pajero 2.8 Vibration

Thelostcountry

Terrible vibration coming from the rear, the U joint was fecked replaced that but did not sort the vibration :rolleyes: comes in at 50 mph and gets worse as speed increases .there is a slight leak at the Diff(pinion) it is full of oil. Diff maybe fecked although surely it would be whining



Cheers.

TrailerBob

Perhaps the prop needs to be balanced.. Could account for it.

Otherwise, check the bearing for play as it joins to the gearbox.

Thelostcountry

TrailerBob wrote: »

check the bearing for play as it joins to the gearbox.

there is a slight bit of play but nothing major ....




Cheers for reply.

CJ Haughey

Check the tyres anyway first for eggs.

Thelostcountry

Pile a ****e is still vibrating. I removed rear drive. drove it in 4wd no vibration present :eek: dropped the oil out of diff(for the crack) oil was perfect, not one bit of a metal filing on bung magnet .


So... its either shaft needs balancing or bearing in on the box rear gearbox mounts seem to be ok but i am going to double check :rolleyes:

TrailerBob

If only somebody suggested that a week ago...:D

Thelostcountry

TrailerBob wrote: »

If only somebody suggested that a week ago...:D

Yes Bob You mention that...


Where does one get a shaft balanced ?

Desolation Of Smug

If there's wear in the diff, that will cause the same symptoms. Pop off the rear cover and see if the sun and planet gear bearings are shot. Unless you hit the driveshaft, it shouldn't have gone out of balance.

TrailerBob

Just being ironic... Long day today....

A chap I know gets them done here if necessary.. Not too often mind.

http://driveshaft.ie/about-us/

If the Vibration is gone with the shaft off, then I'd suspect the shaft itself. When the UJ was done, was the shaft split? If the inner shaft was removed, it could have been reassembled out of phase... ie the end yoke is perhaps at 90 degrees to where it was.

Desolation Of Smug

TrailerBob wrote: »

Just being ironic... Long day today....

A chap I know gets them done here if necessary.. Not too often mind.

http://driveshaft.ie/about-us/

If the Vibration is gone with the shaft off, then I'd suspect the shaft itself. When the UJ was done, was the shaft split? If the inner shaft was removed, it could have been reassembled out of phase... ie the end yoke is perhaps at 90 degrees to where it was.

If the rear diff isn't being drivven, it won't vibrate...I have seen lads get drives balanced to no avail, then open the diff and find that it is in bits with no bearings left at all, and still driving. Usually a used axle sorts it easier than shimming in a used/new diff. It could well be the propshaft, but if it isn't....

Kevin McCloud

Desolation Of Smug wrote: »

If the rear diff isn't being drivven, it won't vibrate...I have seen lads get drives balanced to no avail, then open the diff and find that it is in bits with no bearings left at all, and still driving. Usually a used axle sorts it easier than shimming in a used/new diff. It could well be the propshaft, but if it isn't....

Wouldnt you imagine they be metal of some pedigree stuck to the magnet? agree though about the driveshaft not gone out of balance unless it got molested off roading and struck rocks etc.

Desolation Of Smug

Kevin McCloud wrote: »

Wouldnt you imagine they be metal of some pedigree stuck to the magnet? agree though about the driveshaft not gone out of balance unless it got molested off roading and struck rocks etc.

Dunno tbh - ever seen the transit ones where the bearings break up into dust and mix with the oil into a dirty brown sludge? Feck all metal to be seen, but not a screed of bearing left.

Kevin McCloud

Desolation Of Smug wrote: »

Dunno tbh - ever seen the transit ones where the bearings break up into dust and mix with the oil into a dirty brown sludge? Feck all metal to be seen, but not a screed of bearing left.

Transits are chocolate though, fair point though. Diff cover off as you say.

Thelostcountry

Stupidly there is no back plate(solid axle casing:rolleyes:) for bearing inspection. will have to take the whole diff out!


For anyone that is interested, I will report back later in the week.



Cheers.

Desolation Of Smug

Thelostcountry wrote: »

Stupidly there is no back plate(solid axle casing:rolleyes:) for bearing inspection. will have to take the whole diff out!


For anyone that is interested, I will report back later in the week.



Cheers.

Don't bother - put the back up in the air, wheels off the ground, use railway sleepers or whatever, and run it through the gears, as in actually drive it through the gears with the wheels spinning off the ground - make sure you chock the front wheels well and have it 100% supported. You won't be long seeing what's vibrating.

Dozer Dave

Have you Lsd op?

Thelostcountry

Dozer Dave wrote: »

Have you Lsd op?

No LSD Dave.

Dozer Dave

Are you sure yours is an open diff, thought all 2.8s had lsd. The jdm ones anyway.

Thelostcountry

Dozer Dave wrote: »

Are you sure yours is an open diff, thought all 2.8s had lsd. The jdm ones anyway.

Sorry Dave, You are right,it has an LSD!!

Thelostcountry

Finally got a chance to remove Diff. Crown and pinion look perfect! Cant see spider gears or Bearings yet as i have not striped it down. I'm not convinced it is the Diff, although I did hear a noise with her up in the air in 5th, was deffo from Diff, could have just been the sound of crown and pinion meshing

Anything else I should be looking out for??

I could do with a manual for specs preload,torque settings etc etc....

Kevin McCloud

Are your trailing arm bushes all good?

Thelostcountry

Kevin McCloud wrote: »

Are your trailing arm bushes all good?

TBH I don't know Lad... will check.


Cheers.

Thelostcountry

Nothing wrong with Diff anyway, all bearings perfect,gear pattern perfect. Back lash sound. what a waste of time taking the fooking thing out, should of known myself, when i dropped the gear oil and nothing on the magnet :rolleyes::rolleyes:

Desolation Of Smug

Thelostcountry wrote: »

Nothing wrong with Diff anyway, all bearings perfect,gear pattern perfect. Back lash sound. what a waste of time taking the fooking thing out, should of known myself, when i dropped the gear oil and nothing on the magnet :rolleyes::rolleyes:

So what's feckin causing the vibration then? If the tyres are good, the wheel bearings are good, the wheels are balanced,the prop is straight and balanced, the prop bearings are good, the gearbox output bearings are sound, and you've checked all them, then it's what??:rolleyes:

After going through the obvious list I just banged up on a fair few yokes, and finding nothing, it has turned out to be the diff. But generally, it's one of the obvious things.

pablo128

@ 50 mph onwards, there's a good chance it could simply be wheel balancing. I would start with making sure there isn't mud caked on the inside of the wheels. I've seen that plenty of times on jeeps. Then get all 4 wheels balanced, or at least checked on a balancing machine.

And don't listen to anyone telling you that you don't need to balance the rears. If they are out by enough, they will vibrate at speed.

Kevin McCloud

Desolation Of Smug wrote: »

So what's feckin causing the vibration then?

Its worse than waiting on a story line in Eastenders this. :pac:

Desolation Of Smug

pablo128 wrote: »

@ 50 mph onwards, there's a good chance it could simply be wheel balancing. I would start with making sure there isn't mud caked on the inside of the wheels. I've seen that plenty of times on jeeps. Then get all 4 wheels balanced, or at least checked on a balancing machine.

And don't listen to anyone telling you that you don't need to balance the rears. If they are out by enough, they will vibrate at speed.

I had kinda assumed all the obvious stuff had been checked tbh. I watched a lorry get pulled apart looking for a vibration that had a house-brick lodged up between the rear dual wheels.....Yeah, I kinda lolled.

Kevin McCloud

Desolation Of Smug wrote: »

I had kinda assumed all the obvious stuff had been checked tbh.

Its often bad diagnosis happens, like your story with the lorry is a classic example.

pablo128

Desolation Of Smug wrote: »

I had kinda assumed all the obvious stuff had been checked tbh. I watched a lorry get pulled apart looking for a vibration that had a house-brick lodged up between the rear dual wheels.....Yeah, I kinda lolled.

I got a lad to check the tyre pressures on a car before I done 4 wheel alignment on it. Road tested it after and it was pulling all over the place. 2 hours and 3 more attempts at the tracking before I checked the tyres myself and discovered the lying b@stard hadn't checked the pressures at all. 2 tyres on one side were low. I could have choked the dirty kunt.:mad:

Desolation Of Smug

Kevin McCloud wrote: »

Its often bad diagnosis happens, like your story with the lorry is a classic example.

Sadly, I owned that renault/dodge truck at the time and was paying the bills...the driver got all sheepish and explained that he'd "just got fed up of the shaking..." and asked the workshop to pull the drive-line apart..

Kevin McCloud

Desolation Of Smug wrote: »

Sadly, I owned that renault/dodge truck at the time and was paying the bills...the driver got all sheepish and explained that he'd "just got fed up of the shaking..." and asked the workshop to pull the drive-line apart..

That was a saucy bill for nothing.

Renegade Mechanic

Did you balance the driveshaft before or after fitting new universal joints? If you balanced the driveshaft before, the new balance is dependant on the old joints and even if theres the tiniest amount of play in them, at 2000 rpm, the difference in the new joint mount/position will put you back in square one.

Dozer Dave

Op did you ever get to the root of the problem with the vibration?

Thelostcountry

Dozer Dave wrote: »

Op did you ever get to the root of the problem with the vibration?

No. put it all back together, it is back on the road.....

Desolation Of Smug

Thelostcountry wrote: »

Nothing wrong with Diff anyway, all bearings perfect,gear pattern perfect. Back lash sound. what a waste of time taking the fooking thing out, should of known myself, when i dropped the gear oil and nothing on the magnet :rolleyes::rolleyes:

Desolation Of Smug wrote: »

Don't bother - put the back up in the air, wheels off the ground, use railway sleepers or whatever, and run it through the gears, as in actually drive it through the gears with the wheels spinning off the ground - make sure you chock the front wheels well and have it 100% supported. You won't be long seeing what's vibrating.

Did mention that tho.. Did you get the wheels carefully re-balanced?

Thelostcountry

Desolation Of Smug wrote: »

Did mention that tho.. Did you get the wheels carefully re-balanced?

Vibration still there with wheels off!

Desolation Of Smug

Thelostcountry wrote: »

Vibration still there with wheels off!

Somethings bent. Either the prop or a support bearing is gone. Has to be.

Dozer Dave

It cannot turn into an unsolved mystery, or can it?

Renegade Mechanic

Lets recap: Vibration at higher speeds.

You're positive that both front and rear driveshafts are aligned. Do you have the front driveshaft engaged? It's not damaging in a Pajo with a centre differential, Its just a little harder on fuel and you will notice some extra feedback when the front drivline is engaged. Particularly if the hubs up front arent centred.
Been off road recently? Check the front axle drive shafts for and slight bends too.

You're positive the wheels are balanced but look at the tyres when spinning. You can make a buckled tyre read "zero" on a balancing machine but you'll still feel it on the road.

Look at the mounting of the wheels aswell. Slight dirt will prevent a straight mount making the wheel wonky. Same goes for recently replaced discs, if the hubs weren't sanded smooth before new discs were fitted, they shouldn't have bothered removing the old ones tbh, as 3 times out of 10 youll catch flakes of rusty metal between the new disc and hub.

I know you say it's coming from the rear but it's time to start looking around the jeep at this stage.

Thelostcountry

I drove the jeep in 4wd with rear prop removed,No Vibration!

Thanks for the replies guys,its all a real team effort


I am going to leave it be for a while. Might try a second hand rear prop(if I can get one). that will rule out all in rear, bar Gearbox output!



Drive her on for now....

Dozer Dave

Did the vibration only start after you replaced the hardy splice?

Thelostcountry

Dozer Dave wrote: »

Did the vibration only start after you replaced the hardy splice?

The old U joint was ****ed, that is what i thought was causing the Vib.

Dozer Dave

Thelostcountry wrote: »

The old U joint was ****ed, that is what i thought was causing the Vib.

And it would no doubt and noise like a bastard too.

Desolation Of Smug

Rear propshaft is out of balance. Mystery solved. Feck off and get another propshaft...:D

Dozer Dave

Desolation Of Smug wrote: »

Rear propshaft is out of balance. Mystery solved. Feck off and get another propshaft...:D

Its looking that way, but like all soaps they could be a twist

Desolation Of Smug

Dozer Dave wrote: »

Its looking that way, but like all soaps they could be a twist

Denise Van Outen is in going to be in Eastenders...I hate Eastenders..but, Denise Van Outen....I may start watching................Denise Van Outen.........Mmmmmmmmm................

Thelostcountry

Prop not to be got in breakers:rolleyes:

Renegade Mechanic

Thelostcountry wrote: »

Prop not to be got in breakers:rolleyes:

Have a closer look at the new joint you replaced actually. Have a feel around where the caps go into the holes and be sure they're all in tge same distance? There should be circlips on them too.

Edit: Try fitting the propshaft in different positions too, If the bolts arent centric. It's good practice to tippex the flange of both the diff and the shaft before dismantling. If this wasn't done, the shaft might not have been put back the same way and might, in some cases, vibrate.

Thelostcountry

Renegade Mechanic wrote: »

Have a closer look at the new joint you replaced actually. Have a feel around where the caps go into the holes and be sure they're all in tge same distance? There should be circlips on them too.

Are You insinuating I fitted the U joint incorrectly ??


















:D






Time for an Easter Egg yet??

Renegade Mechanic

Thelostcountry wrote: »

Are You insinuating I fitted the U joint incorrectly ??
:D
Time for an Easter Egg yet??

I've fitted enough of them arseways, and without tippexing first, to know

I woke up and had one

Thelostcountry

Renegade Mechanic wrote: »

I've fitted enough of them arseways, and without tippexing first, to know

I woke up and had one

TBH I did not tip ex it.... didn't think it would make that big of a diff






Not a creed of an Egg round here:mad: