Detailing chat

MetzgerMeister

That crowd detailing bed or whatever they're called do as far as I know.

Curran

Shaunie; it might be worth your while checking over on Autostadt

alanhiggyno1

Curran wrote: »

Chipex or Dr. Colorchip are the two big names in paint kits - with Dr. Colorchip perhaps pipping Chipex on people's favourites.

Are you planning on doing machine correction also? As this would ideally need to be done to finish down any painting, for a better finish; otherwise you will be left with a finish that is proud of the surface.

Essentially you will need to prepare the surface well, with a wipedown, fill the scratch, sand it back, and machine polish to a good finish.
If you are not considering machine polishing, you might be left with blobs of paint, which may or may not be better in appearance that a white scratch....wont be as obvious for sure, but you'll know its there and it will forever stand out.

If you are willing to invest some time and money, you should be able to make a very good bash at it, and give the car a good turn around.

what should i fill he scratches with.i have meguairs compound which is a mighty thing.i have the 1500 sand paper and will order the paint for it..just need a polisher.what would u recommend

Gavman84

ShaunieVW wrote: »

Lads, is there anywhere in Ireland that sells DA's or rotarys since CC went?

D and D in cork sell them now.
http://dnddetailing.ie/product-category/polishing-machines-accessories/

CrowdedHouse

Expert Folks - this has probably been asked a hundred times but what's the best nano sealant for longevity? (I will be getting a new car in a few weeks and hope to get it treated/detailed while it's new)

Curran

Something that is often overlooked with going for a nano protection product, is the products that should be used to maintain it. Correct shampoos, snowfoams, and quick detailers, etc. Using traditional ones may effect the coating and effect durability, beading and appearance.

CrowdedHouse

Thanks Curran - I guess I won't bother with it so

vectra

CrowdedHouse wrote: »

Thanks Curran - I guess I won't bother with it so

I would say Wolfs products as I have used them before.
Simple to wash
Simple to maintain.

Prep
Seal
Use Nano Bath to wash
and their QD to keep it topped up occasionally.

There are others but I have no experience of them.

Newtown90

Bought some "Gtechniq G1 + G2 Clear Vision Smart Glass Max Durability Rain Repellant" last night, looking forward to getting it to try it out and see if its as good as it seems on youtube.

Has anyone any tips for applying?

I was going to clay the windscreen before applying?

MetzgerMeister

It's superb. I've had it on my car for the last 2 years along with every other Gtechniq product imaginable :pac:

Claying would be a good idea. What you could do if you're near a detailer is get them to polish the glass with Cerium Oxide and a Rayon pad or even just glass polish in order to remove any water etching before application.

Removing the residue can be a bit of a PITA as you have to apply the reside remover with one hand and wipe with the other before it dries. Also, 1 coat will do for the side and rear windows but the front requires 3 coats. This doesn't mean apply and remove x 3 as you would think but once you have coated the whole windscreen, start from the beginning again. It seems weird but that's 3 coats in the mind of Gtechniq and it works!

Newtown90

I have some Autoglym glass polish so I might put that on with the DA before hand so!

Only 2 small bottles so lets hope I dont spill any :eek:

markc1184

I've somehow managed to get a crack in the bottom of the bottle off my snow foam lance. If someone could point me in the direction of were I might be able to pick up a replacement I'd appreciate it.

Curran

markc1184 wrote: »

I've somehow managed to get a crack in the bottom of the bottle off my snow foam lance. If someone could point me in the direction of were I might be able to pick up a replacement I'd appreciate it.

A 500ml fizzy drinks bottle should fit...get ye out of a hole!

Hal1

Bottle of tk be grand .

ratracer

Lads,

Will kids hand prints polish out of black paint easily enough?

Cheers

Curran

The only guaranteed way is to machine polish them.
Sometimes they can be removed by a hand polish, and sometimes it will appear as though the hand polish has done the job only to re-appear once the hand polish has washed out of the paintwork.

Gordy6040

Orchard Autocare Speed Seal

Has anyone used this?
I have a basket ready to go with some clay, an applicator pad and some CG Butter Wet Wax.

Speed Seal caught my eye, the bit in the description about liking a clean car but being short on time is really selling it to me. What do you reckon the results would be like V the the CG wax?

randy hickey

markc1184 wrote: »

I've somehow managed to get a crack in the bottom of the bottle off my snow foam lance. If someone could point me in the direction of were I might be able to pick up a replacement I'd appreciate it.

If you want a HDPE bottle that's almost identical to the one that comes with the PA lance, then for around €2 you can pick up one of these spray bottles from Musgraves;

[IMG][/img]

I've one on my lance for a good while now and she's still going strong.
For that price you can pick up a couple and keep them as spares.

nd

Long but interesting video. Makes it look easy!

myshirt

Randy, you are a great man for good finds and good bargains. Fair play.

LawlessBoy

Didnt want to make a new thread for this, and I'll probably have some of you lads pulling your hair out reading this.

What's the best cloth to rub a car down with after washing. The wash would just be a rinse,snowfoam,rinse as the car doesn't get to dirty. But did it like this yesterday and the new car is black when it dried there were water marks everywhere! You wouldn't even think I washed it.

Anything easy enough that I can do to stop this?

Theboinkmaster

LawlessBoy wrote: »

Didnt want to make a new thread for this, and I'll probably have some of you lads pulling your hair out reading this.

What's the best cloth to rub a car down with after washing. The wash would just be a rinse,snowfoam,rinse as the car doesn't get to dirty. But did it like this yesterday and the new car is black when it dried there were water marks everywhere! You wouldn't even think I washed it.

Anything easy enough that I can do to stop this?

Get this:

http://www.detailingshed.com/drying-towels-microfibres/14-microfiber-madness-dry-me-crazy.html

I have it and find it brilliant.

nd

So the ripple effect here. Is that is what is called orangepeel? Or is it something else? And would any cut polish make any difference?

vectra

LawlessBoy wrote: »

Didnt want to make a new thread for this, and I'll probably have some of you lads pulling your hair out reading this.

What's the best cloth to rub a car down with after washing. The wash would just be a rinse,snowfoam,rinse as the car doesn't get to dirty. But did it like this yesterday and the new car is black when it dried there were water marks everywhere! You wouldn't even think I washed it.

Anything easy enough that I can do to stop this?

Theboinkmaster wrote: »

Get this:

http://www.detailingshed.com/drying-towels-microfibres/14-microfiber-madness-dry-me-crazy.html

I have it and find it brilliant.

That towel is excellent.
But I am afraid your wash routine will destroy a black car.
You really do need to wash it properly.

quadrifoglio verde

nd wrote: »

So the ripple effect here. Is that is what is called orangepeel? Or is it something else? And would any cut polish make any difference?

Yep that's orange peel but doesn't look too bad although its always difficult to photo. Ian in elite did a job on 166mans 166.
It came out stunning, it had to be wet sanded out.
Might be worth messaging 166man to see if you can see it, the photos don't do it justice.

Curran

nd wrote: »

So the ripple effect here. Is that is what is called orangepeel? Or is it something else? And would any cut polish make any difference?

Yeah, that's orange peel.
The problem is with polishing, unless its done right, wont have any major effect on it. If you use the traditional method of foam pads and cutting polish, they are spongy and flexible and will form to the surface, so essentially you are polishing the peaks and the hollows of the orange peel. Hence, wet sanding is usually the pro detailer way to approach it. This method, means that the peaks are leveled down to the depth of the hollows, and then the whole surface is polished to a mirror finish.

There are ways to do it on a machine, but they can be risky. CarPro make pads that replicate 2000 and 3000 grit sandpaper; the Denim and Velvet pads. There is little or no flexibility / sponginess, and thus the peaks are more heavily worked than the hollows. It is advised that you use a paint depth gauge when using them. Though, being very careful it is possible to improve the finish greatly without one. If you check how much you've removed regularly, you can see how much you need to work the surface. A light pass will flatten the peaks slightly, and thus some of the paintwork will dull down, there will be spots that look like the paint finish prior to the first pass, these are the hollows...it will appear like the image below. Working slowly and inspecting regularly, eventually all the paint will appear dull; at this point the paintwork is flat, and orange peel has been removed. You'll need to cut and jewel the finish to its original (actually much better) shine.
Again, if its being performed by someone impatient, it will result in disaster.

LawlessBoy

vectra wrote: »

That towel is excellent.
But I am afraid your wash routine will destroy a black car.
You really do need to wash it properly.

Is it going to be some crazy 4 hour wash job though:pac::D

Its a 99 civic paint is actually in good condition on it. What would you recommend.

Curran

Two buckets, a good quality microfiber wash mitt, pH neutral shampoo, and that recommended drying towel....no more than an hour to do a good job, that includes taking out the gear and putting it away!

Interslice

Being slowly reading up on all this detailing craic. Had some turtle wax stuff and micro fibres taking up some space in the shed so have started with them. Someone on a barstool said that turtle wax will fade the paint?? Any truth in that.

I have only used the zip wax, the wash and wax in one. Comes out alright after a rub when it's dry. There is a bottle of high gloss there too. Would it be OK to put it on over the zip wax or would it be better to put it on a clean car? The high gloss bottle says on it to use it with high gloss shampoo.

Curran

The Zip Wash and Wax wont fade the paint. Poor wash techniques will; sponges, not using 2 buckets, etc. Its not the best shampoo, but use the rest as it will do no harm.

CianRyan

Curran, I was reading your post about wet sanding last night I get that it's a long, difficult process, is it something you think an armature could tackle?
Panels on my Mazda are barely faded, they'll come up niice with a detail but fade within a week, oxidated I guess?
Worth a shot?

Curran

Compounding and wetsanding are essentially the same thing; wet sanding will just remove more, and quicker than compounding.

So you are not benefiting anymore by wet sanding; you're jist removing more paintwork, leave less to shine it up regularly.

What are you applying to the paintwork, post polishing, to help delay the onset of oxidation again?

CianRyan

Curran wrote: »

Compounding and wetsanding are essentially the same thing; wet sanding will just remove more, and quicker than compounding.

So you are not benefiting anymore by wet sanding; you're jist removing more paintwork, leave less to shine it up regularly.

What are you applying to the paintwork, post polishing, to help delay the onset of oxidation again?

Pete's 53, generally two coats of it.
The car as a whole will look great for a month afterwards but the rear drives quarter goes dull and cloudy in about a week, if not less. It driver me mad!

I do have thought about just wrapping it but I hate wraps...

Interslice

Curran wrote: »

The Zip Wash and Wax wont fade the paint. Poor wash techniques will; sponges, not using 2 buckets, etc. Its not the best shampoo, but use the rest as it will do no harm.

Grand! Just looking to keep it somewhat protected for a while. Was afraid of it oxidising the paint or something! Have plans to touch up a few rust spots on the paint and then polish the clear coat. Will spend a few quid on better quality products then.

markc1184

Does anyone know were I can pick up a gallon container of Chemical guys Speed Wipe? My last lot I got from Cleancar but that bottle is finished now.

nd

these seem to have it but shipping is expensive

http://www.chemicalguysuk.com/Speed_Wipe_Spray_Wax_p/vintspdwg.htm

Curran

Im sure there'd be an Irish supplier who would get it in for you on their next order!

Noccy_Mondy

Curran wrote:

Im sure there'd be an Irish supplier who would get it in for you on their next order!

Ya, get onto halfords nd, they'd sort you out :pac: :P

bbari

markc1184 wrote: »

Does anyone know were I can pick up a gallon container of Chemical guys Speed Wipe? My last lot I got from Cleancar but that bottle is finished now.

There is this company called detailingshed, they carry a bit of CG range, probably they will be able to source it for you in the large size..

http://goo.gl/th2Gdz

Curran

Noccy_Mondy wrote: »

Ya, get onto halfords nd, they'd sort you out :pac: :P

When did Halford's become Irish owned!! :P
That's the one bbari; couldn't remember the name of it!

bbari

Curran wrote: »

When did Halford's become Irish owned!! :P
That's the one bbari; couldn't remember the name of it!

I hope you won't forget your own name one day

Noccy_Mondy

Curran wrote:

When did Halford's become Irish owned!! That's the one bbari; couldn't remember the name of it!

I've been putting off getting a few bits off you for ages, I promise I'll get to you before the end of summer!

ianobrien

Looking at this forum is getting depressing as I haven't managed to give any of the cars a decent clean, I working up the country and all the cleaning stuff is back in Cork. Even if I brought all the stuff up I'm in an apartment and there is no outside tap!


I could go to the local car wash but having witnessed their action with a brush on a long handle I'd rather have a dirty car.

Foxhole Norman

Lads, what'd be the best thing for getting stained on coolant off bits of the engine bay? A fair bit of it staining the engine since the rad blew months ago and never thought to clean it.

markc1184

Foxhole Norman wrote: »

Lads, what'd be the best thing for getting stained on coolant off bits of the engine bay? A fair bit of it staining the engine since the rad blew months ago and never thought to clean it.

I had a similar problem before and used some engine degreaser and worked it in with a brush then used a steam cleaner to take everything off. Was only on mine for a couple of days though rather than months.

bbari

ianobrien wrote: »

I'm in an apartment and there is no outside tap!
I could go to the local car wash but having witnessed their action with a brush on a long handle I'd rather have a dirty car.

I don't have the driveway facility so I go to the local petrol station with 2 buckets etc and wash it myself.

vectra

bbari wrote: »

I don't have the driveway facility so I go to the local petrol station with 2 buckets etc and wash it myself.

Nor do I.
All of my detailing is done on the street.

ianobrien

bbari wrote: »

I don't have the driveway facility so I go to the local petrol station with 2 buckets etc and wash it myself.

Thanks for that. I'll ask in the local car washes if I can use (and pay obviously) for water and not their chemicals or labour.

bbari

vectra wrote:

Nor do I. All of my detailing is done on the street.

How many times you are told that up the road you can get it washed for €5??

Curran

bbari wrote: »

How many times you are told that up the road you can get it washed for €5??

He's that fella that's up the road! :P