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Requirements for a pistol
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25-10-2014 1:15am#1
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shoot to kill wrote: »sorry for hijackin but i too am in the same boat and have a notion of a hand gun! can anyone give a ball park figure of getting a hand gun for the first time. like range joining fee, membership by year. .. I haven't decided what to go for yet but from the previous posts I'll probably join a range first.
Range fee - €300 + extra for the first year of joining (€100 - €300)
License - €80 (3 years)
A decent target handgun that will group well - €700 (mid price) €2000 (top price)
Holster- €50 - €150
Ammo for the year @ €100/1000
Then on top is travel time and costs.
Competition entry fees @€;10/detail
and then there all the extra bits you'll just have to have
:):)
My advice is go to a GOOD range first. One where you can see (and feel) handguns to see them in action shooting competition targets.
You can ALWAYS get good advice on the handguns and people are mostly friendly and only to glad to see a newby wanting to get into this exciting sport.0 -
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BattleCorp wrote: »expensive at the start when you are buying the equipment that you need.
*cough*airpistol*cough*
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choke choke
;);)
Mainly for indoors shooting and so limited to ranges with indoor facilities, they are few and far between are they not Sparks.
:(
But a good place to start and not much difference in start up costs IMO only the ammo.
Airsoft wise
€ 180 for a decent pistol
€25 for extra mags
€13 for decent bbs 3000 per bag
decent green gas roughly the same as bbs or co2 capsules .
and there are several indoors airsoft target ranges .
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Oh, relax, you're not bound to them for lifechoke choke;);)
But as a starting place, to learn to shoot properly, they're damn hard to beat.
The ISSF ones are, the pony club ones are everywhere, though I don't know if they'll let interested people shoot there. But any pistol range can shot air pistol, it's easier indoors but on a calmish day (which to be fair is most days you can shoot pistol outdoors), it's fine:Mainly for indoors shooting and so limited to ranges with indoor facilities, they are few and far between are they not Sparks.:(
My air pistol (an IZH-46M, which is, I'll grant you, a tad agricultural, but still holds its own at national level) cost €250 new including P&P and there are far cheaper ones second-hand and from other makes like Daisy (but really the IZH is fine). Ammo costs are about €12 per thousand pellets and that's the absolute top end of things (in tins anyway, if you get the individually wrapped yokes it can go a bit higher but you don't need to do that for quite a while).But a good place to start and not much difference in start up costs IMO only the ammo.
Thing is, the sights, how you aim, how you push the trigger, all the fundamental basics are the same between air and smallbore and fullbore pistol. The recoil is about the only thing that changes, and unless you have something like an LP-5 you can't do the rapid fire course of fire with air pistol. But when you're a beginner, you do not want to be doing those things anyway (well, you do, but it's bad for your shooting).
Honestly, it's worth giving it a try (and honestly, why more clubs don't have them as beginner's club pistols I don't know).0 -
how you aim, how you push the trigger
Well, there's your problem right there. You've obviously pointing the gun the wrong way if you're pushing the trigger.
Now, most people who hunt & target shoot pull or squeeze their triggers, but then they usually point their firearms at what they're aiming to shoot!:D 0 -
Nope, if you're pulling, you're doing it wrong.Well, there's your problem right there. You've obviously pointing the gun the wrong way if you're pushing the trigger.
Pull and you're off to the right. You want to push that trigger straight back.
Unless of course, that you've tied a bit of string to your trigger and to your trigger finger and you've deliberately put your trigger finger behind your trigger. Then you can pull away and the force is always going to be straight back. But otherwise, nope, you just think you're pulling straight back. It's like thinking you're able to look at both the sights and the target - you can't in reality, your eye physically can't do that, but your brain is more than able to fool you into thinking you can. So you ignore intuition, focus on the sights and let the target be a gray blur and you notice your results get better, your groups get smaller, you shoot fewer fliers and your score goes up.
Or, as in this case, you stop thinking "pull the trigger" and start thinking "push the trigger".0 -
Now see Sparks, being an engineering type you're patiently over-analyzing this.....
Simplify.......
Pull = towards oneself
Push = away from oneself.
For example, to set a "set trigger", one pushes the trigger forward.
To then discharge said firearm, one pulls the trigger back towards oneself.
Simples.
Now in the case of say a mounted BMG, one pushes the paddles/triggers forward with one's thumbs, while holding/maneuvering/aiming with the hands. Different beast though & I rarely get to shoot mine these days (very hard on my backstops).
Is your Izy like this?:D
Sorry OP for OT but Sparks did start it
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Actually, the engineering side agrees, it's my coach's voice* that's disagreeing (and he's swearing a lot, but that's just his way, take no notice).
To see what I mean, hold your hand like you were firing your pistol, then look down at your hand from above and watch your trigger finger as you - let's just say operate - the trigger. If you're contacting the trigger on the pad just in front of the first joint in the finger and pulling, you'll see the angle of the first joint not really change much or worse, get smaller (from around 180 degrees to around 135 degrees or so, depending on your hand), while the angle of the second join drops from around 135 degrees to 100 degrees or less. Again, the exact angles vary from person to person according to their individual hands, but the crucial bit remains the same - the first joint angle stays the same or gets smaller and the second joint angle is the one that does the most changing. And if you do that when using the pistol, you'll notice your groups and fliers tend to be more off to the right side (or left if you're shooting left-handed).
But if you're contacting the trigger on the pad right behind the nail, almost at the tip of the finger, with the first joint bent to that 135 degree angle, and then you push back, you should see the first joint angle open out and the second joint angle doesn't change. And the force then is far more directly backwards. You do have to adjust your trigger and grip setup, though usually you just need a trigger on a rail so it can be moved forward or backwards and an adjustable break point (so that when you're actually going through the second stage and firing (or the breakpoint on the first stage if you're set up for a single-stage trigger) that that's when your second finger joint angle isn't changing and your first finger joint angle is). The fairly insane number of adjustments you see on ISSF rifle trigger blades aren't all that needed for pistol.
And like everything else in this sport, it takes ages to type an explanation, about four seconds to demonstrate it and then a lifetime to master
*I don't mean "my voice as a coach", I mean the voice of my coach. ( If you'd been coached by Matt, you'd understand what I mean ) 0 -
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