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Detailing chat

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Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Unless they are very light swirls, you'll need a machine polisher to remove them. A hand polish will help hide them for a while, but permanent removal will most likely need a machine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,620 ✭✭✭crasy dash


    Thanks for the reply Curran, was afraid of that I'd be too scared to go at it myself as I'm only learning the basics.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Totally understandable.

    I think you are best looking into the options of hiding the swirls, until you've learnt the basics of how some of the products work. And what would be involved in preparing the car for a machine polish. It isnt rocket science, but learning how to get the most out of the products and techniques, for claying for example, just takes a bit of practice! When you have that down; I guarantee you'll feel a bit more confident to consider using a machine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,620 ✭✭✭crasy dash


    Exactly my thoughts Curran:)

    Think ill buy a wing or something off the local scrap yard and refine my techniques on that for a start and then move onto my car.
    With regards a machine polisher what should i be looking at when it comes to buying one?

    My car is red in colour swirls are only very noticeable at night when i come out the front door and the street lights show it up does my head in knowing there in it though:(

    As always what product would you recommend got my first delivery from you on Thursday love the mr pink shampoo:) tried it out on the gf's car


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    For the machine polisher - starting with a Dual Action polisher is the safest option - go for one with 800W or more power, as the 500w versions are a bit under powered.

    50Cal Detailing Cover-Up Filler Glaze is an excellent product for hiding swirls - best applied by machine, but works by hand also - prep the car, by wash, de-tar, de-iron, and clay. Apply it and then some wax or sealant over it to ensure it doesnt just wash out after a few washes! ;)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,620 ✭✭✭crasy dash


    Looking at a das 21e if i was to order it what sort of pads accessories should i look to be getting just want to order it in one go and not be realising i need this and that after

    Sorry for all the questions hope im not dong your head in:)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 893 ✭✭✭mhackett102


    Whats the best product to use to clean alloys?
    Anytime I wash my alloys, they are still dirty and its very noticeable. I presume its the brake dust from the brakes as its worse on the front than the back.
    I heard of some iron thingy that you could use, but ive completely forgotten what it was!
    Any recommendations?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,670 ✭✭✭quadrifoglio verde


    Whats the best product to use to clean alloys?
    Anytime I wash my alloys, they are still dirty and its very noticeable. I presume its the brake dust from the brakes as its worse on the front than the back.
    I heard of some iron thingy that you could use, but ive completely forgotten what it was!
    Any recommendations?

    Fallout remover. Iron cleanse is good, have heard good things about iron x.
    I'm using wax tec fallout remover that I got ages ago of Curran in a flash sale. Decent but not as good as iron cleanse


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Yeah, you need a de-iron / fallout remover.

    Bilt Hamber Korrosol or thier Auto Wheel if you want to keep on top of contamination.
    Car Pro IronX
    50Cal DeCon
    Wolf's Deironizer
    Orchard Autocare's Iron Cleanse

    Are all products that will do the job! ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 893 ✭✭✭mhackett102


    Curran wrote: »
    Yeah, you need a de-iron / fallout remover.

    Bilt Hamber Korrosol or thier Auto Wheel if you want to keep on top of contamination.
    Car Pro IronX
    50Cal DeCon
    Wolf's Deironizer
    Orchard Autocare's Iron Cleanse

    Are all products that will do the job! ;)

    Would these be available in the likes of Halfords or would I have to buy them online?

    Thanks a million for letting me know :)

    Ive 4 cars here at home that I clean every weekend so it'll definitely be a hige help as all of them have the dirty alloys :pac:


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,721 ✭✭✭✭CianRyan


    When I was running white wheels with dirty, dirty pads I was driven mad with the brake dust.
    I'd have the whole car spotless for a meet, drive 20 minutes to get there and the wheels would be black.

    Had enough one day, took them off, car up on stands and spend about 3 hours sealing every inch of them with Autoglym Wheel Seal, after that all I had to do was give them a spray with a hose or a wipe with a damp cloth and they'd be sparkling again.

    I'm sure there's better wheel sealant on the market but that stuff'd last about 3 months before I had to reapply.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,615 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    crasy dash wrote: »
    Looking at a das 21e if i was to order it what sort of pads accessories should i look to be getting just want to order it in one go and not be realising i need this and that after

    Sorry for all the questions hope im not dong your head in:)

    Not sure if things have changed since those das 21's came on the scene but I did look at buyinf one but was advised away unless I had a das 6 as well because the pads were too big to get into small areas.
    As I said, I am unsure if smaller pads are available now or not


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,620 ✭✭✭crasy dash


    vectra wrote: »
    Not sure if things have changed since those das 21's came on the scene but I did look at buyinf one but was advised away unless I had a das 6 as well because the pads were too big to get into small areas.
    As I said, I am unsure if smaller pads are available now or not


    Thanks for that I wouldn't know me arse from my elbow when it comes to polishing machines.

    Any type you would recommend vectra?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,615 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    crasy dash wrote: »
    Thanks for that I wouldn't know me arse from my elbow when it comes to polishing machines.

    Any type you would recommend vectra?

    Just wondering.
    What paint will you be using it on?
    ie.
    Car (s) ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,620 ✭✭✭crasy dash


    vectra wrote: »
    Just wondering.
    What paint will you be using it on?
    ie.
    Car (s) ?

    My car is an a4 2009 mainly Toyota's and peugots for the rest of the family fleet


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,615 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    crasy dash wrote: »
    My car is an a4 2009 mainly Toyota's and peugots for the rest of the family fleet


    Not sure about Toyota and Peugot paint but I would say the Audi would be the hardest paint of the group.

    I reckon a Das6 pro would be perfect for you.
    That with a selection of pads ( I loved Hex Logic Pads )

    Also I found the Wolfs chemicals polishes were excellent.

    With the above combos you could rest assured you would turn out stunning results without being worried about making a boo boo.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,620 ✭✭✭crasy dash


    Any sites from Ireland supplying the das6?
    As it would only get the occasional use I think it would suit me just fine.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,615 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    crasy dash wrote: »
    Any sites from Ireland supplying the das6?
    As it would only get the occasional use I think it would suit me just fine.


    Maybe send Curran a Message and ask has DS any in stock or are they getting some in.

    Failing that I think the UK is your second option.
    if Curran cannot help post back ;)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,446 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Hi

    Long time lurker here. I've been tidying up my 00 Golf, at first I thought I'd be happy with it just beng very clean and hand polished but the swirls are bothering me so time to buy a DA and get it really sorted. But I'm a noob to machine polishing so, where do I start? I have seen the Dodo juice buff daddy for a decent price, good place to start?

    Also anybody else notice the Chemical Guys Pina Colada air freshener actually smells like southern and red?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,620 ✭✭✭crasy dash


    Thanks for the advice Vectra will pm Curran there in a minute

    Just noticed Vectra your from county cork im in North Cork myself


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,615 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    crasy dash wrote: »
    Thanks for the advice Vectra will pm Curran there in a minute

    Just noticed Vectra your from county cork im in North Cork myself

    North Cork myself LOL


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,620 ✭✭✭crasy dash


    Small county:pac: when i saw your location Buttevant jumped into my head

    Thanks for the advice learning little by little already sent Curran a pm so hopefully i can get something in the next few weeks:o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 15,615 ✭✭✭✭vectra


    crasy dash wrote: »
    Small county:pac: when i saw your location Buttevant jumped into my head

    Thanks for the advice learning little by little already sent Curran a pm so hopefully i can get something in the next few weeks:o

    Fermoy actually;:D


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,875 ✭✭✭Foxhole Norman


    No one wants to be in Buttevant :pac:


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 7,569 ✭✭✭Special Circumstances


    No one wants to be in Buttevant :pac:
    Tis a great place altogether so it is, they've even resurfaced some of it.
    Just so you can get a good run up to the speed van.

    But don't worry, they have retained the medieval charm of southern half of the village - you too can experience the trials of medieval cart transport on rutted glorified cattle tracks. All the thrills of an offroad adventure without leaving a National route.


    If I won a middling amount from the lotto I'd buy the place and erase all evidence of it. In fact I'd just bulldoze the buildings as infill for that windy section through an ex quarry or whatever it is - that windy section between Buttevant and Newtwopothouse.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,207 ✭✭✭bennyx_o


    Quick one for ye lads (& lasses)

    I've been giving the Lupo a clean and getting it ready to polish, and i went over it with some Iron X and Tar X - all fine except for an area on the drivers door where they seemed to have dried in and left a white stain. I've tried applying a small bit more then rinsing it off and it wont budge. Is it safe enough to polish over, or how should I go about removing it?

    I've tried to take a picture of it, but it just doesn't come out in the picture!

    EDIT: Included some pics

    IMAG0154_zpsooyfmynf.jpg

    IMAG0153_zpsbimbl481.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,207 ✭✭✭bennyx_o


    Went ahead and polished it a yellow hex logic pad and some menzerna polish and it came right out. Had to come in though, too much condensation and dew forming on the car, I'll finish the rest at the weekend. Oh to have a garage :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Glad you got sorted Benny - you did exactly as I would have advised by trying a small bit to remove it and to polish it if that didnt work! :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,207 ✭✭✭bennyx_o


    More a case of me doubting my abilities after letting it happen and not wanting to make it any worse! Can't wait for the weekend now to crack on and get the rest of it polished


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 5,042 ✭✭✭Bpmull


    I have mastered using autoglym srp however I'm struggling with the EGP how much should I put on and how long do I leave it before buffing it I have heard people saying an hour but surly that's way too long and would damage the paint.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10,055 ✭✭✭✭cena




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    Bpmull wrote: »
    I have mastered using autoglym srp however I'm struggling with the EGP how much should I put on and how long do I leave it before buffing it I have heard people saying an hour but surly that's way too long and would damage the paint.

    It has to be put on as thinly as possible - I find its best if its used via a sprayer, mist onto the panel and work in with a microfiber applicator. Lashing it on doesnt work well.

    About 30mins is enough if its not humid.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 314 ✭✭Darraghmh91.


    With EGP I put it on fairly thin but I did leave the product set for an hour and thought it was perfect
    If you read the instructions you will see how much to put on and it will state between 30 to 60 minutes
    I find that after using "proper" polish that srp is pure crap man it's rocks in a bottle and never thought it till I got good chemical guys polish off curran along with an orange hex logic pad and got WAY WAY better results and found the chemical guys was so much easier to apply and buff off with little dust where SRP I found my cloths being clogged and even tho I was putting it on very thin and didn't let it dry for too long
    Id never ever go near auto glym again it's not worth the funds id rather pay the extra money on good polish the results are amazing
    Instead of the EGP I just wax the car after polishing and my wax is colllinite845


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 893 ✭✭✭mhackett102


    Was just on the CarPro website and was about to buy an iron remover (Iron X) & a tar remover (Tar X)
    But when I was about to check out, this came up for me.
    Has anyone ever used it? Or think it would be as good as the two?

    Im removing tar from the body of the car, and removing iron from the alloys.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 314 ✭✭Darraghmh91.


    Lookin to really get a good lot of car detailing products and stuff for 2015 so lookin for Recommendations on what makes and rough prices on what to pay for a good quality one .. Not buying something at cheap budget .. If I'm gonna buy it I wanna buy a good one that will do a great job with good durability so lookin dorvthe following

    Steam cleaner (will this remove fungal bud up in a car i have sitting up for about 4 months)
    Wet vac
    Kink free hose
    Pressure washer
    Glass polish
    I have a hex logic orange hand pad but am I better off morning down to a white or black pad after my first coat of polish and will I use the same polish for each cost (chemical guys p40 polish)
    I have a chemical guys ufo pad for my wax


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    Wet vac has gotta be the george numatic fella. Green lad with the face on him.

    Pressure washer, nilfisk c120.5 or point something. I have one and can't fault it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 314 ✭✭Darraghmh91.


    What kinda price is on these and funny you should say that wet vac cause I was only lookin at it yesterday online as Iv heard its a pretty good one

    Thanks man


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,845 ✭✭✭Noccy_Mondy


    Nearly postive the george is at least 230 anyway.

    I got m6 nilfisk in argos last year reduced to 125.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    But when I was about to check out, this came up for me.
    Has anyone ever used it? Or think it would be as good as the two?

    I will be a grand product if you have done both processes recently and the paint/wheels arent heavily contaminated.

    The two separate products will do a far better job.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 893 ✭✭✭mhackett102


    Curran wrote: »
    I will be a grand product if you have done both processes recently and the paint/wheels arent heavily contaminated.

    The two separate products will do a far better job.

    I might go for the two seperate products, or check does my local place have anything equivelant to it..

    The car has quiet a bit of tar on the body, but only a small bit of iron on the alloys..
    The jeep is the complete opposite, they may aswell be black with the amount of iron on them!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,377 ✭✭✭Curran


    You dont always see the iron contamination - when its very bad, your wheels will show signs of it. But more often than not, they'll have some sort of contamination; as will your paintwork.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 996 ✭✭✭bbari


    The quote at the bottom is quite relevant to those in Detailing! :)

    av216g.jpg


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,755 ✭✭✭ianobrien


    Bpmull wrote: »
    I have mastered using autoglym srp however I'm struggling with the EGP how much should I put on and how long do I leave it before buffing it I have heard people saying an hour but surly that's way too long and would damage the paint.

    I've used Autoglym SRP and always got reasonable results. I put small amounts, adjust the pressure where needed and never had problems with residue. I sealed with Autoglym EGP and put on two thin layers. I left it for about an hour on one car as it was misting when applied (I had the car under cover). It was all hand done but was buffed with a lambswool mit on a cheapo Lidl polisher.

    I did it to my and Da's car last September and have used Autoglym Rapid Detailer since. You can see the results in my last posts on the "Today I did some detailing" thread.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,755 ✭✭✭ianobrien


    Lads, what snowfoam would you recommend. I tried the Autoglym Pressure Washer but it wasn't great. It was quite watery, even with the lance turned up as much as possible and didn't loosen much. (Its bloody brilliant on house windows and conservatories).

    I have a proper adjustable lance so I'm looking for recommendations for snowfoam. The requirements are for one with good staying power, ability to loosen dirt, suitable for modern cars, vintage car with old paint and a vinyl roof and motorhome bodies. The vintage car and Motorhome body comparability isn't too high as we have "alternative" methods for them (two bucket method mainly)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,644 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    ianobrien wrote: »
    Lads, what snowfoam would you recommend. I tried the Autoglym Pressure Washer but it wasn't great. It was quite watery, even with the lance turned up as much as possible and didn't loosen much. (Its bloody brilliant on house windows and conservatories).

    I have a proper adjustable lance so I'm looking for recommendations for snowfoam. The requirements are for one with good staying power, ability to loosen dirt, suitable for modern cars, vintage car with old paint and a vinyl roof and motorhome bodies. The vintage car and Motorhome body comparability isn't too high as we have "alternative" methods for them (two bucket method mainly)


    I bought 50cal snowfoam off detailing shed just waiting on lance but that snowfoam is meant to be great.

    I am getting excited about using it:pac::pac:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,446 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    When it comes to the DA I'm completely a noob. Where do I start. I'm thinking the process would be

    -Strip all existing protection
    -Wash
    -Polish with DA
    -Seal
    Etc
    Etc

    So, best way to strip? Which polish(es)?

    Recommend a DA and what accessories do I need?

    Any other guidance would be appreciated for a novice. I have a panel to practice on first


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 314 ✭✭Darraghmh91.


    Wash wheels
    Wash car
    Dry
    De tar
    De iron
    Rinse
    Claybar
    Rinse
    Dry
    Machine polish maybe use orange and blue pad
    Buff off polish
    Wax it
    Buff off wax

    Should be good then


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,446 ✭✭✭LollipopJimmy


    Wash wheels
    Wash car
    Dry
    De tar
    De iron
    Rinse
    Claybar
    Rinse
    Dry
    Machine polish maybe use orange and blue pad
    Buff off polish
    Wax it
    Buff off wax

    Should be good then
    Thanks. I think I'm good on what to do for prep. I've deterred, de ironed, clay barred the car last week but I will do each again before I start. Would that be enough in terms of stripping the current protection?
    The paint is very smooth now to the touch but the swirls are bothering me

    Eager to try a different wax too, used the AG HD wax which is very good and ill be giving a coat of glossworx glaze too, I do like glazes. Any recommendations on a wax to try.

    It's a jazz blue VW btw


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 24,644 ✭✭✭✭punisher5112


    Thanks. I think I'm good on what to do for prep. I've deterred, de ironed, clay barred the car last week but I will do each again before I start. Would that be enough in terms of stripping the current protection?
    The paint is very smooth now to the touch but the swirls are bothering me

    You will need to use the likes of all purpose cleaner(household) and or washing up liquid.

    This will strip any protection left.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 314 ✭✭Darraghmh91.


    Don't clay your car again that is good now for another 6 months or so

    Iv heard great things about meguires m105 and m 205 with Orange and White pads and maybe a blue or black to finish it

    I thought de tar and iron will remove all old polidh but curran will quote you on that

    I use colllinite845 wax and love the stuff it's only like 30 quid and gives great results and protection for a long time Detailing shed have it in stock

    Do you do the 2bm to wash your car and use a proper wash mitt compared to a sponge as the sponge will cause swirls along with cheap MF cloths


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