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iStick Atomiser Issue

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  • 03-12-2014 7:05pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 11,035 ✭✭✭✭


    Wonder has anyone else had problems with their RDA's/ Clearos etc. on the iStick? Particularly annoying me with the Kayfun and now with me new Magma.

    Basically, you cant screw the 510 on flush as it will read zero ohms and if fire it will say 'Atomizer short'. Sometimes says other things I think, maybe 'No Atomiser' or whatever.

    What this means is you have to screw in your atomiser just enough so the ohm reader has the correct read. It will cycle through though from like 0.2 - loose - up to whatever - 1.8 in my case - till it gets to 0 again. So it's never screwed nice and tight and may read lower or higher ohms than is the case as it shifts.

    Anyone?


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 2,894 ✭✭✭TinCool


    No problems here with two different kayfuns


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,035 ✭✭✭✭J Mysterio


    Fecks sake. Did I get a bum iStick?

    Cheers for response.


  • Registered Users Posts: 469 ✭✭nuttyboy79


    Mine is fine with my Igo-L


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,035 ✭✭✭✭J Mysterio


    Dont know what the problem could be so :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,555 ✭✭✭youdipstick


    I did watch a youtube video with the 510 not connecting,he just used a small precision screwdriver & prized the 510 upwards.Apparently the first batch had this problem.
    It must have been one of my reviewers in my list,there is quite alot of them,I'll have a look to see if I can find it.

    I am still looking for that video,I did come across this one with a fix for the threads & spring loaded adapter.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebZVFY4Q7q0
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwO_RGewlfY

    Stripping & using drippers.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWd6tcKOab4


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  • Registered Users Posts: 11,035 ✭✭✭✭J Mysterio


    Cool, thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 53 ✭✭Kyaner


    I had the same problem because the 510 connection was bored at an angle, some devices made proper contact but my Kayfun didn't until i unscrewed the little screw at the bottom of the Kayfun a bit.

    Still i returned it to get another one because that was clearly a manufacturing defect.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,035 ✭✭✭✭J Mysterio


    Think that's it alright!


  • Registered Users Posts: 53 ✭✭Kyaner


    Glad i could help :)
    It's a great little device, especially for the money !


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,807 ✭✭✭Calibos


    Loving mine.

    Been a clumbsy fecker and dropped it 2 or 3 times so far. Not a mark scratch or glitch from it. It's bottom heavy so lands battery side first so I haven't broken my kanger clearos either like would often happen with my iTaste VV


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  • Registered Users Posts: 745 ✭✭✭csi vegas


    I've found that this happens quite a bit on various devices of mine and I think it's down to 1 the metal of the clearo/rda/whatever and 2 the centre pin of the battery.

    2 is easily fixed with a little pulling up with a tweezers but 1 can be tempermental - eg; I got a lot of clearos, all types and resistances you can think of (all Fasttech btw) - used them both out the box and later rebuilt to my exact preferred resistance - but still I get wonky, untrue readings.
    I'm convinced that it's the clearo's metal which are super shiny 'silver' (ie: Godknowswhat) whereas with REAL brand clearos this never happened.
    Just a suggestion for you.

    My fix for this is a lot of adjusting : (
    screw up, down, repeat repeatedly, prise up battery centre pin, repeat...

    Also if its happening on rebuilds it may be the case that there's a teeny bit of Kanthal/Nichrome touching the battery's inner well OR some hot-spots going on in the wrap?


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,035 ✭✭✭✭J Mysterio


    I think the priblem was that the iStick 510 was bored at an angle? It seems ok now - when I screw in my Kayfun I just apply pressure on an angle and its getting in neat!


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,035 ✭✭✭✭J Mysterio


    God this was driving me mental for the last half hour and have finally figured out that the centre pin contact is wobbly. Looks like i'll have to straighten it out prior to every use. Glad I figured it out though.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,894 ✭✭✭TinCool


    J Mysterio wrote: »
    God this was driving me mental for the last half hour and have finally figured out that the centre pin contact is wobbly. Looks like i'll have to straighten it out prior to every use. Glad I figured it out though.

    Bit of a pain. Why not return it and get a replacement. Not fit for purpose if you ask me.


  • Registered Users Posts: 11,035 ✭✭✭✭J Mysterio


    I won it at Vapefest!


  • Registered Users Posts: 98 ✭✭tippguy2


    posted this in another thread

    i had the same problem, i solved it by putting insulating tape on the top of the istick (2 small pieces stuck together on both sides of the connection, it needs the double thickness to get the connection to read correctly), it either aligned the kanger tank or shortened the leg, i think the kanger may have been pushing down too hard on the istick connection plate ? (kanger aero tank)


  • Registered Users Posts: 2 N2deep


    TinCool wrote: »
    Bit of a pain. Why not return it and get a replacement. Not fit for purpose if you ask me.

    The I stick has a known flaw by manufacturer ..they have a problem with fixed 510 pin driving into the body ...if you have one use the adapter provided until you can buy the factory remedy bend connection this has a spring loaded pin ...then you are ok..the using of the provided ego adapter will prevent any damage as you are fixing to it not directly into the body pin when taking tanks on and off ...stops the>> no atomizer<< reading on display no short..
    I believe you can find the Bendy adapter at Best on line they are around eu6 ...
    Hope it helps..it will keep ya safe
    Vape Strong


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