For the love of God someone help me

session savage

Hi folks. I'm trying to do some work to my dragstar and want to remove the swingarm but the bolt holding the shock in place is not budging. I've been spraying WD40 every night on it for the last week and I can't move it. If you look at the pics you can see what looks like the type of nut you would get on a grinder. Tried moving it but that's seized too. I can't get in to persuade it with a hammer because the frame is in the way. What do ye think. Any ideas?

http://s909.photobucket.com/user/laoch_fearr/slideshow/Mobile%20Uploads

Super hoop

Have you tried penatrating oil as opposed to wd40. Alternatively you could try heating the nut before trying to remove it

Del2005

Try a heat gun, wouldn't risk a blow torch as it looks like there's bits around it that wouldn't like that much heat.
What happened when you got it so far out? Usually they are stuck in and once you get them moving they keep going.

two wheels good

Have you unbolted the top of the shock? Swivel the shock while holding bolt head?
Removing s-arm and shock in one piece might help. Might be easier on a bench. Depends if you have a bench vice available.

A long chisel or punch to reach the end of the bolt? A new bolt won't be expensive - and it should be high tensile.

WD40 - Yeah, get something better.
And plenty of heat - without melting the bushes!

CJhaughey

Can you remove the top bolt and leave the shock on the swinger and remove the whole lot in one piece?
Then when you have it out you can stick it in a vice and batter/heat/grind it out.
This situation leads to snapped shocks if not remedied.

Mark74

i think theres some confusion..

is this right??..
- the nut is loose, just still sitting on the bolt.
- the grinder type nut you mention is further in by the frame, with 3 circular indents.
- its the long bolt wont push through the hole.

if thats correct..."that grinder type nut"...is not a nut...thats an integral part of the frame.
& i think.....on those..that bolt may be threaded in...so you should be unthreading from the other side.

Max Headroom

Judging by the pic that bolt is welded in with rust...a blow torch will probably just get absorbed by the bushes and melt...you really need to get some sort of bar onto it and drive it out ..the bolt will need replacing anyways..Leave the nut in place undil it hits the frame otherwise you'll just spread the bolt bigger than the hole..

As above..did you try turning the bolt head..??

session savage

Thanks for the replies lads. Mark 74 had is explained right. I just have a but on the bolt to stop the bolt splaying as I beat the **** out if it. I think, as a couple of ye have suggested, the only option is remove everything with the shock attached and persuade it with a bigger hammer. Was just hoping there was a faster way. I'll let ye know.
Thanks again.

serious3

that bit with the three holes punched in is not a nut of any description, its welded to the frame to allow a suitable amount of thread, you need to undo the bolt head from the other side.

session savage

I put the heat gun to it and sprayed penetrating oil on it. Finally got it rotating. Still not budging out. Reckon I'll need someone beating it while I twist it. At least it's progress.

Mark74

Great..if its twisting then it will get there. Very suprised its doesnt need to be unthreaded..still almost suspicous its not a bodged thread that someone maybe hammered a replacement bolt through.. But ya as you say a bit of tapping while twisting...(.anticlockwise just in case..!) will get it now. Good luck with it.

Max Headroom

If you cant swing a hammer at it, use/borrow a sds drill , use the pointy chisel....;)

CJhaughey

I've seen Swingarm bolts seized solid inside the bushings, they will turn but won't move in or out.
If its a major operation and risks damaging other stuff, borrow a sawzall and use a couple of metal blades to cut the bolt where the rubber oil seals are on the inside of the swingarm mount.
It can save a lot of heartache in the long run.
You'll more than likely have to replace the bolt anyway so order the bolt/bushes and seals now and they will be ready for when you get it out.
ACF the hell out of the bolt and bushes when you refit it, these are supposed to be removed and greased every 10k and if you don't then you get the same issue of corrosion again.
Pack with waterproof grease as well.
I wonder could you drill a hole in the shock eye and fit a grease nipple? It might make a big difference next time.

The Sidewards Man

Mark74 wrote: »

Great..if its twisting then it will get there. Very suprised its doesnt need to be unthreaded..still almost suspicous its not a bodged thread that someone maybe hammered a replacement bolt through.. But ya as you say a bit of tapping while twisting...(.anticlockwise just in case..!) will get it now. Good luck with it.

Oh lol you havent a clue, it will twist till the cows come home.

Max Headroom

The Sidewards Man wrote: »

Oh lol you havent a clue, it will twist till the cows come home.

Helpful advice there all right....if youre going to post once only, at least make it a good one...:rolleyes:.

Wossack

Shock is unloaded, right?

session savage

So I pulled the whole lot out. And I still can't get it to budge. Its rotating freely, the bushings and all are turning with it.
I can move the shock sideways no bother. it just won't come out even though I can now hit it directly.
As cjhaughy said I'll probably have to cut it but there's not much room as you can see in the pic. (That's just a screw driver pointing in)

Max Headroom

You'll need to be able to put the lot against something solid..if you have a mate and a piece of pipe that will fit over the bolt head and against a wall or the ground and beat it like Michael Jackson...i had to do that with a stubborn engine bolt...:)

CJhaughey

I wouldn't waste time and possibly blood beating on that seized bolt.
A power hacksaw will eat through that rubber seal and bolt collar and be done with the job in no time.
Too much beating runs the risk of breaking or bending the shock mount and stressing it in directions it was never meant to move.
I bet you could stick that in a 10t press and it would hardly move.
Its a bad design, it really needs a kind of deflector to stop all the crud being thrown onto it.
MX bikes have them to stop the shocks being blasted by crap, maybe you could rig up something similar with a piece of inner tube?

listermint

CJhaughey wrote: »

I wouldn't waste time and possibly blood beating on that seized bolt.
A power hacksaw will eat through that rubber seal and bolt collar and be done with the job in no time.
Too much beating runs the risk of breaking or bending the shock mount and stressing it in directions it was never meant to move.
I bet you could stick that in a 10t press and it would hardly move.
Its a bad design, it really needs a kind of deflector to stop all the crud being thrown onto it.
MX bikes have them to stop the shocks being blasted by crap, maybe you could rig up something similar with a piece of inner tube?

Wouldnt Packing them with a load of heavy grease to the very same job with little effort

CJhaughey

listermint wrote: »

Wouldnt Packing them with a load of heavy grease to the very same job with little effort

Yes, heavy waterproof grease does help, but any suspension component that is in the line of fire from the rear wheel will suffer

Deauvilles are the same and a small plastic guard in front of the shock or a piece of innertube cable tied around the top of the shock and open at the bottom makes a big difference.
Ideally they would have a grease nipple installed on the shock eye and you'd just pump some fresh grease in every so often.
But in reality they are probably assembled dry in the factory, most of them go to the US where they are ridden in dry summer conditions and never have the kind of abuse they get here.

Max Headroom

CJhaughey wrote: »

I wouldn't waste time and possibly blood beating on that seized bolt.
A power hacksaw will eat through that rubber seal and bolt collar and be done with the job in no time.
Too much beating runs the risk of breaking or bending the shock mount and stressing it in directions it was never meant to move.
I bet you could stick that in a 10t press and it would hardly move.
Its a bad design, it really needs a kind of deflector to stop all the crud being thrown onto it.
MX bikes have them to stop the shocks being blasted by crap, maybe you could rig up something similar with a piece of inner tube?

You'd be doing well to get a hacksaw in there without catching the framework...my suggestion works but you need to strike it against something solid..;)

session savage

Incase anyone faces the same problem, I finally got it out. WD40 fast release penetration oil, a pointy bolster, a 6lb lump hammer and a few curses and out she came

listermint

Too much fannying around at the start

session savage

listermint wrote: »

Too much fannying around at the start

Exactly. Next time it's straight for the lump hammer

Max Headroom

session savage wrote: »

Exactly. Next time it's straight for the lump hammer

Never hurts to ask for advise.....remember..

"there are no stupid questions, just stupid people!.............:)

Skill Magill

The Persuader