Zeoring .22lr

Mr.b18

Well lads new to this just wondering dose it matter what mag I set my scope to when zeoring at 50 yards. Any help appreciated thanks.

reniwren

Rifle Sight-in Process - Long Range Shooting Tech…: http://youtu.be/aDrrJA14wtg



But don't dry fire a rim fire rifle

One shot on kill

What's the scope.
To be honest It shouldn't really matter what may the scope is at. Are you using the rifle for target or hunting purposes.

The only reason the magnification should make a difference is when judging distance with a milldot reticle.


Some times magnification can alter your point of impact but it rarely happens.

Mr.b18

One shot on kill wrote: »

What's the scope.
To be honest It shouldn't really matter what may the scope is at. Are you using the rifle for target or hunting purposes.

The only reason the magnification should make a difference is when judging distance with a milldot reticle.

Some times magnification can alter your point of impact but it rarely happens.

Rifle is just for hunting its a Hawke 3x9x50 map on a 452. Another question I have which may sound stupid should the target be level with me when zeoring ( ie elevated above me) thanks for the help so far

One shot on kill

No hasd that's why were here pal.

No it wouldn't really matter but try minimise it if you can but me myself I would be two worried. Just make sure it's not extreme elevation. I've often zeroed on the side of a pit or that and it's been fine.

Lovely little rigle you got. Hope it zeros up well lad.

Mr.b18

One shot on kill wrote: »

No hasd that's why were here pal.

No it wouldn't really matter but try minimise it if you can but me myself I would be two worried. Just make sure it's not extreme elevation. I've often zeroed on the side of a pit or that and it's been fine.

Lovely little rigle you got. Hope it zeros up well lad.

Thanks still I was out today got it grouping on paper just just couldn't fine tune it to where I wanted to ( the cross I was pointing at) I am confused by the markings on my windage and elevation. On the top turrets it says 1 quarter moa at 100 yards and a arrorw going clockwise wit L. The turrets on the side is the sane but instead of L has UP. I Can't fine tune it to center. Would firing different ammoair much difference to zero ?


Forgot to add scope is by 40 and not 50 as mentioned previously

Vegeta

Sounds like the scope is not correctly mounted.

The top turret usually has the up and down markings

The side turret usually has the left and right markings.

Seems odd that your scope has it the other way around. Can't say I've ever seen a scope with it reversed but maybe they do exist like that but I have not used one personally.

Mr.b18

Vegeta wrote: »

Sounds like the scope is not correctly mounted.

The top turret usually has the up and down markings

The side turret usually has the left and right markings.

Seems odd that your scope has it the other way around. Can't say I've ever seen a scope with it reversed but maybe they do exist like that but I have not used one personally.

I was under that impression myself that there was something up with that alright that is wasn't normal. I can only get it about 6 iches. Low and 6 inches to the left. I can judge the hold of I need to hit a target but its very annoying having to

Cass

You have it mounted wrong. The top turret should always be elevation and the side turret windage.

Take it off and turn the scope, then re-zero.

Mr.b18

Cass wrote: »

You have it mounted wrong. The top turret should always be elevation and the side turret windage.

Take it off and turn the scope, then re-zero.

Thanks for the help I bought the gun like that so who ever put it on messed it up. Dose that mean my windage will now be located on right apose to left ? And is it a case of take it off by opening mounts and rotating it ?

One shot on kill

If your around Kildare bud I might be able to help you out.

Don't worry to much about the adjustments. 1/4 MOA @ 100yards is just how the adjustments are measured. An MOA is 1 inch at 100yards. So 1 click on your scope will only move your poi ( point of impact ) a quarter of an inch of your target is exactly 100 yards away.

I can't seem to copy the link from YouTube at the minute but if you search for. Understanding minute of angle. The same guy from the national shooting sports foundation has a video explaining it and I think it's very very good. He actaly also has a video on how to fit your scope. I think it's called setting your scope up for success. That guy ryan cleckner dies excellent videos in my opinion anyway.

Cass

Mr.b18 wrote: »

Dose that mean my windage will now be located on right apose to left ?

It means you're windage will act as your elevation and elevation as your windage.

And is it a case of take it off by opening mounts and rotating it ?

Yup. Follow this guide.

Start at 50 yds. Go back to basics. Open rings and remove scope. Check ring bases are securely fixed to rifle/rail. Place scope back into ring bases. Check for eye relief. Place the top piece of the rings back on and loosely screw down. Do not tighten yet. Once again check your eye relief. Use either sprit levels or the piece of string method to line up the crosshairs on your scope (or whatever works for you). Without moving the scope tighten down all screws. Now your scope is back on and ready to be sighted in.

Turn the clicks on the scope (elevation) down to the lowest setting. Now turn the clicks on your windage adjustment all the way left (or right). Now turn it in the other direction while keeping count of the mintes/clicks. If its (for talks sake) 50 moa turn it back 25. Now your windage is centralised. Place the rifle in a clamp and check its level. When you peer down the barrel make sure the circle made by the muzzle is central in the circle made by the breach.



Move the rifle (not your head) until the target (at least 2ft x 1.5ft with concentric circles) can be seen .



Now keep the target in view through the barrel while trying to keep both "circles" central. Once you think you have the target in the barrel and all aspects centralised and secured, reclamp the rifle again making sure nothing moves. Now look through the scope and see where your crosshairs are in relation to the target. Turn up your elevation turret until you are approx. level with where you have sighted the barrel. Go between the barrel sight and scope and try to narrow down the difference in "point of impact". Adjust elevation and windage as appropriate.

Bolt in and load a round. Steady yourself and fire. Check your point of impact. Adjust your scope the necessary clicks to compesate for wind drift and high or low impact. Your scope is probably .25" click value at 100yds so don't forget you'll have half that movement at 50yds. So if you are 2" out it will take 16 clicks to move the 2" rather than the 8 clicks at 100yds. Don't forget that this is scope movement, as in straight line of sight. The trajectory of the bullet being used will determine whether the full amount of clicks is needed or if more are. Anyway load a second round after adjusting the scope and fire. You should be very close if not in the bull. Adjust scope again if necessary. Load and fire a third round. this one should be in the bull (weather and shooter permitting).

Make note of the turret markings and record them as your 50 yd zero. Now move to 100yds. Fresh target. Without adjusting the scope fire at the 100yd target. Take note of the bullet drop and adjust your scope accordingly to compensate. Fire another 2 or 3 rounds to establish a group. When you are happy with your group, record the turret markings and if possible zero the turrets and keep as your 100 yd zero. You can then move to 200 and 300 if you want. Fire and adjust the scope. Record the bullet drop and click value to compensate ans voila you have your drop chart started.



If you need any help understanding any of the above or if you want i'll meet you some day in the Midlands range and go through it with you.

Wadi14

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Su9CNet7270 Have a look at this and other clips on youtube, it will def help you to understand how your scope works, and take up the offers of meeting up with the guys and they will show you how everything works.

Mr.b18

One shot on kill wrote: »

If your around Kildare bud I might be able to help you out.

Don't worry to much about the adjustments. 1/4 MOA @ 100yards is just how the adjustments are measured. An MOA is 1 inch at 100yards. So 1 click on your scope will only move your poi ( point of impact ) a quarter of an inch of your target is exactly 100 yards away.

I can't seem to copy the link from YouTube at the minute but if you search for. Understanding minute of angle. The same guy from the national shooting sports foundation has a video explaining it and I think it's very very good. He actaly also has a video on how to fit your scope. I think it's called setting your scope up for success. That guy ryan cleckner dies excellent videos in my opinion anyway.

I am in tipp but would be willing to travel no problem if it ment I could get the problem sorted

I had a look at the videos which are very informative the only part now which is has a small bit of confusion is that if a click is .25 moa at 100 yards dose it mean a click is .5 moa at 50 yards ?

Mr.b18

Cass wrote: »

It means you're windage will act as your elevation and elevation as your windage.

Yup. Follow this guide.

Thank you for the detailed post it has helped me an lot understand what I am doing better. It makes it sound easy to zero but not with this problem. The issue I think I will encounter with rotating the scope is that it will mean my mill dots will be left and right off center rather than over and under.

I may take you up on the offer of helping me out at the range. Is it open week days or weekends only as I work weekends and am off mid week.
Providing it suited you and I knew where the range is I would love to head up.

Again thanks for the help and sorry about all questions its my first rifle (and gun) and I just want to get it right

Mr.b18

Have a look at this and other clips on youtube, it will def help you to understand how your scope works, and take up the offers of meeting up with the guys and they will show you how everything works.[/quote]

Thank you for your helping hand will do my homework and try get out in the morning to see how I go

One shot on kill

Mr.b18 wrote: »

I am in tipp but would be willing to travel no problem if it ment I could get the problem sorted

I had a look at the videos which are very informative the only part now which is has a small bit of confusion is that if a click is .25 moa at 100 yards dose it mean a click is .5 moa at 50 yards ?

No at 50 yards it will be .125 of an inch or 1/8th of an inch.

Mr.b18

One shot on kill wrote: »

No at 50 yards it will be .125 of an inch or 1/8th of an inch.

I have you now meaning I would have to make twice the amount of adjustments at 50 as apose to 100. Lastly would changing ammo after zeroing cause a big difference to the poi

One shot on kill

He it would would you should zero to the one ammo and stick with it.

Best thing about the 22 is the boxs of bullets are cheap so it's easy to change and check zero again.

But you could build up a chart a record all your data.

What ammo see you using.

Cass

Mr.b18 wrote: »

............. the only part now which is has a small bit of confusion is that if a click is .25 moa at 100 yards dose it mean a click is .5 moa at 50 yards ?

As said above and as you said yourself:

Mr.b18 wrote: »

I have you now meaning I would have to make twice the amount of adjustments at 50 as apose to 100.

The value increases for distances longer than 100 (200 yard = 0.5, 300 yards = 0.75, etc) and it decreases for distances shorter than 100 (50 yards = 0.125, etc).

Lastly would changing ammo after zeroing cause a big difference to the poi

Yes.

Some ammo may have the same zero point as another brand, and some will be different. The variance for subsomic ammo would be small at 50 yards, and will increase the further out you shoot. If you want to try different ammo you need a pen and paper and record every adjustment you make, drops, etc. for each type of ammo. As said above though it's best to find one that suits and stick with it as it'll save a lot of headache down the road.

Mr.b18 wrote: »

The issue I think I will encounter with rotating the scope is that it will mean my mill dots will be left and right off center rather than over and under.

If the scope is a Hawke Sport, 3-9x50 Mil Dot then it should have mil dots on the vertical and horizontal crosshairs. Does it?

I may take you up on the offer of helping me out at the range. Is it open week days or weekends only as I work weekends and am off mid week.
Providing it suited you and I knew where the range is I would love to head up.

It's open weekdays, by appointment, to members only. Weekends are for everyone (members and guests). Mid week is not great for me, but if you're stuck i can try and make time.

Mr.b18

Thanks for all the replys lads. I got it sorted yesterday. Took off the scope rotated it and I was able zero no problems thanks to the help I got here. I zeroed to 75 yards as I felt most of my shooting will be to this range. I used cci velocitors and got a fairly good group.

My next question is how do people in the know rate the velocitors ?

@ Cass regards scope its a Hawke 3x9x40 map. I was a bit confused calling the markings on the retical mill dots I don't think they actually are ?

Cass

Mr.b18 wrote: »

I zeroed to 75 yards as I felt most of my shooting will be to this range.

Not a bad range. You'll be a little high at 50 yards and low at 100, but it'll give you a good range overall.

I used cci velocitors and got a fairly good group.

The Velocitors are high velocity. This means they travel in excess of 1,128fps as opposed to the majority of .22lr ammo that is subsonic.

My next question is how do people in the know rate the velocitors ?

To continue on from above they are not bad, but not as accurate as the subsonic stuff. The twist rate of your rifle is most likely 1:16 (there, there abouts). I know this seems technical, but you don't really need to worry about it, as i'm only mentioning it to explain a point.

In this twist rate the gun is designed to a certain range of ammo. Namely subsonic. It does not mean it will not fire the Velocitors or other high velocity ammo, just that it may not do so as well as subsonic ammo. Another such ammo are Stingers. Same principle, high velocity .22lr ammo.

They will give you better range, and less drops in your bullets. This means you can fire at small game out to 100 - 120 yards and with the proper shot placement be fairly sure of a clean kill/good hit.

The payoff for that is a drop in accuracy & a supersonic crack that you would not get with subsonic ammo. Meaning any suppressor will not be as effective in quietening the shot. However as said above try them, and some other brands of ammo.

@ Cass regards scope its a Hawke 3x9x40 map. I was a bit confused calling the markings on the retical mill dots I don't think they actually are ?

Here is the reticle of a Hawke 3-9x50




Is this what you have? If not is it this:




If it's the first one, then it's a mil dot scope and should have mil dot markings on both horizontal and vertical crosshairs. If it's the second one or something similar then it's not mil dot in the sense that there are mil dot markings to use as hold off points, but could be called a mil dot reticle because it has a dot at the centre rather than the standard crosshairs with no dot at the centre.

Nekarsulm

Eh, Cass, think you linked the wrong photo for your second scope reticule!

Cass

What?

What is showing up? I'm getting a scope reticle (may not be a Hawke one exactly but it's only for illustration purposes)

Nekarsulm

A fist with thumb sticking out between two of the fingers!

Cass

Yup. Refreshed the page and the picture changed from the picture of the scope reticle i had to the thumb/fist thingy.

Think i have it now. Cheers.

Mr.b18

Cass wrote: »

Yup. Refreshed the page and the picture changed from the picture of the scope reticle i had to the thumb/fist thingy.

Think i have it now. Cheers.

Hi Cass I have seen on YouTube how well they can group with the subs I was just under the impression it was my shooting that was at fault with the velocitors.
The reason I have not tried the subs is that I have being told they do not have much stopping power for rabbit 50 yards and under is this true in your opinion ? what do you use for rabbit control ?

The retical is like the 1st picture but not at many dots it has 1 dot above horizon 3 below. 2 the each side of vertical. And says Hawke sport hd 3-9x40 map

On second thoughts its actually a mix of the two pics and as I described above

Cass

Mr.b18 wrote: »

........ I was just under the impression it was my shooting that was at fault with the velocitors.

Not necessarily. Not to discount your shooting and place all the blame on the ammo, the velocitors can be troublesome, especially at the longer distances.

The reason I have not tried the subs is that I have being told they do not have much stopping power for rabbit 50 yards and under is this true in your opinion ?

It's all about shot placement. I would class this as far more important than the bullet. If you are concentrating on bigger/faster bullets to do the work, instead of proper shot placement then this is wrong. Not suggesting you are but i've seen lads over the years that have poor marksmanship, and rely on the biggest caliber they can to do the work for them.

A .22lr will be effected by the wind. Subsonics more than high velocity, but both still affected. I've had a .22lr in some form nearly every year for the last 20 and once i knew my limitations, the guns, and the ammo i could easily and safely take head shots on a rabbit out to 100 yards. With subsonic ammo, as i never liked the high velocity stuff.

what do you use for rabbit control ?

I have changed from .22lr to a .17hmr in the last year. Better caliber for the ground i shoot on and a devastating little round.

On second thoughts its actually a mix of the two pics and as I described above

It's the MAP6 reticle. This means each mark represents 3" "gap". So you have 3" hold above, and 3", 6", 9" below with 3" & 6" either side. This only works when your scope is on 6 power.

This is it: