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Painting bike

  • 01-04-2015 3:26pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 111 ✭✭


    So,

    I'm re-painting the bike at the minute and all is going well.
    Next thing on the list is the engine block.

    Was told that hand painting it myself with the heat-resistant paints is the best idea, any one out there any other ideas, or tips?


    Thanks in advance!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,465 ✭✭✭✭cantdecide


    I had a look in the garage and I used thiswhen I did my rads on the Mille with great results and it seems to be lasting well (perfectly so far but I haven't been using it much). I've had good results with High temp clear over high temp matt too.

    A lot depends on where on the bike it is and how long you need it to last. That is if this needs to be a permanent restoration of a rare classic or a tidy of the current hack. I believe if it's the former, you're in rattle can heaven and the latter means you need to go with either powder coating or some other professionally applied finish to last the test of time. Please report back how you get on because it's hard to get long term feedback on this kind of thing.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 111 ✭✭Bandit0


    As far as I was told, powder coating is a bad idea.

    Everyone I have spoken to has said go for the heat resistant paint and take it easy.
    I'd say your spot on man, I'll just pull the fairings and spray it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,306 ✭✭✭✭Cienciano


    Bandit0, going repaint my engine too, so sort of hijacking the thread!
    Is your engine still in the bike? Mine will be, I was going to use a brush.
    What about preparation? I was going to use something like hammerite high heat paint, seems to be popular.
    It'll also depend on how much of the engine is visible


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,465 ✭✭✭✭cantdecide


    Cienciano wrote: »
    Is your engine still in the bike? Mine will be

    That's grand. you just have to be prepared to plough tons of time into masking and prepping but you'll get better results the more prep you do.
    Cienciano wrote: »
    I was going to use a brush. I was going to use something like hammerite high heat paint, seems to be popular.

    Nooooooo!!!

    Go for proper high temp automotive high temp aerosol paint. I've seen the aftermath of the brushed on jobs and IME they just go grey and textured matt.
    Cienciano wrote: »
    What about preparation?

    Assuming your bike is an IL4 naked or similar a lot depends on what you have access to. A power washer and/ or airlines for blowing out cack and crud?

    It's just a question of cutting back the old stuff and keying up the surface with something like 280 grit using various implements to get into the visible nooks and crannies. Clean down using pre-paint or a similar chemical.

    Most VHT requires no primer so it's a question of masking absolutely everything off and applying several light coats of paint (and maybe lacquer depending). You'll often have to go through a process of heating the paint to cure but that should be explained on the can.

    This is an example on my old XJR. The picture quality is poor but you can get a sense of how smooth the finish was. I also cut the edge of the fins back and I painted the rocker cover in silver VHT...

    EDIT: in fact, on this bike the engine had had a bad brush on high temp paint that had half flaked off.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,306 ✭✭✭✭Cienciano


    cantdecide wrote: »
    That's grand. you just have to be prepared to plough tons of time into masking and prepping but you'll get better results the more prep you do.



    Nooooooo!!!

    Go for proper high temp automotive high temp aerosol paint. I've seen the aftermath of the brushed on jobs and IME they just go grey and textured matt.



    Assuming your bike is an IL4 naked or similar a lot depends on what you have access to. A power washer and/ or airlines for blowing out cack and crud?

    It's just a question of cutting back the old stuff and keying up the surface with something like 280 grit using various implements to get into the visible nooks and crannies. Clean down using pre-paint or a similar chemical.

    Most VHT requires no primer so it's a question of masking absolutely everything off and applying several light coats of paint (and maybe lacquer depending). You'll often have to go through a process of heating the paint to cure but that should be explained on the can.

    This is an example on my old XJR. The picture quality is poor but you can get a sense of how smooth the finish was. I also cut the edge of the fins back and I painted the rocker cover in silver VHT...

    EDIT: in fact, on this bike the engine had had a bad brush on high temp paint that had half flaked off.


    Cheers, spray is way to go then! Thats grand, masking tape and plenty of coats is the key.
    Bike is a hypermotard, here's both sides.
    Frame is a pain in the arse but belt covers are easily removed and the gold bits are fine.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 111 ✭✭Bandit0


    cantdecide wrote: »
    That's grand. you just have to be prepared to plough tons of time into masking and prepping but you'll get better results the more prep you do.



    Nooooooo!!!

    Go for proper high temp automotive high temp aerosol paint. I've seen the aftermath of the brushed on jobs and IME they just go grey and textured matt.



    Assuming your bike is an IL4 naked or similar a lot depends on what you have access to. A power washer and/ or airlines for blowing out cack and crud?

    It's just a question of cutting back the old stuff and keying up the surface with something like 280 grit using various implements to get into the visible nooks and crannies. Clean down using pre-paint or a similar chemical.

    Most VHT requires no primer so it's a question of masking absolutely everything off and applying several light coats of paint (and maybe lacquer depending). You'll often have to go through a process of heating the paint to cure but that should be explained on the can.

    This is an example on my old XJR. The picture quality is poor but you can get a sense of how smooth the finish was. I also cut the edge of the fins back and I painted the rocker cover in silver VHT...

    EDIT: in fact, on this bike the engine had had a bad brush on high temp paint that had half flaked off.



    Great bit of info, thanks a mil man.

    Engine is still in mine too, but I don't mind the prep work.
    Tbh, it makes it less likely you spray into the wrong places!

    Did you use a different paint of the plastic covers it was it the one type doing them all okay?

    Also, any brands in particular you used?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,597 ✭✭✭Richard tea


    Good info and advice lads. Im gona give the engine a lick of paint next winter.

    Ive watched some youtube videos on fork polishing. When the manufactures clear coat is worn off and you have sanded using different grit paper followed by polishing the forks, Should you spray with a clear coat again? im thinking the forks will looks good for a few weeks but since the clear coat is gone would the forks not weather quickly?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    You have to multiple clear coat or the forks will look shíte in no time.
    Personally if they aren't polished just painted then its easier to refinish with alloy wheel paint.
    If there is any corrosion then use a green or brown scotchbrite pad and clean it back to bare metal then use some etch primer and topcoat then clearcoat.
    Refinishing any kind of alloy takes a fair bit of effort.


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