Alternator gone - what are my options?

Trojan

(E39 525iA)

Looks like a battery issue was actually a dodgy alternator. Got a red battery light with brand new battery toward end of a 150 mile journey.

What are my options now? Assuming I can start it (with or without a jump), is it safe to drive 5-10 miles to a garage? (Safe to drive 150 miles to my home mechanic?)

How much for a replacement alternator + installation?

Idbatterim

get the current one reconditioned? where are you based?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/BMW-E39-E38-E36-M52-M52TU-ENGINE-TYPE-ALTERNATOR-VALEO-1-432-978-90-AMP-3-PINS-/301412733955?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item462d995403

or get a used and tested one from a breakers...

could it be starter motor?

fergus1001

Idbatterim wrote: »

get the current one reconditioned? where are you based?

http://www.ebay.ie/itm/BMW-E39-E38-E36-M52-M52TU-ENGINE-TYPE-ALTERNATOR-VALEO-1-432-978-90-AMP-3-PINS-/301412733955?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item462d995403

or get a used and tested one from a breakers...

Agree there's a lad in portlaoise I use for starters and alternators anyway I'm sure there are more lads around just Google for them

ART6

Before you go to the expense of a new or recon alternator, are you sure it's faulty? The existence of a charging warning light doesn't necessarily mean an alternator fault -- it could just be a bad connection or a loose drive belt. Before doing anything else, I would suggest you check the drive belt tension since that is a very common reason for lack of charging. Then clean the electrical connections to the alternator, and then run the engine and put a multimeter on the battery terminals. If the alternator is working the battery should show somewhere around 13.5 -- 14.5 volts. If it stays at 12 volts then the alternator is probably faulty alright. If, however, you do see a full charge going to the battery but the red light remains on, then there is possibly an EMC fault that might need a reprogramming.

If you don't have a multimeter, you can buy one from a DIY store for €20 or so, and they are a valuable tool for a motorist.

With a new battery fully charged you could drive some distance in the daytime (no lights, no heater, no radio), but I wouldn't risk 150 miles -- having never tried!

i57dwun4yb1pt8

get it reconned for about 180 quid if its at fault , could also be the main fuze box has a dodgy connection ( i had both go in my car one after the other )

you might get about 5 miles to neaerst garage in day light .

you wil lstart getting weird warning lights as if the car is possessed when the battery is about to die .

CJhaughey

Alternators are pretty simple old things, If you are halfway handy you can recon it yourself with a few simple tools and save a lot of money.
I did mine a few months back, New slipring, Bearings and brushes were less than 20 from an Ebay seller in Mayo.

Trojan

It started - surprisingly - and I went and got a battery charger.

Mechanic not available til Monday. I will charge it up fully and drop in there for reconditioning or replacement. Is it worthwhile getting new unit or is secondhand ok?

dr.fuzzenstein

DaDumTish wrote: »

get it reconned for about 180 quid if its at fault , could also be the main fuze box has a dodgy connection ( i had both go in my car one after the other )

you might get about 5 miles to neaerst garage in day light .

you wil lstart getting weird warning lights as if the car is possessed when the battery is about to die .

You'd get a new one for that.

dr.fuzzenstein

Trojan wrote: »

It started - surprisingly - and I went and got a battery charger.

Mechanic not available til Monday. I will charge it up fully and drop in there for reconditioning or replacement. Is it worthwhile getting new unit or is secondhand ok?

Forget regular car mechanic, you have to bring it to an auto electrics place, they will usually recon for about fiddy bucks or thereabouts, new alternator is €150 to €200, depending on what it is, so if all it needs is brushes and maybe bearings, recon is the way to go.

knifey_spoonie

OP I would check the waterpump, it would be a much more common issue rather than a alternator on the Yaris. Its driven by the same belt as the alternator, and i regularly see a worn waterpump causing a battery light to show intermittently.


The water pump is that part circled in red, if you open the bonnet about 1/2 way down on the LH side you will see it, check for redish/pink staining around it. You will also be able to hear a grumble/rattle noise from that area.

Foxhole Norman

knifey_spoonie wrote: »

OP I would check the waterpump, it would be a much more common issue rather than a alternator on the Yaris. Its driven by the same belt as the alternator, and i regularly see a worn waterpump causing a battery light to show intermittently.

An E39 is a small bit different to a Yaris now in fairness, I own both, I should know :pac:

Pity you're having so much trouble with it Trojan!

ART6

Trojan wrote: »

It started - surprisingly - and I went and got a battery charger.

Mechanic not available til Monday. I will charge it up fully and drop in there for reconditioning or replacement. Is it worthwhile getting new unit or is secondhand ok?

A used unit that has been professionally reconditioned should one very nearly "as new". To obtain a recon unit you would normally take your faulty one to the reconditioner, who would sell you a replacement. You don't have to wait for yours to be reconditioned.

knifey_spoonie

knifey_spoonie wrote: »

OP I would check the waterpump, it would be a much more common issue rather than a alternator on the Yaris. Its driven by the same belt as the alternator, and i regularly see a worn waterpump causing a battery light to show intermittently.


The water pump is that part circled in red, if you open the bonnet about 1/2 way down on the LH side you will see it, check for redish/pink staining around it. You will also be able to hear a grumble/rattle noise from that area.

That should have ended up Here

i57dwun4yb1pt8

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

You'd get a new one for that.

any qoute i have heard for a new one installed is 400 - 500 euro .

rex-x

ART6 wrote: »

A used unit that has been professionally reconditioned should one very nearly "as new". To obtain a recon unit you would normally take your faulty one to the reconditioner, who would sell you a replacement. You don't have to wait for yours to be reconditioned.

Alternators can not always be reconditioned, if the windings are gone then its only fit for scrap and they wont accept it as a core. Also the reconditioned one may have damaged windings so would not really be as close to new as you'd like, usually they are fine though.

dr.fuzzenstein

DaDumTish wrote: »

any qoute i have heard for a new one installed is 400 - 500 euro .

Sorry, forgot to take that into account. I was checking into new vs recon for a CMax and an MX5. of course my maths is based on just taking them out and putting them back in myself.
It's not that hard, though the Mazda has been surprisingly awkward to take out. Haven't checked the Ford yet, but I'm guessing it will be a bit of a pain.
As usual, going to the main dealer and letting them put shiny new bits in is like giving a drug addict your wallet.

One of the things I had considered was to recon myself, how hard can it be?:
http://www.lima-shop.de/site/index.php/cat/c11_Lichtmaschinen-Teile.html

Or, if you fancy a new one, you'd have to be barking mad to give BMW or anyone else half a grand. For that money I'd ask them if they're planning a ski holiday after I pay them.
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/BMW-5-Series-E39-520i-525i-530i-00-Alternator-With-Pulley-OE-spec-New-/321535270232?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4adcfedd58

greasepalm

and at this time of year in very cold wet conditions i would recommend a new one over repaired as alternator will be at full whack keeping battery topped up with your extras running,lights,wipers,heated rear window,blower/demister.

dr.fuzzenstein

greasepalm wrote: »

and at this time of year in very cold wet conditions i would recommend a new one over repaired as alternator will be at full whack keeping battery topped up with your extras running,lights,wipers,heated rear window,blower/demister.

Once you replace the regulator, brushes and bearing, there is no difference. The stator has to be OK and the contacts (commutator) that the brushes run against have to be good too. Easy to spot, burnt out stator will look discolored and usually the label of the alternator looks slightly fried and a worn commutator will have deep grooves in it.
Of course it's not for everyone, but handing the alternator (or entire car) to an auto electrics place is the best way if you don't want to have a go at it yourself.
Handing it over to a regular mechanic would be daft. This is a specialists job.

CJhaughey

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

Handing it over to a regular mechanic would be daft. This is a specialists job.

Depends on the mechanic, its not that hard a job but requires a degree of skill and being handy with a soldering Iron in some cases.
My mechanic does it all the time, but maybe he is just gifted.

Trojan

Thanks all for the info & suggestions. I fully charged the battery (at least according the to charging unit) and headed for the garage this morning. Car died about 3.5km away, in the most awkward of places, so I've spent the last 90 mins waiting for a tow

Someone suggested it could be the V belt on the alternator, or the alternator itself - hopefully Valdas will be able to diagnose it fairly handy.

I'd rather keep the spend below €200 or even €150, if a good reconditioned unit is available I'll be tempted. Otherwise I see that there seems to be a couple different manufacturers with alternators compatible with the e39, Bosch being the OE. Will check out options there.

Damn glad I had my big Berghaus coat in the car, bloody freezing otherwise

Trojan

Existing alternator reconditioned. €200 & 24 hours.

Idbatterim

Existing alternator reconditioned. €200 & 24 hours.

not bad, bm would probably have charged E500 odd for a new one, you could have probably gotten a used tested one for a lot cheaper from the uk on ebay etc though. When my started motor failed on my E46, I was able to pick up a reconditioned bosch original for E30 from an Irish seller, talk about luck!