Nissan Leaf

cgc5483

Looking for some help to set-up Nissan Connect

Recently purchased a 2015 Leaf. Have registered for Nissan Connect and downloaded the App. Can't log in on the App on my phone as it keeps telling me my User ID/ Password is invalid even though I'm entering them correctly. I logged in from Webpage successful and added my VIN. This add the car to My Garage but I can't do anything else and the message on screen is: "You're currently not subscribed to any packages. Check our available subscriptions below to get started."

The issue then is that there is no link to available subscription on the menus below. Anyone any ideas? If the car was still registered on the previous owner would I have been able to register the VIN on my account. I've tried contacting Nissan but haven't had a reply and that's been 1 week ago.

KAGY

cgc5483 wrote: »

Looking for some help to set-up Nissan Connect

Recently purchased a 2015 Leaf. Have registered for Nissan Connect and downloaded the App. Can't log in on the App on my phone as it keeps telling me my User ID/ Password is invalid even though I'm entering them correctly. I logged in from Webpage successful and added my VIN. This add the car to My Garage but I can't do anything else and the message on screen is: "You're currently not subscribed to any packages. Check our available subscriptions below to get started."

The issue then is that there is no link to available subscription on the menus below. Anyone any ideas? If the car was still registered on the previous owner would I have been able to register the VIN on my account. I've tried contacting Nissan but haven't had a reply and that's been 1 week ago.

I had troubles too, unfortunately I can't remember what I did to sort out. I know there was about 3 different services; Nissan connect, you+, car wings etc.
This is the link I bookmarked that works for me now, try the register link on that https://cq5.prod.nissan.eu/IE/en/YouPlus.html

cgc5483

KAGY wrote: »

I had troubles too, unfortunately I can't remember what I did to sort out. I know there was about 3 different services; Nissan connect, you+, car wings etc.
This is the link I bookmarked that works for me now, try the register link on that https://cq5.prod.nissan.eu/IE/en/YouPlus.html

Thanks. I tried to register on that link. Takes the VIN and then tells me that they already have created my YOU+NISSAN account and emailed me the details. Only problem is that I never inputted an email address

slave1

cgc5483 wrote: »

Thanks. I tried to register on that link. Takes the VIN and then tells me that they already have created my YOU+NISSAN account and emailed me the details. Only problem is that I never inputted an email address

Sounds like it's still registered to the previous owner, you will need it to be un-registered by them before you can log on

Gumbo

cgc5483 wrote: »

Thanks. I tried to register on that link. Takes the VIN and then tells me that they already have created my YOU+NISSAN account and emailed me the details. Only problem is that I never inputted an email address

Possibly still registered to the previous owner.
You need him to log in and remove the car from his account.

Alternatively, you can contact Nissan Connect in the UK, tell them you bought the car, they'll tell you email over copies of ID and the VLC etc and they'll add the car to your account.

KAGY

cgc5483 wrote: »

Thanks. I tried to register on that link. Takes the VIN and then tells me that they already have created my YOU+NISSAN account and emailed me the details. Only problem is that I never inputted an email address

Copy of a message I got from Nissan about the same:

Thank you for contacting Nissan Ireland.

Unfortunately you will have to contact the Nissan Customer Service Helpdesk directly at gb@nissan-services.eu requesting them to unregister your vehicle from the current NissanConnect Account, as you recently purchased the vehicle and as the new owner would like to register it on your account.

In order for them to remove the previous owner’s account on your vehicle, they require you to send them a scanned copy of your Vehicle Licencing Certificate VLC (log book), along with a copy of your photograph ID.

Once they receive the proof of ownership you will be able to fully register for New Nissan Connect.

If you have any further queries or questions please feel free to contact us.

Yours Sincerely,
Nissan Ireland Sales Team

Stealthirl

This got me sorted

Zenith74 wrote: »

I know this is an old thread, but it's one of the first Google results for this issue. I had the issue with the EV Connect app not allowing me to login with a newly imported Leaf from the UK, I contact Nissan at the email address above, they were super helpful and provided the following instructions which worked first time, the EV Connect app is now working for me!

1. First go to http://cq5.prod.nissan.eu/IE/en/YouPlus.html Register Now:
2. Enter your VIN number>validate> and then you will be taken to the next page enter details into the form; please remember to click the terms and conditions.
3. You will now be taken to the CARWINGS OVERVIEW, please click on YES! SUBCRIBE TO CARWINGS
4. Please accept the terms and conditions at the very bottom>VALIDATE
5. You will now be asked to fill in MY CARWINGS SERVICES details, create a vehicle display name and add another email, fill in a question and answer > click CONFIRM
6. All your Carwings details will be on the screen, accept the terms and condition>Click VALIDATE
7. CONGRATULATIONS! Message will appear, you are now half way there. You will receive 2 emails; one is a confirmation of registration and the other is the activation of your Carwings which usually takes up to between 2-24hours. If you don’t get anything after 24 hours please contact customer services.

After you receive the second email please go to your vehicle and do the following:

Steps:
Push Zero Emission button.
Touch CARWINGS.
Touch security settings.
Touch Activate CARWINGS.
Touch User ID. Note: User ID and password are case sensitive.
Enter User ID and touch OK.
Touch Password.
Enter password and touch OK.
Touch Activate Security Settings.
Confirm and touch Yes.

Please make sure that once you have pressed the Zero Emission button a white car symbol shows up on the top right of your head unit. If the Car symbol is grey this means that you are in a location with no signal.

In addition to this, if the car logo is grey with a line through it or what appears to be an axe, this means you will need to contact your local dealer and have your TCU head unit reset.

rolion

On the L24,when you setup climate timer to "heat" in the morning at preset / departure time, does it work of the battery or the main AC ?
Thanks

Gumbo

rolion wrote: »

On the L24,when you setup climate timer to "heat" in the morning at preset / departure time, does it work of the battery or the main AC ?
Thanks

Depends if its plugged in or not.

KCross

rolion wrote: »

On the L24,when you setup climate timer to "heat" in the morning at preset / departure time, does it work of the battery or the main AC ?
Thanks

If plugged in, the timer will activate and use the traction battery to heat the car but the car will then top up the battery to ensure it stays at 99/100%.

If the car isnt plugged in the timer wont fire.

The remote activation of the heating via the app uses the traction battery but only runs for 15mins max.

Ush1

KCross wrote: »

If plugged in, the timer will activate and use the traction battery to heat the car but the car will then top up the battery to ensure it stays at 99/100%.

If the car isnt plugged in the timer wont fire.

The remote activation of the heating via the app uses the traction battery but only runs for 15mins max.

Why is that? I thought that's what the option was for where you can select for it not to come on if the battery is lower than 15%.

KCross

Ush1 wrote: »

Why is that? I thought that's what the option was for where you can select for it not to come on if the battery is lower than 15%.

If you have the timer set and go on a 2 week holiday you would come back to a dead car.... hence not plugged in, timer doesnt fire. Remote activation via the app still works though.

The 15% and 80% setting you refer to is the priority setting which is when charge timer and climate control timer overlap... you then have the option of telling the car which timer gets priority... so, if you need 70% battery to get to your destination you want to ensure the car is charged enough for your departure time so you give charging priority and set it to 80%... when the car gets to 80% the climate control then takes some of the available power to heat the car.

The lower 15% setting is not to stop the car going below 15%... its to ensure the car gets up to 15% before the climate control kicks in. Its only relevant if the two timers overlap. Its better if you get charging to finish before climate control starts, imo, otherwise you could have less than 100% charge rate when you hop in... if you dont need 100% thats fine.

rolion

KCross wrote: »

If you have the timer set and go on a 2 week holiday you would come back to a dead car.... hence not plugged in, timer doesnt fire. Remote activation via the app still works though.

The 15% and 80% setting you refer to is the priority setting which is when charge timer and climate control timer overlap... you then have the option of telling the car which timer gets priority... so, if you need 70% battery to get to your destination you want to ensure the car is charged enough for your departure time so you give charging priority and set it to 80%... when the car gets to 80% the climate control then takes some of the available power to heat the car.

The lower 15% setting is not to stop the car going below 15%... its to ensure the car gets up to 15% before the climate control kicks in. Its only relevant if the two timers overlap. Its better if you get charging to finish before climate control starts, imo, otherwise you could have less than 100% charge rate when you hop in... if you dont need 100% thats fine.

Thanks Mr K.

That explains the curve and spikes in the below screenshot.
Tought i am seeing ghosts or the car is behaving badly...

Charging starts at 2am to keep the battery warm over nigth and some sort of preheat.
Then, the climate timer starts at 6:30am as "departure time" and then battery charges again to 99%.
Very clever...

TGIF

I don't have specs for the new leaf but the old leaf pre heat only came on at -17 Deg c and off at -10 so it just exists to prevent battery damage nothing else.

So in 99% of Irish Winters the Leaf battery heater will never turn on.

NIMAN

App working again for everyone?

Mine seems to be up and running fine.

Batesy

Nope, still down for me anyway.

I can preheat via the app but the charge status just keeps spinning as if refreshing but never gets the charge status.

The Alexa Skill is working well for me when at home though I'd like a fully functioning app when out and about.

slicedpanman

NIMAN wrote: »

App working again for everyone?

Mine seems to be up and running fine.

Yeah, finally working again for us

SteM

The Android app is up and running for me.

liamog

Aparrently UK 2014 Nissan Leaf prices are the same today as they were 18 months ago.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-UeGrrVc6w

Gumbo

liamog wrote: »

Aparrently UK 2014 Nissan Leaf prices are the same today as they were 18 months ago.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-UeGrrVc6w

I bought my 2014 Leaf in the UK in Feb 2017 9980e all in OTR here.
I sold it the weekend for 11k.

I think the sweet spot for EV price growth is in the low to mid price range. New cars wont keep their value, but they will level out after a few years.

slave1

I agree, I got my 6 month old L30 two years ago this month for just shy of €16k to the door but we won’t be selling as it will be our town runaround as long as it has any life in it, we only need 20-30kms a day so it will be many years before it can’t to that

unkel

The Leaf 24kWh is a very interesting case. Initial depreciation was huge, mainly because of low demand in the market for (second hand) EVs, and a lot of conceptions at the time about battery degradation and battery life span

Bringing the Leaf to its lowest values about 2 years ago, when you could pick up an early Leaf (2012 - 5 years old) for €4-€5k and an improved battery Leaf (2014 - 3 years old for €9k-10k)

The market is completely different now, much more demand and above conceptions turned out to be mostly misconceptions. The 5 year old Leaf is now 7 years old and has gone up in value to about €7k and the 3 year old Leaf is now 5 years old and worth €10k-€11k

Those who bought L24s 2 years ago have enjoyed negative depreciation - something quite rare with modern cars - fair play lads

That said, there are also plenty of people out there who bought a €30k Leaf and sold it 2 years later for €10k...

quenching

NIMAN wrote: »

App working again for everyone?

Mine seems to be up and running fine.

Still not working for me.

Soarer

Posted this in the other Leaf thread, but we may as well try keep as much L24/L30 info in this one.

Have 9 bars on my 2011 Leaf.
Passed the 180k km mark the other day.
SOH on LeafSpy is saying 67.6%.
After giving her a full charge, LeafSpy says the SOC is 94.5%.

Using LeafSpy to read SOC (as opposed to the GOM), I can comfortably get 60km between charges. If I'm a bit careful, I can get 70km.

So anyone wondering/worried about bars/range, hopefully the above will help answer some questions.

Soarer

Right lads.

My yoke is acting a bit silly for the last day or two.
Every so often she gives me an I-key error, and I can’t turn on the ignition. Strangely though, if I leave her alone for an hour or so, the error remains, but the ignition turns on allowing me to use LeafSpy to clear the errors.
The errors it gave were...
B2609 0008 BCM
B2612 0008 BCM
B26EF 0008 BCM
B210A 0008 IPDM E/ R

The BCM ones seem to be the issue as, as soon as I clear the BCM DTC, the display changes and I can start the car.
Strangely, when I turn off the car with the lights on (I always drive with my headlights on) and get the error, the lights stay off when I clear the code until I turn them off and on again.
I thought it might be the fob/battery, but I changed both and no joy.
It obviously could be the 12V, but when jump leads and battery booster were attached, they didn’t do anything.

Any ideas?

deadduck

quenching wrote: »

Still not working for me.

My preferred app, EVA, hasn’t worked since around Christmas, but the Nissan app is (finally) back working the last few days

quenching

deadduck wrote: »

My preferred app, EVA, hasn’t worked since around Christmas, but the Nissan app is (finally) back working the last few days

And back working for me today, after 2 months!

ifaour

Need experts opinion:
I'm still looking for a weekend run around car. I initially started with a 10-12K budget then moved to a sub-4K <1.4 petrol (e.g. 2008 1.4 Octavia .. etc) based on the sound advise here.

To reiterate few points:
- I will likely do 5k-7k KM annually, not more
- will be used for weekend stuff (taking our 1yr old to swimming class, tesco that is 10min away .. etc) and some occasional (2-3 times a year) roadtrips (Dublin->Galway .. etc)
- would need some boot space for a stroller
- I'm NOT on a hurry to buy tbh since I have a gocar around the corner that is cheaper than taking a taxi but still costing me around 180EUR per month for our weekly weekend tasks
- I have NO "no-claim bonus" since I'm a new driver in Ireland (over 30+ but just got my full driving license in OCT) - so insurance is high (2.5-3.5K EUR on 10 years old cars)

After looking for a 10 years old cars (08 passats, octavia, mercedes b-class), it seems you can find something around 2500-4000 but for whatever reason I feel I will be putting some money on service (e.g. engine .. etc).

*** QUESTIONS SECTION ***
- for the low mileage mentioned above, is a 2nd hand leaf worth it?
- I guess for a city runaround, even the 1st gen 2011 24KWh (even with 9-10 bars) might do, right?
- but if I want to future proof my purchase then a 2nd half 2013 would be a safer option and likely hold it's value a bit more in the next couple of years, thoughts?
- it seems the UK market is a better place to look, but I cannot travel to UK, so what are my options?


---

for my use case, I've done some calculations and really it seems that for such low usage a 2.5K-3K car would do just fine with the probability of giving me some headache vs an EV (5K-10K EUR) that might end up with same overall cost if you factor (purchase, insurance, tax, service, fuel/electricity and finally resale if I choose to) ... maybe I would lose 500-1000EUR more if I go for an EV which ... I'm OK with if it will give me the piece of mind that I'm having my kid in a safe car without much maintenance hassle.

Should I keep this here or move it to it's own thread? thanks in advance

P.S. I have an A rated house with solar panels fitted.

----

UPDATE #1:
actually, I was chatting with a neighbor of mine, it seems I won't be eligible for the charger grant since technically my parking is public (see picture attached)
I guess that's almost a deal breaker?

Gumbo

Belltree?

No you won’t get the grant on that style house as the cable would have to pass the public path.

Soarer

Soarer wrote: »

Right lads.

My yoke is acting a bit silly for the last day or two.
Every so often she gives me an I-key error, and I can’t turn on the ignition. Strangely though, if I leave her alone for an hour or so, the error remains, but the ignition turns on allowing me to use LeafSpy to clear the errors.
The errors it gave were...
B2609 0008 BCM
B2612 0008 BCM
B26EF 0008 BCM
B210A 0008 IPDM E/ R

The BCM ones seem to be the issue as, as soon as I clear the BCM DTC, the display changes and I can start the car.
Strangely, when I turn off the car with the lights on (I always drive with my headlights on) and get the error, the lights stay off when I clear the code until I turn them off and on again.
I thought it might be the fob/battery, but I changed both and no joy.
It obviously could be the 12V, but when jump leads and battery booster were attached, they didn’t do anything.

Any ideas?

Following up on this, I'm back to thinking it's either the 12V, or whatever the car uses to charge the 12V.

Turned the car off yesterday evening, and the i-key error came up. Ignition wouldn't turn on. Plugged her in, and left her charge for the night.
Went out this morning, and the ignition turned on. Same errors as above on LeafSpy.
However, the 12V was reading ~11.5V. When I pressed the brake pedal, it dropped to ~11.3V (from memory).
Cleared the errors, started the car, and the voltage immediately jumped up to ~14.5V.

So the car obviously charges the battery when it's turned on.
And it obviously puts a small bit of charge into the 12V between the time the i-key appears (and the ignition won't turn on) to an hour later when the ignition does turn on.

My 12V battery was bought last April, and had a good slow charging session back in November (thanks again KCross). And yet I'm back to this.
So the fact she charges when running, and she must be doing some sort of charging between error and restart, points to a bad 12V?

What say ye? And what sort of battery would ye recommend?

Edit: What about something like this from Halford's? Way more than I'd normally spend on a battery, but if it gives me trouble free motoring for the length of the 5 year guarantee, it'd be worth every penny.