Firewood and Kindling Drying Kiln

timfromtang

zetecescort wrote: »

on the picture above in wayoutwest's post, would the timber dry better in the bags or stacked in rows?

I'd say in rows, nice stacked rows, with a gap between them and some sort of "ties" between the rows for stability.

tim

timfromtang

Well, the tunnel is ready to erect, i am going to initially try a 750mm sq approx chimney on the end to create a draught, and slope the tunnel roof upwards toward the chimney around 300mm in the 19 metre length.
At the lower end i hope to control air infiltration to have a degree of control over the drying in the kiln.
I will need to measure temperature, and relative humidity.
Can anyone suggest suitable equipment for this job?
apart from the obvious thermometer, clipboard, and wet and dry bulb thermometer, and pencil.
Many thanks
tim

Oldtree

Did you get the thicker plastic? I have the thicker stuff on my one and its now 15 years old (with a few patches).

Birds are terrible for trying to peck from the outside at the insects that are on the inside and these little holes let rain in and can be difficult to patch on the roof.

Heat tape is necessary between any metal bits and the plastic.

I use 3 ordinary max/min thermometers, one at roof level one mid and one at ground level as the temp can differ by up to 20 degrees between the top and the bottom. For a professional setup maby some sort of digital set up would be better with sensors and a base unit that can keep a record, perhaps even link to a computer.

TomOnBoard

Oldtree wrote: »

I use 3 ordinary max/min thermometers, one at roof level one mid and one at ground level as the temp can differ by up to 20 degrees between the top and the bottom. For a professional setup mayby some sort of digital set up would be better with sensors and a base unit that can keep a record, perhaps even link to a computer.

Could I suggest that you use a (relatively) cheap weather station. These usually record Indoor and Outdoor Relative Humidity & Temperature, and present it simply. This one for example monitors Temp & Humidity in 3 places and sends the data wirelessly to the base unit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Wireless-Weather-Station-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Temperature-Humidity-3-Sensor-/231497185424?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35e64eb890

OR

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Weather-Station-Wireless-Indoor-Outdoor-Temperature-Hygrometer-Humidity-C-F-/281620278628?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item4191e06d64

Not bad starter kits for £20-30. Couple it with a good hand-held moisture meter to measure the M.C. of the wood over time, and yer in good shape.

TomOnBoard

timfromtang wrote: »

I'd say in rows, nice stacked rows, with a gap between them and some sort of "ties" between the rows for stability.

tim

The key is to facilitate air to flow over the maximum surface area that is possible, with a hat of some sort on to keep falling rain from saturating the drying wood. Split the rounds ASAP and stack. Have a look at how the Europeans do it- they have centuries of experience. If you're feeling 'Arty' make a feature out of your stack, so that it provides something extra nice to look at. I would always start my stack on pallets to keep it off the ground if possible. Its amazing the difference a flow of air under the stack can make.

I used the bags a few times. I really don't think they were nearly as good for drying as a good stack, although they were surely extremely handy.

timfromtang

TomOnBoard wrote: »

Could I suggest that you use a (relatively) cheap weather station. These usually record Indoor and Outdoor Relative Humidity & Temperature, and present it simply. This one for example monitors Temp & Humidity in 3 places and sends the data wirelessly to the base unit.

URL removed cos im a newbie

OR

URL removed cos im a newbie

Not bad starter kits for £20-30. Couple it with a good hand-held moisture meter to measure the M.C. of the wood over time, and yer in good shape.

Thanks Tom, very helpful simple and cheap and should do all i need.
Many thanks to all for all the help and good suggestions made on this forum

tim

timfromtang

Well i made a start on sawing the timber for the solar kiln today, i got a rainy morning sawmilling
pic attached
50 posts Wayyy Heyyyy
pictures of tunnel erection to follow as construction unfolds.
tim

zetecescort

timfromtang wrote: »

Well i made a start on sawing the timber for the solar kiln today, i got a rainy morning sawmilling
pic attached
50 posts Wayyy Heyyyy
pictures of tunnel erection to follow as construction unfolds.
tim

plenty saws to choose from anyway!

timfromtang

zetecescort wrote: »

plenty saws to choose from anyway!

aye theres a few there alright, one needs a rebuild and will get it over the next 2 weeks cos we got loadsa work for em all this season, 16Ha to thin, and a 15Metre wide swath to fell for the forest road. You need two in the yard, a crosscut and a rip for the sawmill, one in the tractor for the driver and any issues he may have, and two in the hands of the boys an girls in the woods. PPE and hard hats all round, an it all creeps up on yer pocket an bites you in the ass.
tim

timfromtang

Hows all,
Did a little filming of construction to date, and of some chainsaw joinery on the posts for the solar drying kiln.
here is the state so far https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-C8bJgdcWCE

and some chainsaw joinery https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Svjt8ALxKGk

all the best
more videos on my timfromtang channel on you tube

tim

timfromtang

https://www.youtube.com/user/timfromtang/videos
tim

TomOnBoard

Looking really good Tim.Will you put some wood preserver on the posts?

timfromtang

Howdy Tom
To preserve the posts, i am not in favour or toxic wood preservers, i am however in favour of long lasting woodwork.
Ergo, the posts are installed with a 25mm gap at the ground (held up by the brackets) the posts are made from durable larch, and i shall give everything a coat of gloss paint.
Tim

webels

timfromtang wrote: »

Howdy Tom
To preserve the posts, i am not in favour or toxic wood preservers, i am however in favour of long lasting woodwork.
Ergo, the posts are installed with a 25mm gap at the ground (held up by the brackets) the posts are made from durable larch, and i shall give everything a coat of gloss paint.
Tim

Was wondering why they werent embedded in concrete, great idea on the gap and larch should last years. Impressive woodwork with the saw, keep the videos and pictures coming.

TomOnBoard

I reckoned Tim's chainsaw with its depth gauge should have been around when my woodwork teacher was berating me for using a 1/2" chisel (instead of 1/4") to work on tenon joints back in the day. I can imagine the pipe falling out of his mouth (yes, he smoked Bendigo in class!!) as I revved up my chainsaw in class!!

Thanks for the excellent videos Tim. I love those posts.. Of course, I should have remembered all the boat-makers in the Midlands used to use Larch by choice as being virtually insect- and rot- proof on applications in a wet environment.

gazahayes

Any more pics must be getting on well now.

timfromtang

gazahayes wrote: »

Any more pics must be getting on well now.

aye it is geting on fine, i am using the partially completed kiln to dry the sawn timber for the sides and ends.
tim
will post some pics when we start to fit the ends and sides
tim
visitors welcome in Tang