Anybody custom made a Mash Tun here? Having trouble finding a cooler.

Shanbo

I've been reading and brewing extract batches for a while now. Doing research with /r/homebrewing on Reddit and various other books, I thought it was time to stop dancing around it and start an all grain batch.

I know what I need, I just can't find it anywhere. You know those rectangular coolers with the valve in the bottom? Like the ones you'd use going on a picnic, only bigger. Or a burko of sorts that's made from plastic rather than the big metal ones. The plastic ones have much better insulation for keeping temp while soaking your mash.

So does anybody know where I'd get one? Argos has the right kind of cooler but it has no valve in it. Other than that, homebrewwest or any other sites don't seem to do anything suitable.

irish_goat

You'd be better drilling a hole in the cooler and installing a tap rather than using the ones with the valves anyway, imo.

Shanbo

irish_goat wrote: »

You'd be better drilling a hole in the cooler and installing a tap rather than using the ones with the valves anyway, imo.

Thanks for the quick reply pal.

So you'd say to go with one of the ones from Argos then? It's only 35 quid so I'll be saving money, I just wanna make sure I'm not gonna mess up the insulation in it or anything if I drill it.

slayerking

Shanbo wrote: »

Thanks for the quick reply pal.

So you'd say to go with one of the ones from Argos then? It's only 35 quid so I'll be saving money, I just wanna make sure I'm not gonna mess up the insulation in it or anything if I drill it.

I picked up a cooler box from Argos (40 litre one) and made a mash tun out if it. Drilled a hole for the tap and used copper to create a manifold. Frequently, the lids are not insulated either in those cooler boxes, so I also insulated it myself by drilling some small holes and filling it with expanding insulating foam.
The only negative thing I'll say about the Argos cooler boxes is that the walls are quite thin so it can be difficult to maintain the temp for ~60 minutes, I usually loose at least a degree or 2 but I suppose that's normal/expected for most people.

Shanbo

slayerking wrote: »

I picked up a cooler box from Argos (40 litre one) and made a mash tun out if it. Drilled a hole for the tap and used copper to create a manifold. Frequently, the lids are not insulated either in those cooler boxes, so I also insulated it myself by drilling some small holes and filling it with expanding insulating foam.
The only negative thing I'll say about the Argos cooler boxes is that the walls are quite thin so it can be difficult to maintain the temp for ~60 minutes, I usually loose at least a degree or 2 but I suppose that's normal/expected for most people.

I'd be fine with a degree or two per hour. I'm looking to make good beer, but I'm not at the stage where I'm gonna try to keep temps 100% on point just yet

I probably wouldn't even insulate the top to be honest. If it was having an adverse effect on my brew, it'd definitely be something to consider down the line. Where did you get the pipe from? And what kind of tap did you end up buying/where from? Thanks pal, that's a huge help.

irish_goat

For insulation you can use an old duvet to wrap the mash tun up.

Shanbo

I was doing that with Carboys when I was brewing mead but I wasn't really keeping temp. They just needed to be "warm" haha.

slayerking

Shanbo wrote: »

I'd be fine with a degree or two per hour. I'm looking to make good beer, but I'm not at the stage where I'm gonna try to keep temps 100% on point just yet

I probably wouldn't even insulate the top to be honest. If it was having an adverse effect on my brew, it'd definitely be something to consider down the line. Where did you get the pipe from? And what kind of tap did you end up buying/where from? Thanks pal, that's a huge help.

I got all of my supplies from a local plumbing supplier. I used standard bore copper piping (can't remember if its 3/4 or 1/2, use which ever suits the tap you get), some straight and corner joins to build the manifold. Its just a matter of getting a length of pipe, cutting lengths and plumbing the inside so that if fills the base.
I use a standard outdoor lever tap. Plastic washers are also advised to help seal the tap and the cooler box. You need to cut loads of little slits in the pipes so that they act as a filter for the grain.
I used copper, but I believe many use plastic piping also - might actually be easier to work with and its also less conductive. I found my metal lever tap actually draws some heat out of the mashtun as it and the manifold are all metal.
Your manifold doesnt need to be welded/sealed up, just slot together. You will actually want to be able to take it apart to clean. When building the manifold I'd also recommend building it so its a nice snug/tight fit in the base. My first attempt did not fill the base of the cooler box so for my first few brews it fell apart and caused some headache. I soon added to it to make it a more snug fit.

I really just winged it by looking at pictures online and using my instinct. Worked out fine, its actually enjoyable building something as opposed to buying a ready made one! : )

RasTa

Yeah I've one for sale.

http://www.nationalhomebrewclub.com/forum/index.php/topic,8967.0.html

Make us an offer if ye want

Shanbo

slayerking wrote: »

I got all of my supplies from a local plumbing supplier. I used standard bore copper piping (can't remember if its 3/4 or 1/2, use which ever suits the tap you get), some straight and corner joins to build the manifold. Its just a matter of getting a length of pipe, cutting lengths and plumbing the inside so that if fills the base.
I use a standard outdoor lever tap. Plastic washers are also advised to help seal the tap and the cooler box. You need to cut loads of little slits in the pipes so that they act as a filter for the grain.
I used copper, but I believe many use plastic piping also - might actually be easier to work with and its also less conductive. I found my metal lever tap actually draws some heat out of the mashtun as it and the manifold are all metal.
Your manifold doesnt need to be welded/sealed up, just slot together. You will actually want to be able to take it apart to clean. When building the manifold I'd also recommend building it so its a nice snug/tight fit in the base. My first attempt did not fill the base of the cooler box so for my first few brews it fell apart and caused some headache. I soon added to it to make it a more snug fit.

I really just winged it by looking at pictures online and using my instinct. Worked out fine, its actually enjoyable building something as opposed to buying a ready made one! : )

Perfect, thanks for this pal. I just mostly wanted to make sure there was no elusive, all-encompassing brew store somewhere in town that I'm missing haha. I think I'm gonna get the Argos one in the next few days and give it a go

RasTa wrote: »

Yeah I've one for sale.

Make us an offer if ye want

Thanks pal, it looks great but I kinda wanna do this one from scratch so I have more of an idea of how to do one in future

xbox gamer

Might be worth thinking about biab. I moved to it for about €40 - insulation and tape €20, bag €12, ikea splash guard €3.50 and stainless steel jubilee clips €4. I have three brews under my belt and i have to sparge to get my pre boil water, but enjoy it so far.

macnug

OMeara camping do good coolers too, I like the look of this one, 5 day cooler so id assume it would be good for mashing.

http://www.omearacamping.com/5-gallon-water-cooler-5-day-cooler-2225-p.asp

Carawaystick

xbox gamer wrote: »

Might be worth thinking about biab. I moved to it for about €40 - insulation and tape €20, bag €12, ikea splash guard €3.50 and stainless steel jubilee clips €4. I have three brews under my belt and i have to sparge to get my pre boil water, but enjoy it so far.

Looks good, have you insulation under the tun/kettle too?


temperature loss of a few degrees isn't too important, you can always draw off some wort and heat up to keep the mash warm, its brewing good beer not developing colour photos

xbox gamer

Carawaystick wrote: »

Looks good, have you insulation under the tun/kettle too?


temperature loss of a few degrees isn't too important, you can always draw off some wort and heat up to keep the mash warm, its brewing good beer not developing colour photos

Ye i have the insulation wrapped around the whole fermenter/boiler 3 times top and bottom.

So far its fun learning the all grain route. Made a mess of the first brew with the strike temperature too low, but we live and learn. And the beer has been drinkable so far :cool:

Hingo

This place has coolers on sale for €20
http://www.mybeerandwine.ie/home/309-picnic-cooler-35-litre.html
You can make your own manifold or buy a bazooka screen for a few quid.

Mine just got delivered but looks decent

I made a mash tun from scratch before using 2 fermenters, some strategically placed holes and lots of bubblewrap foil insulation (looked a bit like the kettle above) but I felt for the time and money I spent on it, I'm better off with the cooler option for long term

macnug

Hingo wrote: »

This place has coolers on sale for €20
http://www.mybeerandwine.ie/home/309-picnic-cooler-35-litre.html
You can make your own manifold or buy a bazooka screen for a few quid.

Mine just got delivered but looks decent

I made a mash tun from scratch before using 2 fermenters, some strategically placed holes and lots of bubblewrap foil insulation (looked a bit like the kettle above) but I felt for the time and money I spent on it, I'm better off with the cooler option for long term

That's a bargain! What other fittings do you need and what size hole etc?

Hingo

macnug wrote: »

That's a bargain! What other fittings do you need and what size hole etc?

a bulkhead fitting and a tap (or ball-valve) and then you can make your own copper manifold with .5 inch pipe and fittings or go down the bazooka screen rout - I went with the latter but the manifold would probably be a better option on the long run

macnug

Hingo wrote: »

a bulkhead fitting and a tap (or ball-valve) and then you can make your own copper manifold with .5 inch pipe and fittings or go down the bazooka screen rout - I went with the latter but the manifold would probably be a better option on the long run

Where did u get your bulkhead fitting hingo? Cant seen to find a stainless one anywhere locally. Ones on ebay are fairly dear.

neoanto

Woodies have the taps you need and the copper pipes to make a manifold.
Just a bit of time and you'll get it together.

macnug

neoanto wrote: »

Woodies have the taps you need and the copper pipes to make a manifold.
Just a bit of time and you'll get it together.

Yea I can get a tap and copper, just cant seem to find a bulkhead fitting. Must try woodies, cheers. Do you know if a plastic bulkhead will do or does it have to be a ss one?

Hingo

macnug wrote: »

Yea I can get a tap and copper, just cant seem to find a bulkhead fitting. Must try woodies, cheers. Do you know if a plastic bulkhead will do or does it have to be a ss one?

I ordered it from My Beer and Wine but got sent the wrong one... Emailed and called about it and got fobbed off and ignored then after so I'm going to homebrew co to get what I need

neoanto

I just got the bits in a local hardware store. Got brass fittings

RasTa

Yeah go local for the fittings and such. Huge markup from the homebrew shops

I got this for example for 6 quid...

https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/316-stainless-steel-2-piece-ball-valve-12-p-2564.html

Hingo

I think it's because they're 316 / 304 Stainless steel that they can lob on a few quid t the price. - if you're happy to wait a few weeks, eBay is a great alternative for these. Otherwise bog standard plumbing fittings - a little bit of Zinc wont kill you :pac:... Certainly helps the yeast

n97 mini

RasTa wrote: »

Yeah go local for the fittings and such. Huge markup from the homebrew shops

I got this for example for 6 quid...

https://www.thehomebrewcompany.ie/316-stainless-steel-2-piece-ball-valve-12-p-2564.html

That's stainless. What you got in your local h/w shop is more than likely nickel plated brass.

macnug

n97 mini wrote: »

That's stainless. What you got in your local h/w shop is more than likely nickel plated brass.

So is brass ok or does it have to be ss? If so where's the best place to buy it?

neoanto

I think brass is fine.
Sure John Palmer has a section on cleaning your brass equipment at the back of this How to Brew book.