Nissan Leaf

DrPhilG

NIMAN wrote: »

Question, does regen braking in 'B' Mode get stronger as the battery loses power?

I think the regeneration is limited until about 92% or so. You'll get an increasing number of dots available as your battery goes down.

peposhi

NIMAN wrote: »

Question, does regen braking in 'B' Mode get stronger as the battery loses power?

I notice when I drive off first thing in the morning with a full charge, and go down a few hills, the regen is only half on the scale, whereas later in the day its full regen.

I can confirm from own experience that in a 24kWh Leaf the regen in B mode kicks in at and below 97% and in a 30kWh Leaf at and below 94%.

KCross

NIMAN wrote: »

Question, does regen braking in 'B' Mode get stronger as the battery loses power?

I notice when I drive off first thing in the morning with a full charge, and go down a few hills, the regen is only half on the scale, whereas later in the day its full regen.

It shows you in the dash what regen is available to you. You might have missed it.... look at the circles when the car is fully charged.... when its fully charged they will be single circles.... as battery % drops they become double circles and that gives you more regen.

Note, it has nothing to do with B mode.

ewj1978

peposhi wrote: »

I can confirm from own experience that in a 24kWh Leaf the regen in B mode kicks in at and below 97% and in a 30kWh Leaf at and below 94%.

spot on.

basically when the battery is full the car has no where to send the regen so doens't do it until below a certain level.

Caught me out when I first had my leaf. nearly drove straight into the back of someone when i was expecting the car to slow itself.

Batesy

I bought a 2014 secondhand Leaf in November and the SOH was 88%. I checked again this week and it’s gone up to 98%.

What gives?? Anyone see the health of their battery improve to that extent?

Since I bought it I’ve been consistently charging for for 5 hours a day / 5 days a week on a 22kwh charger at work with the odd rapid charge at the weekend.

I've seen U.K taxis with 5000 QCs and 90% health on the 24 Kwh.

The greatest threat would be fast charging multiple times daily to a very high battery temp, this would not be good long term but many short charges a day are fine.

The 24 Kwh Leaf doesn't charge that fast anyway, starting from a very low charge will warm it up faster as it only accepts full charger power for the first 40-45% then power reduces gradually for the rest of the charge.

KCross

Batesy wrote: »

I bought a 2014 secondhand Leaf in November and the SOH was 88%. I checked again this week and it’s gone up to 98%.

What gives?? Anyone see the health of their battery improve to that extent?

Since I bought it I’ve been consistently charging for for 5 hours a day / 5 days a week on a 22kwh charger at work with the odd rapid charge at the weekend.

If the previous owner was only doing short trips everyday the BMS would not have a good understanding of what the low point of the battery would be so it would have to guess a bit.

Maybe you are driving it a lot more and taking the battery down to a lower level so the BMS has reset its view of what the capacity is and hence the SOH went up.

Note, the SOH is a calculation. Its not an exact science or a specific measurement that everybody understands like "how long is a meter". Everyone can measure a meter and get the same result. SOH in a battery is not the same, there is an element of guessing.

It will fluctuate up and down.

The 24 Kwh Leaf shows higher health and higher AH he more it's fast charged and when it sits with little driving and charging it drops maybe 5-7%.

No explanation for this as to the actual data no one knows for sure.

ELM327

Deleted User wrote: »

The 24 Kwh Leaf shows higher health and higher AH he more it's fast charged and when it sits with little driving and charging it drops maybe 5-7%.

No explanation for this as to the actual data no one knows for sure.

The SOH figure is a guess by the BMS so it makes sense if the BMS sees several charge and discharge cycles in quick succession it has a better idea of the true capacity.

Obviously but it doesn't tell why this varies due to faster charging.

Batesy

Now I would have mine charged to 100% by lunchtime then down to around 10% when I plug it back in the following morning at 7:30 5 days a week.

I’d say the theory that the previous owner only went on short trips / less charges is accurate.

Have to say I’m very happy with the readings from Leaf Spy now though.

Batesy

Batesy wrote: »

Now I would have mine charged to 100% by lunchtime then down to around 10% when I plug it back in the following morning at 7:30 5 days a week.

I’d say the theory that the previous owner only went on short trips / less charges is accurate.

Have to say I’m very happy with the readings from Leaf Spy now though.

Yes but be warned if you get leaf spy and don't regularly fast charge the stats will show 5-7% lower. so don't get a fright when you see this.

If you see your first battery bar drop then assume it's not at 98% etc.

NIMAN

Quickie, car not in front of me at present, whats the full wheel size for a Tekna?

Is it 205/45/17?

KCross

215/50/17

NIMAN

Sorry, know if its 91W or 95W?

KCross

NIMAN wrote: »

Sorry, know if its 91W or 95W?

Either will do. Its a personal preference.

NIMAN

Noticed something last night re: timed charging, wonder if anyone could advise if I'm right or not?

I have set the timer on the car to charge to 100%, starting at 11pm once my night rate kicks in.

Last night the car wasn't connected to the charge point, and I went out at 11:10pm and connected it up. It made the beeping noise as usual, and I was expecting it to start charging since it was already past the START CHARGE time.

But nothing. No lights.

Does it only work if you have it connected BEFORE the timer starts?

I was expecting the car to simply think "oh, I should be charging as the timer start time is already past".

goz83

It happens automatically. Sometimes I plug in several hours before or after. Just make sure the correct timer is selected and both clocks in the car are correct.

The charge is often interrupted in my cars if someone has a midnight shower. But I can hear the car start to charge again after.

Soarer

Right, here's one for ye. It'll probably bounce all over the place as I'm typing as I'm thinking, but bear with me.

I suppose the main question is, could the info being displayed to me in the car be wrong?

Start at the beginning.
My display tells me the top two cells in the battery are gone. Fair enough. 2011 car, 165k kms.
When I last ran LeafSpy, I think it said I was close to losing the 3rd cell. Can't remember the exact percentages, but I remember reading it thinking I'd 3% left before I lost the 3rd cell.
I can still charge to 100%, but it's "obviously" 100% of the remaining cells.
All seems normal enough.

But when I use the nissan app, it tells me on the main screen that 12/12 cells are full.
When I look at the text details in the app, it tells me I'm at 12/10 cells full. I didn't write that wrong.
I can drive until the GOM shows --, and the charge blocks (is that what they're called) are gone, but plug (hee hee, but plug!) it into the fast charger, and it'll tell me I'm at 14% capacity.

So what's the story?
The in-car display telling me I'm down on capacity, or the app and fast charger I have more than I'm being told?

Yes there's more in the battery than you're being told. It will hide some Kwh.

I know when I was at something like 7% showed on the dash in the 2015 I actually have about 14-15% on Leaf spy this is why after --- is showing you can continue to drive for a while.

When thebattery gets low you should drive a lot easier and no sudden hitting the throttle because at low voltages the weaker cells will, as they say, "fall off the clidff" first and you will get less range than you thought you had this is one reason say you have 20 % then all of a sudden show 10% and your old battery will be more prone to this and more and more as it ages further. However easing off the throttle will see the cells recover some voltage slowly this is why you should drive easy when you hat about 20%.

But unfortunately in your 2011 you have no battery % display on the dash which isn't helpful.

Are you going to get a new battery when the time comes or just hop into another newer EV ?

Soarer

Deleted User wrote: »

Are you going to get a new battery when the time comes or just hop into another newer EV ?

Definitely a newer ev. Although what and when is another thing.

Original plan was the new Leaf, but don't think so at the minute.
Over the last few months have flirted with the idea(s) of...
Newer UK version of mine.
UK Kia Soul.
New 30kWh.
UK i3 rex.

But decided against all the above for differing reasons. The main being my own yoke suits most of my needs, so it's hard to justify more money. Although it would be nice to not having to watch the GOM so often.

And then, there's the whole thing of, if a new car is gonna cost you around €30k, are you better off going balls out and getting a Tesla from the UK for around £35k? I really don't know a lot about them though.

ELM327

Soarer wrote: »

Definitely a newer ev. Although what and when is another thing.

Original plan was the new Leaf, but don't think so at the minute.
Over the last few months have flirted with the idea(s) of...
Newer UK version of mine.
UK Kia Soul.
New 30kWh.
UK i3 rex.

But decided against all the above for differing reasons. The main being my own yoke suits most of my needs, so it's hard to justify more money. Although it would be nice to not having to watch the GOM so often.

And then, there's the whole thing of, if a new car is gonna cost you around €30k, are you better off going balls out and getting a Tesla from the UK for around £35k? I really don't know a lot about them though.

Yes,
Or waiting and using your existing EV as a stopgap until the RHD model3 is out!

Soarer

ELM327 wrote: »

Yes,
Or waiting and using your existing EV as a stopgap until the RHD model3 is out!

Thinking that alright!

But are they reliable? Story with servicing? etc.

Like I said, know practically nothing about them.

ELM327

Well if you get a model 3 you will have the 8 year warranty.
With model S it's a remainder of the 8 year unlimited miles warranty on most bits that matter (battery/drivetrain).
If you buy CPO you will get an additional (concurrent) 4 year 50k mile bumper to bumper warranty.

Reliability: It's a touchy subject because most Tesla enthusiasts are at Apple like fanboyism. In earlier cars initially they had lots of issues (google replacement drivetrains for model s) but they were sorted from 2014/15 on. Any car still on the road now will have had the replacement done or not been affected.

I am a model 3 reservation holder but I have not yet ruled out getting a model S CPO at the right price. So I guess I'm in the same boat as you. I've already sold my leaf though.

Soarer

ELM327 wrote: »

Well if you get a model 3 you will have the 8 year warranty.
With model S it's a remainder of the 8 year unlimited miles warranty on most bits that matter (battery/drivetrain).
If you buy CPO you will get an additional (concurrent) 4 year 50k mile bumper to bumper warranty.

Reliability: It's a touchy subject because most Tesla enthusiasts are at Apple like fanboyism. In earlier cars initially they had lots of issues (google replacement drivetrains for model s) but they were sorted from 2014/15 on. Any car still on the road now will have had the replacement done or not been affected.

I am a model 3 reservation holder but I have not yet ruled out getting a model S CPO at the right price. So I guess I'm in the same boat as you. I've already sold my leaf though.

Leave this forum immediately!!

I don't know, lots of stories about poor quality with the Model 3.

thierry14

ELM327 wrote: »

Well if you get a model 3 you will have the 8 year warranty.
With model S it's a remainder of the 8 year unlimited miles warranty on most bits that matter (battery/drivetrain).
If you buy CPO you will get an additional (concurrent) 4 year 50k mile bumper to bumper warranty.

Reliability: It's a touchy subject because most Tesla enthusiasts are at Apple like fanboyism. In earlier cars initially they had lots of issues (google replacement drivetrains for model s) but they were sorted from 2014/15 on. Any car still on the road now will have had the replacement done or not been affected.

I am a model 3 reservation holder but I have not yet ruled out getting a model S CPO at the right price. So I guess I'm in the same boat as you. I've already sold my leaf though.

8 year is just the battery and drivetrain as far as I know

Rest of the car is just 4 year/50k miles, pretty crap tbh

Issues popping all over the place too

Will still buy, but not sure I would keep out of warranty

EV entry is expensive all the same

My current diesel I bought for 5k and 10 years still running strong

Going to be a a long time till 60kwh trickles down to used market like that

Cars are just a big bill at the end of the day

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/picked-up-my-model-3-2-hours-later-i-get-a-low-coolant-warning.109414/

ELM327

Model 3 is just out of beta testing. All the cars are a couple of months old and everything will be covered under warranty.

Any of the earlier issues (and there were a lot) with the older S will have been resolved by now. I've seen them at 400-500k miles with no issue. I don't think reliability is an issue.

ELM327

Soarer wrote: »

Leave this forum immediately!!

Can I come back when I get my next EV

Deleted User wrote: »

I don't know, lots of stories about poor quality with the Model 3.

Yeah it was the same at the launch of the S, but within about 24 months it was resolved. I don't think it will be the same this time, it would be a lot shorter as the 3 will be a higher volume seller and a lot of the purchasers won't be tesla fanboys. Also it's a lot easier to tool up from a model S to a model 3 than it was for them going from the roadster to the S.

samih

The current Model S/X owners and Tesla employees have been doing Model 3 beta testing for Tesla which is good plan from Tesla as they'd know for sure how the car is supposed to work and they would have already gotten used to calling Tesla dealers to get issues fixed. Therefore teething problems would not scare them as easily as they would if it was first time EVer buying the early Model 3 cars.

I believe the Model 3 is/will be reliable as lots of the technology is based on earlier models and Tesla has since many years ago learned how to build reliable electric drivetrains for much more powerful RWD cars than Model 3 is. Also reportedly basing the upcoming Semi on multiple Model 3 motors (and maybe other drivetrain bits too) means that the maker is very confident on the reliability of said Model 3 components.