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1-5Nm 1/4 Torque Wrench

  • 07-08-2015 12:56pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,216 ✭✭✭


    Well my dads been looking at one of these for a while so was gonna pick one up as a thank you for all the parts/time hes given me over the past year fixing up my CB!

    We have a 3/8 one already which I think starts from 25Nm. Teng do another ratchet which ranges from 5Nm-25NM so this seems like the better option to me. The only advantage I can see of the smaller "screwdriver" ratchet is that it might be a bit easier to reach tight places but you could more than likely get in at the same place with a few extensions and maybe a knuckle or something.

    So my question is, is there much use for such a small range (1-5Nm) on a bike ? Would I be better off picking up the 1/4 rachet (5-25Nm) instead ?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,025 ✭✭✭Wossack


    5-25Nm is definitely more use imo, but must be a reason why your dad is looking at the 1-5?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,216 ✭✭✭Ayrtonf7


    Wossack wrote: »
    5-25Nm is definitely more use imo, but must be a reason why your dad is looking at the 1-5?

    Honestly I'm not sure. He just mentioned it to me in passing and he hasn't said anything more about it since. Dont really want to ask because Id like it to be a surprise. I'm assuming its because its smaller (maybe he didn't know the limited torque range) ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,025 ✭✭✭Wossack


    have a look through your service manual, and see what you reckon you'd likely use it for

    a brief look though the 05 zx6 one I have on my phone, I see stuff like hose clamp bolts being 2Nm, brake light switch screws being 1.5 etc - stuff you kinda know not to overtighten, or would feel a bit daft using a torque wrench on :p things into plastic etc

    and on the other hand, you've got majority of engine stuff in the 10-30Nm range (camshaft, crankcase etc) - what I'd definitely have a t-wrench at hand for

    so very much depends! tis definitely a swanky tool though


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 583 ✭✭✭HardenendMan


    Honestly, only NASA would need a 1-5Nm torque wrench!

    Finger tight does it. Watch for cross threading on such "machine" screws. Very fine threads.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    The small torque wrenches are designed for the electronics industry not motorcycles.
    You don't need one that low range, a better size would be a 1/2" that does the wheel nuts of cars and axle/swingarm of bikes, those big nuts are the ones you need to check not the ones that only hold on a switchblock.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,648 ✭✭✭rock22


    Ayrtonf7 wrote: »
    Well my dads been looking at one of these for a while ...
    We have a 3/8 one already which I think starts from 25Nm.

    So my question is, is there much use for such a small range (1-5Nm) on a bike ? Would I be better off picking up the 1/4 rachet (5-25Nm) instead ?

    I am not too clear exactly what your father indicated. If he wanted that exact wrench you linked to then I suggest buying exactly that.
    If he indicated that he needed a 1-5Nm range he may prefer a standard type wrench.
    Finally , if he said he wanted a small 1/4" wrench, I would be inclined to go for a more useful range. perhaps 5-25Nm.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,784 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    Both is your answer - learned the hard way....Some M6 on bikes are barely 5Nm - rocker covers, oil pump etc.

    A wrench that overlaps the 5 is best. Wrenches are least accurate at extremes of their capacity. ...

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,216 ✭✭✭Ayrtonf7


    galwaytt wrote: »
    Wrenches are least accurate at extremes of their capacity. ...

    Thats very good to know thank you!

    I managed to find a 5-25nm 1/4" ratchet in a shop just around the corner from me for €75 so may pick that up this week.

    Just wondering whats the difference between a certified one and and un-certified ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,907 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    Ayrtonf7 wrote: »
    Just wondering whats the difference between a certified one and and un-certified ?
    Certified has a certificate that should show the date it was tested/calibrated on, uncertified is what the certified one becomes after the cert expires.
    You aren't working to a standard like in Aeronautic or Pharma so you don't need a certified one.


  • Registered Users Posts: 989 ✭✭✭rat_race


    I have three torque wrenches, smallest starting at 8Nm.

    No idea why anyone would want a 1-5Nm torque for a motor vehicle. Just fighter tight + some is grand for these bolts.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,784 ✭✭✭✭galwaytt


    rat_race wrote: »
    I have three torque wrenches, smallest starting at 8Nm.

    No idea why anyone would want a 1-5Nm torque for a motor vehicle. Just fighter tight + some is grand for these bolts.

    Motorbikes are not cars, and many parts on a bike are an alloy/Mazak - which has lower pull out strength on threads than the aluminium alloys you'd see on cars.

    Rocker covers on a GSX are 5Nm iirc. (open to correction, it's been a while)....once you've stripped and had to helicoil one, you find the right torque wrench is a cheaper 'fix'.........

    Ode To The Motorist

    “And my existence, while grotesque and incomprehensible to you, generates funds to the exchequer. You don't want to acknowledge that as truth because, deep down in places you don't talk about at the Green Party, you want me on that road, you need me on that road. We use words like freedom, enjoyment, sport and community. We use these words as the backbone of a life spent instilling those values in our families and loved ones. You use them as a punch line. I have neither the time nor the inclination to explain myself to a man who rises and sleeps under the tax revenue and the very freedom to spend it that I provide, and then questions the manner in which I provide it. I would rather you just said "thank you" and went on your way. Otherwise I suggest you pick up a bus pass and get the ********* ********* off the road” 



  • Registered Users Posts: 989 ✭✭✭rat_race


    Fair enough.

    For engine work, I'd go out of my way to make sure I'd use a torque wrench. Never had anything near 5Nm in the few I've dabbled with though. Think the minimum I've seen was 12Nm on any bolts inside the engine...


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