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Ares/Umarex G36cv upgrades?

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  • 05-05-2014 5:33pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 7,067 ✭✭✭


    so i bought one of these. its working well and all but im sure it can be better with some upgrades. what do you guys suggest? im a newb here so go easy on me :P

    i would be interested in upgrade opinions for performance and a rough price range. im sure i could do the upgrades myself with youtube video tutorials.

    or how much would a local airsoft shop do the upgrades for?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 40,291 ✭✭✭✭Gatling


    What exactly are you looking to improve exactly,

    Rof ( rate of fire)

    Trigger response ,

    Range,

    Accuracy,


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,067 ✭✭✭MarkY91


    Gatling wrote: »
    What exactly are you looking to improve exactly,

    Rof ( rate of fire)

    Trigger response ,

    Range,

    Accuracy,

    range and accuracy. i need a barrel for that, right?

    tha accuracy from a certain distance is fine but when i tried to shoot a target at around 45-50 yards away, the bb's would drop or swerve away like they were being moved by the air. ive had an m4 with an already upgraded barrel that would stay relativitly straight and would fly a further distance


    could you link me to what i would need please?


  • Registered Users Posts: 294 ✭✭Mini Dude


    Maybe try and adjust your hop, even a new one might help. What weight BB's are you using?


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,067 ✭✭✭MarkY91


    Mini Dude wrote: »
    Maybe try and adjust your hop, even a new one might help. What weight BB's are you using?

    theyre either 0.20 or 0.25. ive used the gun again today, i used my cousins bb's which are one of the weights above and the gun was shooting at the target alot better, it was reaching it and passing it(aiming at a metal lampost btw)

    but the pellets come out a little to the right and swerve inward. i guess thats to be expected at long distance? i wish i was more knowledgable in airsoft.


  • Registered Users Posts: 97 ✭✭FizzyCola


    about 50-60m is to be expected from aegs. Having a good hop up or even having it set correctly can make a big difference to your range.You will have to readjust it for different weight bbs. Also the overall quality of the gun too. My G&P M4 and G&G MP5 vastly outrange my CYMA AK and are far more accurate.

    FPS can make a difference to range but not a massive difference. If one gun is 320 and the other is 200 well then you will see a difference. I have a 3rd hand 7ish yr old TM G36c that fires about 285 fps but that has very good range.

    .20 bbs will be affected more by the wind and if its drizzly or very humid. They will leave the barrel faster than .25s but the .25s will have a much more stable flight especially in poorer conditions and will have a more effective range. I use .25s outside the whole time. If its very windy in an open area you might as well use .20s coz you dont stand much of a chance anyway.

    Upgrades would be to reshim the gears if it hasnt been done before and to check the air seal in the gearbox and the hop up unit to maximise your fps. A new hop up rubber will help increase the range if the one currently in the gun is of poor quality or old.

    Evike have some decent educational videos on youtube. You'll have to scroll down quite a bit. They also do a thing called "The not so round table" where they answer questions. They answer a lot of beginner type questions but also some non airsoft questions as well.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,067 ✭✭✭MarkY91


    FizzyCola wrote: »
    about 50-60m is to be expected from aegs. Having a good hop up or even having it set correctly can make a big difference to your range.You will have to readjust it for different weight bbs. Also the overall quality of the gun too. My G&P M4 and G&G MP5 vastly outrange my CYMA AK and are far more accurate.

    FPS can make a difference to range but not a massive difference. If one gun is 320 and the other is 200 well then you will see a difference. I have a 3rd hand 7ish yr old TM G36c that fires about 285 fps but that has very good range.

    .20 bbs will be affected more by the wind and if its drizzly or very humid. They will leave the barrel faster than .25s but the .25s will have a much more stable flight especially in poorer conditions and will have a more effective range. I use .25s outside the whole time. If its very windy in an open area you might as well use .20s coz you dont stand much of a chance anyway.

    Upgrades would be to reshim the gears if it hasnt been done before and to check the air seal in the gearbox and the hop up unit to maximise your fps. A new hop up rubber will help increase the range if the one currently in the gun is of poor quality or old.

    ive bought the gun second hand. its in great condition ans its all stock parts as far as i know. im gonna have a go on adjusting the hop up tomorrow and see if i can get rid of the sideward curve. i wouldnt even know how to check the air seal in the gearbox but ill do some googling on the subject. thanks for the help


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭T4RGET


    MarkY91 wrote: »
    ive bought the gun second hand. its in great condition ans its all stock parts as far as i know. im gonna have a go on adjusting the hop up tomorrow and see if i can get rid of the sideward curve. i wouldnt even know how to check the air seal in the gearbox but ill do some googling on the subject. thanks for the help

    quickest way to check air seal is to place some paper over the mag well, with the rifle turned upside down. Then fire it a few time, if the paper moves excessively there's an issue with air seal between the hop up chamber and gearbox.
    To check the seal inside the gear box you have to open it up.
    What you're trying to do is simulate the spring moving into the cylinder so grab the cylinder along with the cylinder head into your hand and cover the cylinder head opening with your thumb, then as fast as you can push the piston assembly into the cylidner. If it goes in really easy you're losing air and if the harder it gets to push into the cylinder the better. The AEG's I work on, I try to swap and change parts to get the piston unmovable by myself.

    So when i push the piston into the cylinder it won't budge at all after it travels the first couple of centimeters into the cylinder. I usually work from here. Shim the gears. I shim them from the motor though.
    Then use a 6.04 barrel and a G&G green and madbul concave nub, then chrono it and adjust the spring from there. It does mean however if the rifles is firing over after all this checking and you don't have a spare spring it's unuseable but it saves just throwing in a stronger spring to compensate for air loss :)
    Using the exact spring you need can also increase the RoF and decrease wear and tear as the gears aren't pulling a heavy spring which means the motor can turn the internals faster as the spring isn't too heavy :)

    Hope it helps/makes sense :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,067 ✭✭✭MarkY91


    T4RGET wrote: »
    quickest way to check air seal is to place some paper over the mag well, with the rifle turned upside down. Then fire it a few time, if the paper moves excessively there's an issue with air seal between the hop up chamber and gearbox.
    To check the seal inside the gear box you have to open it up.
    What you're trying to do is simulate the spring moving into the cylinder so grab the cylinder along with the cylinder head into your hand and cover the cylinder head opening with your thumb, then as fast as you can push the piston assembly into the cylidner. If it goes in really easy you're losing air and if the harder it gets to push into the cylinder the better. The AEG's I work on, I try to swap and change parts to get the piston unmovable by myself.

    So when i push the piston into the cylinder it won't budge at all after it travels the first couple of centimeters into the cylinder. I usually work from here. Shim the gears. I shim them from the motor though.
    Then use a 6.04 barrel and a G&G green and madbul concave nub, then chrono it and adjust the spring from there. It does mean however if the rifles is firing over after all this checking and you don't have a spare spring it's unuseable but it saves just throwing in a stronger spring to compensate for air loss :)
    Using the exact spring you need can also increase the RoF and decrease wear and tear as the gears aren't pulling a heavy spring which means the motor can turn the internals faster as the spring isn't too heavy :)

    Hope it helps/makes sense :)

    i get it to a certain extent. i saw a guy on youtube pushing the piston into the cylinder on my very model of gun and they could push it in real slowly so im guessing its the same for me.


    would the "service" on MIA check this? would they fix it? and shim it and adjust any problems inside? doubt they do all that for the 10 euro price tag they charge


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭T4RGET


    MarkY91 wrote: »
    i get it to a certain extent. i saw a guy on youtube pushing the piston into the cylinder on my very model of gun and they could push it in real slowly so im guessing its the same for me.


    would the "service" on MIA check this? would they fix it? and shim it and adjust any problems inside? doubt they do all that for the 10 euro price tag they charge

    you'd be surprised how much these things vary from model to model, even if the two are made by the same company. Best to check it yourself. Having said that, it's a new AEG, for you anyways so my advice is game with it a few times, have fun with it. You'll pick up the language and knowledge as you play airsoft and then you can start playing with it.
    Honestly. I don't know if MIA's service includes that. Usually a 'service' is a re-grease not much more. Personally I'd bring it to a retailer and get them to do the work and as them what exactly you want. Alternatively look around on Boards for people that will do the work for you. Myself will look at it for you if you want, Leftyflip I'm sure will too. There are plenty of other people too :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,446 ✭✭✭brenak47


    What u seen was him checking air compression within the gearbox but if u do the trick t4rget has said it will do the same without having to open the gearbox.The barrel is easy enough to remove theres alot of vids on u tube how to.I'd remove it clean it and reset the hop up rubber.As for u grades if u haven't opened a gearbox before i'd send it to a shop as u could cause more problems than u started out with(speaking from experience on my first gun i tried to work on).I slowly got my head around the gearbox by working on a spare one.Prices vary depending on what needs to be done but chris in mia will tell u before he opens it.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 97 ✭✭FizzyCola


    Ive been playing airsoft now for about 2 years and only opened the gearbox the other day on my AUG the other day with my brother. I understood the concept from reading stuff online and watching videos but it becomes a lot clearer when you actually can look at the stuff right in front of you. I have since become quite handy at taking apart an AUG from front to back.

    Id say play airsoft for a while and see how your gun compares to similar ones you see at your site and see if yours can compete with those. If it doesnt bring it to your local shop or some independent guy and get them to have a look at it for you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,067 ✭✭✭MarkY91


    good advice guys. ill bring it to airsoft and play a few times. the distance im aiaming at is fairly far so i guess not many rifles with stock barrels etc will perform much better.

    ill report back in a few weeks anyways. thanks alot


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,446 ✭✭✭brenak47


    What distance are u aim for at an upgraded barrel will help a bit on range but will tighten the grouping up.I've tried r hop,flat hop and about 3 different barrels and theres is very little in it from the gun being stock.I run a g&g raider.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,067 ✭✭✭MarkY91


    brenak47 wrote: »
    What distance are u aim for at an upgraded barrel will help a bit on range but will tighten the grouping up.I've tried r hop,flat hop and about 3 different barrels and theres is very little in it from the gun being stock.I run a g&g raider.

    its hard for me to know the distance but its not far off being half a football pitch. i ca surpass the target but the bb comes out of the barrel bit to the right and swerves inward toward the target. no noticable accuracy issues when aiming at anything close range like 10 metres away


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,446 ✭✭✭brenak47


    That could be as simple as a dirty barrel


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,067 ✭✭✭MarkY91


    brenak47 wrote: »
    That could be as simple as a dirty barrel

    could be. i dont know how long the previous owner had it for. ill have to get cleaning stuff. ordering a charger from airsoftguns.ie on monday so ill order them too and tell you guys how it goes


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,067 ✭✭✭MarkY91


    http://www.airsoftguns.ie/maintenance-tools/1023-gamo-177-22-airsoft-airguns-cleaner-kit.html

    ive put that into my cart. anything else i need? i have no clue if i need anyhting else or not :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭T4RGET


    MarkY91 wrote: »
    its hard for me to know the distance but its not far off being half a football pitch. i ca surpass the target but the bb comes out of the barrel bit to the right and swerves inward toward the target. no noticeable accuracy issues when aiming at anything close range like 10 metres away

    well 10 metres is probably a bit useless really. You should hit a target pretty easily everytime at 35 metres. Your BB's curving may be due to your barrel not sitting right in your hop up chamber.
    That kit you linked really isn't all that necessary. Just use a standard cleaning rod with some wet cloth on it and that should be fine :)
    You seem to be stressing about this :p
    Relax, have some fun with it. It's your first rifle mate. have some fun, go out and game and get parts as you need them. I admire your foresight in getting the cleaning kit though as i have had a few rifles in here which are dirty byond believe, never mind given to me in a plastic bag, loaded, mag in it and the battery connected so keep that mind set but don't worry about all that stuff too much, treat your rifle right and it'll keep working. It'll break eventually but they're easily fixed :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,067 ✭✭✭MarkY91


    T4RGET wrote: »
    well 10 metres is probably a bit useless really. You should hit a target pretty easily everytime at 35 metres. Your BB's curving may be due to your barrel not sitting right in your hop up chamber.
    That kit you linked really isn't all that necessary. Just use a standard cleaning rod with some wet cloth on it and that should be fine :)
    You seem to be stressing about this :p
    Relax, have some fun with it. It's your first rifle mate. have some fun, go out and game and get parts as you need them. I admire your foresight in getting the cleaning kit though as i have had a few rifles in here which are dirty byond believe, never mind given to me in a plastic bag, loaded, mag in it and the battery connected so keep that mind set but don't worry about all that stuff too much, treat your rifle right and it'll keep working. It'll break eventually but they're easily fixed :)


    ill get a standard one then. and some of that silicone spray, right?


    ah im delighted with the gun anyways. ill see how the cleaning goes!


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭T4RGET


    MarkY91 wrote: »
    ill get a standard one then. and some of that silicone spray, right?


    ah im delighted with the gun anyways. ill see how the cleaning goes!

    yeah get a standard one, they're far cheaper :).
    nope don't bother with the silicon oil. If you're only really worried about the cleaning of the barrel there's little point. just use water when cleaning the barrel :) if you decide to use silicon make sure you run a dry bit of cloth through the barrel after, well do this for water too but especially with silicon just to make sure you get it all out of the barrel.
    Silicon oil is good for moving parts in GBB pistol and rifles. In an AEG it can only cause problems.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 7,067 ✭✭✭MarkY91


    T4RGET wrote: »
    yeah get a standard one, they're far cheaper :).
    nope don't bother with the silicon oil. If you're only really worried about the cleaning of the barrel there's little point. just use water when cleaning the barrel :) if you decide to use silicon make sure you run a dry bit of cloth through the barrel after, well do this for water too but especially with silicon just to make sure you get it all out of the barrel.
    Silicon oil is good for moving parts in GBB pistol and rifles. In an AEG it can only cause problems.

    oh really? so i can just clean it with water and a tissue? so after i get this rod, i could possibly have a more accurate gun?


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭T4RGET


    MarkY91 wrote: »
    oh really? so i can just clean it with water and a tissue? so after i get this rod, i could possibly have a more accurate gun?

    yeah. Get some cloth, tissue paper can go all mushy and fall apart in your barrel. Just use a damp bit of cloth, not wet. I should really clarify :). Well cleaning probably won't make all that much of a difference unless it's literally filthy. But yeah use damp cloth and the cleaning rod, then keep cleaning the barrel till the cloth comes out clean.

    Don't expect to reach people out at like 80 metres really is my advice, it'll likely never happen. I can reach people at 55 accurately and 65 at a push and a few tracer BB's for guidance :)


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