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I think I've ruined a brand new cast iron pan...

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  • 11-01-2015 5:53pm
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 533 ✭✭✭


    I bought a cast iron frying pan in Lidl on Friday and decided to wash & season it today.
    It said on instructions to clean in hot soapy water, dry, rub oil and heat. Which I did.
    It started to smoke something crazy (I used ciconut oil for its high smoke point!) and now is sort of scorched in a circle :(
    Can I salvage it or have I ruined it?!


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 17,040 ✭✭✭✭the beer revolu


    Sounds fine to me.
    I reckon it will all go back with use.
    Just keep it lightly oiled all the time.
    I got one too but I've only used it twice.

    Edit. Now I look at it, it was all black to start with. Not sure what you mean by scorched?


  • Registered Users Posts: 533 ✭✭✭rustyzip


    It's kinda grey, steel grey colour.
    It's the same as this one

    https://store.kaufmann-mercantile.com/products/criss-cross-iron-fry-pan

    It's scorched and there's an orange melted coat on it... Smells like urea kinda or burnt plastic. :(


  • Registered Users Posts: 17,040 ✭✭✭✭the beer revolu


    Try soaking it in just water overnight and see if any residue will rub off with a cloth or non stick scourer. Then season again but don't let it get too hot.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,274 ✭✭✭Curry Addict


    I agree with the beer revolu :) i would expect it to turn all black. Unless it has a non stick teflon coating inside or ceramic coating, it should be easy to tell.

    It sounds like the instructions are asking you to "season" it. in this case the smoking and black etc. is all normal and you need to burn the oil into it several times. Its a smokey process!


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    From the factory they apply a heavy coat of food grade oil/grease to stop iron pans rusting in transport and storage.
    This is likely what has burnt off on yours (assuming its not plastic)
    Either way steel is very robust and continued heating to remove the residue won't damage it.
    I recommend heating it hot enough to make water jump if you drop a tiny bit in and then pour maybe a cup or two of water into the pan, this will steam and come to the boil, leave it boil for a couple of minutes and any oil in the pores will come to the surface of the water as an offwhite scum.
    Drain this off and repeat, wiping the pan with some kitchen roll as it dries.
    This gets all the old oil out of the pores of the steel and will prepare it for seasoning.
    It may need a few goes to get it clean and once it is seasoned then it will be non-stick.
    Don't use detergent on it or leave food sitting in it after cooking it will take on a taste and cause damage to the pan.
    Its basically the same as you do for a Wok, same material and care.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 533 ✭✭✭rustyzip


    CJhaughey wrote: »
    From the factory they apply a heavy coat of food grade oil/grease to stop iron pans rusting in transport and storage.
    This is likely what has burnt off on yours (assuming its not plastic)
    Either way steel is very robust and continued heating to remove the residue won't damage it.
    I recommend heating it hot enough to make water jump if you drop a tiny bit in and then pour maybe a cup or two of water into the pan, this will steam and come to the boil, leave it boil for a couple of minutes and any oil in the pores will come to the surface of the water as an offwhite scum.
    Drain this off and repeat, wiping the pan with some kitchen roll as it dries.
    This gets all the old oil out of the pores of the steel and will prepare it for seasoning.
    It may need a few goes to get it clean and once it is seasoned then it will be non-stick.
    Don't use detergent on it or leave food sitting in it after cooking it will take on a taste and cause damage to the pan.
    Its basically the same as you do for a Wok, same material and care.

    Thanks so much.... I was so annoyed at myself.
    I did wash it before I oiled it.
    I think I put too much oil in when I was 'baking' it in the oven.
    Will try exactly what you said, hopefully it will work :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 533 ✭✭✭rustyzip


    I tired this last night to no avail..

    I boiled water on it three times.. each time with cold water.
    No scum formed and the water was clean.

    The only way the orangey stuff will come off (it's a v thin layer scattered in blobs throughout the pan) is if I scrape it with a knife..... It wouldn't come off with a scourer..

    Should I just try season over it?!


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    rustyzip wrote: »
    I tired this last night to no avail..

    I boiled water on it three times.. each time with cold water.
    No scum formed and the water was clean.

    The only way the orangey stuff will come off (it's a v thin layer scattered in blobs throughout the pan) is if I scrape it with a knife..... It wouldn't come off with a scourer..

    Should I just try season over it?!
    Scrape as much off as you can, then try scraping it while warm(not hot!)
    The rest should come out with a stainless scourer.
    Once its clean, season it.


  • Registered Users Posts: 1,217 ✭✭✭Photo-Sniper


    Get yourself a blunt paint scraper, take the orange off with warm water and then season the pan with oil. We have this problem in the kitchen a lot.. Usually happens with cheap pans (and when i mean cheap i mean under 200 quid cast iron pans) so you should be fine


  • Registered Users Posts: 533 ✭✭✭rustyzip


    Get yourself a blunt paint scraper, take the orange off with warm water and then season the pan with oil. We have this problem in the kitchen a lot.. Usually happens with cheap pans (and when i mean cheap i mean under 200 quid cast iron pans) so you should be fine

    Just tried this now with a blade. It is infuriating! It won't come off if I 'shave it' only if I scrape it with the v tip 'like holding a pencil' it would literalky take me about 5 hours to scrape it off like that.

    I think I officially give up!


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  • Registered Users Posts: 2,774 ✭✭✭Minder


    Heat it up and scrape it. Or if you're considering binning it, try an oven cleaner on it. Depending on how porous the steel is, it may not leave a taint.


  • Registered Users Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Can you post a pic?
    Thats a steel pan not cast iron and if all else fails you can put a bit of meths into it in the backyard and just burn the lot out.
    If you get steel pans hot enough anything inside will turn to ash and be washed out.
    Don't worry you won't hurt the pan, it will come back for more :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,503 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    I don't really know what the orange bit is ?
    Did a sticker or something melt onto the surface ? In college we seasoned new black iron pans with table salt - put the pan over a low heat ,add a good load of salt (cover the base) swizzle it round with a wooden spoon or wooden spatula - and leave it to get damn hot - every now and again give it rub with the spoon - give it 40 mins or an hour - then do the oil thing -

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



  • Registered Users Posts: 28,571 ✭✭✭✭looksee


    I got one of those Indian cooking pots that look like a wok with no handle. Friend also got one. I washed mine and seasoned it (heat oil and salt till hot - smokey, horrible pother) food from it was inedible. Friend did as instructions said and used steel wool to clean the inside of the pan very thoroughly, then washed and seasoned, and it was perfect.

    So I suggest it needs more scrubbing!


  • Registered Users Posts: 21,467 ✭✭✭✭Alun


    Markcheese wrote: »
    I don't really know what the orange bit is ?
    The OP said he used coconut oil, I wonder if there were some impurities, i.e. solid coconut, or maybe even just water in there somewhere, and the orange stuff is just effectively rust? Maybe even the steel reacted with the oil in some odd way. I'd have used ordinary vegetable cooking oil myself.


  • Registered Users Posts: 2,774 ✭✭✭Minder


    Doubt it's an impurity. Sounds like the tarry residue from over heated oil. CJ has the answer - burn it off. I've taken the carbon build up off a cast iron ridge pan by chucking the whole thing in the fire. Then keep the residue to a minimum by roasting rock salt in it after several uses. The large grains of salt pick up the black, tarry gunk and are easy to brush off once cool. Can be reused too.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,411 ✭✭✭ABajaninCork


    looksee wrote: »
    I got one of those Indian cooking pots that look like a wok with no handle. Friend also got one. I washed mine and seasoned it (heat oil and salt till hot - smokey, horrible pother) food from it was inedible. Friend did as instructions said and used steel wool to clean the inside of the pan very thoroughly, then washed and seasoned, and it was perfect.

    So I suggest it needs more scrubbing!

    You mean a Dutch pot! Very common in the West Indies - no home is complete without a Dutchie (Think Musical Youth in the 80's)!!

    And your friend is correct. Use a Brillo pad to scrub the pot, then seasoned with either groundnut or corn oil. Won't spoil the food that way.


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,367 ✭✭✭whomitconcerns


    ....a Dutchie (Think Musical Youth in the 80's)!!.


    I think that they were talking about a different type of "dutchie". :P


  • Registered Users Posts: 8,503 ✭✭✭Markcheese


    Nope, pretty sure they were talking about a West Indian cooking pot with a stew on it , and I'm pretty sure the previous poster was talking about those Indian/Pakistani cooking pots that look a bit like a wok with 2small handles -

    Slava ukraini 🇺🇦



  • Registered Users Posts: 533 ✭✭✭rustyzip


    Alun wrote: »
    The OP said he used coconut oil, I wonder if there were some impurities, i.e. solid coconut, or maybe even just water in there somewhere, and the orange stuff is just effectively rust? Maybe even the steel reacted with the oil in some odd way. I'd have used ordinary vegetable cooking oil myself.

    It kind of does seem like rust.
    I still haven't got round to getting steel scourers/brill pads to clean it!!


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,411 ✭✭✭ABajaninCork


    I think that they were talking about a different type of "dutchie". :P

    No, they weren't! 'Pass the Kouchie' was the original by the Mighty Diamonds, and yes, it DID mean that!! Wasn't appropriate for the kids to sing about, so they sang about the Dutchie which is the Dutch Pot I mentioned...

    History lesson over! :P


  • Registered Users Posts: 4,367 ✭✭✭whomitconcerns


    No, they weren't! 'Pass the Kouchie' was the original by the Mighty Diamonds, and yes, it DID mean that!! Wasn't appropriate for the kids to sing about, so they sang about the Dutchie which is the Dutch Pot I mentioned...

    History lesson over! :P

    well...there I go! Never knew that!


  • Registered Users Posts: 5 BantryBayGirl


    rustyzip wrote: »
    I bought a cast iron frying pan in Lidl on Friday and decided to wash & season it today.
    It said on instructions to clean in hot soapy water, dry, rub oil and heat. Which I did.
    It started to smoke something crazy (I used ciconut oil for its high smoke point!) and now is sort of scorched in a circle :(
    Can I salvage it or have I ruined it?!

    I have both purchased and inherited several cast iron pans over the years. If you put too much oil on the new pans to season it is very easy to scorch them - Also if you soak the pan or do not dry it properly it will develop rust spots.

    Rust Spots develop an all cast iron pans that are not maintained properly. Enamel Cast Iron Pans are a better option to purchase for those who don't want the hassle of the life long care of Cast Iron.

    The following use and care instructions for "Lodge Seasoned Cast Iron" will help your cookware last a lifetime.
     
    If you do Nothing Else...
    Hand wash. Dry immediately—even before first use.
    Rub with a light coat of vegetable oil after every wash.
    How much oil? Enough to restore the sheen, without being “sticky”.
    Why? To keep the iron “seasoned” and protected from moisture.
     
    Seasoning—It isn't Salt and Pepper
    “Seasoning” is vegetable oil baked onto the iron at a high temperature: not a chemical non-stick coating.
    Seasoning creates the natural, easy-release properties. The more you cook, the better it gets.
    Because you create, maintain, and even repair the “seasoning”, your cookware can last 100 years or more. Chemical non-stick coating cannot be repaired, limiting lifespan.
     
    Let's Cook!
    Lodge Cast Iron is right at home on induction, ceramic, electric and gas cooktops, in your oven, on the grill, or even over the campfire. Do not use in the microwave.
    On glass or ceramic cooktops, lift cookware; never slide it.
    Our cookware is safe at high temperatures; use metal, wood, or hi-temp silicone utensils.
    Some foods may stick to new cookware (especially eggs). Use a little extra oil or butter until you’ve built up the seasoning.
    Acidic foods like tomatoes, beans, and certain sauces can damage seasoning, and should be avoided until the seasoning is well-established.
    Cast Iron rarely needs to go above a medium heat setting when properly pre-heated. For the times when you do cook at higher temperatures, bring the pan to temperature gradually and add oil to just before adding food to prevent sticking.
    Our handles get hot; use mitts. Use trivets to protect countertops from hot cookware.
     
    To Soap or not to Soap...
    If no soap is too scary, wash with mild soapy water and dry and oil immediately. However, consider that cookware is 400ºF in 4 minutes on medium heat and is sterile at 212º F, so soap isn’t always necessary.
    Dishwashers, strong detergents and metal scouring pads are not recommended, as they remove seasoning.
     
    Rust?! Don't Panic, it's not Broken
    Without protective seasoning iron can rust.
    It’s really easy to fix. Scour the rust, rinse, dry, and rub with a little vegetable oil.
    If problem persists, you will need to thoroughly remove all rust and follow our re-seasoning instructions (below).
     
    Refurbish Your Finish
    While maintaining the seasoning should keep your Cast Iron and Carbon Steel in good condition, at some point you may need to re-season your cookware. If food sticks to the surface, or you notice a dull, gray color, repeat the seasoning process:
    * Wash the cookware with hot, soapy water and a stiff brush. (It is okay to use soap this time because you are preparing to re-season the cookware).
    * Rinse and dry completely.
    * Apply a very thin, even coating of MELTED solid vegetable shortening (or cooking oil of your choice) to the cookware inside and out. Too much oil will result in a sticky finish.
    * Place aluminum foil on the bottom rack of the oven (not directly on bottom) to catch any drips.
    * Set oven temperature to 350 – 400 degrees F.
    * Place cookware upside down on the top rack of the oven to prevent pooling.
    * Bake the cookware for at least one hour. After the hour, turn the oven off and let the cookware cool in the oven.
    * Store the cookware uncovered, in a dry place when cooled.
    * Repeat as necessary.  

    From website lodgemfg.com Use-and-care/seasoned-cast-iron-use-and-care


    I personally don't oil and season the pans I use for baking Soda Bread - I keep them from sticking by lining them with either the parchment paper.

    If there is lots of rust and gunk you could try soaking it with a mixture of water and either

    • Baking soda
    • Lemon Juice and Sea Salt
    • Vinegar
    • 20% Hydrogen chloride (HCl)
    Start with Baking Soda and a Scouring Pad and failing that try the other 3 options. It is best to try the 1st 3 at least twice before moving onto HCI

    • To avoid getting smudges on all your kitchen towels, designate ONE to use Exclusively for drying your cast-iron skillet or use paper towels to dry.
    Remember to dry it complete on the stove or oven and occasionally apply a light wipe of vegetal oil as needed before storing.

    Once you start cooking with Cast Iron you will not want to use anything else. I also own several sizes of ENAMEL CAST IRON DUTCH OVENS and GRILLING PANS.
    You don't need a fancy name brand. I purchased the KitchenAid brand and love them. They are designed with a special lid with dimples that drop the moisture back into the pot, not losing any liquid from your recipe.

    Good Luck and Happy Cooking :)


  • Registered Users Posts: 4 ijusty


    doesent sound like a proper cast iron an to be honest ,, I would just chuck it and put it down to experience


  • Registered Users Posts: 17,040 ✭✭✭✭the beer revolu


    ijusty wrote: »
    doesent sound like a proper cast iron an to be honest ,, I would just chuck it and put it down to experience

    I have the same pan.
    It's an iron pan but not cast iron afaik.
    I love it. Heats up quicker than my cast iron one as it's lighter (obviously doesn't hold heat as well, though) and after a couple of uses it has a great non stick surface.


  • Registered Users Posts: 7,821 ✭✭✭stimpson


    I spent many many hours researching pan seasoning after I had a similar problem to the OP. I ended up boiling the **** out of a baking soda solution to remove the waxy crap, but I still couldn't get a good season on the pan (it kept flaking off)

    This site has all you need to know: http://sherylcanter.com/wordpress/2010/01/a-science-based-technique-for-seasoning-cast-iron/

    But it boils down to two things: Flaxseed oil and lots of heat.

    I modified her method slightly by using the barbecue, but it was basically this:

    1. Heat up bbq
    2. Use a kitchen towel and put a very thin layer of flaxseed oil on the pan
    3. Put the pan face down on the bbq. Put the lid on the bbq
    4. Wait 10 mins
    5. Using a good oven glove and a pair of tongs, apply another very thin layer of oil and put it back on the bbq
    6. Repeat at least half a dozen times (or a dozen in my case)

    To remove my previous attempts at seasoning I used oven cleaner on the pan and put it in a plastic shopping bag. It came out shiny and took the new seasoning perfectly. I suggest the OP attempts this as it should take it back to bare metal.

    Oh, and a note on general usage. Don't fry tomatoes or other acidic food on a seasoned pan. Unless you like eating carbon with your sausages. It causes the seasoning to flake off. Which reminds me... Need to get some flaxseed oil.


  • Registered Users Posts: 533 ✭✭✭rustyzip


    I have the same pan.
    It's an iron pan but not cast iron afaik.
    I love it. Heats up quicker than my cast iron one as it's lighter (obviously doesn't hold heat as well, though) and after a couple of uses it has a great non stick surface.

    I just pulled this pan out again this morning... Soaked it with loads fairy liquid and bizarrely some of the orange residue came off (a bit like rust!)
    The pan now seems relatively smooth.. It's silver with speckled black!!
    Do you mind me asking how you maintained yours or how it looks now?!
    Thanks!


  • Registered Users Posts: 17,040 ✭✭✭✭the beer revolu


    rustyzip wrote: »
    I just pulled this pan out again this morning... Soaked it with loads fairy liquid and bizarrely some of the orange residue came off (a bit like rust!)
    The pan now seems relatively smooth.. It's silver with speckled black!!
    Do you mind me asking how you maintained yours or how it looks now?!
    Thanks!

    I actually don't use the pan very much as I have a cast iron pan but it does get used if I'm doing really big pork chops that won't fit in the smaller pan.

    I just give it a quick scrub in hot soapy water (soak it if necessary) then dry it well on heat and rub a little oil on it. Despite it not getting used so often it has built up a nice black coating.

    aBqzqpO.jpg


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