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Remove SMD voltage regulator

  • 27-06-2015 1:53pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭


    I'm trying to remove an SMD voltage regulator but not having any luck using my soldering iron.

    As you can see from the photo, there are several components in close proximity, so I'm afraid I'll damage them if I apply too much heat.

    Can anyone offer some advice as to the best way to remove it and fit a replacement? I assume it's been fitted originally using paste and a hot air, which I don't have. Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,320 ✭✭✭Chet T16


    IC502?

    Snip the legs off, apply loads of heat (with some solder) to the tab until you can remove it. Then remove the legs.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    Chet T16 wrote: »
    IC502?

    Snip the legs off, apply loads of heat (with some solder) to the tab until you can remove it. Then remove the legs.

    BA00AS.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,320 ✭✭✭Chet T16


    Yeah, designated as above. You should get it off easily enough.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Flathead terminal driver under the tab levering up while you heat the bejaysus outtov the tab with some fresh solder. Once it budges bend it upright then run the tip of the iron sideway to desolder the legs. Probably need at least a 50W iron for that.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 23 djohnsongmx


    I've done a few of these before... i.e. SMDs on small circuit boards with a lot of components around... I dont have professional rework station or anything either..

    If it was me I would:
    1. Apply a bit of fresh solder on the pins of the voltage regulator. This helps the rest of the solder to melt. I'd drag the solder across each of the sets of the two pins on the front.
    2. Then apply the soldering iron to each of the two sets of pins, and then the tab, all the time GENTLY prying the pins up with a tweezers. Be careful not to pry too hard, cos if the solder is not melted fully while you are prying, then you could pull up a whole section of the board / tracks. And then there is no way back. :-(
    3. Might not be any harm to temporarily remove that electrolytic cap to give you a bit of space.. See if it's easy to desolder and just make sure you put it back in the right way.

    It would be very difficult to work with a heat gun, given that there are very small SMD components (which could easily fall off) beside the legs of the voltage regulator. So keep the heat gun in your holster for this job..


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,673 ✭✭✭kkelly77


    ........ Be careful not to pry too hard, cos if the solder is not melted fully while you are prying, then you could pull up a whole section of the board / tracks. And then there is no way back. :-(.............

    Too late :rolleyes:

    I was able to remove the heatsink end by using hot solder, as per advice. However, I tried to (gently) snip the legs but ended up pulling the solder pads up as well as part of the tracks on the PCB.

    I was able to solder in the new part but I knew the damage to the tracks would be the end of the board. And it was. C'est la vie.

    Thanks for the help and advice all.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 23 djohnsongmx


    kkelly77 wrote: »
    I was able to remove the heatsink end by using hot solder, as per advice. However, I tried to (gently) snip the legs but ended up pulling the solder pads up as well as part of the tracks on the PCB.

    yep. And that's exactly how I learned not to pry it up too hard!
    Oh well, you'll know for the next time.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I wouldn't give up yet. Cut the broken track(s) down to a solder tab and stick in a few bodge wires.


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