Circuit breaker tripping

Wearb

I am on a breakdown where the heating was tripping circuit breaker. When I arrived and tried it the boiler ran for a few minutes before cutting out. Because the system was cold and it cutout so soon in the boiler stat I suspected the circulating pump. No heat going to rads. No movement from bleed screw. Live and neutral ok to pump.
Is it ok to suspect pump and change it? I don't normally do much at the wet end, but have on occasion.

K.Flyer

When you say no movement at the bleed screw, I presume you mean that there is no movement on the end of the pump shaft and with power going to it the breakers trip. If thats the case throw in a new pump.

Wearb

K.Flyer wrote: »

When you say no movement at the bleed screw, I presume you mean that there is no movement on the end of the pump shaft and with power going to it the breakers trip. If thats the case throw in a new pump.

Yes. No sign of any shaft movement. Breaker no longer trips, but still no shaft movement with power at pump connector. No sign if burning, but a slight smell of burning. I don't have a pump and a few plumbers that I do work for aren't answering phone. I have borrowed an oil filled electric rad for him and along with a dry stove and immersion, he will be ok until Monday.
Thanks for replying KFlyer

scudo2

Wearb wrote: »

I am on a breakdown where the heating was tripping circuit breaker. When I arrived and tried it the boiler ran for a few minutes before cutting out. Because the system was cold and it cutout so soon in the boiler stat I suspected the circulating pump. No heat going to rads. No movement from bleed screw. Live and neutral ok to pump.
Is it ok to suspect pump and change it? I don't normally do much at the wet end, but have on occasion.

I'm just back home after simular problem.
Lovely old valves that do work + no rusting.
Simple replacment of pump.

Hate the valves that were on a simular tread last week. (Leaky type)

Wearb

scudo2 wrote: »

I'm just back home after simular problem.
Lovely old valves that do work + no rusting.
Simple replacment of pump.

Hate the valves that were on a simular tread last week. (Leaky type)

Yep. Old slotted valves on this one also. Btw do you know if the wheel type pump valves are a direct swap? i.e. Are they the same length, to fit without any pipe cutting or extending?

scudo2

Wearb wrote: »

Yep. Old slotted valves on this one also. Btw do you know if the wheel type pump valves are a direct swap? i.e. Are they the same length, to fit without any pipe cutting or extending?

If the valves work and don't weep leave them.
New gate valve type take up a bit more length, so you'd have to cut the pipe a bit.
The good old ball valves had a screwdriver slot about the size of a 20cent coin, rarealy leaks !!!
Bad type is smaller.

K.Flyer

It all depends on the old valves. Some of the older valves can be longer, the newer ones tend to be a bit shorter, which will involve nipping a bit of pipe off.
Either way, if you are changing them its a drain down anyway, so have a 310 to hand if you need to cut the pipe back to get the correct distance.

Dtp1979

K.Flyer wrote: »

It all depends on the old valves. Some of the older valves can be longer, the newer ones tend to be a bit shorter, which will involve nipping a bit of pipe off.
Either way, if you are changing them its a drain down anyway, so have a 310 to hand if you need to cut the pipe back to get the correct distance.

What's the 310 for?

Wearb

Dtp1979 wrote: »

What's the 310 for?

I presume it's in case a pipe needs to be lengthened.

K.Flyer

Dtp1979 wrote: »

What's the 310 for?

Wearb wrote: »

I presume it's in case a pipe needs to be lengthened.

Occasionally you find what I refer to as a longer isolation valve which uses a 311 (similar to the picture) on a pump. When removed the gate valve type are too short, so you need to add in a piece of copper to make it up.

Dtp1979

Wearb wrote: »

I presume it's in case a pipe needs to be lengthened.

Why would it need to be lengthened? The new valves are longer than the standard ball valve types.

Dtp1979

K.Flyer wrote: »

Occasionally you find what I refer to as a longer isolation valve which uses a 311 (similar to the picture) on a pump. When removed the gate valve type are too short, so you need to add in a piece of copper to make it up.

Very true indeed

DGOBS

Love my electric pipe freezer!

Dtp1979

DGOBS wrote: »

Love my electric pipe freezer!

How long does it take to freeze 1" tony?

DGOBS

About 20mins. But when your sitting there with no new set of pump valves I wouldn't care if it was an hour, would normally spend the time cleaning and servicing the boiler etc while waiting for it.

But useless if there is even slight water movement from a small leak