BB30 - buy all the tools or convert?

BailMeOut

My bike has BB30 and the bearings last no longer than a year and have to take to shop to replace however my closest bike shop does not even have the equipment to do this!

So this morning was looking at just buying the tools so I can do the work myself as process looks quite straightforward but the tools needed are not cheap. So my question is am I better off getting some conversion kit and going with a more reliable BB system?

So buy the tools and do the repairs myself?
or
Convert to a different system? If so what do I convert to?

Thanks!

omri

BailMeOut wrote: »

My bike has BB30 and the bearings last no longer than a year and have to take to shop to replace however my closest bike shop does not even have the equipment to do this!

So this morning was looking at just buying the tools so I can do the work myself as process looks quite straightforward but the tools needed are not cheap. So my question is am I better off getting some conversion kit and going with a more reliable BB system?

So buy the tools and do the repairs myself?
or
Convert to a different system? If so what do I convert to?

Thanks!

95% of my tools are park tool so they come at a price but will last me a lifetime and probably then will last my son same time. So you could spend aprox. €100 for the BBT-30.3 and the press HHP-3 or around €200 if you go with the more expensive one HHP-2 - which I always wanted to have (I have the HHP-3). Or make one yourself.

If you shop around you could get even cheaper prices on these tools or go with less expensive brands. In the end its up to you - with tools you spend a bit to get them but then save each time you do the work yourself rather than go to the bikeshop.

Cee-Jay-Cee

I converted to Shimano using FSA press-fit threaded sleeve.

torydiver

Rose bikes used to sell a good quality BB/headset press at decent price... If wanted, specific bb30 installation / removal bits to use along with the press can be had for a few euros...

torydiver

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

I converted to Shimano using FSA press-fit threaded sleeve.

What's your impression on the adapter sleeve?
Is it a decent job?

niceonetom

I de-BB30'd my frame with the FSA sleeve and it has been perfect ever since.

Press-fit bottom brackets are stupid. BSA FTW.

Brian?

niceonetom wrote: »

I de-BB30'd my frame with the FSA sleeve and it has been perfect ever since.

Press-fit bottom brackets are stupid. BSA FTW.

Why stupid?

FWIW, I have the same BB86 bottom bracket for 2.5 years with zero issues. My mate has the same bb30 for 3 years and no issues. Could the issue be with how the BB is mounted to the frame or the type of bb?

BailMeOut

Brian? wrote: »

Why stupid?

FWIW, I have the same BB86 bottom bracket for 2.5 years with zero issues. My mate has the same bb30 for 3 years and no issues. Could the issue be with how the BB is mounted to the frame or the type of bb?

Was somewhat thinking that if I replaced myself the install might be better than bike shop. I just did not want to spend all that money on the tools if I end up changing the system anyway although I suspect I could sell them handy enough if no longer needed. There a loads of youtubes on how to replace with all sorts of tips.

mossym

rotor also do a bb30 to 24 adapter. used one to convert my cannondale slice so i could use a 24mm power2max on both road bike and tri bike. adapter has been flawless

Cee-Jay-Cee

torydiver wrote: »

What's your impression on the adapter sleeve?
Is it a decent job?

It's been rock solid since it was fitted a few months back. I went with it as I was upgrading the groupset to 6800 and wanted to use the 6800 BB. The sleeve was the only way to do it. There are s few different sleeves available but as my bike had an FSA chainset and FSA BB's I figured the FSA sleeve would be a more accurate fit. One slight change I made when fitting it was I used Loctite 603 which is high strength as opposed to 609 which is recommended and supplied by FSA with the sleeve (and is medium strenght). I basically don't want the sleeve ever to come out and I have absolutely no intention of ever returning to a BB30 chainset so wanted it bonded in there securely. (It's still removable, just needs a bit more work to remove)

mossym wrote: »

rotor also do a bb30 to 24 adapter. used one to convert my cannondale slice so i could use a 24mm power2max on both road bike and tri bike. adapter has been flawless

The Rotor adaptor us very expensive for what it is, your paying for the name more than anything else.

nilhg

After doing the WW200 today with a severely creaking BB on my new crash replacement Felt I'm going to have to do something, I had a fair idea when I built it up that I might have this problem but decided to suck it and see, it has a FSA BB30 with FSA adaptors that come with the frame as standard to step it down to take 24mm hollowtech cranks.

My alternatives now are to replace the FSA adaptors with these,

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/wheels-manufacturing/bb30-to-24mm-crank-spindle-shims-ec022793

which would allow me to keep the ceramic FSA bearings, my understanding is that this "should" work, at least better than the FSA ones, which don't have a great reputation.

Other than that I could fit one of these

http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb30-outboard/bb30-outboard-bottom-brackets.html

reports are good, but more expensive.

Ideally I'd fit a Praxis, but won't fit into my Felt with a carbon BB30 shell

http://www.praxiscycles.com/conversion-bb/

Cee-Jay-Cee

nilhg wrote: »

After doing the WW200 today with a severely creaking BB on my new crash replacement Felt I'm going to have to do something, I had a fair idea when I built it up that I might have this problem but decided to suck it and see, it has a FSA BB30 with FSA adaptors that come with the frame as standard to step it down to take 24mm hollowtech cranks.

My alternatives now are to replace the FSA adaptors with these,

http://www.evanscycles.com/products/wheels-manufacturing/bb30-to-24mm-crank-spindle-shims-ec022793

which would allow me to keep the ceramic FSA bearings, my understanding is that this "should" work, at least better than the FSA ones, which don't have a great reputation.

Other than that I could fit one of these

http://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb30-outboard/bb30-outboard-bottom-brackets.html

reports are good, but more expensive.

Ideally I'd fit a Praxis, but won't fit into my Felt with a carbon BB30 shell

http://www.praxiscycles.com/conversion-bb/

I'm Assuming you have an F1 or Z1? When I was researching conversions, I came across your problem. It appears the only viable solution for the carbon BB shell on Felts is the Wheels Manufacturing adapters. Your frame must be pre 2015 as felt reverted to an alloy shell housing for the current F1/Z1 model.

nilhg

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

I'm Assuming you have an F1 or Z1? When I was researching conversions, I came across your problem. It appears the only viable solution for the carbon BB shell on Felts is the Wheels Manufacturing adapters. Your frame must be pre 2015 as felt reverted to an alloy shell housing for the current F1/Z1 model.

Yeah, mine is the 2013 F1, I think the FRD is the new F1, just ordered a Wheels Manufacturing Outboard BB so will see how that goes when it arrives.

Seweryn

Brian? wrote: »

Why stupid?

FWIW, I have the same BB86 bottom bracket for 2.5 years with zero issues. My mate has the same bb30 for 3 years and no issues. Could the issue be with how the BB is mounted to the frame or the type of bb?

The question is in what conditions the bike is being used and how the bearings (and shell) are sealed against water ingress. This is everything. I have a box of worn out BB30 bearings from my bike.

mossym

Cee-Jay-Cee wrote: »

The Rotor adaptor us very expensive for what it is, your paying for the name more than anything else.

were you looking at the steel or ceramic version?

youtheman

I have the BB30 in my carbon frame and I've changed the bearings several time with no 'special' tools. When you tap out the crank you normally find that one bearing comes out of the shell (on the drive side). Then I had to be inventive and use whatever tool I could get my hands on to try get the other one out. I eventually 'bit the bullet' and bought this type of tool : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cannondale-Tool-for-Removal-of-System-Integrated-SI-BB30-Bottom-Bracket-Bearings-/301168329047 . Not as good as the Park tools, but a fraction of the price.

To put the bearings back in I just tap them in with the flat piece of bar, and the final re-seating is just done my tightening the hex head bolt.

Brian?

Seweryn wrote: »

The question is in what conditions the bike is being used and how the bearings (and shell) are sealed against water ingress. This is everything. I have a box of worn out BB30 bearings from my bike.

Tell me more of this?

Seweryn

Brian? wrote: »

Tell me more of this?

Based on my own experience with the BB30 press fit bearing system, here are a few main things:

- When installing the bearings it is important to have them perfectly aligned in the shell. Otherwise they wear out faster. You can make your own tool (I posted a picture of the tool I made some time ago).

- The main factor damaging the bearings is the water ingress through the seals. The water gets there from outside of the frame or from the inside, as it happens with my bike. After a particularly wet ride, the water gets in and stays inside the bottom bracket shell. That is why the bearings finally fail and need to be replaced.

- The quality of bearings play important role in durability. It is how well they are sealed is how long they last. The standard FSA or Sram bearings that bike shops sell are of the lowest quality and are waste of time in my opinion. They were lasting a couple of months in my bike at most. I then got some top quality bearings and have been very happy with them, as they last 6 to 12 months easily, which is OK considering the mileage and riding conditions.

- Some frames (like the one I have) let the water get in and stay inside easier. The bottom bracket shell in my frame has holes drilled through where the tubes meet, so the water is basically "collected" from all tubes in and stays there in the BB shell. This in result shortens the life of the bearings obviously.

- All in all, if you install the bearings correctly and ride your bike in optimistic type of weather, they will last very long time. A poor quality set of bearings will be gone quite quickly if you ride a lot in wet conditions.

eeeee

What bearings would you recommend Seweryn?

BailMeOut

I have read that the use of marine grease really helps to keep away any water.

Seweryn

gadetra wrote: »

What bearings would you recommend Seweryn?

The most durable I have tested are the Japanese bearings made by NTN. Part reference number: 6806-2RS LLU. The "LU" is their own symbol that defines type of seals. These are the highest grade contact seals for better grease contamination control and protection against elements.

The other bearings I would recommend are half as good, made by FAG, symbol 61806-2RSR-HLC.

BailMeOut

Seweryn wrote: »

The most durable I have tested are the Japanese bearings made by NTN. Part reference number: 6806-2RS LLU. The "LU" is their own symbol that defines type of seals. These are the highest grade contact seals for better grease contamination control and protection against elements.

The other bearings I would recommend are half as good, made by FAG, symbol 61806-2RSR-HLC.

interesting. I assumed that the bearings were specifically made for bikes so they can actually be sourced from anywhere for a lot less money.

Seweryn - so these ones on ebay for $4.29 each would work? see http://r.ebay.com/SFaH1c

Seweryn

BailMeOut wrote: »

interesting. I assumed that the bearings were specifically made for bikes so they can actually be sourced from anywhere for a lot less money.

Bearings are not made for bikes specifically, they have been in existence for a lot longer . Bearings are standardised with sizes and design applications across the industry.

BailMeOut wrote: »

Seweryn - so these ones on ebay for $4.29 each would work? see http://r.ebay.com/SFaH1c

Yes, they would.
You can't judge the quality of them, but I guess they may not be much better that the FSA or Sram "branded" bearings than you get for €20,- in a bike shop. Still, better value.

Unless you are looking for a specific make, I would source the bearings locally.

BailMeOut

Seweryn wrote: »

I would source the bearings locally.

any recomendations on where to get in Ireland?

Seweryn

BailMeOut wrote: »

any recomendations on where to get in Ireland?

Your local engineering / farm & machinery shop should sort you out .