Steeping... lazy mans question

TheDuke

A lazy mans question -

I've stopped using cloths to steep but let the grain sit straight in the water (At 60c - 70c for 45-60 mins) and then strain it through a cloth before starting the boil process.

In my simple thought process I'm thinking it's somewhere between maching and steeping - best of both worlds with minimal fuss (I still use LME of course).

Maybe my taste buds a blunted but I don't notice any negatives from this.

Just wondering what people think... maybe too much corner cutting...

TheDuke

funny how i havent got a single anwer to this one... I'm going to file this under 'bad idea'...

Knifey Spoony

TheDuke wrote: »

A lazy mans question -

I've stopped using cloths to steep but let the grain sit straight in the water (At 60c - 70c for 45-60 mins) and then strain it through a cloth before starting the boil process.

In my simple thought process I'm thinking it's somewhere between maching and steeping - best of both worlds with minimal fuss (I still use LME of course).

Maybe my taste buds a blunted but I don't notice any negatives from this.

Just wondering what people think... maybe too much corner cutting...

Since no one else chimed in, I might as well give my two cents...

I can't see anything wrong with what you are doing. But, if you are straining the grain after, why not just keep the grain in the cloth you used to strain during the steeping process? Seems that would be the most straight forward and least hassle free method.

As for being between mashing (maching??) and steeping: you are only mashing if you have enzyme action going on, converting starch to sugar. You only get this if use base malt and hold at a certain water temperature for an hour or so. When steeping, you are using speciality malts, which (generally) have their starches already converted sugar when you get them. This all assumes that you are not partial mashing, using both base malt and LME/DME.

slayerking

As already stated, its still just steeping your doing, no mashing is occuring unless you have some base malt in there.
To me, it doesnt seem like cutting corners to be honest, I'd imagine the muslin bag of grain is more convenient as you dont have to deal with rogue grain everywhere in your steep water and you can just sparge through the muslin.

*IF* you were considering using some similar technique to mash some grains, you'd have to be careful with something called mash thickness - its essentially the grain to water ratio you use. This can affect things like efficiency and wort fermentability. Also, temperature is *much* more important in mashing than in steeping. So if considering mashing, you'd need to ensure you can maintain a pretty consistent temperature - Turning on/off the hob usually isnt advisable as you might get some burn at the bottom where the heat source is.

For steeping though, your technique is fine, I cant see any problems with it.

TheDuke

Thanks guys... Really appreciate the responses... Man there's a lot to this brewing stuff!!

I buy my grain from homebrewwest... I thought this was the same you'd use for mashing... will follow up on that..

Knifey Spoony

TheDuke wrote: »

Thanks guys... Really appreciate the responses... Man there's a lot to this brewing stuff!!

I buy my grain from homebrewwest... I thought this was the same you'd use for mashing... will follow up on that..

Depends on the type of grain. Throw up a few names of grains you have used and we'll see if they are base malts (should be mashed) or specialty malts (can be steeped).

TheDuke

Thanks - here's the order list and the mix I use for steeping depending on batch (still experimenting)

80%-100% - Bohemian Pilsner Malt (Germany) 3 EBC - Crushed
20% or less - Crystal Wheat Malt 110 EBC - Crushed
10%iah strong caramel flavour - Cara Amber Malt 70 EBC - Crushed
once only didn't like it - Crystal Rye Malt 160 EBC - Crushed

(total weight around 180g to 220g and leave sit at 65c+/- for 30 to 45 mins - I know a little rich but though being a novice I like the strong flavour)

.... I know it wasn't asked but here's the rest of my experimentation basics

I use Coopers Light LME 750g+/- as the base and always add a little dextrose 50g+/- for a few more % revs. (on 5l batches)

> Experimenting with different Yeast and getting good results on M84 Mangrove Jack's Bohemian Lager and Mangrove Workhorse.
> Hops I stick with Bulldog Tettnanger Hop Pellets 100g Alpha: 4-5% - going to experiment shorly on hops
> When bottling I go for high CO2 content so generous on the dextros (no bottle bomb so far - fingers crossed) - 50g to 5l
> always a healthy pinch of Irish moss

Just drinking one of my latest and it's fantastic.... my darling wife sent me to the shop for some [generic brand beer of her choice], and whilst a little hurt I went, and the taste comparison just blew both of us away... I can never drink a brand beer ever again.... nice one! Happy Christmas...

Thanks again...

Carawaystick

That Pilsner malt is base malt and can be mashed

If you have a digital thermometer
Heat your water to 67 degrees, add pilsner malt
Try wrapping the mash up or insulating it to keep the temp steady, or add some hotter water over the hour

TheDuke

Thanks a mil!

As a rough ratio I presume that I can take 100g base malt as 80g LME (to reduce LME for ever 100g mashed).
Ref - http://www.jaysbrewing.com/2011/11/17/lazy-chart-for-converting-dme-lme-grain/

One other quesiton - how can you tell it's base malt from the description?

Knifey Spoony

TheDuke wrote: »

One other quesiton - how can you tell it's base malt from the description?

I don't think there is a hard and fast rule about telling what is a base and what is a specialty malt.

Might be worth taking a read through this:

http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-1.html

You can also buy a more up to date version of that book, "How to Brew" by John Palmer. It's a great book for learning the basics of brewing.

TheDuke

Thanks... I've read through his stuff before but didn't or couldn't link it mentally to my stuff... thanks... with every brew I try and challenge myself further so this is really helpful... helps me get to grips with the core principles of brewing...