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Fuse Power Failure Itec house alarm beeping

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  • 01-12-2014 9:54pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭


    Flashing green power light and constant beeping means Fuse Power Failure according to the old manual we found on top of the Itec alarm box.
    Anyone please any advice how to stop the beeping?!
    Not electrically minded at all
    Thanks in advance


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 11,717 ✭✭✭✭altor


    MB Lacey wrote: »
    Flashing green power light and constant beeping means Fuse Power Failure according to the old manual we found on top of the Itec alarm box.
    Anyone please any advice how to stop the beeping?!
    Not electrically minded at all
    Thanks in advance

    Putting in your user code should stop it. If the electricity is not gone in your premises then check trip switches and fuses to system.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MB Lacey


    altor wrote: »
    Putting in your user code should stop it. If the electricity is not gone in your premises then check trip switches and fuses to system.
    Our user code has been put in several times but it still beeps.
    We shut down electricity to our house, still going off.
    I guess I wouldn't know how to check fuses to system


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,717 ✭✭✭✭altor


    MB Lacey wrote: »
    Our user code has been put in several times but it still beeps.
    We shut down electricity to our house, still going off.
    I guess I wouldn't know how to check fuses to system

    If you still have mains in the house then its a problem with the power going to the system. Could be the fuse or the transformer itself. If you are not comfortable around mains I would recommend having a local installer have a look at this for you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MB Lacey


    Here's some photos don't know if they makes any sense to you. Will prob just call someone- any recommendations for a company who will call out now?
    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,717 ✭✭✭✭altor


    MB Lacey wrote: »
    Here's some photos don't know if they makes any sense to you. Will prob just call someone- any recommendations for a company who will call out now?
    Thanks

    The fuse holder is located where the mains goes into the transformer. Make sure you turn off the mains before going at this. There are plenty of company's who do call outs at this time. If you disconnect the battery then the system will should go dead till tomorrow. Just note external bell will ring till the battery dies or it times out depending on the bell itself.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MB Lacey


    Thanks.
    We've disconnected the battery and located which electricity fuse was giving power to the beeping.
    So we've turned that fuse off for tonight.
    We will try and find a new battery and replace. We'll probably have to call someone out - it could never be as simple as just needing a new battery could it?!
    Also anyone know where I could buy a replacement for battery in image?
    Thanks for all your help Altor and Meercat


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,717 ✭✭✭✭altor


    MB Lacey wrote: »
    Thanks.
    We've disconnected the battery and located which electricity fuse was giving power to the beeping.
    So we've turned that fuse off for tonight.
    We will try and find a new battery and replace. We'll probably have to call someone out - it could never be as simple as just needing a new battery could it?!
    Also anyone know where I could buy a replacement for battery in image?
    Thanks for all your help Altor and Meercat

    Are you sure it is the alarm beeping?
    When you disconnect the battery the panel should of gone dead if there was a problem with the mains going to it.
    The reason I ask is amount of calls I would get relating to a smoke alarm battery needing to be replaced that is not connected to the alarm system would amaze you :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MB Lacey


    altor wrote: »
    Are you sure it is the alarm beeping?
    When you disconnect the battery the panel should of gone dead if there was a problem with the mains going to it.
    The reason I ask is amount of calls I would get relating to a smoke alarm battery needing to be replaced that is not connected to the alarm system would amaze you :)

    It was definitely the house alarm system which was beeping.
    Our smoke alarms are just the battery powered ones not connected to the electricity supply.
    But you're right, I couldn't understand why after disconnecting pictured battery the beeping from house alarm box still continued until we shut down switch for shower emersion.
    When we shut that switch down on the mains board the beeping stopped.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,717 ✭✭✭✭altor


    MB Lacey wrote: »
    It was definitely the house alarm system which was beeping.
    Our smoke alarms are just the battery powered ones not connected to the electricity supply.
    But you're right, I couldn't understand why after disconnecting pictured battery the beeping from house alarm box still continued until we shut down switch for shower emersion.
    When we shut that switch down on the mains board the beeping stopped.

    Has to be the alarm so. If it was the battery smoke detectors they would still be beeping.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MB Lacey


    altor wrote: »
    Has to be the alarm so. If it was the battery smoke detectors they would still be beeping.
    Ok thanks.
    Well if I'm understanding you correctly, if it was just the battery at fault as soon as we'd detached the battery the beeping should have stopped.
    But the beeping kept going until we switched off the shower fuse at the mains, then the beeping stopped.
    So something's wrong with the alarm connections (not battery) and we definitely need to call someone out.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,717 ✭✭✭✭altor


    MB Lacey wrote: »
    Ok thanks.
    Well if I'm understanding you correctly, if it was just the battery at fault as soon as we'd detached the battery the beeping should have stopped.
    But the beeping kept going until we switched off the shower fuse at the mains, then the beeping stopped.
    So something's wrong with the alarm connections (not battery) and we definitely need to call someone out.

    Before you call anyone out I would power the system up on the mains.
    See if the system just needed a fresh power up to clear the fault. If the beeping stops then connect the battery and close up the system.
    The beeping on systems usually are there to indicate a fault and cleared when you enter your user code.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MB Lacey


    Just did that but it started beeping again (despite no battery being connected). Punched in code but it still kept beeping - hopefully not an expensive job to repair, we really can't afford a new alarm.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,717 ✭✭✭✭altor


    MB Lacey wrote: »
    Just did that but it started beeping again (despite no battery being connected). Punched in code but it still kept beeping - hopefully not an expensive job to repair, we really can't afford a new alarm.

    Sounds like the system itself might have a fault.
    I would contact a local installer and have him have a look at it for you.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MB Lacey


    altor wrote: »
    Sounds like the system itself might have a fault.
    I would contact a local installer and have him have a look at it for you.

    An installer from dynolocks called around (€75), tried a few things to get the alarm working again but said the board was broken.
    I asked if he could do the most cost effective thing and replace the old board, but he explained how a new board wouldn't be compatible with the old keypad or alarm bell.
    He said he could install a new HKC1070 for €375 inc vat and installation.
    Does this seem like the next best step?

    Installing a HKC1070 would have the advantage of using all the old wiring that's going around the house - but maybe that's a disadvantage?

    I liked the old alarm, it seemed sturdy and not too sensitive (ie didn't go off in the wind etc), so that would be another advantage of using the same wiring we have around the house?

    Any advice much appreciated.
    Thanks


  • Registered Users Posts: 6,546 ✭✭✭kub


    I used to love those old Itec Horizon panels like yours. However times have moved on and so has technology, I agree with that guy the 10/70 is a good replacement. This brings you right up to date electronically speaking.

    Certainly all of your existing wiring can and should be reused. However I would insist that all of the existing detectors get checked throughly as the new panel will be analysising your existing zones much better than your old panel did. So any little issues may not have been detected by the old one but will be by the new one.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭MB Lacey


    That's reassuring thanks.
    Does the price €375 sound about right?


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,717 ✭✭✭✭altor


    MB Lacey wrote: »
    An installer from dynolocks called around (€75), tried a few things to get the alarm working again but said the board was broken.
    I asked if he could do the most cost effective thing and replace the old board, but he explained how a new board wouldn't be compatible with the old keypad or alarm bell.
    He said he could install a new HKC1070 for €375 inc vat and installation.
    Does this seem like the next best step?

    Installing a HKC1070 would have the advantage of using all the old wiring that's going around the house - but maybe that's a disadvantage?

    I liked the old alarm, it seemed sturdy and not too sensitive (ie didn't go off in the wind etc), so that would be another advantage of using the same wiring we have around the house?

    Any advice much appreciated.
    Thanks

    Price wise then yes the panel upgrade is good value. You have more than likely got a deduction as you already paid a call out.
    The bell should be compatible, if there is an issue with the bell then you would need a replacement. The newer system will add more features like being able to add wire free devices if needed down the road. Sensitivity should not be an issue if all devices have being tested.


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