Machinery Photo/Discussion Thread

whelan2

Odelay wrote: »

Can’t believe they are using Roman numerals on these things?

The tractor is 19 years old. Assume they don't use them anymore

whelan2

What does KAM stand for?

hopeso

whelan2 wrote: »

What does KAM stand for?

Keep Alive Memory

hopeso

Odelay wrote: »

Can’t believe they are using Roman numerals on these things?

It must be the Fiat influence.......

maidhc

whelan2 wrote: »

The tractor is 19 years old. Assume they don't use them anymore

The tractor is old but it does not date back to the Julius Caesar...

My TS115 is the same from memory, its just a sensible way to identify the relays. Curiously it's the only part of the tractor on which I was able to find a Ford logo!

whelan2

hopeso wrote: »

Brake light fuse seems to be marked G, in the bottom right of your pic....

Think that's a relay. Going to check now

whelan2

We calibrated the control unit and 4wd went off. Now it wont come back on, any ideas please

hopeso

That's strange, as most problems seem to result in the 4wd being stuck on.... Is the switch working alright? Otherwise, try calibrating again, in case something went wrong...

whelan2

It's a unit. 4wd and diff on same box. Oh reckons rain got in during monsoon we had about 10 days ago

White Clover

whelan2 wrote: »

It's a unit. 4wd and diff on same box. Oh reckons rain got in during monsoon we had about 10 days ago

Could be worse. There's a crowd in England,
dk electronics that'd repair it.
They'd probably recommend a back window too, kept shut

whelan2

White Clover wrote: »

Could be worse. There's a crowd in England,
dk electronics that'd repair it.
They'd probably recommend a back window too, kept shut

The NH dealer said they send the unit to France. We gave up replacing the back window.

9935452

whelan2 wrote: »

The NH dealer said they send the unit to France. We gave up replacing the back window.

Are ye leaving the window open?
Lad i work for had a 8360 and a tm155,

Has put up 20k hours between the 2 and never broke a window

wrangler

9935452 wrote: »

Are ye leaving the window open?
Lad i work for had a 8360 and a tm155,

Has put up 20k hours between the 2 and never broke a window

I can't understand it either....... With that I'll probably break mine tomorrow.

whelan2

Slurry pump is the main culprit. 390 was really bad for it too. Have never broken the back window in the case here and have it about 18 years.

mengele

whelan2 wrote: »

Slurry pump is the main culprit. 390 was really bad for it too. Have never broken the back window in the case here and have it about 18 years.

Keep the window clean and you shouldn't really need to open the back window much. Actually buy a new window and take off the struts that way no one will be able to keep it open.

emaherx

whelan2 wrote: »

Slurry pump is the main culprit.

It's usually the nut behind the lift lever that causes that.

whelan2

emaherx wrote: »

It's usually the nut behind the lift lever that causes that.

Yup , I only broke the 390 window once never broke the tm125 window. It's the hinges and nuts and bolts on the tm125 window that's the main problem. The crowd that were replacing it said its common on those tractors.

whelan2

Sent the panel off to be fixed. Oh went to spread fertiliser this morning and the PTO wont work.

_blaaz

whelan2 wrote: »

Yup , I only broke the 390 window once never broke the tm125 window. It's the hinges and nuts and bolts on the tm125 window that's the main problem. The crowd that were replacing it said its common on those tractors.

These hinges/nuts bolts etc are relatively cheap.....make sure rubbers go on right way otherwise it can cause shattering

White Clover

whelan2 wrote: »

Sent the panel off to be fixed. Oh went to spread fertiliser this morning and the PTO wont work.

The dampness will play havoc with any electrics in the tractor. Does the tractor live inside or outside by night and when not in use?

whelan2

White Clover wrote: »

The dampness will play havoc with any electrics in the tractor. Does the tractor live inside or outside by night and when not in use?

Inside all winter with feeder on it. We think the panel being gone means the PTO wont work. It worked the other day with the panel still in.

MeTheMan

Just thinking. Would perspex be a better option then no window? Could be bent/moulded to shape with a heat gun and wouldn't shatter as quick. It wouldn't be very see through after awhile but would keep it dry?

mengele

How much is a back window roughly for the tm?

Muckit

mengele wrote: »

How much is a back window roughly for the tm?

Nothing if use your insurance. Most have glass replacement without affecting NCB.

Reggie.

Shes up and running

Muckit

Fair play Reggie. Looking the absolute biz! Love your attention to detail - the colour coding and the black end caps. Top job

cute geoge

Reggie. wrote: »

Shes up and running

What advantage is the guttler seed box over the last one you had .I presume both place the seed on top of the ground after the power harrow

Reggie.

cute geoge wrote: »

What advantage is the guttler seed box over the last one you had .I presume both place the seed on top of the ground after the power harrow

Still have the APV. Was just told that the APV doesn't like the vibrations of the powerharrow too much as too many electronics. The guttler is all mechanical

funkey_monkey

What's the cable for that's going over the cab at the rear right hand side beside the ploughing lamps?

Reggie.

funkey_monkey wrote: »

What's the cable for that's going over the cab at the rear right hand side beside the ploughing lamps?

Cable from the topcon receiver on the roof

ganmo

Reggie. wrote: »

Cable from the topcon receiver on the roof

What's next on the wishlist?

Reggie.

ganmo wrote: »

What's next on the wishlist?

Have to get dribble bars now

Never wrestle with pigs

Gawddawggonnit wrote: »

If I was looking for a valtra 8050 or 8150 dawg over your way, where would the best place be to look ? Thanks

Gawddawggonnit

Never wrestle with pigs wrote: »

If I was looking for a valtra 8050 or 8150 dawg over your way, where would the best place be to look ? Thanks

Agriaffaires.com. French version.
Leboncoin is excellent for older stuff.

funkey_monkey

Is there a way to reverse the pull cord on a small engine pump?
I recently bought one but the setup of it is all wrong for my needs - with it setup in orientation I need for the pump, the pull cord pulls into a wall. I need to have it reversed so I can pull it outwards into the free space.

Any ideas? I've thought about putting a pulley on the pump and reversing the direction around it, but I'm not sure how easy it would be to pull with this in place. Can the faceplate containing the pull mechanism be replaced with something that counter rotates?

mayota

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Is there a way to reverse the pull cord on a small engine pump?
I recently bought one but the setup of it is all wrong for my needs - with it setup in orientation I need for the pump, the pull cord pulls into a wall. I need to have it reversed so I can pull it outwards into the free space.

Any ideas? I've thought about putting a pulley on the pump and reversing the direction around it, but I'm not sure how easy it would be to pull with this in place. Can the faceplate containing the pull mechanism be replaced with something that counter rotates?

Is it a Honda gx? If so you should be able to bolt off and rotate the pull cord assembly. https://images.app.goo.gl/Aj1Y3htsAejHkBFCA

funkey_monkey

No - it is like this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B003TNTQUA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

funkey_monkey

mayota wrote: »

Is it a Honda gx? If so you should be able to bolt off and rotate the pull cord assembly. https://images.app.goo.gl/Aj1Y3htsAejHkBFCA

Ah - I think I know what you mean now.


I'll take a look later to see if the holes align to allow rotation.

mayota

funkey_monkey wrote: »

Ah - I think I know what you mean now.


I'll take a look later to see if the holes align to allow rotation.

Ya. It might even work to pull straight up.

tractorporn

Looking for a bit of advice from the tillage boardsies.

I grow a small area of oats every year and with the way things are looking I'm thinking of expanding the area sown. Up until now I have just gotten the contractor to come and do all the work.

But with the increase in area I'm thinking about buying some second hand tillage gear and taking back some of the work myself. I was thing about maybe a harrow and a Massey seed drill.

Is this a feasible option or am I wasting my time? I would probably leave the contractor the ploughing for the time being.

queueeye

tractorporn wrote: »

Looking for a bit of advice from the tillage boardsies.

I grow a small area of oats every year and with the way things are looking I'm thinking of expanding the area sown. Up until now I have just gotten the contractor to come and do all the work.

But with the increase in area I'm thinking about buying some second hand tillage gear and taking back some of the work myself. I was thing about maybe a harrow and a Massey seed drill.

Is this a feasible option or am I wasting my time? I would probably leave the contractor the ploughing for the time being.

How many acres are you planning to sow?What type of tractor do you have at the moment? If it’s good enough to harrow then it’ll be good enough to plough. No need to go spending crazy money initially on gear, there’s loads of relatively cheap stuff on DoneDeal etc. Makes perfect sense to so as much work as you can yourself if you’ve got the time.

Gawddawggonnit

tractorporn wrote: »

Looking for a bit of advice from the tillage boardsies.

I grow a small area of oats every year and with the way things are looking I'm thinking of expanding the area sown. Up until now I have just gotten the contractor to come and do all the work.

But with the increase in area I'm thinking about buying some second hand tillage gear and taking back some of the work myself. I was thing about maybe a harrow and a Massey seed drill.

Is this a feasible option or am I wasting my time? I would probably leave the contractor the ploughing for the time being.

Is it just oats you’re thinking on planting?
If so you’d get away with the simplest of simple systems, crude even.
Oats will grow anywhere and will establish where the likes of barley wouldn’t.
In your situation I’d stay away from the plough because you’re making weed control more difficult in the long run. Direct drill. The MF30 kitted out with disc coulters would be grand. Keep tilling the ground to be planted to eliminate weeds and drill when it suits you....or if you’ll be using cover crops, roll the cover crops before planting (in the exact same direction that you’ll be drilling) and drill direct with the MF30. Simples.

If you’re thinking on continuous oats it would be very important not to have any machinery other than your own on the land. Oat mosaic virus is spread by machinery etc and ruins the land from ever growing oats.
Oat mosaic is quite common in the oat growing hinterland of Flahavans.

GrasstoMilk

Diesel bowser belonging to a local tillage farmer

Gawddawggonnit

GrasstoMilk wrote: »

Diesel bowser belonging to a local tillage farmer

Is it bunded or double skinned?

If not €5k fine right there!

GrasstoMilk

Gawddawggonnit wrote: »

Is it bunded or double skinned?

If not €5k fine right there!

Oh I would say so. Them.guys do everything right.
Made by broughan

Say my name

GrasstoMilk wrote: »

Diesel bowser belonging to a local tillage farmer

I thought that was a water tank.
I was told they had a water tank on standby when cutting the oilseed rape.

tractorporn

queueeye wrote: »

How many acres are you planning to sow?What type of tractor do you have at the moment? If it’s good enough to harrow then it’ll be good enough to plough. No need to go spending crazy money initially on gear, there’s loads of relatively cheap stuff on DoneDeal etc. Makes perfect sense to so as much work as you can yourself if you’ve got the time.

Gawddawggonnit wrote: »

Is it just oats you’re thinking on planting?
If so you’d get away with the simplest of simple systems, crude even.
Oats will grow anywhere and will establish where the likes of barley wouldn’t.
In your situation I’d stay away from the plough because you’re making weed control more difficult in the long run. Direct drill. The MF30 kitted out with disc coulters would be grand. Keep tilling the ground to be planted to eliminate weeds and drill when it suits you....or if you’ll be using cover crops, roll the cover crops before planting (in the exact same direction that you’ll be drilling) and drill direct with the MF30. Simples.

If you’re thinking on continuous oats it would be very important not to have any machinery other than your own on the land. Oat mosaic virus is spread by machinery etc and ruins the land from ever growing oats.
Oat mosaic is quite common in the oat growing hinterland of Flahavans.

Hoping to push to a rotation size of around 80 acres, that would be split roughly into one third red clover and two thirds cereals. I am thinking of a 6 year rotation of 2 yrs clover 3 years oats and a final year of combi crop under sown back to red clover? All of this would be in organic production.

Currently we have a 95hp tractor but hoping to change in the new year to 130hp if finances allow. I was hoping to get a combination harrow rather than a power harrow second hand the thinking would be that there are less moving parts to go wrong and a decent Massey 30 drill. I have a flat roller which will do for now and a plough would be last on the list once we got up and running properly.

Any of the above sound batsh1t crazy to you lads?

GrasstoMilk

Say my name wrote: »

I thought that was a water tank.
I was told they had a water tank on standby when cutting the oilseed rape.

I wouldn't say so, they could get a slurry tanker to do that.

Grueller

GrasstoMilk wrote: »

Diesel bowser belonging to a local tillage farmer

Does that man do sp silage as well?

Odelay

GrasstoMilk wrote: »

Diesel bowser belonging to a local tillage farmer

Be better off to get it delivered to the machines than be fluting around with that thing and wondering when it’s going to be nicked.