other ball of wax.

Its why I asked above if the mark can be manipulated or if there was any progress in removing it. Any hint that it can be removed is good, anything else means you may have a bigger problem.

kmart6

No by all means be pedantic on it, fully understand I may be overstating it. Appreciate the help here and how it's hard to advise without seeing it etc.

So the degreaser I got and used was the Auto Finesse Citrus and made no difference to it at all. I have nothing to hand per se, usually just a two bucket guy with CarPro products and mitts/towels/microfibres.

The area isn't rough to touch, no difference between it and the paint beside it, all smooth. Which is why I went with 'penetrated'. Can't be manipulated whatever it is.

If the clear coat is damaged what is the solution?

Cass

The Auto Finesse is the bug/grime remover so if you've used that they the next stage is a tar remover. I always recommend Vasco. Its takes a little while for it to work but it'll remove everything and do absolutely no damage to bodywork. You don't even need to wipe away, simply wash/rinse off. It does all the work.

Failing that, or even if you believe it won't work, you could move onto compounding. You want to "peel away" a bit of the clear coat. This can be done with a dual action polisher, the appropriate compound, and a little time and patience.

As with anything, and in keeping with my previous advice, start slow and low. In other words don't rush in with a hard pad, and 400 grit cutting compound. Use a soft to medium pad, barest of pressure, medium speed on the polisher, and a gentle compound. Something like Megauirs ultimate compound. Its really only for light swirls and is as gentle a start as you might get. If that fails move onto something like 2000 to 2500. If this gives no results then use a more agressive cutting compound, perhaps Menzerna 1,000. Keep going till you find the right combination of pad and product.

Work in small areas at a time, don't try do the entire thing in one go. Also try start in an inconspicuous area first. That will be hard given the marks location, but best not to start in the middle until you find the right combination.

Have you got a polisher or access to one?

You'll need to follow this up, assuming it works, with a finishing compound and polish.

kmart6

So I picked up the Vasco last Tuesday. When I got to the shop I was picking it up from I took a look at the car and it really seemed like the mark/stain was gone but couldn't be sure as was a layer of dust on the car. Thought it was a bit strange, hadn't done anything since the bug remover which hadn't removed it. Rinsed the car on Wednesday and the stain was definitely gone. Applied the Vasco anyway and rewashed it again yesterday and it's all gone.

Strange how it just disappeared after the degreaser not doing it but I'll take it.

Thanks for all the advice!

samsx

Anyone got a Wilks USA power washer RX525i? Need help with connection if anyone has experience, connection to lance is M22 14 but it's the connection to the unit that has me stumped...

PsychoPete

If anyone is interested Lidl have 2 litre pressure sprayers in next weekend for €3

DaveyDave

Got some Bilt Hamber stuff in Mick's Garage when some of the other detailing websites were out of stock of what I needed. Got some Auto Glym glass polish to apply manually, it seems to be ok to substitute for a clay bar as mine is finished. Not looking to actually get a polish on the glass just remove some stubborn grit.

rodge123

Thinking of picking up a dual action polisher…the A6 is three years old now and figure it could do with a polish. I’ve been snow foaming, two bucket wash, decontamination and waxing by hand in that time.

Any tips on a good kit to get? Can you get ones that take different size pads for larger and smaller areas of car?

See the Maguires MT320 popping up a lot online, any good?

PsychoPete

You can just change the backing plate to use different size pads, that's what I used to do but I bought a shinemate mini rotary polisher as it's so much easier than swapping backing plates on the bigger polisher. The likes of a das6 pro plus is a good starter polisher, this looks very similar to it

https://ocddetailing.ie/product/ocd-detailing-car-polishing-kit/#tab-specification

TheShepard

Hey guys, new to the forum and I just want some simple steps to detail my car if anyone could kindly point me in the right direction?

I have a Karcher k4 power washer and the foam bottle attachment and it works a treat.

I currently use Autoglym polar blast and I'm fairly happy with it but I just want to get to actually detailing the car now.

I have bought a cheap polisher (challenger from Argos) and that's about it. I haven't used it yet but I'm wondering what steps to take after washing and drying the car.

hoodie6029

Wash and dry. Tar removal next. Then clay bar the car. The Meguairs kit is good.

You can use the machine on it then. Is it a dual action polisher?

there’s an old detailing world thread on a Bora that gives huge detail on every step of detailing. I’ll try to dig it up.

Cass

Many others will be far more knowledgeable than I and any products I mention are simply ones I use rather than a recommendation over any other product.

I just went through this process with my Sister's car (new to her).

I first wash the car using polar blast or bilt hamber pre-wash to help loosen dirt build build up. Once it's been soaking for about ten minutes I rinse off. I don't dry the car but rather leave it sit for a little to allow a certain amount of "air drying" as the foam sticks better to a mostly dry body.

I then move onto handwashing. I use two buckets ( one for wash, and the other for rinsing the wash pads). I foam the car using a wash foam such as autoglym polar wash, ADBL, etc. I only use microfibre or wool MIT's. Once washed I rinse off and dry using a high quality microfibre towel.

I the use a tar remover. My go to product is Vasco. Slow working but excellent product and removes other fouling in the body work. Once it's been left sit for a couple of hours (garaged or in the shade, never direct sun) I simply power wash the car.

I dry the car and repeat the process except this time I use an iron remover such as ADBL vampire, bilt hamber, autoglym magna, etc. I spray every square inch if the bodywork from sills to roof ( not windows). Again leave it for about ten to fifteen minutes and power hose clean. I also treat the wheels as this stage with bilt hamber wheel cleaner, ADBL rubber treatment, and wash off at the same time as the bodywork. If there are remaining spots I agitate or repeat the spraying step.

Helpful tip, have a separate mit solely for the wheels and never use the wheel mit in the body or body MIT's on the wheels. You don't want transfer.

Once I'm happy the bodywork is decontaminated I give it one final handwash and dry.

I then move to clay barring. I clay bar everything, including the windows. I use megauirs clay bar and lube. Dry each section as you do it so it doesn't dry into the body work.

Once all that is done then, and only then, do I consider machine work. Any attempt to do paint correction and/or polishing with a DA machine with any contamination still on the body work will work that contamination with the machine and may actually cause more harm than good so the prep work to get to the machining stage is vital imo.

As for the machine work. Cannot really tell you too much. I'm no expert and each person has their own technique not to mention depending on the condition of the bodywork it may need anything from a simple polish to a 3 stage paint correction and finish. Various pads (soft, medium and hard) , variety of products (I prefer Menzerna), and go slow with constant pressure. Don't start with a hard pad and heavy cut compound. Easy to repeat a step with a slightly more aggresive combo than go at it hell for leather and do no harm. Work in small areas and if unsure start somewhere inconspicuous to begin with. For example I'd "break" the bonnet into four or six sections and work each section before moving to the next. Never over extend yourself. You want constant pressure on the machine so don't reach too far causing a variation in pressure hence change in result.

hoodie6029

That’s great detail Cass. Very thorough.

Here is the old detailing world thread, still relevant though.

https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/threads/bora-project-completed-the-full-story-lots-of-pics-and-text.43269/

here is it on the internet archive if the pics don’t show up for you.

http://web.archive.org/web/20130128220416/http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=43269

Cass

That's a pretty good and very detailed description of a serious detailing.

One thing, and it's more a question to everyone than a criticism or "rebuke". Why or how many go straight from wash to clay bar?

I always, at least with previously non detailed cars, go from wash to decontamination. That means de-taring, de-iron, then another wash and finally onto clay bar. I find this way that the clay bar work is so much easier and the de-tar/de-iron steps remove so much more than the claying alone, also without ruining the clay bar.

PS - good see someone else (in the article) do the arches. Only done mine, again, the other day before fitting new tyres. A pet hate is dirty arches but the hassle of keeping them clean can break your heart.

PsychoPete

I don't wash the car first, I cover it in vasco, rinse,contact wash then clay it

Cass

The reason I prefer to wash first is to take the heavy soiling off then apply decontamination treatment to make sure it's making good contact with the bodywork.

Nothing worse than treating and going to wash to find spots under heavy soiling that have not been treated.

The Vasco is excellent though and I don't doubt it'd work well enough through heavy soiling.

burger1979

Hi folks,

So I'm here to look for feedback/tips/advice etc on going forward on washing my car (Tesla Model 3). First off I bought a beginners kit from OCD Detailing, (https://ocddetailing.ie/product/ocd-detailing-maintenance-kit/). I had asked Peter if it was good beginner kit and he said it was, although my car has been ceramic coated, so i got the ceramic QD swapped out for a spray on wax. And here are the results from my first washing of the car:

Method was the following:

1. Hosed the car lightly
2. Snow foam and let that sit for 5 mins
3. Pressure wash the car down, light setting.
4. Snow foam again, again let sit for 5 mins.
5. Pressure wash the car down, light setting.
6. Wheel covers removed, wheels cleaned with wheel cleaner and also used the cleaner on the covers. Hosed them down.
7. 2 bucket method wash, mitt, car shampoo. I used 2 no bucket loads for the whole car.
8. Hosed down the car, and used towels to dry the car. 2no towels used, first one to get most of the water off, the 2nd to get remainder.
9. Bug remover used on front bumper, bonnet, side wings etc. Then also tar remover used on the doors, lower sills, around wheel arches etc. Let them sit for a few minutes and then hosed down. Car dried again where needed.
10. Glass cleaner used on all exterior glass, so sprayed on, cleaned and then used another MF cloth to buff.

Spray on wax put on the body work, with MF. Then buffed the body work with another MF.

So the results are above. So first off the method used above, any advice on what i did, wrongly or rightly?? ( i didnt use any of the tire cleaner/finisher just yet).

With the tar remover is there any need to use a clay bar or some more of any contaminant removal products?

I want to go and polish the car next, just by hand and some MF cloths, what product should i use and method? I dont have a machine polisher or pads or anything like that......................just yet!!!!

Witht he glass cleaner is there any need to polish the glass as well? the rain/water that is on the windscreen just rolls off when driving, and no streaks on it when windsceen wipers are in use. Can i clean the wiper blades with the same glass cleaner? I've put Autoglym windscreen fluid into the car, diluted, is there any better or any advice on that?

I enjoyed the few hours getting it clean, although after a few days of driving it, there is some muck/road dirt on it again......so back at it again next week me thinks. Thanks for reading.

PsychoPete

That ADBL tyre cleaner is a really excellent product. If you have your car ceramic coated then I won't clay bar it personally, its probably going to damage the coating. Polishing or waxing isn't recommended on a ceramic coating as it can hinder the coatings performance but the Gyeon wax can be used on top of the Gyeon ceramic coatings but I use Gtechniq C2 V3 to top up protection on a ceramic coating

burger1979

Thanks for the reply PsychoPete. My fingers got the better of my brain, the car has not be detailed or ceramic coated in any way. I've been looking at clay bar and I think I might introduce that next into the process. I will do a bit more research on the polishing etc.

PsychoPete

If that's the case then fire away with claying and polishing. I go with tar remover, fallout remover, clay, polish then wax

burger1979

So again went at the car, cleaning it. Method was as follows: pre wash snow foam, wheels (fallout remover, arches got snow foam directly into them), snow foam, 2 bucket wash, tar remover, fallout remover, clay bar (on glass and body), glass clean, polish, wax,

Snow Foam - ADBL YETI

ADBL Snowball Shampoo

ADBL Vampire liquid - fallout remover

Brick Port Tar Remover

ADBL Hybrid Glass Cleaner

ADBL Tire and Rubber cleaner

ADBL Liquid Spray Wax

Autoglym Super Resin Polish

Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection.

Bilt Hamber Clay Bar with ADBL Clay lube

The autoglym polish and gloss, my dad had left over and wasnt using it so that why i used that. polish was hand applied using mf cloth and buffed off. I actually like seeing it cure/dry, because it shows you if you have missed anywhere. The wax went on after that, and then the gloss. And the results of all this work....

Please ignore the tyres, i didnt dress them. So a few things of note. I did everything except for the gloss in one day (school run to be done). So the next day i went and did the gloss. The car had been driven, and some dirt was on the wheel arches (no pics taken), but i got the hose out and lightly hosed the wheel arches down, then got the mitt and with some more water, wiped them down, then gentle hose down again. Is that a decent way of doing it? Car was wet from the hose, so dried it out and then went on with the gloss. Left that for about 30/40 mins, sun was out and although weak didnt want to leave it too long in the sun. Buffed the dried gloss off and hey presto, the results are above.

Some questions though:

1. If you have to split the washing/coating process into 2 days, at what stage is it best to do this?
2. What do you have to do to the car to prep it for gloss coating, if everything up to waxing was done the day before?
3. The liquid wax I'm not too sure on, i was thinking of getting something else, preferably one that 'dries', and leaves a clay like residue on the paint (a bit like the polish i used) so then i can buff it off, and something that was hard wearing.
4. anyone any opinion on the Autoglym products that i used? or recommend something like them to use in future? I dont have an electric polisher and prefer the hand method for now.
5. After claying and cleaning the glass, can i use a polish on it or a gloss to add some additional protection or for rainwater to come off easily? the ADBL stuff worked well last time with the rain, just wondering if there is anything else that can be done to help it?
6. So in some of the pics above they are of the around the wheel arches, with some white spots on them. These are not rough to touch, or bumpy, and dont seem like scratches (i cant get the corner of a fingernail into them), so what do people think that they are? and how to get rid of them? It was a little bit heartbreaking to see them after the time i've spent on the car. (and yes i know some people spend days on cars)
7. Opinions on how car turned out in general. Any tips/advice on method, products used etc.??
8. Finally, I plan on doing this type of wash again in about a months time or even a little later. But if i wanted to wash the car for a maintenance wash, up to what stage in my process above do i do? Or what is carried out.

Thanks for reading, apologies for the long post, bit of a brain dump in the post and trying to get everything down.

DaveyDave

Any tips for glass cleaning products? I use AutoGlym Fast Glass and a microfiber mitt and buff with a microfiber towel. Not sure if it's the cleaning product being old or the cloth not being a waffle weave but the glass cleaner seems to leave streaks in the glass, almost like the product dried in. I believe my technique is fine just not good products, the glass definitely isn't crystal clear and this is doing the glass after washing the car.

PsychoPete

1. I'd probably wash it late in the evening then apply protection the morning
2. If I'm just waxing the car then I'll wash it,dry it then apply a wax. If I'm applying a coating I'll machine polish it,ipa wipe down then apply the coating
3. The ADBL spray wax is excellent, I prefer using something like that as its quicker to apply. Wax is kind of old technology these days when it comes to paint protection there's some excellent products that are better than wax and take less time to apply
4. Super resin polish is a good product to freshen up paint work, never used extra gloss protection. If you are looking for a good bang for buck wax then bilt hamber double speed is excellent or soft99 fusso. I'd use up a product before buying a replacement as you can go down a rabbit hole of detailing products
5. Autoglym have a glass polish, I use soft99 glaco on my glass which lasts a good few months
6. To me that looks like stone chips which you can't do much about them, don't try to chase perfection as you'll drive yourself mad
7. Turned out very well. I normally clean wheels,snow foam,rinse,contact wash, dry, tar remover,fallout remover paint and wheels,clay, polish, wax, glass and dress tyres but do what ever works for you
8. I'd wash it as normal and just dry it maybe a quick going over with some quick detailer

rodge123

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119936726#Comment_119936726

I used to use GTechniue C2V3 spray instead of wax, still have a good bit left that I need to use up. Great shine off it and beading on it and usually lasts about 2 or 3 months.

I then switched to a liquid wax called collinite 845. Brilliant shine and beading off it and lasts 3 or 4 months. Apply by hand with a maguires microfibre pad and buff off after 5 - 10 mins. Apply very sparingly, less is more. Bonus is that’s its very cheap and will last you years.

burger1979

Thanks for the replies folks. I'll go again at it and do the full wash in probably another months time. @PsychoPete do you use a quick detailer, and if so any particular one?

PsychoPete

I do, I use them maybe after every second wash if I've the time. I use ADBL ceramic quick detailer, gyeon ceramic detailer and autoglym rapid detailer but there's so many excellent products out there these you can't really go wrong

rodge123

Included compound/polish in full detail for first time with the Maguires MT320 I bought recently.

Done in bits over a few days.

1. Wheels brake dust (Bilt Hamber auto wheel)
2. Power rinse car and wheels
3. Snow foam everything and rinse (Bilt Hamber auto foam)
4. Clean wheels (Bilt Hamber auto wash)
5. Clean tyres (Bilt Hamber auto wash and Bilt Hamber Surfex HD
6. 2 bucket wash (Bilt Hamber auto wash)
7. Power rinse everything
8. Towel dry paintwork
9. Detar (Carpro tar x) and power hose and towel dry
10. Decontaminate (Bilt Hamber korisol) and power hose off
11. Clay bar (Bilt Hamber) and power rinse
12. Towel Dry
13. Machine compound (maguires ultimate compound)
14. Machine polish (maguires ultimate polish)
15. Machine wax (maguires ultimate wax)
16. Dress tyres (Carpro Perl)
17. Some GTechnique C2V3 on glass

leupold90

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/119936823#Comment_119936823

A tip I was given was to go over the glass again with QD. Usually gives me clear glass. Most AG Fast Glass is a decent product. Usually when I get problems with streaking it's cloth's fault.

PsychoPete

A good bargain if anyone uses these scrub pads. I find them absolutely excellent for cleaning interior plastics, steerings etc. Normally about €4 each here. WOWO in the UK have a deal of 5 for 5 pound

https://wo-wo.co.uk/collections/wo-wo-car-detailing-products/products/wo-wo-interior-cleaning-pad-5pc-set

slave1

Folks, what do ye think of the ONR and grid sponge method, caught my eye recently

sligopaul

Folks , Anyone still on here from DND detailing in Cork. I see they have sponsored Sams motor and machine for a detailing session on his L322

Well done to them

DelBoy Trotter

I’m thinking about buying a vet dry vac to clean the inside of my car, and for the odd stain on the carpet in the house too. Any recommendations on machines to buy or avoid?

PsychoPete

Bissell spot clean is ideal for cars as it has a small head which is perfect for car carpets. Can pick them up on amazon for around 150

DaveyDave

I used a Bissell Spot Clean Pro. The inside of my car was always tidy and every few months I'd spray interior cleaner and buff with a sponge so the car wasn't filthy. No visible stains or anything, this just goes to show how dirty it can get deep down.

Just don't be afraid to get a good wet spray on and do 2-3 slow dry passes to make sure it's not soaking. I didn't use enough spray the first time compared to when I took my time with the carpet on the stairs.

Car vs stairs:

Titzon Toast

Has anyone here ever used a denim cutting pad to remove orange peel?

I've ordered one online, they're supposed be very effective but extremely aggressive. You have to be really careful with them, especially around edges.

Wizard!

Hi all.

Is there anyone who can repair aluminium wheels from heavy scratch?

I parked the car very close to the side walk, and scratched both front and rear on the left side. You can feel it easily on your fingers, not just lines...

Any idea of the cost?

Meath, Dublin, or whatever...

RainInSummer

Anyone using the ceramic snow foams? Are they well regarded?

PsychoPete

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/120272552#Comment_120272552

I use polar seal the odd time in winter, does a perfectly fine job and gives protection for around 2 months. I do prefer Gyeon wet coat or labocosmetica beneficia