Chain Saw Chat

50HX

Just looking at the options considering I don't have that much work for a saw, an hour here & there, fuel goin old in the tank etc

blue5000

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121478938#Comment_121478938

No regrets with the parkside/lidl one above. Get the bigger 4ah batteries though. I bought it just to see what a battery saw was like before spending big bucks on the 'traditional' chainsaw brands. I'd be happy to stick with this one. However I think the later versions have a shorter bar and the batteries are more expensive too.

Don't get the 2ah batteries though. We cut a wheelie bin full of 4-5 inch ash on one charge of the 2ah batteries.

tikka16751

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121478938#Comment_121478938

Run it on aspen.

50HX

Good option, I've to go shopping for a saw

Anyone here with a battery one for a while now

Discodog

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121479171#Comment_121479171

Apparently if you use the Stihl Ultra 2 stroke oil is keeps the fuel good for a couple of years & prevents carb damage. Much cheaper than aspen

Discodog

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121479099#Comment_121479099

I was going to suggest Lidl Parkside. Lots of good revues.

tikka16751

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121480490#Comment_121480490

Good to know thanks

accidental forester

Back to the battery saw question: We've used a Makita DUC353PG2 (or DUC353Z without batteries) for the last four years with no major problems. It's a 2 battery (36v) saw and lasts quite well. My only two gripes are (1) you have to press the ON button again after a few seconds of non-operating. (2) The some of the chain tensioning components are plastic. Sufficient tension can be achieved but it feels a bit flimsy.

OrangeBadger

Can anyone suggest a good tool for sharpening chains? Last time I tried the chain ended up even blunted :(

Recently purchased two saws and want to take care of them properly from day one

STIHL MS 181 C-BE Ergo Start Chainsaw 16"

Husqvarna 120 mark ll

I wouldn't be doing a massive amount of work and will usually be doing it with timber in a log clamp

Discodog

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121507807#Comment_121507807

This is the best & so easy to use

https://www.stihl.co.uk/en/ap/easyfile-2-in-1-1733

But you need to get the right one for your chain.

OrangeBadger

Thanks for the reply

These are the chain on the saw I have ordered, how can you find out the correct file size?

https://mower.ie/product/stihl-chain-to-suit-ms181-ms181cbe?_gl=1*1h7pna3*_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAiA-P-rBhBEEiwAQEXhHzeHL8Qfj_xqamCaj-MEd94UREHnQdmLozBU1j19Jy4bhDeIVsitExoC7wkQAvD_BwE

divillybit

You'd get round chainsaw files in any chainsaw retailer. You'd also need a flat file to occasionally rub the rakers. Buckin Billy Ray on you tube has some good videos on chainsaw sharpening. Best to get used to using a hand file over some sharpening machine. You'd need to give the teeth a rub of the file at every fuel and oil fill.

Discodog

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121511924#Comment_121511924

They don't sell Stihl chain loops. The cut it off a reel so there might not be a size on it. Maybe contact them & ask for the right Stihl sharpener.

Looks like it's this one

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MULTIM-Stihl-Chainsaw-Sharpener-Compatible/dp/B09YCXJVN4/ref%3Dsr_1_3?crid=1EGENOBAFMY88&keywords=stihl+chainsaw+sharpener&qid=1703011821&sprefix=stihl%2Caps%2C470&sr=8-3

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=stihl+2+in+1+sharpener+

OrangeBadger

Another question

Husqvarna 120

Just started up a new saw and have noticed it's spitting out very small chips/dust. The logs I have been cutting up are well seasoned so maybe this is the reason for the type of sawdust I am seeing and with fresh timber I would be seeing large chips?

OrangeBadger

Oh I may have made the fuel up as 10/1 instead of 50/1.........

divillybit

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121562892#Comment_121562892

The saw would be very smokey if it was made up at a 10:1 mix I'd say but better too much oil in the petrol than too little. As for the small chips and sawdust, be sure to run the round file on the cutting teeth at every oil/fuel fill. The rakers will need arub of a flat flat too occasionally

OrangeBadger

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/121563577#Comment_121563577

It's a brand new saw and chain so I would think it's sharp, I thought maybe because the logs were so dry it might cause this? I will try again tomorrow on some fresh logs

felonious_Gru

Hi there, thought I'd drop in to the forestry section and ask the opinion of the room on two different chainsaws

I can get the Stihl second hand for €450 , the Echo is new

Took down a 150m long leylandi hedge and there is firewood in the bottom so going to cut it over the winter

https://www.ivors.ie/product/echo-cs-4510-es-15/

https://gerrycroffey.ie/products/stihl-ms-251

felonious_Gru

Here is the

https://gerrycroffey.ie/products/stihl-ms-251

50HX

1. I'd go new for the sake of an extra 100
2. If you aren't doing a major amount felling & just chopping for firewood consider battery as an option, if you have a battery op tools already just buy the bare unit, eg makita/dewalt etc

No messing with fuel mix

felonious_Gru

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122785712#Comment_122785712

Battery is not an option, too much time spent recharging, it's not planks of timber I'm cutting

Im leaning towards the new echo but most lads say that the Stihl 251 is much stronger?

Discodog

Stihl every time for me.

Pay a little extra & use the Stihl Ultra 2T oil. It means that the saw will starts after months of non use

timfromtang

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122790331#Comment_122790331

I like em both, Stihl and Husqvarna, Stihl are tough and robust, Husky revvy, nicer handling, but more fragile.

I run in Stihl a 661 (big stuff), a 261(limbing big stuff), and a 230 for light garden work, in the forest we mostly use a pair of husky 560XP's I love the slim body, and easy handling.

tim

tabby aspreme

If the Echo has a magnesium body I'd go with it, the 251 Stihl will have a plastic body.

felonious_Gru

Hello again folks , so I learned the old lesson this week that " you get what you pay for"

Decided to roll the dice and bought the screwfix house brand erbauer chainsaw last week, while it's good as Chinese saws go ( cost €254) and has a 50cc petrol engine and 50 cm bar , it simply wasn't up to the task and far too slow cutting felled trees

Went out and bought the Stihl S391 yesterday, €850 but he threw in a spare chain, a 5 litre drum of chain oil and two stroke oil

Another customer in the shop who seemed to be a regular saw operator was encouraging me to spend €1250 on the professional model Stihl 462 which was down from €1550

Store man reckoned the 391 was adequate and claimed it was the biggest domestic non pro saw ? so bought it , echo would probably have been just as good a choice but Stihl dealer much closer to me

felonious_Gru

Can't attach link

JJayoo

Just bent the bar on my saw, Husqvarna mark II, it's a light saw that has a 14 inch bar and an oregan chain.

Do I need to buy a Husqvarna bar or can I pick up any 14 inch bar?

PS I bent the bar because I'm stupid

blue5000

Oregon bar should fit. Any of the chainsaw websites will give you drop down menus to help you pick another one. Look at the numbers at the chainsaw end of your bar and if you want we can translate them into english for you if you stick up a photo. Maybe go for 16 inch bar, pitch, width and number of links and number of drive teeth on the sprocket are basically what you need. Hopefully someone with more knowledge than me can help you.

timfromtang

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122883490#Comment_122883490

do beware though that a longer bar will be harder driven. my 560xp is WAYYY better with a short bar.

tim

felonious_Gru

https://www.boards.ie/discussion/comment/122790331#Comment_122790331

Bought a Stihl 391, biggest model outside the professional range,I don't actually like it that much and I agree with a seasoned chainsaw operator who recently told me

" The 391 is like putting a V8 in a Nissan Micra" , body isn't well built enough and the strength of the 62cc engine shake's the divil out of it

divillybit

A family member borrow my big stihl and left it back with a scored piston. Looks like he ran a very lean mix in it. Compression isint as good and I'm seeing vertical scoring on the piston when I look into the cylinder from the exhaust port. Can't get it to fire at all and it would always start after a few pulls. I'm thinking a top end rebuild, I. e. new piston, rings, cylinder will fix it but I don't know if the bottom end has been damaged. Any advice? Im thinking I'd have to bring it to a chainsaw guy to pressure / vacuum test it first before buying a new top end for it.

Thepillowman

I would do a pressure and vacuum test on a saw before I'd rebuild it. It might be a case of using an incorrect mix caused the problem but if it's an air leak it's a lot easier replace parts when the saw is ripped apart. I also do a test when i put on a new top end to rule out any leaks before I run a saw