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Closing a 200mm cavity with ply.

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Comments

  • #52
    ht9zni1gs28crp
    Closed Accounts Posts: 1,011 ✭✭✭ht9zni1gs28crp


    cant believe your going ahead with the ply detail, its hell fire and brimstone for you old chap! :eek:

    Im still waiting on my batch of floating blocks and sky hooks.....:D


  • #53
    rampantbunny
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 907 ✭✭✭rampantbunny


    miller_63, you wrote earlier that you have already been advised by some of the countries top consultants. Was your engineer one of these?

    syd, my previous post in answer to yours might have read a bit off. A lot of us are in the same boat re. the ability/interest of our engineers. At this stage, if my engineer said it was OK to do this or that, I'd nearly have reservations.


  • #54
    hexosan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    Right I think I've come up with a solution to prevent water ingress into to cavity at the reveals causing the marine ply to get damp.
    Pro clima do a product called Contega Solido EXO it's an exterior tape used to make the windows wind tight and protect against driving rain. The tape has a 15mm strip that sticks to the frame (gets plastered over) and the remaining 65mm sticks to the blockwork. Tape can then be plastered over with the reveal.


  • #55
    rampantbunny
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 907 ✭✭✭rampantbunny


    I'm thinking that you have to trim your vertical DPC right back to the edge of the blockwork first?

    Is the product water tight?
    I know products can be airtight, but if wet and you touch them from the back, the water can come through..capillary action or something like that.

    [Edit] Just read a prod sheet and it is resistant to driving rain. Does that cover resistence to moisture ingress in damp conditions over a period of time.
    "Adheres to mineral surfaces but with a note that uneven chem. surfaces should be leveled with a smooth finish (if necessary)."

    The mineral surface that is given as an example is concrete, which would usually be smooth. Block-work would probably fall into the category of having to be smoothed out...but if it sticks to begin with I'm sure the plaster coat over it will keep it in place.


  • #56
    hexosan
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,740 ✭✭✭hexosan


    I spoke with the suppliers and it's not waterproof it's water resistant. Standing water will penetrate but since it's installed vertically standing water isn't an issue.
    You don't have to cut back the dpc I simply taped over it.
    It sticks to blockwork no problem the adhesive like all the pro clima stuff sticks like **** to a blanket.


  • #57
    The_Bullman
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,997 ✭✭✭The_Bullman


    hexosan wrote: »
    Right I think I've come up with a solution to prevent water ingress into to cavity at the reveals causing the marine ply to get damp.
    Was another worry about the ply that it would get damp from the moisture in the cavity?


  • #58
    caddy16
    Registered Users Posts: 720 ✭✭✭caddy16


    893bet wrote: »
    What are the insulated cavity closers you mention?

    The only one I could find was Kingspan and when I handled the product I found them to be flimsy and very expensive. I have 150mm cavity and closed with PIR cut to fit tightly.


    Hi 893bet, I was looking back on old threads and noticed you closed 150mm cavity at openings with PIR. My engineer is recommending the same, did that work out ok for you?

    Did you just apply your airtight tape directly on this after installing windows?


  • #59
    893bet
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,165 ✭✭✭893bet


    caddy16 wrote: »
    Hi 893bet, I was looking back on old threads and noticed you closed 150mm cavity at openings with PIR. My engineer is recommending the same, did that work out ok for you?

    Did you just apply your airtight tape directly on this after installing windows?

    Worked fine for me. I had an L block so there was only 50mm PIR at sides if I recall so could use a wide airtight tape (expensive stuff) and a primer. In order to close sill and top to tape i had to use strip of air tight roll (the ceiling one). Tape one side of the strip to the window (normal cheap tape for smooth surfaces) and then the expensive tape again to tape the strip of roll back to the block. Finished with 12mm board. Only had 150 my cavity. You can’t tape to the PIR just to be clear. Window to block is the only option.

    Seemed to work ok. Hope I explained that right.


  • #60
    caddy16
    Registered Users Posts: 720 ✭✭✭caddy16


    893bet wrote: »
    Worked fine for me. I had an L block so there was only 50mm PIR at sides if I recall so could use a wide airtight tape (expensive stuff) and a primer. In order to close sill and top to tape i had to use strip of air tight roll (the ceiling one). Tape one side of the strip to the window (normal cheap tape for smooth surfaces) and then the expensive tape again to tape the strip of roll back to the block. Finished with 12mm board. Only had 150 my cavity. You can’t tape to the PIR just to be clear. Window to block is the only option.

    Seemed to work ok. Hope I explained that right.

    Makes sense, thanks for that.


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