Transplanting hedging

Arddon

Can anybody advise if it is possible to plant hedging in a field (hawthorn/hazel/other) and let it grow before transplanting...

If it is possible, how long can it be let grow for & what is the replanting success rate?

Are some species easier to transplant than others etc...

thanks

Oldtree

It is but you would have much more success if you planted in the permanent planting position, initially. Is there a reason you can't do this? (if you don't mind me asking)

Arddon

sure, i cant plant in permanent position as it doesnt exist yet

i need to remove existing hedging along road to get sight lines and i would like to
replace it with "mature" hedging, or as mature as possible.

there is the possibility of transplanting the existing hedging but the hedge is predominantly briars, weeds etc, with the odd piece of hawthorn, so its not overly appealing to be replanting it, maybe some of the hawthorn if possible

the entire hedge does not need to be removed, but maybe 30metres...

Oldtree

Have you considered coppicing the existing hedge (best done in winter but can be done mid summer) to be cut to the height that you require, allowing space for the rapid shooting that will follow ie sightline? Or even layering the existing hedge? and then planting whips (small plants usually bareroot) into the gaps in winter.

If it is being done for sightlines then any replacement hedge would need to be trimmed very regularly too.

greysides

If you are replacing one hedge with another in the same soil I'd consider trying to revitalise the soil between the two. Commercial producers of quicks/other hedging will transplant them (+/-undercutting) during the production process so if you are growing your own from the beginning it should be possible to move it from a nursery ground to the final position. Hawthorn is considered the king of hedges but a little diversity through it could brighten up the plant at different times of year. Avoid blackthorn which suckers out though.

Oldtree

Yes I am all for a mixed native hedge, and generally they take a good annual pruning easily too.

http://www.teagasc.ie/environment/heritage/Hedgerows.asp

info leaflets
http://www.teagasc.ie/environment/Publications/Leaflets.asp

Oldtree

here is a list of native trees:

http://www.nativewoodlandtrust.ie/en/learn/irish-trees

lazybones32

What the nurseries do is grow the hedges in sand and pull them up for customers as needed. The larger ones are grown in pots or taken from the soil using specialised machines.
A lot depends on when you will be transplanting the trees too. If it'll be in the next 2 years, it won't be worth the effort to grow them for transplanting because the amount of growth will probably be unnoticeable. If it'll be another 5 years before you intend on transplanting, you could make a little drill for them somewhere using a lot of sand in the sand mix but be sure to add fertiliser (or some rotted manure if it's limey builders sand)
Transplant any tree during dormancy and not when ground is frozen.

Arddon

Thanks for all the replies folks, lots of useful info.

The existing hedge is hawthorn, and I like hawthorn, but the suggestion of mixing it up is interesting - what would work well mixed in with hawthorn ?

The point of growing the hedge in the sand drill is interesting , I had been thinking would it b possible/practical to grow my new hedge in pots from cuttings, and maintain in the pots until time of planting. I'd b guessing time of planting would be 2-4yrs. Or should I buy bare root & do same?

I was also thinking the same regarding trees, I will want to plant trees on the site, but in this case I'm probably best buying them & planting them in their final position... As opposed to growing them in a spot and replanting in a final position at a later date...

TomOnBoard

While I understand what you are trying to do, and the reasons why, there's just a word of warning about the approach- generally if you plant a hedge (unless using evergreens) it is often cut well down in order to encourage thick growth from the butt. If you grow the hedging in a drill (especially if plants are close together) there is a good chance they will grow up thin and 'leggy', so when you transplant them, you may have lots of holes at the bottom.

I'd plan for Oldtree's approach ie layering the existing, coupled with inter-planting of other species in the gaps at fairly regular intervals. You will be able to start planting seeds or cuttings as soon as you get them to build up your bank of target species. Also grow your trees in pot asap and if you look after them, they'll plant out no problem, even if they're quite big.

You will be able to start the layering process from September up to March of the year you get your hands on the hedge.

lazybones32

Bare-root whips will be on sale from November and most species are between 50c and 1 euro. It'd be better to buy these and grow them in pots until time for planting rather than trying to grow your own stock. Growing your own is interesting but slow.

Oldtree

and buy them in early November to get the best plants and store until you intend to plant out. don't forget to give the roots the once over.

Arddon

That's a good idea re potting the trees & buying them in November rather than growing my own. How big would the pots need to be?

Is it also possible to buy mature trees & are they expensive?

Could I also plant the hedging in pots and "grow" it in pots for a couple of years. Or is this a stupid idea?

greysides

Arddon wrote: »

Is it also possible to buy mature trees & are they expensive?

Yes.

Could I also plant the hedging in pots and "grow" it in pots for a couple of years. Or is this a stupid idea?

Nothing to stop it being done but you risk them getting root bound.

Personally, without knowing what's best, my preference would be to plant out in a nursery bed. They could be root-pruned before lifting if deemed necessary.

It's generally recommended not to buy trees that are too mature, that younger trees will root and take off better. I've seen this myself but it's hard at times to resist the allure of instant gratification.

My preference would be for a feathered whip about 2 (maybe 3) y.o. that's been transplanted. About 4-5' high.

However, I'm a gardener not a horticulturist.

Oldtree

Arddon wrote: »

That's a good idea re potting the trees & buying them in November rather than growing my own. How big would the pots need to be?

You can buy the whips in bunches of 25.

Whip size can vary, my preference is for what is called 90-120's (90cm to 120cm tall plants in the bunch). This allows for a sizable root that will have reserves for the plant to settle in, after pruning back some of the top of the plant to get it to bush out.

A healing in bed is where the trees are stored, I wouldn't store them in pots above ground as frost could damage the roots. Dig a hole, big enough for the bunch of roots, angle the plants in the hole pointing away from the prevailing wind, and cover over the roots thickly with soil. This will protect the roots until you are ready to plant out and it is easy to pull the bunch out of the ground. Only pull up what you intend to plant that day.

Have a big plastic bag handy to cover the roots as soon as you pull them up. This will prevent the roots drying out. I would splash in a bit of water into the bag over the roots too. Close off the opening of the bag with string. When removing a plant when planting, tighten the top of the plastic bag again to prevent drying out of the roots, and when putting the bag on the ground point the opening of the bag away from the wind direction. All this may seem silly, but roots that dry out will damage the plant and thus your success rate.

Arddon wrote: »

Is it also possible to buy mature trees & are they expensive?

Yes but larger trees are more expensive, require much more maintenance, have less of a success rate and will be soon surpassed by the planting of smaller trees. Not really worth it unless you want instant impact and is not a good option for the long term.

Arddon wrote: »

Could I also plant the hedging in pots and "grow" it in pots for a couple of years. Or is this a stupid idea?

You could, but huge maintenance (constant watering) and as mentioned unless potted on regularly will soon become potbound, and you would have to buy loads of pots. Stability of planting out potted plants I have found to be a problem too, depending on how quick they can grow. I cannot see this approach being cost effective.

There is no rushing a hedge and rather than messing around you would be better off buying bear root whips in the winter you intend to plant them out. This will also prove to be a better hedge in the long term.

Saying all that there is nothing like growing your own plants, I do.

greysides

Oldtree wrote: »

Saying all that there is nothing like growing your own plants, I do.

Whitethorn... from seed or cuttings?

I saw Hazel once that looked as though it came from cuttings. I would have guessed seed.

Oldtree

This year I am rooting 3 types of willow and poplar cuttings, and apples from seed to use as a grafting stock. It is small scale but rewarding. I havn't grown whitethorn from seed as I don't need it, but I have rooted a single red hawthorn cutting to see could I do it. Nothing on a commercial scale though, more out of interest.

It is going to be a good seed year this year I think, lots of plants seem to be setting heavy with seed. My beech is covered with pods like I have never seen before, sycamore and horse chestnut lots too, Ash not as much as last year and Hazel is going to be a good year too, the squirrels will be delighted.

greysides

My claim to fame is that I once rooted a Eucalyptus cutting. Usually grown from seed. Red hawthorn... 'Paul's Scarlet'?

Oldtree

yes a pauls scarlett. I am still waiting for the cutting to flower a decade later but it is in a hedge. I rooted a Kilmarnock willow cutting to for the fun of it and then trained it up to have its own stem around a stick. The poor thing needs support from the bendy stem... ah well:rolleyes: