toastedpickles Saab 900 lpt build

sblythe

That's a fantastic looking car man. I'd love to get my hands on a Saab 900, they're gorgeous cars and look the part. Seems like you are putting some great work into this one too, fair play.

toastedpickles

sblythe wrote: »

That's a fantastic looking car man. I'd love to get my hands on a Saab 900, they're gorgeous cars and look the part. Seems like you are putting some great work into this one too, fair play.

Thanks very much I want to get it as good as i can

toastedpickles

So the last post for today, the water pump, handy enough to do, the hardest part of this was getting the old gasket off

To begin undo these 4 10mm nuts



And the pulley comes away, if not, gentle tap of a mallet does the trick!

Next the waterpump itself, 5 12mm nuts, but there's two longer ones, these two guys



So take them out and hit the pump off with your mallet again




After this I took a stanley blade to the surface and scraped off the remaining bits of gasket, after about half an hour I took the sandpaper to it and got it as clean as i could, then out with out good friend dirko again!

So you put a bead on the new waterpump, then stick the new gasket on, then more dirko on the gasket



Then get the two long bolts and get it lined up, fit the rest and torque them up



Then put the belts back on the pulley, and slot the pulley back onto the housing, it might take a couple of go's but once you have them lined up, stick in the 10mm screws and call it a day

And that's how to do a 900 waterpump!

toastedpickles

Got the last bits done today which were new ignition leads, rocker cover gasket spark plugs and a bit of cleaning here and there

So i focussed on the main block today



Take off the centre piece to show the spark plugs, out with your tippex pen to label each lead, comes in useful as to which new one is which etc



14mm spark plug socket and out come the old plugs, which were still in a decent condition , new and old



Then i took off the rocker cover, first time i seen underneath it, looks as clean as anything!



Then out with good ol dirko sealant and a thin bead was put around the rocker cover itself, gasket installed, put back on the block and each nut torqued to 15Nm going in a circular fashion from the middle

So that's the engine work done! going to do a bit more spraying and stuff now, and then back in it goes

toastedpickles

Just bought an intercooler for 20 quid, my first upgrade :rolleyes: -wipes away tear-

toastedpickles

And last but not least......this

toyotaavensis

can you not get classic insurance on her?

toastedpickles

Nah I'm too young, only 23

toastedpickles

Collected my intercooler today I might need a bit more than what i have



I also put new boots on the driveshafts, or cv joints to be really specific



After this and a new order of parts I went and got to the tie rods and ball joints

Most came out with no hassle but there's always one :rolleyes: Not even a vice could get it to stay in place



So!




Came right out then, the other one on the other hub was so badly rusted and seized that it took 2 blocks and a breaker bar to get the separator to....separate it :pac: it then decided to shoot across my driveway
Dat force

Currently waiting on new top/bottom ball joints, tie rods, and calipers, discs and pads,

its starting to come back together

toastedpickles

the other one on the other hub was so badly rusted and seized that it took 2 blocks and a breaker bar to get the separator to....separate it it then decided to shoot across my driveway
Dat force

The brother was kindly filming the event unknowingly to myself

Hal1

Those ball joint breakers are shíte but they just about work. I used a piece of metal on the base of the tie rod end bolt for leverage and out she came.

toastedpickles

Hal1 wrote: »

Those ball joint breakers are shíte but they just about work. I used a piece of metal on the base of the tie rod end bolt for leverage and out she came.

Yeah it does tie rods no bother, but the ball joint was seized solid and I don't think anything else i have would've got it done, but its out now!

Hal1

I've a can of butane gas for such occasions .

toastedpickles

Hal1 wrote: »

I've a can of butane gas for such occasions .

I must invest in some of that

TheBody

With the noise of all the cars in the background, it sounds like you are working on the car on the side of the M50!


Great thread. Keep the pics coming!

toastedpickles

TheBody wrote: »

With the noise of all the cars in the background, it sounds like you are working on the car on the side of the M50!


Great thread. Keep the pics coming!

Haha thanks I've no empty shed or anything to work in, so I've to do it outside at the car, does the job like :P

More fun and games soon

toastedpickles

It's beginning to look like a car again today seen the arb being refitted, along with the new bushings, steering rack back in and the engine bay being resprayed, along with a piece on the side, it's not great, but it'l do me

I torqued the inner anti roll bar nuts to 10Nm and the bolts for the steering rack to 70Nm as the guide says between 60/80Nm

So pictures!

Everything that's visible back in



And the bay painted



Again, not the best but it'l do me grand, lastly the side, again, bit shoddy, but you can't really see it, took this with a flash on

toastedpickles

So today i got the old callipers off, I've a new refurbed set for 15 euro each and 3 months warranty, win!

Lets begin!

Started off by clamping the brake hose, to stop whatever fluid is left from leaking off, saab use a "special tool" so here's my "special tool"



I then took it off from where the brake line connects to the hose, as the smaller one was stuck, theres also a 10mm bracket you need to take off too,



To get the bracket off took some ingenuity, this is where one of my detailing buckets proved most useful :pac:



And the calliper off, when it was off i had more leverage to get the brake line off, and then i reattached it to the hose



I had also been experimenting with a cheap way to remove rust, heard that malt vinegar does the job so i gave it a go with some nuts and bolts, i forgot about them so here's what i pulled out



some brass brushing later




Next few days should see the new brake set up coming and the ball joint, steering set up, then the 9-5 is getting a bit of work done, and then the engine is going back in this!

toastedpickles

So after making bits of my exam today i came home and celebrated.....with buns :cool:



Also this showed up



In todays box of tricks we have

2 rebuilt brake calipers
4 brake pads - extra meaty
2 brake discs - extra meaty - see photo below
4 balljoints
2 tie rods

Photo of said discs



They're much bigger than the standard ones, gona get round to fitting all this once i have the engine back in my possession which shall be soon!

YbFocus

Great to hear on the test man, delighted for ya!

toastedpickles

YbFocus wrote: »

Great to hear on the test man, delighted for ya!

Cheers! The harder one is tomorrow, the maths, so hopefully I'll do enough to get by

toastedpickles

the engine is finally coming home sometime tomorrow it'l be and being wired back in

jack of all

toastedpickles wrote: »

I had also been experimenting with a cheap way to remove rust, heard that malt vinegar does the job so i gave it a go with some nuts and bolts, i forgot about them so here's what i pulled out

Vinegar works alright but I've found a quicker way- buy some of the "limescale" remover from Lidl, W5 brand, it's a concentrated acid gel of some kind. I dilute it with some water in a glass jug and heat it in a microwave before adding it to the container with metal to be de-rusted. It works very well, especially if the mix is good and hot and works out a little cheaper than vinegar. Needs a good rinse and wire brushing after, I think the acid neutralises the rust and leaves a black oxide in it's place.

toastedpickles

jack of all wrote: »

Vinegar works alright but I've found a quicker way- buy some of the "limescale" remover from Lidl, W5 brand, it's a concentrated acid gel of some kind. I dilute it with some water in a glass jug and heat it in a microwave before adding it to the container with metal to be de-rusted. It works very well, especially if the mix is good and hot and works out a little cheaper than vinegar. Needs a good rinse and wire brushing after, I think the acid neutralises the rust and leaves a black oxide in it's place.

Ahhh right! I'll invest in some of that next time I've money, thanks for the tip!

toastedpickles

So as I stuck it in the picture thread i'll plop it here too, the engine is back where it belongs



Tomorrow I'll start rewiring everything back in and installing what i can

toastedpickles

And the progress starts again, took the lambada sensor, or what was left of it out and stuck in the new one
The old, complete with missing wires





And the new shiny one



In where it belongs!



I also now have a rear mirror!



So i carried on with rewiring everything back up when i got to the altenator this greeted me



So i need to either get a new connection, or find this on another 900 and solder them together

Battery terminals back in along with the tray



It's beginning to look like a car again

commited

Great work man! Re that connector, it's a relatively simple 1 wire connection so a good pair of crimped connectors should do the job fine

toastedpickles

commited wrote: »

Great work man! Re that connector, it's a relatively simple 1 wire connection so a good pair of crimped connectors should do the job fine

And so we take our first step into the scary world of wiring

Need to get a few connectors so, have a crimping tool

YbFocus

... runs and hides ...

:pac:

toastedpickles

YbFocus wrote: »

... runs and hides ...

:pac:

This genuinely made me laugh :pac: