Stuff I need to wire a shed

Saruman

Here's a pic of what I have but I imagine I need a little more.


I have 6 square SWA (3core) to run to the main consumer unit.
I got 2x20A and 1x10A MCBs.

What else do I need for the CU? Just an RCD? I would think I need something to take the feed from the SWA cable and distribute it to the MCBs but I don't know what it's called. Something like this diagram.

The end result I would like is the 10A for a fluorescent tube light and then the two 20A for sockets.

I thought the box I bought would have everything I need but I guess not after opening it.

I'll be getting a spark to hook it all up, I just wanted to do the donkey work to save time and money.

2011

Saruman wrote: »

I have 6 square SWA (3core) to run to the main consumer unit.
I got 2x20A and 1x10A MCBs.

Generally a 6 sq. cable is sufficient.
How long is the cable run?

The end result I would like is the 10A for a fluorescent tube light and then the two 20A for sockets.

What are the sockets for? How many sockets to you plan to install?

I thought the box I bought would have everything I need but I guess not after opening it.

I don't see any neutral bars, or an earth bar.

I'll be getting a spark to hook it all up, I just wanted to do the donkey work to save time and money.

You would be far better off letting the electrician buy the materials. Not only will an electrician know what materials to buy, but what manufactures are best and will secure a better price.
Many electricians will not be keen on taking over a job that has been partially done by an unqualified person. Going off on a "solo run" may not be a good idea.
To reduce the price some electricians may agree for you to do some work along side them. But whatever role you play should be agreed beforehand.

Par1

2011 wrote: »

Generally a 6 sq. cable is sufficient.
How long is the cable run?



What are the sockets for? How many sockets to you plan to install?


I don't see any neutral bars, or an earth bar.



You would be far better off letting the electrician buy the materials. Not only will an electrician know what materials to buy, but what manufactures are best and will secure a better price.
Many electricians will not be keen on taking over a job that has been partially done by an unqualified person. Going off on a "solo run" may not be a good idea.
To reduce the price some electricians may agree for you to do some work along side them. But whatever role you play should be agreed beforehand.

Sound advice id agree with above. If you would rather supply the materials then go to the shop with electrician, let him order what he needs and you pay. Im sure an electrician would not mind that once he has the time.

Saruman

2011 wrote: »

.
Many electricians will not be keen on taking over a job that has been partially done by an unqualified person. Going off on a "solo run" may not be a good idea.

Funnily enough, all research beforehand indicated the opposite. Electricians don't like doing the donkey work and are only too happy to come in later and do the real work.

That's on British sites though, maybe it's different here.

2011

Saruman wrote: »

Funnily enough, all research beforehand indicated the opposite. Electricians don't like doing the donkey work and are only too happy to come in later and do the real work.

Many electricians are happy to avoid the "donkey work".

The problem that many of us have encountered is that unqualified people decide to start electrical work with little or no understanding of regulations, methods of installation, the suitability of materials or the consequences of what they are doing. This type of "help" can result in increased costs and a lower standard of workmanship. This is why I suggest that you start by getting an electrician on board and work out a plan together.

Saruman

2011 wrote: »

Many electricians are happy to avoid the "donkey work".

The problem that many of us have encountered is that unqualified people decide to start electrical work with little or no understanding of regulations, methods of installation, the suitability of materials or the consequences of what they are doing. This type of "help" can result in increased costs and a lower standard of workmanship. This is why I suggest that you start by getting an electrician on board and work out a plan together.

Good advice, it's counter to my personality but good advice

I'm looking for one at the moment.

cerastes

Saruman wrote: »

Here's a pic of what I have but I imagine I need a little more.


I have 6 square SWA (3core) to run to the main consumer unit.
I got 2x20A and 1x10A MCBs.

What else do I need for the CU? Just an RCD? I would think I need something to take the feed from the SWA cable and distribute it to the MCBs but I don't know what it's called. Something like this diagram.

The end result I would like is the 10A for a fluorescent tube light and then the two 20A for sockets.

I thought the box I bought would have everything I need but I guess not after opening it.

I'll be getting a spark to hook it all up, I just wanted to do the donkey work to save time and money.

Wouldnt you need mcb protection at the consumer unit? for the entire cable? then the protection for the circuits and people beyond that at a small consumer sub unit at the shed?

Ive a similar scenario, but all Ive got is the 6mm sq at the shed in place but conected to nothing, but it will be a while before I can get it through the house which would take some donkey work. Probably 18-20 metres cable length including going up the walls 2m at each end.

looking into it I think the flourescent tubes would need a different type of MCB, not just the rating due to the light type? maybe someone can confirm?

mikeyjames9

Yes
You protect the cable feeding the shed at the house end
Every outbuilding requires an isolating switch to cut power
Some electricians fit another mcb, I prefer a switch in the board
Type B mcbs are fine for a few fluorescents

cerastes

mikeyjames9 wrote: »

Yes
You protect the cable feeding the shed at the house end
Every outbuilding requires an isolating switch to cut power
Some electricians fit another mcb, I prefer a switch in the board
Type B mcbs are fine for a few fluorescents

My armoured cable is buried under the shed already to inside, and when I get around to it I need to get it into the house, Im going to go through the kitchen under the cabinets, and its a straight run along the wall to the hall at the far end where the consumer unit is up high. The cable will only be visible at that point, mostly being hidden except where I have to get it from into the hall and up the wall to the consumer unit.

If I do the donkey work, how much am I looking at getting it connected and certified (calculated)?
Any useful grommets or fittings to bring the cable through the wall neatly?

or fittings to fix it to the wall all along the way, I could just leave it under the cabinets but Id prefer it was fixed to the wall, be awkward hammering in fixings, so probably drill/screw them in.

Saruman

Yeah, I will have/need a separate MCB at the main CU end but that's the sort of thing I'm leaving to an electrician.
I'm quite lucky in that I live in a single story bungalow so It's easy to run the cable through the attic to the rear of the house, bring it out through the fascia and then a short 2-3 metre run outside to the front of the shed.

Finding an electrician is much harder it seems. I can simply call a random electrician but I was hoping for a personal recommendation from people in the area and so far, no go. No worries though, I'm out of budget until the end of the month anyway so I'm in no rush.

Lads, should I have an RCD in the shed CU? Or in the main CU? I have read conflicting stuff about that. An electrician will decide but I'm just curious.

uck51js9zml2yt

I'm not a spark, but have enough in my family to know that the very fact you are asking what you need to do a job tells me you don't know what you're doing. You should leave it to the professionals.

mikeyjames9

Saruman wrote: »

Yeah, I will have/need a separate MCB at the main CU end but that's the sort of thing I'm leaving to an electrician.
I'm quite lucky in that I live in a single story bungalow so It's easy to run the cable through the attic to the rear of the house, bring it out through the fascia and then a short 2-3 metre run outside to the front of the shed.

Finding an electrician is much harder it seems. I can simply call a random electrician but I was hoping for a personal recommendation from people in the area and so far, no go. No worries though, I'm out of budget until the end of the month anyway so I'm in no rush.

Lads, should I have an RCD in the shed CU? Or in the main CU? I have read conflicting stuff about that. An electrician will decide but I'm just curious.

Mcb house
Rcd/rcbo shed

jaggiebunnet

Question here as I am considering something similar for a freezer in the shed + a light.

I have an opening already on the other side of the garden that has a box in the ground to run a cable to the house (comes in back of sink cabinets in kitchen). Unfortunately it is still a good say 8-10 feet to the shed.

In this case would the cable go under ground - how deep would it need to go? (note I will not be doing anything here myself will get an electrician but just interested in this thread).

Reason we didn't put the shed on top of the box is that it would block the kitchen window and all you would see is a shed - daft place to put the box but was there when we moved in.