What do I need for US fluorescent tubes to work here?

TireeTerror

I just bought a Bud Lite pool table light which is from the US.

There were no tubes in it, but it has a sticker on the thing stating "Replace bulb F30 T8/DL 120V 50/60HZ 0.20amps"

I went into a hardware store and bought bulbs which are closest to that description. They are "FT8 30W 830"

They fit perfectly but I am not wanting to plug them (I have a simple international adapter) in as there is a huge difference in the voltages and I'm concerned about melting the wires and causing damage and a fire!

I have had a look online on various forums etc, but there is a lot of conflicting information so I thought I would try here as Im sure many of you have had personal experience in this matter.

Will the bulbs I bought only work in a 240V housing? There is no mention of voltages on the bulbs anywhere.

Is a step down voltage converter required? Or do I just change to a higher gauge wire so its suitable for 240V supply? Would the physical housing itself not be strong enough to withstand the increase in voltage if I tried to simply change the wiring?

Par1

Ballast will have to be changed and also any components that are rated for 120v will have to be rated for up to 240v. Fitting a flourescent light inside existing fitting then disregarding original light could be an option as it would cost very little to do.

TireeTerror

Ive just noticed that on the wiring to the plug, it is rated for 300V.

So the wiring should be fine to handle the 240V, the bulbs I bought are obviously for 240V (I checked the website to make sure!) and would I be correct in thinking that the only thing to worry about is of the actual housing can handle 240V?? Or are there some other conditions specific to fluorescent tubes, such as the ballast or whatever you call that starter motor thing.

I posted this without seeing your post!

Par1

TireeTerror wrote: »

Ive just noticed that on the wiring to the plug, it is rated for 300V.

So the wiring should be fine to handle the 240V, the bulbs I bought are obviously for 240V (I checked the website to make sure!) and would I be correct in thinking that the only thing to worry about is of the actual housing can handle 240V?? Or are there some other conditions specific to fluorescent tubes, such as the ballast or whatever you call that starter motor thing.

The plug/wiring may be rated for 300v but the accessories may not be. Each accessory will have to be looked at and info if present. Its easier to put your own lights into it id say.

TireeTerror

The problem with using a different housing, is that its made specifically so that it attached to the light. I dont really want a bodged job.

The internal wiring from the ballast to the bulbs are 600V, so they wont melt.

So I will be looking at the on/off light pull switch (toggle like bathroom light) and then replacing the ballast? Would I be right to assume the physical mounts the bulb fits into, lets call them the end connectors, should be alright? Or would it be possible that the metal contacts are not sufficient for 240V?

The ballast is only 120V from what I can see.

Here is a link to a photo of the same model. http://www.amazon.com/IG230ELSX-INTERGLOBAL-Ballast-F30t12-Or/dp/images/B00BQ0UP5S

TireeTerror

I have done a little more pulling apart. The end connectors (That the bulbs fit into) state the following "660W 600V"

The toggle switch to turn the lights on and off states the following "Sun-Lite 6A 125VAC:3A 250VAC 3A 125VL"

Thats pretty much meaningless to me, can you help?

mikeyjames9

you probably just need a electronic ballast now for your 2*30w T8 tubes

the internal wiring and switch are prob ok

Par1

All looks ok from above info....swap out ballast then fire her up!

mikeyjames9

http://www.meteorelectrical.com/ballast-hf-2-30w-t8.html

there's one above but it's metal
http://www.tridonic.com/com/en/download/data_sheets/PC_T8_PRO_30-70W_xitec_en.pdf

"For luminaires of protection class I: Earthing via ECG casing (according to IEC 60598)
For luminaires of protection class II: No earthing required"

you might be able to get a different one,but data sheet says it doesn't require earthing in a 2-wire light fitting

TireeTerror

Thanks for the help everyone.

What are the advantages of buying a 240V ballast over buying a voltage converter which would mean I do not have to start pulling things apart?

Would the tubes work with the 120V ballast?

mikeyjames9

TireeTerror wrote: »

Thanks for the help everyone.

What are the advantages of buying a 240V ballast over buying a voltage converter which would mean I do not have to start pulling things apart?

Would the tubes work with the 120V ballast?

Hmm I think they will work with existing ballast

I suppose the difference with an external traffo is you've no concerns around warranty, tampering with fitting and voltage ratings of other parts of the fitting etc

Par1

Voltage converter would use extra electricity (not a lot though). It also adds another part to the system so if it ever fails its just an extra expense.

mikeyjames9

if i was happy enough that it was safe to do so ,i'd prob swop the HF ballast myself
considering that it's a simple luminaire

if you're not so certain you can go with the voltage converter(traffo)

Pete67

I would change the ballast rather than run the fitting from a 120V transformer, if you use a traffo you will need 120V tubes, which mght be hard to find here.

frankxxxx

Pete67 wrote: »

I would change the ballast rather than run the fitting from a 120V transformer, if you use a traffo you will need 120V tubes, which mght be hard to find here.

I would have assumed the existing ballast would work on the 30w tubes
I could be mistaken though