Nissan Leaf

NIMAN

Still down for me.

Gumbo

See other thread. I updated what Nissan said to me n

NIMAN

Seems to be back up and running.....well mine is this morning anyway.

gunnerfitzy

NIMAN wrote: »

Seems to be back up and running.....well mine is this morning anyway.

Working here also.

Soarer

Soarer wrote: »

Morning all!

Latest development.
Left the 12V disconnected overnight and brought it straight down the the motor factors for another test. This morning it read 76% ie. it dropped from 81% to 76% in 15 hours. Don't know if batteries are supposed to do that. Wouldn't have thought so.
Anyways he said I could try a new one for a few days and see if it'd sort things out. Sound out like.
I was under a bit of pressure this morning, so I told him I'd swing back later if things were still mental.
Got home, reconnected the battery, and everything seems ok.
The beeping isn't happening anymore.
I was able to clear all the errors with LeafSpy.

I don't understand V, A, Ah, etc. I know the words, but not the meanings!
Bearing that in mind, a couple of things about the battery I have.
It states 12V 45Ah 390A. I was at 81-76% of this.
I found a pic of an original Leaf battery that a fella was replacing, and it's 12V 50Ah 420A.
He replaced that original battery with a battery 12V 45Ah 400A.
So from my novice point of view, my battery, even if new, would be less "powerful" than those two, and a good bit down on an original Leaf battery?
Consequently, running at 80% of an already "weaker" battery probably isn't good?
Finally, the lugs on the battery are sheethed with "spacers" to fit the terminals. Another not good sign?

Hopefully a bookend to this!

Same thing happened yesterday ie. i-key malfunction error and car wouldn't turn off. Also wouldn't go into Drive.
Had enough at that stage, so borrowed the buddy's car, drove to the motor factors, and got another battery. The new battery was reading 73% at the MF, and he offered to through it on a charger for half an hour. Declined the offer as was in a hurry.
Got back to the car, disconnected the 12V, connected the new one....no difference! Car still wouldn't turn off and error on screen. Needed LeafSpy.
So left the car "running" again, and drove home to get the tablet.
When I got back, the car was after turning itself off!
Turned it on, still not right.
Into LeafSpy, cleared all errors, and the car's been perfect since!
Brought the old battery back to the MF, and it didn't even register on the tester!

So thinking about it, with a weak 12V, it's kinda obvious the car won't turn itself off as it won't be able to turn itself back on without enough power from the 12V. So she'll stay "running" to charge it.

Once again, anyone that has a Leaf and should spend the few euro to get a dongle and LeafSpy Pro.

samih

As you discovered, once a lead acid battery starts to misbehave there is no point spending any effort on it. Just buy another one and be good for years to come. Unless you left the lights on or similar once there is even a small hint of trouble it's time to replace it as it will come back to bite you soon after. And even if you flattened a fresh battery it will most likely still be toast due to sulphadisation and will come to bite you in next few months.

Happened to me twice: Noticed the old ICE suffering from a very slight hint of slower than expected starter one day and no sign of the next day so thought that it will be fine for now. Then one night a week or so later the car just died in the shopping centre car park and I had to drive with other car to jump start it. New battery was put on the next day and ensured years of continuing service until the car was sold.

Similar thing on a motorbike: Starter started to sound a bit slower but continue to reliably start the bike. Then one day a couple of months later at the shops (see the pattern here) a little bang and all lights went out. The battery still measured 12.3V at rest but when you turned the ignition on it was reading 0 Volts. The bike wouldn't even run after a jumpstart once the jumper cables were disconnected so had to replace the battery there and then. Again, new battery and no more issues ever and eventually sold the bike.

NIMAN

Quick question re: Nissan EV phone app.

The little picture of the Leaf at the top of the screen is white in mine.
My Leaf is white.

Is it white on everyones app, or does it change it to match colour of your car, since it knows your VIN number and hence colour?

(Trivial I know, but I'm curious!).

Starscream25

NIMAN wrote: »

Quick question re: Nissan EV phone app.

The little picture of the Leaf at the top of the screen is white in mine.
My Leaf is white.

Is it white on everyones app, or does it change it to match colour of your car, since it knows your VIN number and hence colour?

(Trivial I know, but I'm curious!).

I have a white car on my nissan app aswell but my leaf is grey.

NIMAN

As I suspected!

DrPhilG

The nerd in me really wishes that you could adjust your car colour both in the app and on the reverse camera image.

creedp

Starscream25 wrote: »

I have a white car on my nissan app aswell but my leaf is grey.

Could anyone explain the story with Nissan app? I have a 2016 Leaf but know nothing about app / carwings etc. I downloaded Nissan EV Connect app but can't register an account. Must this be done separately with Nissan? Also want to download the Leaf spy app - should I get the free 'lite' version or pay the €16 for the 'pro's version? Thanks

Starscream25

creedp wrote: »

Could anyone explain the story with Nissan app? I have a 2016 Leaf but know nothing about app / carwings etc. I downloaded Nissan EV Connect app but can't register an account. Must this be done separately with Nissan? Also want to download the Leaf spy app - should I get the free 'lite' version or pay the €16 for the 'pro's version? Thanks

Your starting point is nissan.co.uk and then Nissan access you tab for the car wings, I haven’t used the leaf spy yet and have only started using car wings 3 days ago so I’m still kind of sketchy.

Can someone explain the acceleration and braking performance? Is it the higher the better or how do the numbers work?

Soarer

creedp wrote: »

Could anyone explain the story with Nissan app? I have a 2016 Leaf but know nothing about app / carwings etc. I downloaded Nissan EV Connect app but can't register an account. Must this be done separately with Nissan? Also want to download the Leaf spy app - should I get the free 'lite' version or pay the €16 for the 'pro's version? Thanks

LeafSpy Lite is perfect if you just want to check your battery percentage, SOH, etc.
Pro lets you change the settings in the car, clear errors that may appear, etc.

I'd wholeheartedly recommend the pro version. Has saved me a fortune already.

AstraMonti

Soarer wrote: »

I'd wholeheartedly recommend the pro version. Has saved me a fortune already.

In what way if I may ask?

Soarer

AstraMonti wrote: »

In what way if I may ask?

If you read the last few pages of the thread, you'll see I had an issue with a weak 12V battery. This was throwing up random errors that was leaving the car undriveable, and telling me to visit the main dealer. On more than one occasion I was able to use LeafSpy to read the error codes, clear them one at a time, and get the car back driving again.

I shudder to think what the dealer would've charged me to "fix" all the "broken" stuff, before clearing the errors.

creedp

creedp wrote: »

Could anyone explain the story with Nissan app? I have a 2016 Leaf but know nothing about app / carwings etc. I downloaded Nissan EV Connect app but can't register an account. Must this be done separately with Nissan? Also want to download the Leaf spy app - should I get the free 'lite' version or pay the €16 for the 'pro's version? Thanks

Just realised that as I have a used car, and I get the telematics collect prompt each time I switch on the car, it probably already has an EV Connect account with the previous owners details in operation. How do I update the account details? Should the dealer have done this or will Nissan UK/IRL sort this out on request?

NIMAN

Same with my 14 I bought from the UK.

I contacted Nissan to tell them I was the new owner, they cancelled out the previous owner from the system and then it allowed me to register.

Can't remember what they asked me for now, or what I needed to register, but definitely if you have the VIN or chassis number that'll be registered to the previous owner.

Soarer

I emailed gb@nissan-services.eu with a copy of the logbook, and they replied with the following....

Dear Mr Soarer,
Thank you for your contacting Nissan Customer Services.
I can confirm that the vehicle is free to register for Carwings.

Please follow the steps below:

1. First, please go to http://cq5.prod.nissan.eu/IE/en/YouPlus.html to register your Carwings account. Use your VIN number during registration.

2. Enter your VIN number, then validate. (Please be advised that the letters "O" or "I" never appear in a VIN number.) Enter details as requested and please remember to click to accept the terms and conditions as required to create a Carwings account.

3. You will now be taken to the CARWINGS OVERVIEW, please click on YES! SUBCRIBE TO CARWINGS.

4 .Please accept the terms and conditions at the very bottom and then VALIDATE.

5. You will now be asked to fill in MY CARWINGS SERVICES details, write a vehicle display name (whatever you want) and add another email, fill in a question and answer and then click CONFIRM.

6. All of your Carwings details will be on the screen, accept the terms and condition and then click VALIDATE.

7. CONGRATULATIONS! Your Carwings account is created. You will receive an e-mail confirming that your Carwings account has been created. You will also receive a second email to inform you when your Carwings account has been activated. Often, after about 30 minutes, you will able to enter the login into the vehicle successfully. However, sometimes, it may be longer than 30 minutes. If you are still not able to do so after 24 hours, please let us know.

8. Please then follow the steps below to complete your on board activation:

Go inside your vehicle:

1. Push Zero Emission button.
2. Touch CARWINGS.
3. Touch CARWINGS settings.
4. Touch security settings.
5. Touch User ID. (Note: This is not your email address but your Carwings login. If you arent sure what it is, you can find out what this is by logging into your Carwings account, clicking Configure link, and then the CARWINGS UPDATE button.)
6. Enter User ID and touch OK. (Note: User ID is case sensitive).
7. Touch Password. (Note: Password is also case sensitive).
8. Enter password and touch OK.
9. Touch Activate Security Settings.
10. Confirm and touch Yes.

Once you have completed your onboard activation successfully:

You can now log into the Nissan Connect EV mobile app successfully using your Carwings User ID (not your e-mail address) and your password. Download the mobile app (available for Android and iPhones) and log into it if you havent already. Please make sure you download the correct app. On the apps log in screen, it will say Welcome to NissanConnect EV (above SIGN IN & CONTROL).

If you are unable to complete your onboard activation successfully:

If you get an error message after clicking Yes, please see if you can update charging stations or not (Zero Emissions button > then Update Stations on the SatNav screen). Also, look for a car icon on the Zero Emission or Carwings settings screen in your vehicle. The car icon should be white with signals coming out from it. If it is grey, then you are an area with no signal and need to drive around until the car icon becomes white with signals coming out.

If it is grey with a strike through it and/or if you cannot update charging stations, then the dealer needs to switch on or reset the TCU (Telematics Control Unit). Until you can update charging stations, you will not be able to use any connected services successfully such as viewing vehicle data (i.e. battery status) or using remote functions (i.e. remote climate control) with the website or mobile app. In order to get a TCU Reset, please contact your local Nissan dealership.

If you are experiencing any problems or have any further requests please feel free to contact us.

Sincerely,

James
Customer Services

Nissan Motor (GB) Limited
Opening Hours Mon-Fri: 08:00 to 20:00, Sat: 08:00 to 14:00
Telephone: 03301231231
E-mail: gb@nissan-services.eu
Web: www.nissan.co.uk


Maybe those instructions could be stickied?

AstraMonti

I went through the same pain to register the car. They initially sent me the UK site to register so I had everything in miles. Then they deleted the UK account and i had to recreate it in the IE one. They need logbook, a proof of purchase (invoice) and a proof of ID.

Soarer

Lost my 3rd bar yesterday. LeafSpy said the SOH was 72.42% with a SOC of 91.1%.

Don't know if that seems normal.

ELM327

Soarer wrote: »

Lost my 3rd bar yesterday. LeafSpy said the SOH was 72.42% with a SOC of 91.1%.

Don't know if that seems normal.

The SOC isn't relevant to the bar loss (aside from slight variations based on nominal voltage).

First bar lost at 85%, second would be lost at 78.5%, third should be lost at 72%, as per the nissan guidance that the first bar is 15% and the next are 6.5%.
So to me that seems in the realms of normality

How is the range with 72% SOH? I'd say it would be in the 80-90km max?

KCross

Soarer wrote: »

Lost my 3rd bar yesterday. LeafSpy said the SOH was 72.42% with a SOC of 91.1%.

Don't know if that seems normal.

Thats spot on.

1st bar - 15%
Subsequent bars are 6.25% each

So, 72.5% is where you lose the 3rd bar.

Soarer

ELM327 wrote: »

How is the range with 72% SOH? I'd say it would be in the 80-90km max?

I actually don't know if I'm honest, but I'd say you're not too far off the mark there.
I don't really look at the GOM anymore as it's ridiculously inaccurate. I use LeafSpy all the time now for the percentage.

from_atozinc

Hi

Contemplating buying a Nissan leaf
I think around 2013 there was a newer one introduced, longer range and quicker charging.

Is it worth it to pay that bit more and get the newer type 2013 model ? or is it much of a muchness

KCross

It was in mid 2013 that Sunderland starting producing Leafs (aka Gen 1.5) and you can tell by the presence of an Eco button on the steering wheel and a foot-brake instead of an electronic handbrake(on the center console).

There are a few other tell-tale signs like interior color generally being dark in the Gen 1.5 but the Eco button on the steering wheel is the best one.

The Gen 1.5 has a heat pump which results in you using less power to heat the cabin and so you get more range as a result.

The battery is also considered better from a degradation point of view.


All in all, if you have the budget buy a Gen 1.5.

grogi

from_atozinc wrote: »

I think around 2013 there was a newer one introduced, longer range and quicker charging.

Is it worth it to pay that bit more and get the newer type 2013 model ?

There were specimen with 30 kWh battery and 6.6 kW AC charger. But they demand additional premium over base-line 24 kWh/3.3 kW one.

But even if you don't need one with 30 kWh battery, it is worth getting the Mk1.5 for the reasons stated by @KCross.

from_atozinc

KCross wrote: »

It was in mid 2013 that Sunderland starting producing Leafs (aka Gen 1.5) and you can tell by the presence of an Eco button on the steering wheel and a foot-brake instead of an electronic handbrake(on the center console).

There are a few other tell-tale signs like interior color generally being dark in the Gen 1.5 but the Eco button on the steering wheel is the best one.

The Gen 1.5 has a heat pump which results in you using less power to heat the cabin and so you get more range as a result.

The battery is also considered better from a degradation point of view.


All in all, if you have the budget buy a Gen 1.5.

Thank you, great reply.
so id need to be looking at a 132 model.
is the foot brake more reliable than the electronic brake or what was the thinking here?

KCross

from_atozinc wrote: »

Thank you, great reply.
so id need to be looking at a 132 model.
is the foot brake more reliable than the electronic brake or what was the thinking here?

Yes, 132 or later but you could also see some 132's as Gen 1.... just look for that Eco button!

The electronic hand brake has been known to give trouble in Gen 1 cars and costs alot to fix out of warranty. They have reintroduced it for the new 40kWh Leaf though!

from_atozinc

KCross wrote: »

Yes, 132 or later but you could also see some 132's as Gen 1.... just look for that Eco button!

The electronic hand brake has been known to give trouble in Gen 1 cars and costs alot to fix out of warranty. They have reintroduced it for the new 40kWh Leaf though!

Thanks, I know it depends on the driving, but ball park, what kind of range could you expect from a gen 1.5 in the real world. 80 miles ?

KCross

from_atozinc wrote: »

Thanks, I know it depends on the driving, but ball park, what kind of range could you expect from a gen 1.5 in the real world. 80 miles ?

Excluding motorway speeds, 100-120km