2003 Ducato Wheel Rims "failing"

Malta1

Hi All

Over the last year, we have had 2 wheel rims "fail" on or 2003 Ducato. Basically the steel (or a weld on the inside) of the rim have fail.......leaking air....basically a puncture without the tyre being damaged :eek:

At this stage, were going to replace all wheel rims - if 2 have gone, the other 2 will follow shortly.
Is there a known lifespan of sheel wheel rims?
Anybody got any suggestions as to where to invest in a set of rims?

Cheers

moodrater

Well you could look for a secondhand set with good tyres always pays for itself I was looking at alloys for ours and the team dynamics scorpion alloys were about all I could find other than rebranded chinese ones.

Tube 'em.

Maybe even sandblast and re-prime them while you're at it.

Aidan_M_M

I probably see more "Duke" rims than anyone else here? And I've never had one to fail , from the 88 chassis up to new.

Re Tubes , @ Liam , IIRC they don't take tubes well , the location of the valve hole tends to chafe the valve area on the tube.

moodrater

Malta1 wrote: »

Hi All

Over the last year, we have had 2 wheel rims "fail" on or 2003 Ducato. Basically the steel (or a weld on the inside) of the rim have fail.......leaking air....basically a puncture without the tyre being damaged :eek:

At this stage, were going to replace all wheel rims - if 2 have gone, the other 2 will follow shortly.
Is there a known lifespan of sheel wheel rims?
Anybody got any suggestions as to where to invest in a set of rims?

Cheers

I see donagheys have the rims on their site.

Aidan_M_M

Aidan_M_M wrote: »

Re Tubes , @ Liam , IIRC they don't take tubes well , the location of the valve hole tends to chafe the valve area on the tube.

You'd get ten tubes for the price of one rim iirc, maybe six by the time you pay a man with a machine to fit them. You can silicon paste the valve on install. I'm sure your advice is best, mine's just a cheap alternative.
I'd sandblast them first if I was in the same boat.

They never fail, they'll serve as jack stands decades after they're no use as wheels.

moodrater

I'd just put some oko/slime in them the tyre places will pump it in for about 7 euro a wheel or a bottle it about €10 in the motorfactors. My lawn tractor tyres were completely porous wouldn't make a few trips round the garden and I put oko in and haven't pumped them in 2 years. Also had a slow puncture on a hiace rim that was corroded and its done the trick for 3 years now.

niloc1951

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

You'd get ten tubes for the price of one rim iirc, maybe six by the time you pay a man with a machine to fit them. You can silicon paste the valve on install. I'm sure your advice is best, mine's just a cheap alternative.
I'd sandblast them first if I was in the same boat.

They never fail, they'll serve as jack stands decades after they're no use as wheels.

With respect, cheap should not be part of the vocabulary when speaking about that black circle which separates a safe and sure motoring experience from the catastrophe associated with a blow-out or loss of control on a bad/wet road.

It amazes me how people will strive for premium everything from beer to meat to child seats and footwear but will settle for cheap budget priced tyres and dodgy puncture repairs

niloc1951

niloc1951 wrote: »

With respect, cheap should not be part of the vocabulary when speaking about that black circle which separates a safe and sure motoring experience from the catastrophe associated with a blow-out or loss of control on a bad/wet road.

I'm not sure how adding a tube to a tubeless tyre is more likely to cause a blowout. Generally low pressure tyres have more traction if there's a minor leak and would be visible anyway.
I'm running on one tubed tyre after some c*** stabbed it. It's not giving me anywhere near the bother an odd tyre might imho.

Tyres are the most important part of the vehicle I've no illusion of that. As a matter of course I'd rather repair over renew as an ecological issue if it'll do the job as well, more so than financial. I'm not convinced it's a dodgey repair, happy to be corrected all the same even by my own aforementioned wheel.

If say the lug nuts were untapping or I had to drive on the rim to escape the evil dead then I'd replace the rim. Other than that I'd clean it up and see how it holds.

niloc1951

This advice from Avon sums it up.
http://www.avonmotorsport.com/resource-centre/tube-fitment

Malta1

Hi All

Eventually decided to change the 4 rims
After much searching, I contacted Donagheys in Donegal and to say that they came up trumps would be a huge understatement

After a bit of tooing and frowing to ensure that they had the right rims, the rims were eventually ordered on Friday and arrived on Monday. Packaging was top class

The whole time I was dealing with Donagheys, I felt that they were totally on top of their game - well done Paul & Co

PS During the transaction Paul did ask if I happen to know anybody that might get him an All Ireland Ticket for Sunday. Given the service that I got from them, I'm putting a shout out that if anybody can help them out, drop me a PM and I will pass over the guys details

pastense

niloc1951 wrote: »

With respect, cheap should not be part of the vocabulary when speaking about that black circle which separates a safe and sure motoring experience from the catastrophe associated with a blow-out or loss of control on a bad/wet road.

It amazes me how people will strive for premium everything from beer to meat to child seats and footwear but will settle for cheap budget priced tyres

The 'camping tyre' at up to and more than double the price of a 'white van' tyre which is rated for the same weight carrying ability and to strict Euro standards etc etc makes those very tyres look 'cheap' but there are millions of safe miles travelled with them.

Cheap is a very relative term and often its use denigrates something that is anything but 'cheap' but represents better value while being perfectly adequate for the job.

A better value solution which is safe is always smart but not always fashionable.

moodrater

pastense wrote: »

The 'camping tyre' at up to and more than double the price of a 'white van' tyre which is rated for the same weight carrying ability and to strict Euro standards etc etc makes those very tyres look 'cheap' but there are millions of safe miles travelled with them.

Cheap is a very relative term and often its use denigrates something that is anything but 'cheap' but represents better value while being perfectly adequate for the job.

A better value solution which is safe is always smart but not always fashionable.

He wasn't suggesting we all put on camper tyres. Euro standards or no euro standards there are some godawful dangerous tyres being sold, nankang, linglong, bct (sounds like a spike milligan poem) etc. etc. Take for example the euro wetgrip scale goes to G currently a tyre with a rating of G could take 50% further to stop why would anyone put something like that on their car.

I agree though that cheap doesn't necessarily mean bad and its not just cheap brands either, you'll find bridgestone, hankook, yokohama, federal and other have tyres that are dreadful in the wet.

The thing about cheaper brands that do perform well though is they usually achieve good grip by using soft compounds and they never work out cheap in the long run.

Last week the local tyre guy was trying to get me to buy some chinese ****e tyres with E rolling resistance, F wetgrip and 200 treadwear! For the same price I left with a hankook tyre that topped german tests with C rolling resistance, B wet grip, 350 treadwear and 3db quieter (half the noise).

niloc1951

pastense wrote: »

The 'camping tyre' at up to and more than double the price of a 'white van' tyre which is rated for the same weight carrying ability and to strict Euro standards etc etc makes those very tyres look 'cheap' but there are millions of safe miles travelled with them.

Cheap is a very relative term and often its use denigrates something that is anything but 'cheap' but represents better value while being perfectly adequate for the job.

A better value solution which is safe is always smart but not always fashionable.

When using the word cheap I was referring to inferior quality, which is usually legal and meets minimum standards.

With regards CP tyres, sure ordinary commercial tyres will have the same load rating. However, CP tyres are specifically designed to carry maximum loading full time and have an increased safety margin to tolerate over loading better. The high pressure of 5.5 bar will also result in the tyre running cooler than commercial tyres which can only run at a maximum of 4.5 bar. The db (road noise) rating is better than most commercial vehicle tyres.

But at the end of the day it's a personal choice.

Aidan_M_M

moodrater wrote: »

I'd just put some oko/slime in them the tyre places will pump it in for about 7 euro a wheel or a bottle it about €10 in the motorfactors..

have you still got that bottle? Any "Oko" style product I've seen is for Agri and plant use , and low speed vehicles like your wheelbarrow or tractor , not cars and vans.

Sir Liamalot wrote: »

I'm not sure how adding a tube to a tubeless tyre is more likely to cause a blowout. Generally low pressure tyres have more traction if there's a minor leak and would be visible anyway. .

Because , Liam , a lot of newer rims that are designed to be tubeless fit , the hole for the valve is at a different angle and as such can tear or chafe the valve on a tube . Also most tubeless tires out now aren't smooth inside , they have loads of corrugations that also abrade the tube . I used to fit a lot of tires and mend a lot of punctures.....

2 years on her tubed now and going strong.

Can't believe the thread wear I'm getting off a set of Starmax. Looks like it'll be a few more years before I get around to taking yer good advise.

20yo rims though.