Detailing chat

Danger781

Can't detail this away I reckon



Please excuse my disgraceful alloys :pac:

Curran

Yeah, there's no amount of polishing will change the fact that its a Mini! :pac:

Reckon you'd pick one up hand in a breakers!

Curran

vectra wrote: »

Or the new one here now is
"You wont be washing it when the water charges are in" :pac:

But if they thought about it; paying a 10er for someone to do it for them would pay for enough water to wash your car 3 or 4 times.
Its funny how people think; jezz with the water charges, Ill have to cut back on washing the car at home, but will to go along to the local car wash!
Maths people!! Do the maths!

Hal1

It's alright if you pay a fixed rate though .

Danger781

Curran wrote: »

Reckon you'd pick one up hand in a breakers!

My mechanic is a mini specialist so no hassle with getting one.. my issue is the fact that this happened over night while the car was parked up.. If I was at fault I wouldn't have an issue paying for it :rolleyes:

Special Circumstances

Danger781 wrote: »

My mechanic is a mini specialist so no hassle with getting one.. :rolleyes:

Ballincollig or somewhere else??

Paintwork looks good for something that's in or around the 10 year mark. Keep the plastic on the mirrors and bumpers/arches/sills nice and black and it makes them look a lot newer. Most people can't tell the difference between the different generations.

It's a 04 - 06 model is it?

Danger781

Jesus you know Minis better than I do! :pac: 2005 Mini One

Yeah Ger O'Leary in Ballincollig is the man I'm on about. Sent him a photo there earlier and he said he should have a spare about so I'll pop over once I'm done here in work. Paintwork is in pretty good nick, but the skirting above the wheel arches leaves something to be desired.. One has a deep scratch, the other has white paint scraped across it (Again, happened outside my house over night..) and there's a small enough dent on the drive side of the bonnet as well.

This car is only mine less than a year but I'm hoping to upgrade before my policy renewal in August..

DoctorStrange

Can anyone give me a few pointers / product ideas? This will be my first time doing a proper clean. Plan on doing all the things I've read here, decontamination, clay etc



I'll be using Autoglym Clay / Super Resin Polish kit. (already have two of these kits from a deal in Halfords).

The question I have is what to I apply after the polish, what would suit the car? Car is a silver BMW e46. I don't have access to garage / cover so something like ceramic coating is probably out.

Curran

Well since you will be using the Autoglym Super Resin Polish, the best thing to use with that is a product from AG also, as they will be designed to combo well together. Their Extra Gloss Protection is decent, and looks very good on silver. Two thin coats will work very nicely.

Tip: the Extra Gloss Protection is a liquid, and can be difficult not to drown the applicator or to apply in thin layers. It is easiest applied if sprayed onto the panel and then spread with an applicator. Making sure you dont put too much on means it cures quickly and is also much easier to buff off.

DoctorStrange

Thanks for the advice, I'll try put up some before and afters.

Now I have to convince myself that I need a foam lance

CianRyan

DoctorStrange wrote: »

Thanks for the advice, I'll try put up some before and afters.

Now I have to convince myself that I need a foam lance

I've been using one for about two years.
They're handy but ultimately gimmicky.
No one needs one, unless they're a pro doing loads of cars a day.

So you don't need one but if you want one, they are fairly cheap.

vectra

CianRyan wrote: »

I've been using one for about two years.
They're handy but ultimately gimmicky.
No one needs one, unless they're a pro doing loads of cars a day.

So you don't need one but if you want one, they are fairly cheap.

I would tend to disagree with you there.

CianRyan

vectra wrote: »

I would tend to disagree with you there.

I personally find it no more effective than a good two bucket washer with plenty of rinsing. Yeah, it takes the pain out of it but I often have to get out the micro fiber mit and work the foam anyway so then, what's the point?
I'm not using cheap products either, ice tried every mixture, left it until it's nothing but a ring of foam at the bottom of my car but I don't get a result any better (or often as good as) a good hand wash.

Curran

I think your expectations are a bit too high. There is no such thing as a touchless wash with the weather and road conditions we have here. There is nothing that you'll be able to spray on, rinse off and dry the car. Unfortunately, it's not that easy here; California perhaps!

Using foam keeps all the shut lines nice and clean, softens the dirt on the car and suspends heavy dirt when rinsing down which otherwise would be between your mitt and paintwork. Granted the 2 bucket method and microfiber mitt will do a very good job on an unformed car, but it's all about elminating potential risk of damage with any process involved; de-tarring should be spray on, rinse off for example. No wiping of tar spots as they contain grit.

magnavox

Hi guys,

Few quick questions to ye in the know, I’m looking at doing the few cars in the household in the near future. What I’ve been doing previously is as follows:

Wash
Detar using wd40
Wash
Clay BH
Dry
Polish by hand with SRP
Buff
Seal with EGP
Buff
Then wax with HD Wax and buff.
Finally rain repellent on all windows.

So onto the questions. I know I probably shouldn’t be using WD40 to remove the tar (and it’s also labour intensive) so I’m looking to buy some Tardis. While I’m at it I’ll probably throw in a fallout remover stage probably IronX. When can I buy these? Halfords? Online? They are simply spray on wash off?

Is there any value to buying a cheapo polisher? I’ve seen aldi lidl ones for 20€ and was wondering what they are like. I’d only be using it for working in the SRP and not doing full corrections etc. Basically want to just remove the by hand part which is a hell of a lot of work.

Alloys how do ye seal them up? Know nothing about protecting them any recommendations?

Interior is there anything good for removing stains on seats? Or should I bite the bullet and just send them into a valet for a cheapo interior only? I wouldn’t let them do the exterior.

Snow foam lance? Can a good one be got cheap? Have a power washer with a lance that came with it but it’s useless.

Thanks:D

Sorry about all the questions:o

Mc Love

magnavox wrote: »

Alloys how do ye seal them up? Know nothing about protecting them any recommendations?

CG Wheel Guard is excellent http://www.detailingshed.com/wheels-tyres/18-chemical-guys-wheel-guard.html

Makes washing them effortless every time.

zizou_

Quick question - any recommendations for applicators for applying polish and LSP? Should i use different applicators for each? I was on the detailingshed website and saw these http://www.detailingshed.com/polish/27-chemical-guys-hex-logic-white-hand-applicator.html - no idea if they're suitable or not.

Cheers.

Curran

magnavox wrote: »

I’m looking to buy some Tardis. While I’m at it I’ll probably throw in a fallout remover stage probably IronX. When can I buy these? Halfords? Online? They are simply spray on wash off?

Is there any value to buying a cheapo polisher?

Alloys how do ye seal them up? Know nothing about protecting them any recommendations?

Interior is there anything good for removing stains on seats? Or should I bite the bullet and just send them into a valet for a cheapo interior only? I wouldn’t let them do the exterior.

Snow foam lance? Can a good one be got cheap? Have a power washer with a lance that came with it but it’s useless.

WD40, as you know wouldnt be ideal. You should look at getting a dedicated tar remover. You might get a tar remover in the likes of Halfords, but a fallout remover, is unlikely you will get in any motor factor type shops. You will need to pick it up online.

No there is no real value in the cheap buffers - they will certainly be too awkward to use to apply the polish - it might be of some slight advantage for removal of the polish.

As pointed out Chemical Guys Wheel Guard is very good for the alloys. Easy to use but will need regular application; compared to something like a nano sealant. CarPro DLUX would be a very durable sealant, but it can be a bit more difficult to apply, and prepare the surface for application, but the advantage is that it is good for a year or more.

Chemical Guys Fabric Clean is very good for interior fabrics, but if they are really bad, it might be worth getting someone to do a full job with a wet vac.

Snowfoam lances can be got cheap, but some look the same as the expensive ones, but arent quite the same quality.

zizou_ wrote: »

Quick question - any recommendations for applicators for applying polish and LSP? Should i use different applicators for each? I was on the detailingshed website and saw these http://www.detailingshed.com/polish/27-chemical-guys-hex-logic-white-hand-applicator.html - no idea if they're suitable or not.

The one you have linked is designed for polish application more so than LSP. It can be used for LSP if you wish, but the likes of their Ultra Fine Applicator are far better for applying LSP.

Mc Love

Curran, have you used the wolfs wheel cleaner and seal? Any review?

Curran

Its for use with their Wheel Sealant. Wont be of any great advantage for unprotected wheels. Its to help clean and keep the protection topped up!

vectra

Curran wrote: »

Its for use with their Wheel Sealant. Wont be of any great advantage for unprotected wheels. Its to help clean and keep the protection topped up!

Does their wheel sealant need special care?
Or is it a case of treat and wash as normal?

This is what bugs me with nano products. Normal aftercare goes out the window.

bbari

Curran wrote: »

Its for use with their Wheel Sealant. Wont be of any great advantage for unprotected wheels. Its to help clean and keep the protection topped up!

Agree

Curran

vectra wrote: »

Does their wheel sealant need special care?
Or is it a case of treat and wash as normal?

This is what bugs me with nano products. Normal aftercare goes out the window.

Treat and wash as normal...the coating will last longer with their proper maintenance products; but wont be hugely affected if the coating is cleaned regularly.

Aftercare is normal, just with different products, so the annoying thing is, that you have to purchase all those, and your current arsenal of products is a bit of a loss.

bbari wrote: »

Agree

Couldnt for the life of me remember who had bought it from me and said it wasnt great - had only got the range in at the time, and I was under the impression that it was as it says on the bottle; clean and seal in one...was later made aware that its for their wheel sealant!
Mention it to me the next time, and I'll make sure to remove it from the total, as I mis-lead you on that; my bad!

Pov06

Just bought myself a snow foam lance for my Parkside pressure washer. I reckon I'll have a bit of a snow foam party this weekend :D:D

Hal1

bbari

Curran wrote: »

Couldnt for the life of me remember who had bought it from me and said it wasnt great - had only got the range in at the time, and I was under the impression that it was as it says on the bottle; clean and seal in one...was later made aware that its for their wheel sealant!
Mention it to me the next time, and I'll make sure to remove it from the total, as I mis-lead you on that; my bad!

Thank you Curran

Foxhole Norman

My order from DetailingShed shipped today but it was delivered to the house yesterday, now that's service :pac:

Looking forward to trying out Korrosol on the wheels, have previously only used AutoGlym's and Meguiars Wheel cleaners.

Hal1

Anyone ever tried using steel wool to polish light scratches out of their windscreen? the really fine wool mind.

Curran

No, not sure I would either....cant imagine it would do too much damage though, but since there are dedicated glass polish and pads available, that would be my way to approach it.

Be interested to hear how you get on if you do go ahead with it; Id say it will need some finishing down after??

Hal1

I've seen a vid of someone using it and then he uses rainx and buffs it off. That's all there was to it really. My windscreen looks fine from the outside but when driving in direct sunlight highlights all the stone chips and haziness on it.

Curran

I'd test it on something else first!
You might be left with a very fine haze on the screen that the RainX fills and gives the appearance of being perfect, but you'll be forever re-applying it.

Hal1

It is one of those jobs were it's a hit or miss on making an improvement, but it just sounds like too much of a gamble to risk it. I'm not a gambling man so I'll probably go the cerium oxide route with a buffer on a drill instead. There's minimal abrasion in that process compared to the fine steel wool and is more controlled. So in the meantime if anyone has tried this or is thinking about it let us know how you get on . Thanks for the advice Curran.

Danger781

Bought Halfords screenwash there the other day on impulse. Awful stuff. Seems to have left a residue on my windscreen, and the splashes that land on the side windows / out of range of the wipers end up not going anywhere. In the sun I can see hundreds of dried droplets sitting on the windows.

Foxhole Norman

Just gave the car a quick 10 minute wash before right before the rain hit, that Korrosol is some powerful stuff, left a nice shine too.

Noccy_Mondy

Danger781 wrote:

Bought Halfords screenwash there the other day on impulse. Awful stuff. Seems to have left a residue on my windscreen, and the splashes that land on the side windows / out of range of the wipers end up not going anywhere. In the sun I can see hundreds of dried droplets sitting on the windows.

Really? I find it A1.

zizou_

Any recommendations on where to buy C4 from? Bought it from cleancar before but they seem to be gone now.


Cheers.

Curran

UK suppliers will be the only place you'll get it! You'd get something similar from an Irish supplier - CarPro DLUX is suitable for trims & plastics and works on wheels too!

Spike Witwicky

Anyone here use CG V7? Just got a bottle and found the beading to be, for want of a better word, shite.

Also cap broke on my bottle of Collinite. Was thinking of putting a spray head on it. Any issues with that? Would it be too thick?

punisher5112

Spike Witwicky wrote: »

Anyone here use CG V7? Just got a bottle and found the beading to be, for want of a better word, shite.

Also cap broke on my bottle of Collinite. Was thinking of putting a spray head on it. Any issues with that? Would it be too thick?

Put collinite into a spray bottle in small amounts or what you said.

I put it in a container of hot water so kept it soft and easy to spray on and then apply to paint.

Impossible to do if wax is not heated to make it liquid.

Curran

Have you applied V7 on Collinite? Will work best on Chemical Guys products; but its not one that offers great beading anyways, its more of a gloss enhancer.

Collinite through a trigger - doubt it will work!

vectra

CG V7 is $hite

845 can be sprayed if hot enough.

punisher5112

I heated my colinite up in a jug of hot water then placed some in spray bottle and just placed the spray bottle back into hot water and worked perfect.

Was able to spray onto car as it wasn't just in one big blob more spread out and I found so easy to apply.

Spike Witwicky

Curran wrote: »

Have you applied V7 on Collinite? Will work best on Chemical Guys products; but its not one that offers great beading anyways, its more of a gloss enhancer.

Collinite through a trigger - doubt it will work!

No. V7 was applied over Petes and Blacklight. To be honest the beading looked so bad it was like there was little to no wax on it at all.

Stuck a trigger head on my Collinite to stop it drying out anyway. We'll see how it goes.

Danger781

I might be looking to move on from my current MINI to something a little newer so she needs a thorough clean before going to the dealership. I know this might be a lot to ask but can someone put together a 'necessities' bundle for me from detailing shed, or whatever other sites you guys use? I took a look around and just ended up confused.. I have two buckets and cheap products at home but wasn't satisfied with the outcome last time around..

The wheel arches on MINIs - The black plastic type ones. On one of mine I have a relatively deep scratch and another one has white paint scratches. Would it be possible to detail these out? I tried using some plastic colour restoration stuff but it was no help..

Curran

Have you got a picture of the scratches on the wheel arches?

Danger781

Danger781

I feel like I need to clarify that none of those were my fault :pac:

The small deep scratch was there when I got the car. The white paint happened when it was parked up outside my house over night. The remainder near the dent was when someone else clipped me going around a roundabout. I treat my car properly I swear!

Special Circumstances

I've tried a few budget trim restorers on scrapes like that on a MINI. But not Gtechnig C4 or Solution Finish trim restorers.

The problem with those arches is if the matted/rough finish has been scraped smooth you will never not notice the scrape. A trim restorer will work if the trim is just faded but I think replacement might be the only option if you really want to remove scrapes.

Rear arch looks salvageable to me. The others will, at a rough guess, come to about €90 - €100 for trim + clips. Hardly worth it when there is other obvious crash damage.

WD40 would do for a quick spruce up before dealer sees it. I don't see the point in investing too much in it unless you are keeping it.

Any wax you use on the rest of the car - make sure it specifies that it will not leave white marks on trim. Way too much black plastic on a MINI to be dealing with anything else!

My opinions come from general experience of MINIs rather than much detailing experience/enthusiasm.

nd

You could try detailing clay on the white mark and on the black mark on the body. It might remove it.

punisher5112

Green scrub pad on the black trim to remove paint. Use some de tar on it also.