What is a Level Saddle?

NeedMoreGears

I have a standard giant saddle on a tcr. I'm wondering what constitutes level. The saddle is raised slightly at the back, then there's a flat section and then a slight rise to the nose.

If I set the nose and the rear of the saddle horizontal with each other, the centre flat section seems to point downwards. I've settled for keeping the centre section horizontal and it seems comfortable. Is this the right way to do it?

smacl

From my own experience on a B17, I go for flat from nose to centre with the back rising slightly. For me, if the nose is higher than the centre it leads to extra pressure on the perineum and all the fun that causes. I think is is a matter of finding what is most comfortable for a long spin, which is going to vary with rider and saddle design. You also have to consider the line from the saddle to the bars, where the lower the hand position, the more likely a high saddle nose will give you that unwanted pressure. I've three spacers to the bar, stem down, and ride a lot in the drops (compact) on longer spins, which has also influenced by saddle angle.

quozl

With my two specialized saddles (Toupe and even more curvy one that I can't remember the name of) the instructions said to level the centre third of the saddle. As the nose curves down and the back flares up both ends are not going to be anything like level.

Like Smacl says, it depends on the saddle but I think getting the centre flat is a good start with almost any saddle?

Brian?

My method is to place a plank on the saddle and use bubble level. I'm not sure this is 100% correct but I have no saddle related issues.

I've done this on many, many saddles.

OldBean

It differs from bike to bike, saddle to saddle, person to person. Having a 100% level saddle isn't always going to give you the best fit. My unsprung leather saddle is at its best completely level in the centre, my sprung saddle works more like an arse hammock, and rides best with the nose upwards to stop slipping forward, and the last synthetic saddle I had was best slightly nose down. Slightly.

Lumen

aFlabbyPanda

I had the same issues until I found a saddle I like (prologo scratch pro). Same as Brian? says I place a flat board over the entire saddle and used a bubble level (plus digital level on phone) to get it flat.

As the saddle is slightly waved the back looks like is higher than the nose.

The b17s I've used were all nose up and level on the rear section when checked with the level (not nose to tail if that makes sense). But each person is different, find what works for you.

ZiabR

Brian? wrote: »

My method is to place a plank on the saddle and use bubble level. I'm not sure this is 100% correct but I have no saddle related issues.

I've done this on many, many saddles.

This is also what I do, never had an issue with it.

ednwireland

Make sure the grounds level as well

Beasty

Brian? wrote: »

My method is to place a plank on the saddle and use bubble level. I'm not sure this is 100% correct but I have no saddle related issues.

I've done this on many, many saddles.

That's pretty much the UCI basis for checking whether a saddle is within its limits. A flat metal plate with an electronic spirit level placed on top

Puggy

ednwireland wrote: »

Make sure the grounds level as well

And your tire pressures are correct.

There are also gravational anomalies in certain parts of Ireland that would distort the bubble in a spirit level