Nissan Leaf

Soarer

Calahonda52 wrote: »

Is the heater basically an electric kettle heating water, [ as opposed to the heat pump in the newer models] so may take time to warm up

I genuinely don't know if you're asking me or telling me. But thanks.

Mope

Calahonda52 wrote: »

Is the heater basically an electric kettle heating water, [ as opposed to the heat pump in the newer models] so may take time to warm up

Is that common to all EVs? Is it heating water or some other element like let's say in hair dryers?

Soarer

Mope wrote: »

The whole issue with having LED or Xenon lights on a non-LED/Xenon light compatible headlamp is light dispersion. For example I had an objective myself that my new or next car HAS to have either of them simply because night driving with LED and Xenon lights is just difference between night and day!

It will definitely be brighter for the driver versus standard halogen bulbs, however problem is that if not compatible headlamp is used the light from LED or/and Xenon is not focused (no clear cut lane where light is going). LED and Xenon lights need a specific lens so it gather the light source and shoots it at the road. If this not the case everyone in the traffic will be somewhat blinded by owner of these Aftermarket lights. Not the same effect as being blinded by Long Beam, but similar and potentially more annoying.

To know if your headlamp is compatible, at least on some cars if not all, there is a specific marking on it. I think there has to be an E letter or something like this. In Lithuania Police are able to stop anyone and fine on spot or worse if they see non-stardard Xenons or LEDs.

Bulb discussion is sooo last week!

Just to clarify, my headlights are LED, so there's not an issue with them. I changed the high beams, so they're not an issue for oncoming traffic anyway.

zilog_jones

Calahonda52 wrote: »

Is the heater basically an electric kettle heating water, [ as opposed to the heat pump in the newer models] so may take time to warm up

It's heating air, not a body of cold water - it's more like an electric fan heater than anything else, and they don't take that long to heat up. In fact, don't the Leafs with heat pumps initially use the resistance heater to warm up the cabin as it's faster, or use it when pre-heating or something?

BoatMad

zilog_jones wrote: »

It's heating air, not a body of cold water - it's more like an electric fan heater than anything else, and they don't take that long to heat up. In fact, don't the Leafs with heat pumps initially use the resistance heater to warm up the cabin as it's faster, or use it when pre-heating or something?

The Leaf has a air to liquid reverse cycle heat prump, which also uses this system to provide air con

see leaf heat pump operation http://www.nissan-global.com/EN/TECHNOLOGY/OVERVIEW/heat_pump_cabin_heater.html

A resistive heating element aids in preheating where the heat demands cannot be solely met by the heat pump itself ( this is true of all heat pumps ) .

zilog_jones

Yes, but Soarer's only has resistive heating.

Soarer

Jaysus, I'm none the wiser!

zilog_jones

The heat pump as BoatMad describes was only introduced in (mid?) 2013, and only SV/SVE trims. XE and earlier models only have resistive heating (fan + heating element) which is less efficient.

BoatMad

which is less efficient.

a lot less efficient, so much so , that in the current leafs, aircon/heating effects on range can be practically ignored

TBi

BoatMad wrote: »

a lot less efficient, so much so , that in the current leafs, aircon/heating effects on range can be practically ignored

My i3 has a heat pump. On a cold day it can take 7km off the range. So can't say it can be ignored. Unless the leaf is much more efficient.

The Non heat pump leaf ,if I remember correctly heats water that acts like storage when you're plugged into the mains.

The heat pump will always use the resistive heater regardless of temp to heat up fast along with the heat pump. It always uses the resistive heater to pre heat. The heat pump is only active when the car is on.

Below 3 deg C it consumes a notable amount more energy but imagine no heat pump at all ?

Soarer

Well I turned on the heater this morning, and still nothing.

I can hear something, which I assume is the heating element? Checked under the bonnet and the pipe is plenty warm (if it's the right pipe!). So I can only assume that the heater is working, but the fan isn't blowing.

I checked the only fuse I could find (in the long rectangular relay box), and that's ok.

So is there any way to check the fan?

Mope

I'd say meet with another similar Leaf owner and compare? Maybe you think it should be this or that but in reality it is not?

Soarer

There's definitely something up mope.

I had it on for over 20 minutes this morning while the car was charging, and it didn't even take the chill out of the car! Plus, it doesn't matter if the fan is on 1 or 7. There's no difference in noise.

zilog_jones

Maybe the fan blower resistor pack? It's a fairly common thing to fail in other cars.

grogi

Are the resistors still in use? PWM is not only more robust, it is more efficient as well...

KCross

Soarer wrote: »

There's definitely something up mope.

I had it on for over 20 minutes this morning while the car was charging, and it didn't even take the chill out of the car! Plus, it doesn't matter if the fan is on 1 or 7. There's no difference in noise.

Did you try the solution in the speakEV thread I gave you?
The symptoms are the same, which is no fan running.

BoatMad

grogi wrote: »

Are the resistors still in use? PWM is not only more robust, it is more efficient as well...

PWM ??

BoatMad

Deleted User wrote: »

The Non heat pump leaf ,if I remember correctly heats water that acts like storage when you're plugged into the mains.

The heat pump will always use the resistive heater regardless of temp to heat up fast along with the heat pump. It always uses the resistive heater to pre heat. The heat pump is only active when the car is on.

Below 3 deg C it consumes a notable amount more energy but imagine no heat pump at all ?

I dont think this is the case, the heat pump works anytime the heat /air conn button is active , consistent with the modes and the state of "On" as outlined in the manual

The resistive element is used to boost the response as required by adding energy to the heat exchanger as and when required. Where the heat pump is useful is in the maintenance of cabin conditions.

BoatMad

TBi wrote: »

My i3 has a heat pump. On a cold day it can take 7km off the range. So can't say it can be ignored. Unless the leaf is much more efficient.

once the cabin is up to the climate conditions you set, the typical impact in the Leaf is < 5Km
in the context of 150 km range , thats negligible

grogi

BoatMad wrote: »

PWM ??

Pulse Width Modulation.

BoatMad

grogi wrote: »

Pulse Width Modulation.

yes I know

in the context of resistive heating , its irrespective whether you use PWM or modulate the current in any other manner , the heat produced is the same

I speak as an electronics engineer

zilog_jones

We're talking about the control for the fan blower speed, which could be Soarer's problem as the fan control doesn't seem to function. Pay attention please

grogi

BoatMad wrote: »

yes I know

in the context of resistive heating , its irrespective whether you use PWM or modulate the current in any other manner , the heat produced is the same

I speak as an electronics engineer

Oh, misunderstanding I was referring to the controlling fan speed by a resistor.

BoatMad

zilog_jones wrote: »

We're talking about the control for the fan blower speed, which could be Soarer's problem as the fan control doesn't seem to function. Pay attention please

no as was displayed in the Grogis post, the context was in relation to resistive heating ( in general ) most motors these days would be likely coreless and /or electronically commutated

Soarer

KCross wrote: »

Did you try the solution in the speakEV thread I gave you?
The symptoms are the same, which is no fan running.

Only figured out this morning that the heater is still working, but the fan isn't. I'd hardly get as lucky as the guy in that link, with the problem being a bad connection.
Will have to go digging later if the rain holds off.

BoatMad

BoatMad wrote: »

I dont think this is the case, the heat pump works anytime the heat /air conn button is active , consistent with the modes and the state of "On" as outlined in the manual

The resistive element is used to boost the response as required by adding energy to the heat exchanger as and when required. Where the heat pump is useful is in the maintenance of cabin conditions.

Huh ? Not sure I follow.

revileandy

Hi All,

Can I ask any first gen leaf owners, models at least 5 years old, what sort of range you get today on a full charge? I know this will depend on a number of factors, driving style, battery condition etc. Just trying to get an average.

I'm thinking a first gen leaf could be a good option for my commute, it's an 80km roundtrip mostly 40% M1, 40% M50 and some smaller roads rounding off the trip.

I have two charge points close to my job but I'd like to be able to do the trip in one go.

Any info appreciated.

KCross

revileandy wrote: »

Hi All,

Can I ask any first gen leaf owners, models at least 5 years old, what sort of range you get today on a full charge? I know this will depend on a number of factors, driving style, battery condition etc. Just trying to get an average.

I'm thinking a first gen leaf could be a good option for my commute, it's an 80km roundtrip mostly 40% M1, 40% M50 and some smaller roads rounding off the trip.

I have two charge points close to my job but I'd like to be able to do the trip in one go.

Any info appreciated.

If its an average you want you should look at this thread where lots of people have submitted their battery health and had it graphed and its from the UK so same conditions to here.
https://speakev.com/threads/the-battery-health-thread.18923/

Personally, based on your mainly motorway journey I'd say you will struggle with a 5yr old leaf on that commute unless you are willing to drive slow as most 5yr old Leafs are at 85% capacity or below.

Ideally you need a 30kWh Leaf but thats from 161+ so probably not the price bracket you are after. An alternative is come up to a Gen 1.5 Leaf(132 or later). You should be OK with that one but again you would need to watch the speed on the motorway.

Get a Leaf on loan and try out your commute. Thats the best thing to do.

revileandy

thanks for that, what are the markers on gen 1.5 leaf to distinguish it from the earlier model?