Beretta auto stock makeover

Beretta man

Gave my beretta a face lift few weeks ago due to marks and chips being taken out of the stock from going in and out of gun cabinet
I'm delighted with the results

Beretta man

And another

deerhunter1

Beretta man wrote: »

And another

Nice job,well done

cw67irl

Very nice job!!!

ronn

have you any before and after pics, gives us some details of what you done with the stock,
Great job btw

Beretta man

This was the gun before
I stripped it down with Nitromirs and sanded down with fine sandpaper
The oil I used was 6-7 coats of tru oil
And rubbed down with 1000 wire wool between coats

1shot16

Plan to refinish my cz 452 lux stock using the birchwood and casey kit (true oil , walnut stain , stock sheen , sand paper ,steel wool ) after my sub comes though already 3 weeks nearly.I have a beechwood stock,Just wondering what can i use to remove the old finish?Anyone do a refinish to a cz stock?

pedroeibar1

Tru-Oil is a great product on modern guns but not good on a ‘classic’ shotgun because it looks off as the finish is too ‘wrong.’ It’s a vegetable oil to which product (‘driers’) has been added to speed the drying time, then heated in an oxygen-free environment to a temperature of about 250degC. This polymerizes the oil which makes it set quickly, dry to a very hard finish and really resist water/damp.
A few hints –
The key is good preparation. If you are using nitromorous as a stripper make sure to neutralise the wood afterwards, before starting work on oiling the stock (use pure alcohol.)If you are cleaning out the chequering, used wooden cocktail sticks.
I cannot understand why so many recommend steelwool – it is horrible to work with, it leaves bits and if there is any magnetism it will stick to the metal. If the stock is really bad after you have sweated out the dings, ensure you mask the chequering; some use tape, some of the old pro’s use molten candle grease. Then use some tru oil with wet&dry sandpaper - wrap a little square around an eraser, start with P200, (if stock is not bad start at P600) then work up to P600, P800, P1200. The friction creates a little heat, the wood pores open and the ‘slurry’ fills the pores giving a deeper and better finish.
Be very careful at the edges – make sure to keep the sanding block flat otherwise it will result in a rounded edge that will look cr@p against the action or the butt plate.
Remember that the oil will darken the wood so be very careful with the use of wood stain. Probably cheaper to buy the items separately, the kits are expensive.

Beretta man

I've bought trade secrets oil kit to my grade 3 o/u as I don't want the tru oil look
It's a nice piece of wood so should turn out nice

1shot16

Was thinking of going with woodstripper but seen some people on youtube sanding or just using sanding mesh,The mesh method takes the finish right off!