Problem re-engaging drive

lismore7

Seem to be developing an issue with the drive on my road bike.
After having done over 4000k on it last year, i've developed an issue engaging the drive when I stop, then re-start pedelling.
After I stop then re-start pedelling, the forward pedal stroke does'nt seem to always catch the gears...therefore no drive for up to 3/4s of a pedal stoke rotation and usually after this, there is a loud crank sound as it beds in and catches as normal.

I feel a trip this week to my LBS coming on, but am curious to know what the fault is and what I've done to cause it??

monkeyslayer

you probably need a new bottom bracket

Eamonnator

I think your problem is with your free hub. The pawls are not engaging, because there's dirt and lunge collected around them.
If you have the tools, patience and are good with small springs, it is not a big job.

WillyFXP

Eamonnator wrote: »

I think your problem is with your free hub. The pawls are not engaging, because there's dirt and lunge collected around them.
If you have the tools, patience and are good with small springs, it is not a big job.

this^^

Eamonnator

http://dirtmountainbike.com/features/work-freehub-body.html#kPOU50TtrIFim3p7.97

This might explain it better

Cee-Jay-Cee

Definitely sounds like the pawls are not engaging/sticking. What wheels have you? You should be able to find a video on YouTube on how to remove the freehub and clean and lube the pawls. It's a fairly simple job with the majority of wheels and only basic tools are required.

2 Wheels Good

Thought it was difficulty getting back on the bike after Christmas!

lismore7

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

Definitely sounds like the pawls are not engaging/sticking. What wheels have you? You should be able to find a video on YouTube on how to remove the freehub and clean and lube the pawls. It's a fairly simple job with the majority of wheels and only basic tools are required.

Easton wheels

After watching a You tube vid as you suggested, I think that may be the cause of my problem alright.

However while viewing the vid, I quickly realised that it's deffo a trip to the LBS...too much fiddiling around with nuts, seals and bearings for my level of bike maintenance.
I think if I went at it, I'd still end up taking my bike to my LBS, along with a plastic bag of various internal components and a red face!!

C3PO

These problems usually get worse during cold weather as the grease in the free hub becomes thicker and less fluid. Common issue with mountain bikes on really cold days!

lismore7

C3PO wrote: »

These problems usually get worse during cold weather as the grease in the free hub becomes thicker and less fluid. Common issue with mountain bikes on really cold days!

Is this a commen fault on road bikes and can it be avoided?
My bike is a Cube Gtc Agree and I didn't experience this issue with my last bike, a 2nd hand Giant (Alum)

I have since noticed that the rear wheel is now making a "gritty" noise when I spin it...

We're off to the LBS today..

inc21

free hub

piston

I've "fixed" this problem on many freewheel blocks by laying the bike on it's side and adding light oil or a spray of WD40 or similar into the freewheel unit while rotating the wheel. The oil will soften the grease and unstick the pawls. Never had to do it on a cassette hub but don't see why it wouldn't work.

Cee-Jay-Cee

lismore7 wrote: »

Easton wheels

After watching a You tube vid as you suggested, I think that may be the cause of my problem alright.

However while viewing the vid, I quickly realised that it's deffo a trip to the LBS...too much fiddiling around with nuts, seals and bearings for my level of bike maintenance.
I think if I went at it, I'd still end up taking my bike to my LBS, along with a plastic bag of various internal components and a red face!!

There should be no need to remove seals and bearings if you only want to clean the freehub and pawls. The videos were probably for servicing the entire hub, bearing included. You simply need to remove the freehub, clean and lube the pawls and reinstall it and the cassette. It really is only a ten minute job and an Allen keys and/or spanner is all that's needed.

Watch this video.

http://youtu.be/8e-Ygjm9oWY

lismore7

Just thought i'd follow up on my thread now that the probelm has been resolved. This experience might be useful to some?

The rear hub was indeed at fault. It had no grease left in it! causing friction which in turn wore out the teeth on the sprocket. This then caused the pedals not to engage correctly if i stopped pedalling then started again.

And the initial cause of this problem......I regulary used de-greaser when cleaning the chain and rear drive train, this then seeped into the rear hub, removing more and more grease each time, till finally there wsn't sufficient grease in the bearings...

Painful lesson...no more de-greaser..just good old fashioned soap and hot water, as recommended by my LBS...
Expensive lesson learned, as had to replace rear hub

Lumen

lismore7 wrote: »

I regulary used de-greaser when cleaning the chain and rear drive train

How did you apply the degreaser?

lismore7

Lumen wrote: »

How did you apply the degreaser?

With a toothbrush and then dipping it into the liquid de-greaser and scrubbing the chain and rear drive drive train.
But only when they were really manky