Help with transit mk5

moodrater

Waiting for paint to dry here literally :pac: had a look and found schematic:

R8 is for ECU, R6 for ignition







Hard to read but big ones at the bottom are r4 r5 r6 and small ones vertically at the right are r7 r8 and r10

"Start by checking the PCM relay and ignition relays in the fuse box under the bonnet, with the ignition on terminals 1 and 3 on both relays should have 12 volts to them, check that pin 2 on both relays is an earth. Pin 5 of the PCM relay supplies fuses 11, 26, 28 and 29 in the same fuse box under the bonnet, check that there is 12 volts to these fuses."

vinniem

moodrater wrote: »

Waiting for paint to dry here literally :pac: had a look and found schematic:

R8 is for ECU, R6 for ignition







Hard to read but big ones at the bottom are r4 r5 r6 and small ones vertically at the right are r7 r8 and r10

"Start by checking the PCM relay and ignition relays in the fuse box under the bonnet, with the ignition on terminals 1 and 3 on both relays should have 12 volts to them, check that pin 2 on both relays is an earth. Pin 5 of the PCM relay supplies fuses 11, 26, 28 and 29 in the same fuse box under the bonnet, check that there is 12 volts to these fuses."

Moodrater thanks for going to all that bother i appreciate it, that's my job for tomorrow now :-) hopefully I find a rouge relay or something. Will let you know, thanks again

bigroad

vinniem wrote: »

Thanks bigroad, without trying to sound too stupid but wheres the earthstrap?

the battery under the bonnet should have an earth from negitave to the van body.Check that connections are secure.Its a few years since i worked on one so only going from memory.
Is yours a 2.5d or 2.5td.Oh yea check all fuses that are related.
Take off the ignition cowl and there should be about four wires going into the back ,get your power tester and check power with key off and in number 1 position then no 2 position.

Checking relays while installed is a little finicky because they have to be plugged in to check them unless you want to remove them and bench test them which takes longer and you need a 12VDC power source.
If they're not potted in don't-open-me-gunk then you can remove the covers and see the gubbins but I'd advise extreme caution with the ignition relay; standing with a head under the bonnet you could get yourself in a lot of trouble from all kinds of sources. Even I'd take that one out to bench test it.

The ECU relay is fair game although maybe just take both inside and do what you can with them out of circuit.
In circuit you have to prise the relay up enough to get the probe in under it against the spade you are testing but with a narrow enough gap that the relay is still making good connections also without shorting the probe against another spade (leave the negative probe on the chassis).
It may or may not be easier probe from behind the relay box.

[the numbers are written on the underside of the relay...they may be a variation or no numbers in some cases which it a pain. Parantheses numbers are corresponding numbers from Moodrater's wiring doc. find]

Out of circuit (having removed the relay to expose the sockets) at the relay box with the ignition on stage one you should have
Socket 30 (3): 12V always
Socket 87 (5): OL (open circuit)...come back to this later if nothing else is amiss.
Socket 86 (1): Switched live (by ignition key for ECU) {I don't know what that's switched by for the ignition..here be dragons (off the map)}
Socket 85 (2): Ground

On the relay
Pin 86 to 85 (1 & 2): continuity with a resistance of tens of ohms (could be well over 100Ω on the ignition relay)
Pin 30 to pin 87 (3 & 5): open circuit....until you apply 12v positive to pin 86 and negative to pin 85. When you energise the relay coil (86 to +12v and 85 to 0V) then you ought to have continuity between pins 30 and 87. You'll also hear/feel it click.
Open circuit all other combinations.

Often blade fuses can be checked in circuit, you don't have to pull them. The newer ones have two test points behind the blades on the top. You can just buzz these for continuity with the meter.

moodrater

Just checking f18 and f26 for 12v should eliminate the relays really. Hopefully you'll find one has no 12v with ignition on can work back,

F18 is only live while cranking though?

moodrater

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

F18 is only live while cranking though?

Nope its on in the run position supplies lights, sensors loads of clobber.

vinniem

moodrater wrote: »

Nope its on in the run position supplies lights, sensors loads of clobber.

Lads got it going with ye're help thanks a million. Under bonnet ecu and ignition relays, got my 12vdc on pins 1 and 3. Noticed a little bit of green corrosion dust in sockets, cleaned with small screw driver.. Sanded all four pins of each relay and put back into sockets. Each and every time turned key getting all ignition lights and done at least 50 times with same result. So problem solved, thanks moodrater and sir liamsalot and others for all your help. :-)

Happy Days. Kudos.
50 starts! Might want to charge up that starter battery again.
Bench charger will do a better job than the alternator.

vinniem

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

Happy Days. Kudos.
50 starts! Might want to charge up that starter battery again.
Bench charger will do a better job than the alternator.

Thanks :-) well didn't crank 50 times just first key position. Have a good ring bench charger, will juice em up later. Typically what voltage should a healthy battery sit at after a few days?

moodrater

vinniem wrote: »

Lads got it going with ye're help thanks a million. Under bonnet ecu and ignition relays, got my 12vdc on pins 1 and 3. Noticed a little bit of green corrosion dust in sockets, cleaned with small screw driver.. Sanded all four pins of each relay and put back into sockets. Each and every time turned key getting all ignition lights and done at least 50 times with same result. So problem solved, thanks moodrater and sir liamsalot and others for all your help. :-)

I'd douse it in contact cleaner and check the cover and grommets for likely leaks. If you had brought it to ford they would probably have fitted a new ignition switch, new ecu, and new fuse box :pac:

vinniem

vinniem wrote: »

Typically what voltage should a healthy battery sit at after a few days?

12.8v but I wouldn't worry about it until 12.3v (sulphation threshold) or dropping below 9.5v cranking.
My starter sits at about 12.4v/12.5v after years of running the radio for hours/days with the engine off. It misses the odd time, I don't think I'll get another winter outtov it...of course I said that last year too. I just give it a solar boost in the mornings before setting off, not so big a concern with another 60kg of house batteries to reinforce it if needed.

Just thinking...maybe a good idea eyeball the rest of your fuse/relay box for more corrosion...preventative maintenance.

moodrater

moodrater wrote: »

If you had brought it to ford they would probably have fitted a new ignition switch, new ecu, and new fuse box :pac:

True that. You just saved yourself the price of a top of the range multimeter Vinniem!

vinniem

moodrater wrote: »

I'd douse it in contact cleaner and check the cover and grommets for likely leaks. If you had brought it to ford they would probably have fitted a new ignition switch, new ecu, and new fuse box :pac:

Very true moodrater, they would make most of it :-) but thanks to ye guys on here have saved a packet.. Happy days