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gearbox reassebly

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  • 24-08-2014 3:18pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭


    Guys

    I just spent the last two hours tying to reassemble a G&G V2 gearbox. for the life of me I cant prevent the anti reverse latch or the trigger from popping. So I'm asking is there anyone in North Dublin or The City Centre that could offer a helping hand. I'll throw you some beer money. this thing is doing my head in.


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,446 ✭✭✭brenak47


    Put a big lump of grease in the hole for the anti reverse latch this will keep it in place long enough.As for the trigger u must not have the spring set in right if it keeps popping.U tube is very help full for little tips.Hope u get it sorted nothing worse.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭Faolchu


    Cheers Bren didn't have the cylinder head in far enough.

    New problem. She's making all the right noises but not firing the bbs. If I take the mag out there's three or four in the mag well and in one instance one in the hop chamber. Hop is off.

    What I did was change the air nozzle and cylinder head also put a new O ring on the piston head. Greased her up struggled for hours but eventually geor it together.

    If I take the barrel off and basically have the air nozzle exposes and dry fire I can fee air puffing. If I block the nozzle with my finger the blow back functions so to a noob like me the gear box is drawing the air in and doing what it should.

    Should there be much movement on the air nozzle? Like could I move it with my fingers easy enough? My understanding is the nozLe moves in and out of the chamber to load bbs into the barrel. Would I be right?


  • Registered Users Posts: 523 ✭✭✭ShRT


    Yes the air nozzle should move each time to allow the BB to feed. When you push the nozzle it should be sprung.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,446 ✭✭✭brenak47


    This has happened to me before and it was the cylinder head as it was the only think i changed.Check your cylinder head for wobble as in not fitting the cylinder properly. U will have to reopen gearbox to check this.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭Faolchu


    The cylinder head I put in was tighter than a prom queen. I figured I'd have to strip the bugger again. Still more practice :) might as well shim it while I'm in there


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,006 ✭✭✭Southern Dandy


    Sounds like you forgot to attach the spring to the tappet plate to me, lost count how many times I've done this!.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭Faolchu


    Sounds like you forgot to attach the spring to the tappet plate to me, lost count how many times I've done this!.
    I'm thinking either that or instead of the tappet plate attaching to the air nozzle I have it sitting in front of or behind it if you know what i mean so the nozzle hasnt got a full range of motion. I'll know tonight :mad:

    I did put lube between the cylinder head and air nozzle. I would assume this wouldnt cause too much trouble.


  • Registered Users Posts: 523 ✭✭✭ShRT


    A small bit of grease between nozzle and cylinder head can help with air seal so it's not a bad thing to have it in there (not as good as an oring but better than nothing) Just don't over do it. Too much and the excess will come out and end up on the hop up bucking and you don't want that!


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭Faolchu


    the nozzle I have has an inner o ring so I'll just clean up the grease I put in and see if it improves it. I'll clean the hop as well while i'm at it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭Faolchu


    seems like the tappet plate was infront of the air nozzle and not connected to it. tooke me almost 4 hours in tital to reassemble teh bugger first time out so I probably knocked it out in frustration :mad:. anyway last night it went together seamlessly. didnt get to test fire it but I will later. thanks guys


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  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭T4RGET


    Faolchu wrote: »
    seems like the tappet plate was infront of the air nozzle and not connected to it. tooke me almost 4 hours in tital to reassemble teh bugger first time out so I probably knocked it out in frustration :mad:. anyway last night it went together seamlessly. didnt get to test fire it but I will later. thanks guys

    once you get used to taking these things apart they should go back together really easily especially G&G GB's. Love G&G's gearboxes, they're amazing to work on i think.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭Faolchu


    yeah the first night it was frustration compounded with no work surface so I was kneeling on the floor doing it. then that damn trigger poped out. but over all it seems straight forward enough to reasemble. I'm sure if I went the whole hog and did wiring, trigger contacts etc then it might have been worse but that blow back feature thats a pain in the nuts. I lost that little C clip on a black stone floor. 15 minutes on my hands and knees with a torch looking for it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,901 ✭✭✭T4RGET


    Faolchu wrote: »
    yeah the first night it was frustration compounded with no work surface so I was kneeling on the floor doing it. then that damn trigger poped out. but over all it seems straight forward enough to reasemble. I'm sure if I went the whole hog and did wiring, trigger contacts etc then it might have been worse but that blow back feature thats a pain in the nuts. I lost that little C clip on a black stone floor. 15 minutes on my hands and knees with a torch looking for it.

    That sucks :(. If i use any metal pieces I usually get a really bright torch and use my SHS motor. You'd be surprised how many times I was looking for the piece and found that the motor had picked it up while I was searching. I work in Dublin City Centre, give me a shout if ya need a hand again :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭Faolchu


    cheers mate much appreciated


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