I hate bottom brackets

The Cycling pianist

Evening guys.

So, I started to strip all the old components off an old frame today with a view to upgrading it by putting on a new groupset (Tiagra) myself. Started off pretty well, but ran into a brick wall with the bottom bracket (surprise surprise). It's a british threaded square spindle, and neither of the cups will budge. I've tried a cheater bar for extra leverage, and I know I'm turning the wrench the right way. It's been in there for at least 15 years I'd say. I might try penetrating oil down the seat tube, buy in my (limited) experience, that never really works. It's an aluminium frame, anyone know what bb's are made from? Then I'd know if penetrating oil at least has some chance of working.

Anyone know any tricks? I'd try a bench vice, but I don't want to make a balls of the frame. If I can't get it out tomorrow I'll just bring it to a shop on Monday

GTDolanator

Is the frame steel??

If so heat and lots of it then put the big bar on and swing out of it

pft

The Cycling pianist wrote: »

Evening guys.

Anyone know any tricks? I'd try a bench vice, but I don't want to make a balls of the frame. If I can't get it out tomorrow I'll just bring it to a shop on Monday

I had similar troubles on an old steel bike and was eventually successful using lot of penetrating oil, the Sheldon Brown trick using bolts (http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html) and a lot of persistence and elbow grease. I snapped the bolt on the first attempt as the bolt was too small. I was about to give in and tried once more with a larger bolt and more penetrating oil. I now have a large bolt firmly attached to the old fixed cup but at least its free. Good luck.

The Cycling pianist

@pft yeah, I saw that Sheldon Brown article earlier but haven't tried it yet. I'm about to put the wheels back on and stand on the wrench. If that doesn't work I'll soak it in penetrating oil overnight

JBokeh

Give it a slight shock the wrong way first,may break the corrosion that is probably after forming in the threads.

A good penetrating oil will help too,something like plus gas or that really nice smelling stuff from Wurth does a much better job than wd40. Aluminium expands more than steel under heat,so heating it would loosen it,though I wouldn't heat an aluminium frame as they're heat treated for added strength.

I've a few tricks up my sleeve for this so hopefully one of my tips works,

Tip 1: Rather than adding pressure try shocking it out,hit the ratchet/breaker bar with a hammer

Tip 2: Use 2 tools,get 2 ratchets,each with a BB tool on the end,and have one on each cup,at 180 degrees to each other,you get a lot of mechanical advantage this way. You'll find that once one cracks loose the other isn't far behind,I think maybe a bit of tension is put on the threads by the axle up the centre. Just mid yourself this way,as when they break loose they do so suddenly,and you may end up falling onto the bike if you're applying a good bit of force to it

Tip 3: Only had to do this once,but I had to get an impact gun onto it,did a brilliant job and it spun straight off,best doing this with one where you can adjust the torque,and keep the pressure on it,if the tool jumps out of the splines it will be toast.

The Cycling pianist

@JBokeh - I've tried hitting the bar with a hammer, no such luck. I've never heard of that tip 2 though, and it seems like a really good idea. I'm not sure if anyone I know has an impact driver, so Tip 2 will be the one to try next

tonycon28

I can't post a URL as I don't have enough posts. Do a search for this video on youtube by thunderusa

How To Remove A Frozen Stiff Bottom Bracket Cartridge:

The Cycling pianist

@tonycon28 I read about that method earlier, and was just trying it wuth the crank bolt, which is too short. I have a good feeling about that method, I'll search the shed tomorrow for the right length bolt and give it a shot

Brian?

The Cycling pianist wrote: »

@tonycon28 I read about that method earlier, and was just trying it wuth the crank bolt, which is too short. I have a good feeling about that method, I'll search the shed tomorrow for the right length bolt and give it a shot

No matter what you plan to do next, use the penetrating oil now. It'll only help the situation.

The Cycling pianist

The ****er finally came out. Left some penetrating oil down the seat tube overnight, then attacked it again this afternoon. I used the crank arm bolt and a couple of washers to fasten the BB tool to the frame in order to eliminate slippage, which was my main problem. Ended up using a vise grips tied with a toe strap to the seat tube to stop the spindle spinning on the other side. Took about half an hour of using a cheater bar and quarter-turn increments, but it finally came out. Hat tip to tonycon28 for the video

diomed

Any personal injuries?

The Cycling pianist

diomed wrote: »

Any personal injuries?

No, thankfully. Fecking tired though

inc21

Remember to put some copper grease on the new BB threads so you would avoid same issue in 15 years time.