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Fuse box clicking

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  • 09-10-2014 6:01pm
    #1
    Closed Accounts Posts: 3,013 ✭✭✭


    Thought I'd get the forums opinion before contacting an Electrician.

    There's a clicking noise coming from the fuse board in the apartment. Its also coming from the main fuse box servicing the apartment block. It happens sporadically...sometimes not for days and sometimes plenty all at once. Doesnt seem to be a cause, ie, it will happen when there aren't many devices drawing power, and also when for example, the oven is on along with hob and tv , computer etc etc.

    I guess I'm hoping its something straightforward that wont cost a fortune, but if not so be it.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 163 ✭✭BrianDug


    Could be a fault relay? (~cheap)
    Fault Bell or timer?

    If you took a picture of inside the board it would be easier to give ideas. I am sure you will get better suggestions shortly.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,013 ✭✭✭Ole Rodrigo


    Pic attached with door removed. Just a clicking , tripping noise coming from somewhere in there, at random intervals.

    324624.jpg


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 6,720 ✭✭✭Sir Arthur Daley


    I would be blaming the contactor, bottom row on the rhs.


  • Registered Users Posts: 163 ✭✭BrianDug


    Would agree with Sir Arthur

    Most probable that its the relay/contactor on the bottom right.

    They are not too expensive if that is the problem.

    Do you have some sort of timer for your storage heating? The contactor on the bottom right is like a mechanical switch that is controlled by something like a timer. The contactor clicks "in" and its "on" and pops "out" when its off (usually - depends on type of contactor).

    So if you had a say faulty timer it would cause the contactor to give problems so keep that in mind.


  • Registered Users Posts: 263 ✭✭Par1


    I would be blaming the contactor, bottom row on the rhs.

    Totally Agree....id look at that first also


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  • Registered Users Posts: 263 ✭✭Par1


    Pardon me for saying but the enclosure looks in pretty poor state for 1998?..then again it probably just the photo. The missing MCB blanks could do with being filled in for safety and to keep dust/bugs out etc.


  • Registered Users Posts: 263 ✭✭Par1


    You could trip the 6a breaker on the bottom until you get it looked at if you liked, that should turn off supply to the contactors coil.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,595 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    You may find that a room thermostat controls the contractor. Slowly adjust the stat all the way up and then all the way down. You may find that the contractor switches at a certain point (known as the set point).

    Sometimes a thermostat can cause a contractor to click in & out quite a bit when the temperature is close to the set point. Perhaps your stat is faulty (low hysteresis). A new stat may solve this.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,013 ✭✭✭Ole Rodrigo


    Thats great - thanks for the help guys. Ive logged a call on tradesman.ie for someone to take a look.

    Par81 - I'll mention that to the guy when he comes. I did read there shouldnt be any exposed wires in the box so yeah it should be filled I guess. There is a door covering it so not too bad.


  • Registered Users Posts: 263 ✭✭Par1


    ror_74 wrote: »
    Thats great - thanks for the help guys. Ive logged a call on tradesman.ie for someone to take a look.

    Par81 - I'll mention that to the guy when he comes. I did read there shouldnt be any exposed wires in the box so yeah it should be filled I guess. There is a door covering it so not too bad.

    Exactly and it wont cost a lot to infill MCB voids, also mention what 2011 recommended - good advice.

    Best of luck with it !


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  • Registered Users Posts: 233 ✭✭Iderown


    2011 wrote: »
    You may find that a room thermostat controls the contractor. ...
    Sometimes a thermostat can cause a contractor to click in & out quite a bit when the temperature is close to the set point. Perhaps your stat is faulty (low hysteresis). A new stat may solve this.

    Some types of room thermostat feature an "accelerator" which switches every few seconds as the temperature approaches the set point. An internal "heating resistor" does this and the thermostat requires a neutral connection to enable the action. One such make is the Danfoss RMT230.
    [An aside - this relatively rapid switching caused no end of problems when we had a wood pellet central heating boiler. The boiler ignition element had a very short life.]


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,595 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    Iderown wrote: »
    Some types of room thermostat feature an "accelerator" which switches every few seconds as the temperature approaches the set point. An internal "heating resistor" does this and the thermostat requires a neutral connection to enable the action. One such make is the Danfoss RMT230.
    [An aside - this relatively rapid switching caused no end of problems when we had a wood pellet central heating boiler. The boiler ignition element had a very short life.]

    Rapid switchibg is not a compatible with storage heating.


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