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Shower stopped working - bill very high?

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  • 25-04-2014 2:16pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 413 ✭✭


    I don't know much about this stuff so any advice on this would be great. Thanks.

    Recently the electric shower stopped working and a switch tripped in the fuse box. The power on/off switch (which I always leave on) on the ensuite wall has some burn marks.

    My new bill is double the norm. Usage hasn't changed. Switched off power to test and the meter stopped.

    Also the back room seems to have a slight buzzing noise. During the day I can't hear it due to outside traffic but at night I can. (Not sure if related as only started to use room.)

    I was planning to get an electrician in to fix the shower. Electric Ireland suggested getting the lines checked aswell.

    Is there anything else I can do?


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Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    I'd prob get an owl meter to keep an eye on usage

    as well as getting a registered contractor out to repair shower and investigate usage


  • Registered Users Posts: 450 ✭✭mcgragger


    odckdo wrote: »
    I don't know much about this stuff so any advice on this would be great. Thanks.

    Recently the electric shower stopped working and a switch tripped in the fuse box. The power on/off switch (which I always leave on) on the ensuite wall has some burn marks.

    My new bill is double the norm. Usage hasn't changed. Switched off power to test and the meter stopped.

    Also the back room seems to have a slight buzzing noise. During the day I can't hear it due to outside traffic but at night I can. (Not sure if related as only started to use room.)

    I was planning to get an electrician in to fix the shower. Electric Ireland suggested getting the lines checked aswell.

    Is there anything else I can do?

    The power on off switch you talk about should be the double pole isolator switch, and should be a pull cord or its not within regs.

    Secondly, they burn out quite commonly because the power showers draw heavy load current and this creates heat around the terminals in the back of the switch.

    the trip out is down to your shower switch shorting out due to failure caused by scorching. There could be a few reasons for this, dodgy shower, loose connections, cheap brand switch.

    If your new bill is double the norm there is something else wrong,if the shower is tripped out then it would not be using any current.

    can you give me a little more details of your house?
    I'll try and help you, in the meantime I would leave the shower RCD(fuse) in the tripped position.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    mcgragger wrote: »
    The power on off switch you talk about should be the double pole isolator switch, and should be a pull cord or its not within regs.


    the trip out is down to your shower switch shorting out due to failure caused by scorching.
    I think he means a wall switch outside which should comply with wiring rules

    it 'may' be the cause of the problem but will need replacing anyhow


  • Registered Users Posts: 450 ✭✭mcgragger


    Ive replaced loads of them over the years.
    They burn out. Ive never heard of an increased bill because of it.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    mcgragger wrote: »
    and should be a pull cord or its not within regs.

    Is a pull cord switch the only switch permitted within regs for the isolation of an electric shower?


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  • Registered Users Posts: 450 ✭✭mcgragger


    Is a pull cord switch the only switch permitted within regs for the isolation of an electric shower?

    Within a bathroom yes.

    Some older installations have sswitches on the wall.

    Personally I'd only fit a pull cord. Its not worth the risk for the sake of a few quid extra


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    mcgragger wrote: »

    Personally I'd only fit a pull cord. Its not worth the risk for the sake of a few quid extra

    What brand switch do you use?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    there was actually a move away from pull-cords because of problems

    but id also favour a quality pullcord properly fitted

    crabtree for example


  • Registered Users Posts: 450 ✭✭mcgragger


    What brand switch do you use?

    MK
    Crabtree
    Marbo.

    Any good electrical wholesaler will have them.

    Don't buy in woodies or any shop like that.
    They are normally overpriced rubbish


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    I dont use pull cords, use double pole switch on wall. I dont like pull cord, the string gets dirty, kids like swinging off them cord cracks, pullchords overheat even with good connections.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    mcgragger wrote: »
    Ive replaced loads of them over the years.
    They burn out. Ive never heard of an increased bill because of it.

    the rcd trip.. not the usage

    you said the switch caused the trip

    which may be the case


  • Registered Users Posts: 450 ✭✭mcgragger


    the rcd trip.. not the usage

    you said the switch caused the trip

    which may be the case

    The RCD will trip if the terminals are scorched and burnt out. So in that case its the switch causing the trip.


  • Registered Users Posts: 450 ✭✭mcgragger


    I dont use pull cords, use double pole switch on wall. I dont like pull cord, the string gets dirty, kids like swinging off them cord cracks, pullchords overheat even with good connections.

    Doesn't matter what you like. They are specified for safety reasons. You can shorten the chord.
    The problem can ssometimes be the way its wired. The cables are quite big and having 2 tails in a single gang box leaves no space for dressing cables.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    mcgragger wrote: »
    Doesn't matter what you like. They are specified for safety reasons. You can shorten the chord.

    specified where?

    and burnt switches don't necessarily trip rcds


  • Registered Users Posts: 450 ✭✭mcgragger


    specified where?

    and burnt switches don't necessarily trip rcds

    Are you a sparks?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    mcgragger wrote: »
    Are you a sparks?

    maybe you could start by answering the question


  • Registered Users Posts: 450 ✭✭mcgragger


    maybe you could start by answering the question

    Lets put it like this

    If you're a sparks you should know where to find the regulations or you're not competent.

    If you're not a sparks then you are not in a position to talk.

    So which is it?


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    which regulation says you have to use pullcords?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    mcgragger wrote: »
    Doesn't matter what you like. They are specified for safety reasons. You can shorten the chord.

    So am i going against regs using a wall switch?
    The problem can ssometimes be the way its wired. The cables are quite big and having 2 tails in a single gang box leaves no space for dressing cables.

    I wouldnt class 6sq big, are you telling me its not possible to safetly terminate and wire a double pole switch with a 47mm deep backing box?


  • Registered Users Posts: 450 ✭✭mcgragger


    So am i going against regs using a wall switch?



    I wouldnt class 6sq. are you telling me its not possible to safetly terminate and wire a double pole switch with a 47mm deep backing box?

    As long as the switch is outside the bathroom it's ok.

    6sq could be small for a 40a unit. I'd use 10sq. This makes it difficult unless you have good access to the back of the box. Not necessarily unsafe but difficult to be neat as 10sq is big and the switch terminals are bulky.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    so there is no regulation..


  • Registered Users Posts: 70 ✭✭Bosley1421


    Can I ask, does the light on the pull cord switch always remain illuminated?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    mcgragger wrote: »
    As long as the switch is outside the bathroom it's ok.

    6sq could be small for a 40a unit. I'd use 10sq. This makes it difficult unless you have good access to the back of the box. Not necessarily unsafe but difficult to be neat as 10sq is big and the switch terminals are bulky.

    Lets call a spade a spade here my question was specific, i asked you is it not possible to safetly terminate and wire a double pole switch with a 47mm deep backing box with 6sq?
    We are not discussing cable carrying loads.


  • Registered Users Posts: 450 ✭✭mcgragger


    Bosley1421 wrote: »
    Can I ask, does the light on the pull cord switch always remain illuminated?

    Probably connected wrong. Mains feed is connected to wrong side of switch.

    It will still switch but Led will stay lit.


  • Registered Users Posts: 450 ✭✭mcgragger


    Lets call a spade a spade here my question was specific, i asked you is it not possible to safetly terminate and wire a double pole switch with a 47mm deep backing box with 6sq?
    We are not discussing cable carrying loads.

    We are talking about showers so its not ok to assume you want to wire a shower with 6 Sq?

    **** my life you try and offer advice to people.

    Shouldn't have bothered.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    mcgragger wrote: »

    Personally I'd only fit a pull cord. Its not worth the risk for the sake of a few quid extra

    That`s the opposite for me. Wall switches are a much better job.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    mcgragger wrote: »
    The RCD will trip if the terminals are scorched and burnt out. So in that case its the switch causing the trip.

    Only if the scorching and carbonization reaches the earth terminal from the phase. I dont remember seeing any burnt pullchords tripping rcd`s myself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,890 ✭✭✭tomdempsey200


    Bruthal wrote: »
    Only if the scorching and carbonization reaches the earth terminal from the phase. I dont remember seeing any burnt pullchords tripping rcd`s myself.

    me neither

    not saying it can't happen


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    me neither

    not saying it can't happen

    It would want to be one seriously burnt switch. But it is possible alright i`d say.

    I seen badly burnt light fittings cause phase neutral or phase earth shorts. But with a shower switch, the burning caused by the load itself usually causes a breakdown of the connection, so cutting off the shower and stopping further burning. Where the light fittings just kept burning the cable until short. Outdoor lights with too big a wattage bulb in them.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    mcgragger wrote: »
    We are talking about showers so its not ok to assume you want to wire a shower with 6 Sq?

    Where have i said otherwise, i am not in the habit of repeating myself but why cant you answer my question.
    **** my life you try and offer advice to people.

    Shouldn't have bothered.

    I was not looking for advice.


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