Essential internals for DMR

MW2FAN

Going to build a dmr and just wondering if anyone could refresh me on some of the essential upgrades I will need(would be great if you could link me them). Also it is a blowback aps if that makes any difference.

T4RGET

MW2FAN wrote: »

Going to build a dmr and just wondering if anyone could refresh me on some of the essential upgrades I will need(would be great if you could link me them). Also it is a blowback aps if that makes any difference.

get a new base AEG to start with
sorry strong personal dislike for APS gear

You'd want to be going for low ratio gears and a high torque motor for a start.

The concept of a DMR always baffled me in airsoft as they're just glorified AEG's. Especially when most people don't disable the full auto on their rifles.

Anyways. make sure the gears are shimmed properly and do the AOE and maybe short stroke it.

For best performance though you may want to get a mosfet. not just a standard one but one with active break and pre cocking. Also some allow you to change the modes in which the rifles fires in so you could have the semi and the auto set to semi should you wish to ever change the rifle back to full auto you can easily do so by reprogramming the mosfet .

Hope it helps

Any more questions fire away mate.

MW2FAN

Haha I hate them too, was my first gun and gave me hassle from day 1, cheers for the info.

Also would a new cylinder and head, and perhaps a new barrel be in need?

Southern Dandy

MW2FAN wrote: »

Also would a new cylinder and head, and perhaps a new barrel be in need?

DMR's generally have longer barrels than standard rifles (well normally), so in the airsoft world you will need a long inner barrel, because of your longer barrel you will need a type 0 cylinder, its to do with air volume which I wont bore you with. Get yourself a decent hop-up rubber or if you only us semi look into an r-hop.

Cylinder head, pistons, nozzles are all good upgrades which will provide you with a better air seal. Start out with Deans connectors, upgrade your wiring with low-res stuff, intall a mosfet, high speed gears and a hi-torque motor all of these will give you a snappy trigger response paired with a lipo battery.

Aesthetically I like DMR's, you can do alot with them. But at the end of the day there all the same. We build or buy rifles because at the end of the day we like the look of them more than how they perform, we then upgrade the performance, well saying that, its not everyone that does this but you know who you are, I am one of these people .

MW2FAN

That's a great para mate, really appreciate it. Especially the cylinder and barrel mix. Any more upgrades worth having and if so could you perhaps link me some parts?

CpcRc

A new cylinder and longer inner barrel is to do with the volume ratio between the two. So if you have a cylinder for a shorter barrel matched with a longer inner barrel it should shoot a little slower. But overall it isn't absolutely necessary.

Using a longer inner barrel is not as important as you may think. The most important thing is getting a good quality inner barrel. A barrel needs to be 200/300 longer before it will affect accuracy. So an inner barrel doesn't have to be the length of the outer barrel, it just has to be a very good quality one. This is where you have to research what brands are the best. Around the regular price range, guarder barrels are pretty good. Not stocked as widely as other brands, though. There are more expensive ones that are better.

Another tip is to have your inner barrel as secure in the outer barrel as the vibrations will affect accuracy. Some aegs are pretty good to begin with but you can add a little tape to it to get it to fit snugger. The end of the barrel is the most important part to secure as it is the last area that the BB touches before leaving the barrel so if it is un-secure it will affect the BB.

If you are using a shorter inner barrel because it was easier to get it in that length, it is very important that it is a good brand and secure. That way it won't hit off anything on the way out. You can have a good inner barrel stop 100mm short and still go through a silencer without it hitting anything if it is shooting straight.

That should help with the accuracy, people have already covered what helps snappy trigger response. Some smart mosfet units actually can allow just semi auto fire only and even delayed firing modes where you have to wait between shots.

MW2FAN

Thanks lads, have a bit of cash so might pick up a Prometheus 509mm barrel for a m16 length rifle,

T4RGET

MW2FAN wrote: »

Thanks lads, have a bit of cash so might pick up a Prometheus 509mm barrel for a m16 length rifle,

This is my personal opinion and from personal experience. So take this any way you want but I never go over 363mm for barrels (Standard M4A1 length). And since pretty recently don't go lower than a 6.04 mm inner barrel. I've found that the increase in length of a 363 mm and 450 or 509 barrel is so insignificant there' s little point.

Personally if i was going down the DMR route I'd get an outer barrel that's shorter than the innter barrel and a 10" rail system, then get a suppressor that covers the rest of the inner. This way you'll still get that long DMR look, have a suppressor on it but still use a standard M4 barrel.

I've tested a good few barrel for my project M4 and tbh I stuck with a 6.04, 363 mm inner barrel which is a stock G&G barrel from a Raider. I found it gave the best performance.

The longer length barrels mean the BB is travelling for a fair amount of time befre it leaves the barrel, explains the need for different cylinders (mentioned above by someone already) but if there are any imperfections in the barrel the longer barrel is going to amplify that effect on the BB as it travels down the barrel. Also with the hop up on the BB tends to travel along the top of barrel so there's really little point in going lower than 6.04 or 6.03 really.

These are things I've found over the years of playing and while building my own M4 so take what you want from it at the end of the day you're going to have a custom rifle

MW2FAN

Cheers again, getting some great feedback here, thanks for everything.

MW2FAN

Ok lads going to invest in a one piece cylinder, mad bull 409mm 6.01 or 6.02 barrel and a systema hop up bucking.

DeBurca

MW2FAN wrote: »

Ok lads going to invest in a one piece cylinder, mad bull 409mm 6.01 or 6.02 barrel and a systema hop up bucking.

Why a one piece cylinder ??????????????

MW2FAN

Probably for Better compression but I could just achieve that with an ordinary cylinder and some Teflon tape!

T4RGET

MW2FAN wrote: »

Ok lads going to invest in a one piece cylinder, mad bull 409mm 6.01 or 6.02 barrel and a systema hop up bucking.

as Deburca asked why one piece?

Also I'd highly advise against going that tight with an inner barrel. If you really feel you'll notice a different with a TBB go with 6.02. 6.01 can cause serious problems. You need to keep the barrel spotless and get some seriously decent BB's.

Just more information for ya mate

MW2FAN

Would 6.03mm get the job done? Saw some cheap ones on rsov and thought it could do the job, but never heard of the brand. They're called venaras if any one has heard of them?

T4RGET

MW2FAN wrote: »

Would 6.03mm get the job done? Saw some cheap ones on rsov and thought it could do the job, but never heard of the brand. They're called venaras if any one has heard of them?

I've seen Vanaras barrels a few times, and i think hobby had them in for a while, could be wrong though but I have no experience with them so no help sorry mate.

Like i said though an airsoft barrel aren't really made to mil-spec so I'd imagine a lot of them have a few flaws in them. Things like kinks or bumps on the inside of the barrel can cause the BB to spin or get deflected in unpredictable ways.

Anyways I have a 6.03 Madbull Python II in my Raider and a 6.04 G&G barrel in my custom M4 and haven't seen any difference. In fact my Custom shoots further, more down the to hop though. if they're pretty cheap I suggest picking one up and trying it. To get the best results you're going to have to experiment. There's no 'one stop' formula in airsoft for barrel and hop up combination unfortunately so you'll have to try a few different things.

DeBurca

MW2FAN wrote: »

Probably for Better compression but I could just achieve that with an ordinary cylinder and some Teflon tape!

I assume you mean PTFE (polytetraflouroethylene) tape many people call it teflon tape but they are very wrong

If you are building a DMR you should be looking for quietness and a one piece cylinder has a metal cylinder head which although stronger will produce more noise from the impact of the piston head
Personally I would used the existing cylinder head provided it is in good condition

DeBurca

MW2FAN wrote: »

Would 6.03mm get the job done? Saw some cheap ones on rsov and thought it could do the job, but never heard of the brand. They're called venaras if any one has heard of them?

As regards Vanaras barrels I have used them on many a build and have used then to replace worn MadBull barrels

MadBull barrels are very good when new but alas they are made from aluminum and it is supposed to be Aircraft grade aluminum and although then have a coating they are never the less aluminum and softer then some
I have seen them with severe rippling in the bore after many many BBs so while I have fitted them I would take a Vanaras barrel over a MadBull anyday

MW2FAN

Cheers for the advice.