Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie

Knocking two rooms into one.

Options
  • 09-01-2015 6:44pm
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 3,214 ✭✭✭


    Looking for a rough idea how much it would cost to remove an interior wall between dining room and sitting room,install support(i'd prefer a wooden beam to an rsj),plaster and finish.

    The wall is approx 14 feet longx 7 ft high and made of cinderblock...although part of it is only a stud wall as it it used to be a double door opening.

    The joists upstairs run parallel to the wall so i'd imagine a support beam would be necessary.


Comments

  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 39,452 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    chopper6 wrote: »
    Looking for a rough idea how much it would cost to remove an interior wall between dining room and sitting room,install support(i'd prefer a wooden beam to an rsj),plaster and finish.

    The wall is approx 14 feet longx 7 ft high and made of cinderblock...although part of it is only a stud wall as it it used to be a double door opening.

    The joists upstairs run parallel to the wall so i'd imagine a support beam would be necessary.

    The RSJ COULD BE IN AND AROUND €300 depending on size and weight and connections required or available at each end.

    A timber structural bean could be done but it would need to be specifically designed by an engineers. Same goes for the RSJ BTW.

    You really need somebody to look at it and see what's required.

    Ball park figure of 2k would be my "Friday night not taking out the guidance documents" quote :)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 49 mykillokneel


    Did something similar last year came in around the 2k mark I think but wasn't as big as 14 feet. Priced one before Xmas for 1300 but that's timber frame so less mess and just double doors
    You say joists are running parallel to wall? Might not be load bearing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 363 ✭✭Handsandtools


    price range 1000-2000, depends on whats involved and what kind of finish has to be! If it's not load bearing wall, as it's sounds, it can be 1000-1200 euros.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 3,214 ✭✭✭chopper6


    Just checked and there's only the bedroom floor immediately above the wall...the wall for the other bedroom is further back.

    If any body in the finglas area wants to have a look at the job please pm me


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 39,452 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    chopper6 wrote: »
    Just checked and there's only the bedroom floor immediately above the wall...the wall for the other bedroom is further back.

    If any body in the finglas area wants to have a look at the job please pm me

    I'd still advise caution. Last thing you need is go at it with a big hammer and it affects the structure of the house.

    A load bearing wall doesn't just take walls above it, it can also be breaking the span of timber joists above ie. reducing the length that the joists have to run carrying the load above.

    It's a job that has to be ducked properly, plasterboard stripped back to expose exactly what the wall is doing.


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users Posts: 23,541 ✭✭✭✭ted1


    Why have a wooden or RSJ at all?
    Conceal the beam in the ceiling and you'll have a much better too without a box cutting it in half. It'll cost a little but extra but in my opinion is well worth it


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 49 mykillokneel


    kceire wrote: »
    I'd still advise caution. Last thing you need is go at it with a big hammer and it affects the structure of the house.

    A load bearing wall doesn't just take walls above it, it can also be breaking the span of timber joists above ie. reducing the length that the joists have to run carrying the load above.

    It's a job that has to be ducked properly, plasterboard stripped back to expose exactly what the wall is doing.

    Agree. If joists are on the wall from front and back its load bearing no wall above doesn't mean it's not. Are you sure it's not the floorboards run parallel if so the joists are on it. All speculation til someone sees it really.
    Also some people forget the floor when planning this kind of work, you may have timber flooring or tiles that you don't have spare or not available to buy anymore and end up replacing floor on one side to match in.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 3,214 ✭✭✭chopper6


    Agree. If joists are on the wall from front and back its load bearing no wall above doesn't mean it's not. Are you sure it's not the floorboards run parallel if so the joists are on it. All speculation til someone sees it really.
    Also some people forget the floor when planning this kind of work, you may have timber flooring or tiles that you don't have spare or not available to buy anymore and end up replacing floor on one side to match in.

    Good point re the flooring.

    I want to install a " feature" wooden saddle to fill the gap in the flooring. I have an oak effect laminate at the moment and the fireplace is also oak so that's why I'd prefer a wooden beam ( if necessary) as opposed to an rsj


  • Registered Users Posts: 363 ✭✭Handsandtools


    chopper6 wrote: »
    Good point re the flooring.

    I want to install a " feature" wooden saddle to fill the gap in the flooring. I have an oak effect laminate at the moment and the fireplace is also oak so that's why I'd prefer a wooden beam ( if necessary) as opposed to an rsj

    That's no problem, just at first need inspected what type of wall is it.


Advertisement