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homebrew query

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  • 30-10-2014 3:40pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 226 ✭✭


    Hi, couldn't find the right topic that this would go under, sorry if there's on available. Quick query. I'm doing a homebrew this weekend hopefully, it's an easy kit type and I'm using the coopers fermentor. The only room that's free is the garage/room which doesn't smell too pleasant at times, (long story). I presume since the kits don't allow air into them that brewing in this room isn't going to have any effect on the brew/final taste ?


Comments

  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,848 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    Should be fine: the fermentation will form a CO2 blanket, keeping ambient air away. The temperature is the only thing to worry about, though at this time of year that's probably less of a concern.


  • Registered Users Posts: 226 ✭✭BPH


    Thanks for the feedback, I was thinking as much it'll be ok. I've a brewbelt wired to a stat and a home made enclosure made out of left over kingspan boards. I haven't checked the temperature required for the brew first, as you say it might be ok without the gear. Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,381 ✭✭✭oblivious


    BPH wrote: »
    Thanks for the feedback, I was thinking as much it'll be ok. I've a brewbelt wired to a stat and a home made enclosure made out of left over kingspan boards. I haven't checked the temperature required for the brew first, as you say it might be ok without the gear. Thanks.

    I would avoid a belt with out a control system. A simpler solution is to fill some 2l plastic milk jugs with hot water, it will heat the area around with the risk of going over temp


  • Registered Users Posts: 226 ✭✭BPH


    I've a temperature stat wired onto the brew belt, would this not be ok ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 216 ✭✭Whisko


    Yes that would work fine.

    You could just get a cheap fish tank heater and put it into the well sterilised brew or have the brew sitting in a heated bath. Works fine either way.


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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,848 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    BPH wrote: »
    would this not be ok ?
    If it works. But I've heard of plenty of well-intentioned brew belts going rogue and ruining beer.


  • Registered Users Posts: 226 ✭✭BPH


    As I said I'll look at the instructions properly at the weekend, the brew belt I used a couple of times and I didn't notice anything really go too wrong. I mightn't need it as you said. Thanks for the tips.


  • Registered Users Posts: 911 ✭✭✭sharingan


    Beer does not need to be heated.

    Low temperature will just slow it down, but high temperature (especially during the early rapid growth stage) will generate a lot of off flavours.

    Leave the beer alone to do its thing. If your room is especially cold, you can take advantage of it to make winter lagers.


  • Registered Users Posts: 226 ✭✭BPH


    hi sharingan, thanks for the advise, any types of winter beers you can recommend to me ?


  • Registered Users Posts: 18,562 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    sharingan wrote: »
    Beer does not need to be heated.

    Low temperature will just slow it down, but high temperature (especially during the early rapid growth stage) will generate a lot of off flavours.

    Leave the beer alone to do its thing. If your room is especially cold, you can take advantage of it to make winter lagers.

    I have a Coopers Blond kit going since last night, it recommends the temperature between 21-27, the wine kit recommends a minimum temp of 20 and ideally over 25.
    Obviously it suits me to run them together and I was aiming for 20-22.

    What do you consider "high" temperature?


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  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,848 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    I'd regard anything over 24 as worryingly high. I assume Coopers instructions have those madly high temps because 27 is about as cold as Australian houses get.


  • Registered Users Posts: 18,562 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    BeerNut wrote: »
    Coopers instructions have those madly high temps because 27 is about as cold as Australian houses get.

    Not such a problem here in Cavan :(


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,848 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    The heating doesn't go on until the snow is a foot thick? :P


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,381 ✭✭✭oblivious


    BeerNut wrote: »
    The heating doesn't go on until the snow is a foot thick? :P


    Only to melt the snow, as its free water :p;)


  • Registered Users Posts: 911 ✭✭✭sharingan


    BPH wrote: »
    hi sharingan, thanks for the advise, any types of winter beers you can recommend to me ?

    Dont have a lot of experience with specific beer kits I am afraid, i would look for a good, well bodied stout kit, increase the fermentables, and swap out the kit yeast with something decent like nottingham or us05


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 Paulpk


    Are reading a few of the threads, I feel a little stupid, I bought a kit last week, it arrived with 2 large items, 1 was an electric heater, it's a plastic white bucket with an electric on switch on it, the other large item is basically a large ice cooler with a tap on it, and a filter in the bottom ( the large white bucket has a tap too) it also came with a bag of grain, i think barley, and 3 bags of green, again, think hops and ? Also a copper cooling jobbie, really nothing else, so I have ran before I walked, I am heading to the place I bought it from on Wednesday, basically to get some Addons and ask for advice, anyone got some advice before I go, or tell me what to get? Thanks in advance!


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,697 ✭✭✭Bogwoppit


    Paulpk wrote: »
    Are reading a few of the threads, I feel a little stupid, I bought a kit last week, it arrived with 2 large items, 1 was an electric heater, it's a plastic white bucket with an electric on switch on it, the other large item is basically a large ice cooler with a tap on it, and a filter in the bottom ( the large white bucket has a tap too) it also came with a bag of grain, i think barley, and 3 bags of green, again, think hops and ? Also a copper cooling jobbie, really nothing else, so I have ran before I walked, I am heading to the place I bought it from on Wednesday, basically to get some Addons and ask for advice, anyone got some advice before I go, or tell me what to get? Thanks in advance!

    You're jumping in at the deep end a bit there!
    I think you should find a friendly all grain brewer near you to show you the ropes.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 15,116 ✭✭✭✭RasTa


    Sounds like the brew in a bag kit. Which company?


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 Paulpk


    I bought it from Geterbrewed in Lurgan, I am traveling up on Wednesday, going to get a simple kit to start with, recommendations would be brilliant, thanks for the replays guys! Much appreciated.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,592 ✭✭✭drumswan


    RasTa wrote: »
    Sounds like the brew in a bag kit. Which company?

    BIAB doesnt come with a cooler mash tun. Sounds like hes bought a full all grain setup with a kettle.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 4 Paulpk


    I think that what I bought, you probably think I am thick but I thought that paying a premium price would get me the kit needed, so, all is not lost, I am going up to the place I bought it in the next few days, so I will get an easier kit. Once I get the hang of that, I will move on to the all grain one, or, if someone advises me on the kit I have, I will give that a go. Thanks for the replays by the way, much appreciated. Any advice that you lads have, would be great.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 15,116 ✭✭✭✭RasTa


    drumswan wrote: »
    BIAB doesnt come with a cooler mash tun. Sounds like hes bought a full all grain setup with a kettle.

    Guess he went all out then, surprised it doesn't include a FV

    http://www.geterbrewed.com/all-grain-starter-kit.html

    Given the price difference I'd bring it all back and ask for this

    http://www.geterbrewed.com/biab-all-grain-starter-kit-includes-a-mash-kit.html


  • Registered Users Posts: 3,535 ✭✭✭paddylonglegs


    Just wanted to jump on this query thread. Started a brew last weekend of coopers premium lager. It was recommended to mix the yeast with a small amount of water before adding to brew. There has been no bubbles through bung since I started brew. Could the yeast have been affected when I mixed with water? My last brew didn't have a huge amount of bubbles either but it was a Canadian blonde.


  • Moderators, Recreation & Hobbies Moderators Posts: 11,848 Mod ✭✭✭✭BeerNut


    A lack of bubbles doesn't tell you anything. Check the gravity.

    When rehydrating yeast, I:
    1. Boil a small amount of water and leave it to cool
    2. Sanitise a thermometer, measuring jug and two glasses
    3. Measure 100ml of the boiled water in the jug then transfer to a glass
    4. Use the measuring jug as a water bath to cool the boiled water further
    5. When the boiled water is at 27C (measured with the sanitised thermometer) sprinkle in the yeast
    6. Place the other glass on top of the first one to create a seal
    7. Leave to settle for 15 minutes or so, then shake gently every few minutes

    In around 45 minutes the yeast will start to froth. That's it ready for pitching.


  • Registered Users Posts: 32 thelaoislad


    thats the method I used on at as well, I just covered the 100ml with tinfoil and left termometer sticking through the top to read it ...
    I pitched in the yeast when temp was about 30-32 , ( i read once temp was below 35 it would be ok ) .
    Now Im bit worried that the temp was a bit on the high side ..
    when I pitched in the yeast to the FV the temp was ~~20 ( unwanted visitors arrived and spoiled the event a bit)
    Bubbling away now, its a Muntons cervese beer , not as much activity as with a Coopers IPA 3 weeks ago ..not sure how that will turn out , it didnt exactly taste well when i had a sample at bottling time ...hopefully time will heal / improve


  • Registered Users Posts: 149 ✭✭cyburger


    RasTa wrote: »
    Guess he went all out then, surprised it doesn't include a FV

    So am I, what do they expect you to ferment it in - not much of a "starter" kit if it doesn't have the most basic requirement! :eek:

    Even someone coming from kits buying this as an upgrade wouldn't mind getting a new FV I'm sure.

    Still, at least you've saved yourself some time - I started with kits and now do BIAB - as suggested below, if you could swap it for the BIAB equipment you can start with kits and then move to BIAB when (if) you feel like it... it's more rewarding than kits IMO... good luck!


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