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Struggling with drop down bars.

  • 21-04-2015 8:40am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭


    Picked up my first road bike yesterday. Usually I'm very confident cycling around Dublin city center on my old hybrid but with the new drop down bars I'm feeling very exposed due to inability to brake properly. Holding the hoods seems most comfortable but I can't pull the brakes properly. I find myself panicking in situations I would usually not even bat an eyelid.

    Any advice?


«1

Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,575 ✭✭✭ZiabR


    But riding on the drops is the easiest way to use the brakes on a road bike? You have the most control on the drops. You can pull the brakes on the hoods but you don't have the same control over the brake levers as you do on the drops. Well that is my opinion anyway.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,774 ✭✭✭cython


    Can't offer too much, but from experience I would personally recommend you be on the hoods or the tops of the bars if cycling in the city centre and around traffic, as you get better visibility, both from range of motion of your head, as well as your slightly elevated perspective. Admittedly you do get less leverage over the brakes from the hoods vs from the drops, but you would hope that the improved observation might reduce your necessity to brake hard (though it will never eliminate it). When you say you "can't pull the brakes properly", what is the issue you have with them - is it a question of reach, or simply leverage/braking power like I mentioned above? If the former, you may be able to adjust the reach to the levers (depending on the make/model, which you haven't provided yet), but if the latter then it's less straightforward.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,178 ✭✭✭carltonleon


    Very simple solution is to get auxilary levers on on your handlebars. I have them on my bike and I find them brilliant for when I am in serious traffic.
    Basically it runs off the same cable but the levers are placed about 4/5 cms either side side of your stem. I do tend to use my normal brakes as i am on the hoods more often than not now but the auxys are brilliant for traffic.


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    Thanks for the responses. On the drops I can pull the breaks, bu it requires huge effort and is very uncomfortable on my hands and wrists. And even at that it's not proper breaking as much as slowing down. I feel very unsafe to be honest. Seems insane the difference in difficulty using horizontal bar style breaks and the drop downs.
    Very simple solution is to get auxilary levers on on your handlebars. I have them on my bike and I find them brilliant for when I am in serious traffic.
    Basically it runs off the same cable but the levers are placed about 4/5 cms either side side of your stem.

    They sound like a good idea, I might have to consider them. Thanks for the pointer.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,011 ✭✭✭ht9zni1gs28crp


    It will become easier with time and practice....


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  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    Very simple solution is to get auxilary levers on on your handlebars. I have them on my bike and I find them brilliant for when I am in serious traffic.
    Basically it runs off the same cable but the levers are placed about 4/5 cms either side side of your stem. I do tend to use my normal brakes as i am on the hoods more often than not now but the auxys are brilliant for traffic.

    Thanks for the response. Would you recommend any particular shop in town to install such a set up? Don't suppose you know how much it might cost?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,359 ✭✭✭jon1981


    Does the bike fit you? I can firmly grip my brakes and apply full force if needed when in the dropped position. Are you over stretching to reach the brakes when dropped or is it a relaxed position for you?

    Also you do have to build up strength in the hands, when i start riding with my hands on the hoods I used to get pain between my thumb and finger as my hands weren't used to trying to apply force to breakes in that position so over time i guess I built up wrist and hand strength as it no longer hurts.


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    jon1981 wrote: »
    Does the bike fit you? I can firmly grip my brakes and apply full force if needed when in the dropped position. Are you over stretching to reach the brakes when dropped or is it a relaxed position for you?

    Pretty confident it's a good flitting bike, I'm only 5 foot 7 and the frame is a 51cm. Maybe it's just a case of getting used to the new positioning.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 892 ✭✭✭Just a little Samba


    Do you have small hands? What model levers are you using? It might be possible to adjust them to make it easier to pull them.


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    Do you have small hands? What model levers are you using? It might be possible to adjust them to make it easier to pull them.

    Heh, yea I probably do have wee hands. Thought that might be a factor. Not sure they're adjustable. It's a Carrera Virtuoso so I'd say the specs are very basic so wouldn't imagine a huge amount of modification is possible.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,124 ✭✭✭daragh_


    I would spend most of my time riding with my hands on the hoods, using the drops for descending and sprinting. Would rarely be in the drops in traffic.

    I imagine some of this is bike size and set up. Different strokes for different folks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,359 ✭✭✭jon1981


    They could be stiff to pull, however if you can't pull them in the dropped position , i highly doubt you could pull them at all when on the hoods as you're using less of your hand. I'd say this is just hand conditioning, you probably need to build up hand strength as you're not used to these road bike positions.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,816 ✭✭✭Tigerandahalf


    I have the same issue with carrera tdf. I find in the hoods my fingers can't reach down to fully grasp the brakes and I have to pull towards the top of the lever. You get used to it. However I would find it a lot safer braking on a hybrid. Even in the drops it is a stretch.


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    I have the same issue with carrera tdf. I find in the hoods my fingers can't reach down to fully grasp the brakes and I have to pull towards the top of the lever. You get used to it. However I would find it a lot safer braking on a hybrid. Even in the drops it is a stretch.

    Sounds like exact same concerns as mine. Thanks for your input.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,256 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    might it be to do with how the bars are angled? if they're swung upwards, it would make it harder to reach the brake levers while in the drops, i would expect.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 971 ✭✭✭Senecio


    I think a lot of people have misunderstood the OP. The issue is not in the drops, but when on the hoods there is reduced braking effect.

    OP this is common, you simply don't have as much leverage when on the hoods as you do in the drops. However with time, practise and proper bike fit you will get used to it. I had the same concerns when I bought my first road bike but now I have no issues when braking on the hoods. Less braking power than when in the drops yes, but still plenty strong enough to pull up in all scenarios.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,359 ✭✭✭jon1981


    Senecio wrote: »
    I think a lot of people have misunderstood the OP. The issue is not in the drops, but when on the hoods there is reduced braking effect.

    OP this is common, you simply don't have as much leverage when on the hoods as you do in the drops. However with time, practise and proper bike fit you will get used to it. I had the same concerns when I bought my first road bike but now I have no issues when braking on the hoods. Less braking power than when in the drops yes, but still plenty strong enough to pull up in all scenarios.


    The OP said on the drops...

    On the drops I can pull the breaks, bu it requires huge effort and is very uncomfortable on my hands and wrists. And even at that it's not proper breaking as much as slowing down. I feel very unsafe to be honest. Seems insane the difference in difficulty using horizontal bar style breaks and the drop downs.

    and was advised also
    They could be stiff to pull, however if you can't pull them in the dropped position , i highly doubt you could pull them at all when on the hoods as you're using less of your hand. I'd say this is just hand conditioning, you probably need to build up hand strength as you're not used to these road bike positions.


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    Senecio wrote: »
    I think a lot of people have misunderstood the OP. The issue is not in the drops, but when on the hoods there is reduced braking effect.

    OP this is common, you simply don't have as much leverage when on the hoods as you do in the drops. However with time, practise and proper bike fit you will get used to it. I had the same concerns when I bought my first road bike but now I have no issues when braking on the hoods. Less braking power than when in the drops yes, but still plenty strong enough to pull up in all scenarios.

    Thanks. I''m happy to hear you experienced something similar before. I'll just have to keep at it until it come naturally.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,193 ✭✭✭Fian


    Where are you positioning your hands on the drops - you know you don't need to be right on the end of the bars- you can rest your hands just on the "bend" behind the brake levers and it should be reasonably easy to pull the brakes.

    It is easier to brake from the drops than from the hoods imo.

    Could you post a photo of your handle bars - I wonder are they angled incorrectly or something?

    You have less leverage on the hoods, so it can be more difficult to brake hard there, but if they are properly adjusted it should be fine for traffic - you are not likely to be descending quickly.

    You may need to adjust the tension on the cables so that the brakes engage earlier when pulled, if the brakes don't engage after a slight pull on the levers. They shouldn't bite immediately (to avoid accidentally braking when shifting gears) but nor should you have to pull the lever half way before the brakes engage. Mine bite after about 10 degrees, which I find suits me. You could try turning the barrell adjuster or if necessary pulling the cable tighter through the brake unit.

    Having said all that i use a hybrid rather than my road bike for commuting - you have better visibility and easier braking too I guess.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 971 ✭✭✭Senecio


    jon1981 wrote: »
    The OP said on the drops...

    The original post said that the issue was with breaking when on the hoods.
    Rewind wrote: »
    Holding the hoods seems most comfortable but I can't pull the brakes properly


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,359 ✭✭✭jon1981


    Senecio wrote: »
    The original post said that the issue was with breaking when on the hoods.



    lol don't omit part of the post to suit your argument...
    I'm very confident cycling around Dublin city center on my old hybrid but with the new drop down bars I'm feeling very exposed due to inability to brake properly. Holding the hoods seems most comfortable but I can't pull the brakes properly

    We'll let the Op clarify which is worse :D

    Actually @Rewind, do you ride on the hoods, but keep reaching down to the drop to grab the brake? or do you try brake with your fingers while on the hood?


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    Fian wrote: »
    Where are you positioning your hands on the drops - you know you don't need to be right on the end of the bars- you can rest your hands just on the "bend" behind the brake levers and it should be reasonably easy to pull the brakes.

    It is easier to brake from the drops than from the hoods imo.

    Could you post a photo of your handle bars - I wonder are they angled incorrectly or something?

    You have less leverage on the hoods, so it can be more difficult to brake hard there, but if they are properly adjusted it should be fine for traffic - you are not likely to be descending quickly.

    You may need to adjust the tension on the cables so that the brakes engage earlier when pulled, if the brakes don't engage after a slight pull on the levers. They shouldn't bite immediately (to avoid accidentally braking when shifting gears) but nor should you have to pull the lever half way before the brakes engage. Mine bite after about 10 degrees, which I find suits me. You could try turning the barrell adjuster or if necessary pulling the cable tighter through the brake unit.

    Having said all that i use a hybrid rather than my road bike for commuting - you have better visibility and easier braking too I guess.

    Away from the bike for the day. I'll tinker a bit and see if I can make it any easier but from what I'm reading it seems to be a case of getting used to. It might be a combination of a few things as well i.e. saddle placement etc.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,359 ✭✭✭jon1981


    do you do this?

    O95Rg.jpg

    Or do you move your hand to drop everytime you want to brake ?

    images?q=tbn:ANd9GcR6iFlo6_-6FQJ3TglCriKBTqTaGjbzXJjbbbfnx0Rkn94lU5fyT5EYij74


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    jon1981 wrote: »
    do you do this?

    O95Rg.jpg

    Or do you move your hand to drop everytime you want to brake ?

    Yup, that's the position I feel most comfortable when using the breaks. Problem for me is at that height on the lever it very difficult to excerpt enough pressure for proper breaking IMO.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,359 ✭✭✭jon1981


    Rewind wrote: »
    Yup, that's the position I feel most comfortable when using the breaks. Problem for me is at that height on the lever it very difficult to excerpt enough pressure for proper breaking IMO.

    Might be worth going back to the shop to see if they can take some of the tension out of the brake lever


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    jon1981 wrote: »
    Might be worth going back to the shop to see if they can take some of the tension out of the brake lever

    If it would help than that's something I'll definitely do. Thanks


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 833 ✭✭✭WillyFXP


    My son has the Virtuoso, the brakes levers are shimano and are fairly easy to operate both from the drops and the hoods. First thing I would check is that the wheel braking surface is clean, if its not it doesn't matter how hard you pull, you aint gonna stop. Next I'd check the cables, undo them at the caliper and check they are moving freely from the lever back. I'd also change the pads, the ones that came on the bike are cheap and nasty. It's unlikely messing around with the cable tension will do much, all it will do is increase the lever travel.


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    WillyFXP wrote: »
    First thing I would check is that the wheel braking surface is clean, next I'd change the pads, the ones that came on the bike are probably cheap and nasty. It's unlikely messing around with the cable tension will do much, all it will do is increase the lever travel.

    Cheers Willy, I'll have a look at the wheel and the pads later.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 905 ✭✭✭Uno my Uno.


    Rewind wrote: »
    Yup, that's the position I feel most comfortable when using the breaks. Problem for me is at that height on the lever it very difficult to excerpt enough pressure for proper breaking IMO.

    OP, I have small(ish) hands and had the same problem as you, riding in the hoods was the most comfortable but braking was difficult. After a while my hands and wrists got stronger and breaking was no longer a problem. Don't worry about adapting your bike, focus on increasing your hand strength.


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  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    OP, I have small(ish) hands and had the same problem as you, riding in the hoods was the most comfortable but braking was difficult. After a while my hands and wrists got stronger and breaking was no longer a problem. Don't worry about adapting your bike, focus on increasing your hand strength.

    Think I have some York hand grips at home that might help! Nice one.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,010 ✭✭✭skallywag


    I can't imagine any situation where braking on the drops would be less effective / more difficult than braking on the hoods, unless the bike is either too long or the bars need to be rotated. i.e. how can one not have more of their hand around the levers when on the drops?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 905 ✭✭✭Uno my Uno.


    skallywag wrote: »
    I can't imagine any situation where braking on the drops would be less effective / more difficult than braking on the hoods, unless the bike is either too long or the bars need to be rotated. i.e. how can one not have more of their hand around the levers when on the drops?

    Riding in the Drops is more effective for braking than on the hoods but some of us find riding in the drops very uncomfortable nay impossible.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,010 ✭✭✭skallywag


    Riding in the Drops is more effective for braking than on the hoods but some of us find riding in the drops very uncomfortable nay impossible.

    I get your point completely and I'm also definitely more comfortable when riding on the hoods myself, but it's still the case that I would feel more confident braking when on the drops, albeit if in less overall comfort. If the event of having to brake suddenly etc I would always move to the drops (well assuming there was enough time to make that decision!)


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    skallywag wrote: »
    I can't imagine any situation where braking on the drops would be less effective / more difficult than braking on the hoods, unless the bike is either too long or the bars need to be rotated. i.e. how can one not have more of their hand around the levers when on the drops?

    I'm the same, the drops is by far the most effective for braking. It is however no ideal in a city center environment IMO.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,538 ✭✭✭nak


    I have small hands and would have trouble reaching the brakes on a standard shop bought road bike. This was sorted by buying short reach compact bars (Omega FSAs,Specialized women's road bars etc) and having the levers set in a position I find comfortable. The reach was also shortened a bit on my levers.

    That being said, my issue was more on the drops. Stem length might be another thing to look at? Always ride on the hoods in traffic, drops only really for descending, racing, long straights.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,197 ✭✭✭✭Crash


    jon1981 wrote: »
    Might be worth going back to the shop to see if they can take some of the tension out of the brake lever
    Would definitely advise this - workmate of mine got a new road bike and her brakes were drastically harder to pull than mine from the hoods - she asked them to sort out the tension a bit on it and it was like night and day after.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,816 ✭✭✭Tigerandahalf


    Fian wrote: »
    Where are you positioning your hands on the drops - you know you don't need to be right on the end of the bars- you can rest your hands just on the "bend" behind the brake levers and it should be reasonably easy to pull the brakes.


    This is one of the issues for me. I would have my hands on the flat part of the drop bars as it is most comfortable for your hands. However to break in the drops I then have to shuffle my hands to the bends so I can pull the brake lever.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,359 ✭✭✭jon1981


    This is one of the issues for me. I would have my hands on the flat part of the drop bars as it is most comfortable for your hands. However to break in the drops I then have to shuffle my hands to the bends so I can pull the brake lever.

    That's bit risky if you need to brake urgently, the shuffling of that hands in a panic wouldn't help, creating more instability. Is this due to the bike being too long for you?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,816 ✭✭✭Tigerandahalf


    No it is because leaving my hands in the bends simply isn't comfortable and doesn't take my body weight putting pressure on other areas.
    Here is an interesting article which I came across while googling.
    http://www.bretonbikes.com/generalarticles/drophandlebars.html


  • Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 25,189 Mod ✭✭✭✭CramCycle


    Sounds like the brakes aren't tight enough (close enough to the rim of the wheel when not being pulled). If your brakes are set up properly, the pads will be close enough to the rim that only a slight pull will engage them. You should not be able to pull the lever fully down, even if you engage it fully while in the drops.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,359 ✭✭✭jon1981


    No it is because leaving my hands in the bends simply isn't comfortable and doesn't take my bidy weight putting pressure on other areas.
    Here is an interesting article which I came across while googling.
    http://www.bretonbikes.com/generalarticles/drophandlebars.html

    The only time i go on the drops is when descending a steep hill, pretty much on the hoods 80% of the time.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,816 ✭✭✭Tigerandahalf


    jon1981 wrote: »
    The only time i go on the drops is when descending a steep hill, pretty much on the hoods 80% of the time.

    I would be the same. The only time I always go into the drops is descending a steep hill as I can get my hands fully on the brake levers.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,520 ✭✭✭Alek


    If your brakes are set up properly, the pads will be close enough to the rim that only a slight pull will engage them

    Brake levers are designed to offer best power at roughly at 1/2 travel. If they engage fully at a slight pull, they will not be as effective.


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    No it is because leaving my hands in the bends simply isn't comfortable and doesn't take my body weight putting pressure on other areas.
    Here is an interesting article which I came across while googling.
    http://www.bretonbikes.com/generalarticles/drophandlebars.html

    Nice read, thanks for sharing.


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    CramCycle wrote: »
    Sounds like the brakes aren't tight enough (close enough to the rim of the wheel when not being pulled). If your brakes are set up properly, the pads will be close enough to the rim that only a slight pull will engage them. You should not be able to pull the lever fully down, even if you engage it fully while in the drops.

    Cheers, I have enough basic skills to attempt this myself at least.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 824 ✭✭✭Kinet1c


    Riding in the Drops is more effective for braking than on the hoods but some of us find riding in the drops very uncomfortable nay impossible.

    I'm not that much of a fan for riding in the drops either but I've got big hands so braking is never an issue when riding on the hoods.

    OP, you're only 1 day in, give it more time and see how you fair.


  • Registered Users Posts: 88 ✭✭Rewind


    Kinet1c wrote: »
    OP, you're only 1 day in, give it more time and see how you fair.

    I appreciate that but each minute on the bike in Dublin city center seems like a lot longer! Hopefully within the week I'll be more settled and between now and then I'll just have to be more vigilant in my approach.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 966 ✭✭✭equivariant


    Here is a nice GCN video about hand positions on drop bars.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=28ADO9pC1BY

    As others have said, it should not take too much finger strength to brake from the hoods, so it sounds like that you may need to adjust the brake calipers (loads of youtube videos on this) and/or adjust your hand position. I find that with my thumb hooked around the hoods, I can easily get my first three fingers around the brake lever if I want to apply more pressure - I don't have very big hands.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,193 ✭✭✭Fian


    Rewind wrote: »
    Cheers, I have enough basic skills to attempt this myself at least.

    You probably already know - but just in case. There is a small black lever on the brake calipers which can be toggled to two different positions. One of those positions "opens" the brakes so that the wheel can be changed - otherwise the pads would not fit around an inflated tyre. You might as well just check it is in the closed position and not the open position, unless you have already.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 16,413 ✭✭✭✭Trojan


    There's a few options.
    • Practice as is: you'll eventually get used to it.
    • Lessen the brake tension: it'll be easier to pull, but less braking power.
    • Shims: you can add some shims which move the regular brake lever position. Ask your LBS or google for more info. This is what I'd be looking at first.
    • Change to short reach setup: most expensive. Look for specific short reach levels. You could also try regular at SRAM or Campy levers, both shorter reach than regular Shimano.


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